I'm sure this has been covered to death, but I can't use the search function on my phone so i'll just ask. Looking to replace an old used wore out harbor freight 4x6 metal band saw. After searching the web I see there are several brands that look to be all from the same casting as the harbor freight ones. Jet, grizzly, general, etc. My question is are all these brands the same saw? Or do these companies buy the casting from the same place and machine them themselves? Are there any real quality differences in the saws? I'm not worried about one brand having a better stand or better wheels, im looking to find out if there are any real differences in the actual quality and operational performance in the saw across the brands. I would hate to spend $700 on the JET if it's really the exact same as the HF. All responses welcome, thanks in advance.
4x6 band saw
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kelpaso1
MEMBER EMERITUS
Good question. I bought a cheap Princess Auto bandsaw and still working great after 20 years. A band saw is not that much of a precision tool. But its faster than a hacksaw and you don't have to sweat 
Kscardsfan
Well-known member
I suspect most of the difference will be in the quality control and the internal parts used. At least I’d like to think there’s a difference between a Jet and a HF special beyond the paint and marketing.
I'm looking at grizzly, the reviews on their saws is pretty good. I was planning on just the 4x6 but the more I procrastinate the more I lean towards going with their 7x12. More of a saw than I really need but I'm having a hard time trusting that another's version of the same HF saw isthat much better.
Kscardsfan
Well-known member
You can always do less with a bigger saw. It’s a ***** to make a small saw cut bigger pieces.
MushCreek
Well-known member
Many years ago, I had a Rong Fu, made in Taiwan. It worked pretty good for a cheap saw. Some time later, I bought a HF that was virtually identical. I never could get it to work right, even after considerable work. I'm a tool maker by trade, so I'm pretty good at this stuff. I suspect that although the castings are the same or similar, the tolerances are reflected in the price. It seems to me that stuff made in Taiwan is a step up, if you can find one. That, or a 'name brand', like Grizzly or Jet. I wouldn't pay the price of a new one, though. I bought my huge (24" capacity) Kalamazoo for $200, and it's only fault is that it's way too big.
jmarkwolf
Well-known member
Consider parts availability, customer support, quality control, and documentation.
HF falls short, Grizzly shines, even if it is the same saw.
HF falls short, Grizzly shines, even if it is the same saw.
LeeG
Well-known member
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
I had a jet, and a harbor freight. The only difference I noticed was the motor. I ran both of them for years,sometimes eight hours a day.
The problem I'm having is the saw is not cutting square on the vertical axis. It's not an adjustment issue that I can find. If i hold a machinists square on the bed with the blade upright, as I raise the saw it does not raise perfectly straight. I end up with 1/16" off square on a 2" square tube. To be honest I don't know if this saw has always been like this, as it's only been used for rough cuts of sorts so I wasn't worried about it cutting a little off square.
So if the problem is in the casting, how can I be assured that another brand of the same casting won't be off too. It wouldn't be a problem if there were still brick and motor stores left that stocked merchandise a person could go see before purchasing rather than ordering online and going through the return process if it was defective.
This was my wonder, jet is $700, HF 350 roughly. U doubt that jet has a $350 better motor.
MushCreek
Well-known member
That's the kind of stuff you run into. Mine had alignment issues, which I fixed by re-machining, and the blade wouldn't stay on no matter what I did. It also had a ball bearing which was loose in the bore, to the extent that it fell out. TBH, for structural steel like angle or channel, I cut it with a SawZall if it doesn't have to be good, and a cheap miter saw with an abrasive blade if I want it square. Both are quicker than a bandsaw. I only need a bandsaw for thick solid stuff.
metlmunchr
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I've got a Wilton 4x6 made In Taiwan that's probably 40 years old. $10 auction purchase needing new bearings that serve as blade guides. I keep a fine tooth blade on it and use it for cutting thin wall tubing.
As Mush said, when you look at the HF saw in comparison, the HF just looks rough from most every aspect. I'm also in the camp of those who wouldn't buy any of the 4x6 saws new at the current prices. There's just too many far better saws in the used market for the same money, as well as lightly used 4x6 saws needing a tune up at a fraction of the price of new.
As Mush said, when you look at the HF saw in comparison, the HF just looks rough from most every aspect. I'm also in the camp of those who wouldn't buy any of the 4x6 saws new at the current prices. There's just too many far better saws in the used market for the same money, as well as lightly used 4x6 saws needing a tune up at a fraction of the price of new.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
The HF was $200 when I bought it new, and the Jet I got for $50 at a yard sale..lol
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
You can adjust the angle of the blade to compensate. It will never be 100%, but you can get it so close it won’t matter most of the time.
metlmunchr
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If the head of the saw is raising along a line that's not 90° to the bed then no amount of blade adjusting will produce a square cut. If this is a problem that's shown up recently rather than one that's always been there, then I'd look for wear at the pivot points of the head.
Another possibility is that the saw has been turned over and damaged in the past. For the problem you described, this would most likely show up at the pivot points as well.
