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498K and Last Chance tool use

Buckgnarly

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First chance to use both. They worked great as a team on this 2012 Durango front wheel bearing. I had done the other side about a year ago, took TONS of heat and the CP717 to pound that one out, this side was MUCH easier with the Astro tools.
Beat it with the 498k to start, then ran the last chance on (one bolt) to preload it, next round woth Thor it spun. Easyish Peasy.
The 498K hits WAY slower, but I like it because it's easier to control. The thing is a Hoss, love it!
 

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2ndGearRubber

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Nice.

The 498k is way slower, to the point I thought it had an issue initially. But man does it punch. I peeled out a 2012 subaru rear wheel bearing and backing plate last week with mine, maybe 3 seconds of hammering and it was moving? LMAO I have yet to have success with the last-chance tools, but my go to is just a hub shocker or 498 hammer.

I will agree the slower speed makes it easier to control. I love my air hammers. Vote from my coworkers is that they hate the snap-on 3050 more than the 498k. I think the blows per minute is the issue. Not sure how they feel about the OG 498 compared to the 3050. Damn thing needs a muffler.
 
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Buckgnarly

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Nice.

The 498k is way slower, to the point I thought it had an issue initially. But man does it punch. I peeled out a 2012 subaru rear wheel bearing and backing plate last week with mine, maybe 3 seconds of hammering and it was moving? LMAO I have yet to have success with the last-chance tools, but my go to is just a hub shocker or 498 hammer.

I will agree the slower speed makes it easier to control. I love my air hammers. Vote from my coworkers is that they hate the snap-on 3050 more than the 498k. I think the blows per minute is the issue. Not sure how they feel about the OG 498 compared to the 3050. Damn thing needs a muffler.

I had the same first thought about being defective, but the damage it did to the hub ears and the bit itself made me realize it was in fact hitting hard.
I've had mixed luck with the Hub Shocker, it may break it free but the vertical movement is totally opposite of what you need, which is pulling. Lisle 40100 is my next purchase, seems a beefier version of the Astro Last Chance.
2 rear 2015 Crosstrek hubs are still on the radar, those are gonna be FUN!
 

Coyote-M

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I'd really love try one of these side by side with the industrial rivet guns I've been using. Astro claims the 498K has internal optimizations that make it stronger than some guns with longer barrels. I'd like to see if that's true.

If you haven't already, stock up on Ajax and Mayhew Pro chisels and bits. They are much stronger than the cheaper 498 bits on the market. They don't mushroom out nearly at all.
 

2ndGearRubber

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I had the same first thought about being defective, but the damage it did to the hub ears and the bit itself made me realize it was in fact hitting hard.
I've had mixed luck with the Hub Shocker, it may break it free but the vertical movement is totally opposite of what you need, which is pulling. Lisle 40100 is my next purchase, seems a beefier version of the Astro Last Chance.
2 rear 2015 Crosstrek hubs are still on the radar, those are gonna be FUN!

Thank you for posting the Lisle tool, I will look into one of those.


At the risk of telling you something you already know - ignore the wheel bearing on the crosstreks, get the backing plate off. Remove the brake caliper and rotor, at the top of the backing plate by where the pivot for the brake shoes is you'll find an extra beefy part of the plate, like 10mm thick of steel. Wedge a tapered air hammer bit between that and the knuckle, and use the air hammer to drive it between, prying them apart. When the knuckle is free, beat the hub out with a sledge. Yes, annoying, but you don't need to remove any parking brake components. When it finally pops out it'll swing by the parking brake cable, then you can hammer it out.
 
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Buckgnarly

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I'd really love try one of these side by side with the industrial rivet guns I've been using. Astro claims the 498K has internal optimizations that make it stronger than some guns with longer barrels. I'd like to see if that's true.

If you haven't already, stock up on Ajax and Mayhew Pro chisels and bits. They are much stronger than the cheaper 498 bits on the market. They don't mushroom out nearly at all.
I take my .498 bits and guns serisouly....this is the bit drawer, all Ajax and Mayhew.
 

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Buckgnarly

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Thank you for posting the Lisle tool, I will look into one of those.


At the risk of telling you something you already know - ignore the wheel bearing on the crosstreks, get the backing plate off. Remove the brake caliper and rotor, at the top of the backing plate by where the pivot for the brake shoes is you'll find an extra beefy part of the plate, like 10mm thick of steel. Wedge a tapered air hammer bit between that and the knuckle, and use the air hammer to drive it between, prying them apart. When the knuckle is free, beat the hub out with a sledge. Yes, annoying, but you don't need to remove any parking brake components. When it finally pops out it'll swing by the parking brake cable, then you can hammer it out.

This is my first Crosstrek rears, so any reason to NOT mess with parking brake **** is welcomed!
 
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Buckgnarly

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Latest Thor damage....2012 Forestor rear bearing. We would up bending a bolt from the Last Chance kit, but Thor once again did not let us down.
I even let a kid try it after explaining the technique......got it off in about 5 min.

Gotta check this years budget, I think the school needs one.
 

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2ndGearRubber

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Pry that whole plate off if possible.

I did a rear hub on a friends 15you rust belt legacy with 130k on it. 498k had the hub/plate assembly loose in about 4 seconds, whole hub on the ground in maybe 30-40 seconds. It's fairly clean for the area and year, but the tool impressed me. Looks a hair better than your example crustiness wise.
 
