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5/16” x 24 threads grade 8 all-thread?

ron350

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Not sure if this is the right section to post this?

I need a little help finding a company that sells 5/16” x 24 threads grade 8 all-thread.
So far the only company I can find is McMaster-Carr.

I only need a one foot piece I am want to make four 2-1/4” long studs.
 
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alex71

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search for B7 all thread rod. rod isn't spec'd as grade 8 like bolts are. B7 is equivalent.

you will find many more choices this way.
 

alex71

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if you get desperate I can sell it to you, but you will be buying 35, 3ft sticks. no way am I stocking this dog in my warehouse.
 

MaineGuide

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https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/47668?r=~%7Ccategoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl2:%22600169%20Rods%209and%20Studs%22%7C~%20~%7Ccategoryl3:%22600173%20Threaded%20Rods%22%7C~%20~%7Csattr05:%5EB7$%7C~%20~%7Csattr02:%5E5/16%22-24$%7C~
 

LXCam

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Have you tried searching running thread instead of allthread?
 

6PTsocket

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Mar 12, 2014
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Not sure if this is the right section to post this?

I need a little help finding a company that sells 5/16” x 24 threads grade 8 all-thread.
So far the only company I can find is McMaster-Carr.

I only need a one foot piece I am want to make four 2-1/4” long studs.
Buy full thread bolts. A quick check and I found grade 8, 2 1/2" Cut off the head and a little more and you have it. It is much easier to find grade 8 bolts than screw stock. You were prepared to cut up the screw stock, anyway. I would be surprised if you can't find a few bolts on ebay.

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alex71

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Fully threaded grade 8 bolts, fine threads especially, aren't exactly common or cheap either. still a good idea to look though.
 

Teenager with old tools

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riverside california
Since no one else suggested it. Now is the perfect excuse to go out and buy a lathe and some round stock to cut threads into and then set up your forge so you can properly harden and temper the mild steel.

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2oolhound

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The trouble with using all thread for studs is you don't have the plain shank a stud has which is better fitting inside the part that gets the load. Tension load isn't bad but if the part gets shear load the threads contact the holes in the part you're securing which could lead to movement over time. Some precisely located dowel pins would help in that situation as they would prevent movement from sideways shearing forces. The fact you need gr.8 means this is important.

I'd try to source some studs from someone like ARP. You could talk to them about strength requirements. This is right up their alley.

Here's a link to some studs:

https://www.summitracing.com/int/search/product-line/arp-individual-studs/top-thread-size/5-16-24-in

ARP:

http://www.arp-bolts.com/kits/Bulk.php?PL=1&M=2&W=*&D=2&P=7&WS=7&Set1_page=2
 

WittHay

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Surrey, BC Canada
i have always called it ready rod, proper term might be threaded rod. Zoolhound's suggestion using proper studs is a good idea, they are stronger than using thread rod
 
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ron350

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Nov 17, 2009
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Birmingham
No such studs exist.

Chevy water pump takes .410 inches of 5/16 x 24 threads and I need .750 inches on the other end for the lock washer and nut. All the studs on the market are made with only.5 inches of threads on the end that I need .750 inches of thread.
 
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ron350

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Nov 17, 2009
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Location
Birmingham
Thanks for all the help.
I ended up ordering 1 foot threaded rod from MC hope shipping costs are OK.
 

bob15

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Northeasten, CT
No such studs exist.

Chevy water pump takes .410 inches of 5/16 x 24 threads and I need .750 inches on the other end for the lock washer and nut. All the studs on the market are made with only.5 inches of threads on the end that I need .750 inches of thread.

Why couldn't you just tap the .25" that you need?

ARP is a very good source as well.....
 
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