If nothing shows damage or wear, that sorta leaves something having been drilled not quite right when it was manufactured, and for these saws that wouldn't be surprising.
Another possibility is that the saw has been turned over and damaged in the past. For the problem you described, this would most likely show up at the pivot points as well.
If nothing shows damage or wear, that sorta leaves something having been drilled not quite right when it was manufactured, and for these saws that wouldn't be surprising.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
For a 4 or 6 inch cut you can adjust it out with the blade. There is flex in the blade.
Obviously it will get worse the higher you lift the arm, so that can’t be compensated if you’re cutting something that’s 12 inches tall, but for most cut you can.
I agree and understand what you’re saying, but if it’s not too far out, you can compensate with an adjustment.
Obviously it will get worse the higher you lift the arm, so that can’t be compensated if you’re cutting something that’s 12 inches tall, but for most cut you can.
I agree and understand what you’re saying, but if it’s not too far out, you can compensate with an adjustment.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
I can remember putting pressure on the top or the bottom of the blade when making really long cuts to follow a line LOL
This is my opinion exactly. Drilled wrong or something. Can't adjust it out and not for lack of trying. I decided on the 7x12 grizzly, hopefully I won't be disappointed. It's going in a home shop, I build vintage style custom mini bikes on the side among other things. The saw will be used but not over used or abused. Cutting mild steel, tube, angle iron and aluminum will be about all it will do. I appreciate all the responses.
One last question if I may, looking for experienced suggestions on blades for the new saw. Bi metal I know, but any brands and sources? I plan on 10-14 tpi for mild steel and a bit courser for aluminum, seem about right?
BD1
Well-known member
Maybe consider a Gem bench saw ?? I know there's are post about them on Weldingweb.
www.trick-tools.com
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782XL Mitering Bandsaw, HEM Saw, Femi
The HEM Saw 782XL portable bandsaw is a great fit for hobbyists and those needing a accurate portable saw with a large cutting capacity.
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Old Man Roger
Well-known member
I’ve had great luck with the 18 tpi blade from Harbor freight, believe it or not. Not the cheapest one they have, that one breaks as you’re installing it LOL
I've had my HF saw 16 years and it's never cut straight vertically and I don't see how to adjust it, either. For me though, it's rarely a problem for what I do.
RGausman
Active member
Search "HF 4x6 bandsaw tune up" Their are two good YT on how to make adjustments. I was able to get my saw thin test cuts of 3" square tubing within .010" . Amazing. Spent two hours of tweaking the blade tracking and the adjustable blade guides.
Maui
Well-known member
I'd suggest buying an older used American built saw.
whateg01
Well-known member
You can't do much about the head not coming down straight. It'll just pull the blade into the work. I would look at the holes in the base where the pivot pin goes through it and many see about bushing them.
isb cornbinder
Well-known member
I also bought a Princess Auto metal saw. I bought my saw more than 25 years ago. The saw works well and PAL sell the replacement blades. I only buy bi-Metal blades. The carbon blades may las one cut on welded square tube. PAL have a great warranty that allows you to take your purchase back nearly for ever or until you are happy. I think a person might have to demonstrate a failure with the saw.Good question. I bought a cheap Princess Auto bandsaw and still working great after 20 years. A band saw is not that much of a precision tool. But its faster than a hacksaw and you don't have to sweat
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finn
Well-known member
I have a $75 Wilton CL sale saw that’s probably forty or more years old and a Jet from tthe Menards store relocation close out sale.
The Wilton uses a longer blade that not everyone carries, and the Jet must be a stripped down version since it doesn’t have a tray to catch the swarf.
The old Wilton seems to cut better, so I just leave the Jet in the vertical position.. some day I will fabricate a larger, more robust table for it.
Both seem better finished than the HF display models.
The Wilton uses a longer blade that not everyone carries, and the Jet must be a stripped down version since it doesn’t have a tray to catch the swarf.
The old Wilton seems to cut better, so I just leave the Jet in the vertical position.. some day I will fabricate a larger, more robust table for it.
Both seem better finished than the HF display models.
whateg01
Well-known member
I don't think I've ever seen a 4x6 that had a factory tray like the 7x12s do for catching the swarf. The 7x12 is typically have a compartment underneath for a pump as well. That's the real reason for the tray is to catch the coolant and route it back into the coolant tank.
finn
Well-known member
My Wilton has the tray. I believe it’s part of the casting, not a separate piece. I have thought about adding a coolant pump to it, but am somewhat reluctant to let the tools become the projec.
You’re probably correct about the Jet. I have seen trays and pumps, but they could very well have been on larger machines.
Part of the reason the Wilton is used most is because the shop stays cleaner, with the tray catching the mess.
Somewhere in its lifespan the motor on the Wilton has been replaced with. Dayton. It’s a lot smoother than the Imported Jet motor. Seems more powerful, but that could be perception rather than reality.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Thats strange. At one time I had a jet and a harbor freight, mine were virtually identical, other than the motors.