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Buckgnarly

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Pry that whole plate off if possible.

I did a rear hub on a friends 15you rust belt legacy with 130k on it. 498k had the hub/plate assembly loose in about 4 seconds, whole hub on the ground in maybe 30-40 seconds. It's fairly clean for the area and year, but the tool impressed me. Looks a hair better than your example crustiness wise.
I still have those 2 Crosstreks coming up at home, and thinking that will work great for that....I see what you mean about the thick part.

On this one I wanted to show the kid(s) the round and round technique.
 

2ndGearRubber

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I truly enjoy using 498 hammers because it makes the long barrel 401s seem underwhelming. I've worked with plenty of guys who owned rattle toy air hammers that didnt do anything but make noise. And a 498 makes a snap on or similar hammer feel like a toy. LOL
 

2ndGearRubber

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I still have those 2 Crosstreks coming up at home, and thinking that will work great for that....I see what you mean about the thick part.

On this one I wanted to show the kid(s) the round and round technique.

I assume you're a teacher?

Good job on you for making them work on rusty stuff.
 
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Buckgnarly

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I truly enjoy using 498 hammers because it makes the long barrel 401s seem underwhelming. I've worked with plenty of guys who owned rattle toy air hammers that didnt do anything but make noise. And a 498 makes a snap on or similar hammer feel like a toy. LOL

It really does not feel like the gun is doing much, but the carnage says otherwise. I actually like the longer barrel for a better grip also.
 
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Astro_Pneumatic_Tools

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Gotta check this years budget, I think the school needs one.
Shoot us an address and we'll send a 498K and quick change chuck to the school FOC when we get the next and last batch in.
I wish we had a Thor in our autoshop growing up, I think my hands are still somehow greasy from all the wheel bearings they had us pack by hand
 
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Buckgnarly

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Shoot us an address and we'll send a 498K and quick change chuck to the school FOC when we get the next and last batch in.
I wish we had a Thor in our autoshop growing up, I think my hands are still somehow greasy from all the wheel bearings they had us pack by hand
DONE!....and OUTSTANDING!, thanks!:bowdown:
 

Astro_Pneumatic_Tools

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Is the 498K going to be discontinued?
Yes, it was supposed to be a one time for sale item to help introduce the "THOR" line we're starting, and basically because Eric asked me many times. But oversold everywhere so we're helping to play catch-up.
It's costly and laborsome to produce with the customizations I wanted.
I and people on my team are working on the next THOR tools which will continue on as Astro items for long into the future. But likely not out this year.
 

Odd-job

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Just want to highlight the reference to next gen Thor tools above 😍

Is it me or does anyone else find it ironic that Chris is designing rust defeating tools out of rust free California? Of course with value added feedback from a notorious upstate NY mechanic...
 

signcrafter

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That's amazing of you astro.

So I was going to pull the trigger on the 4980, already bought the quick change chuck for it. Just looking at summit the 4980 is 232 bucks plus taxes and shipping and the 498k which they show in stock is 314. Is the 498k worth the extra 82 bucks? Not sure I need it but don't want to regret and wish I had bought it when they discontinue it.
 
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Buckgnarly

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Just want to highlight the reference to next gen Thor tools above 😍

Is it me or does anyone else find it ironic that Chris is designing rust defeating tools out of rust free California? Of course with value added feedback from a notorious upstate NY mechanic...

I still beleive this gun should be banned from sales in those states that never see rust!...hahaha!
 

2ndGearRubber

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That's amazing of you astro.

So I was going to pull the trigger on the 4980, already bought the quick change chuck for it. Just looking at summit the 4980 is 232 bucks plus taxes and shipping and the 498k which they show in stock is 314. Is the 498k worth the extra 82 bucks? Not sure I need it but don't want to regret and wish I had bought it when they discontinue it.

498k hits harder but slower. If you have the air, 498k is more powerful. I can only go wide open for about 7-8 seconds before the shops weak air supply needs to play catch up.

Downside, you're not driving out some leaf spring shackle bolts with a 498 and quick chuck on it, let alone a 498k. At a certain point the length is a hindrance.
 
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Buckgnarly

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498k hits harder but slower. If you have the air, 498k is more powerful. I can only go wide open for about 7-8 seconds before the shops weak air supply needs to play catch up.

Downside, you're not driving out some leaf spring shackle bolts with a 498 and quick chuck on it, let alone a 498k. At a certain point the length is a hindrance.

100% on the air. We have long runs and 3/8 hoses here, I have 1/2" all around my home shop with much shorter runs. Thor runs WAAAY better at my home shop.
Other than the length, I REALLY like the slower but harder hitting. I actually find it to be more controllable.
 
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Buckgnarly

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Some 498k carnage. Rear wheel bearings on 2015 XV Crosstrek. Took the help of the torch on these two. That's after beating around and outward on the backing plate. I'll NEVER price or do a job on these without including the 72 bucks for each new backing plate.
 

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2ndGearRubber

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No pics, but ole' Thor absolutely DEMOLISHED a 93 K2500 top and lower ball joint job today. Cut the rivet heads and pounded out the rivets....LOVE THIS FREAKING THING!
Mine drove out original ball joints on a 95 Ford explorer last week. No press required.


It is a joy to use.
 

mike93lx

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I see these threads and almost order one but then realize I'd have a 1 second burst every 2 minutes on my little CAT compressor. I wanna play but I don't wanna pay
 
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