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5/4 x 6 decking

rtz

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May 27, 2018
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Oklahoma City
Are these notorious for warping or the edges curling up? Any way to keep them flat?

If they were ran through a planer; would they be even more susceptible to warping due to being thinner?
 
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NUTTSGT

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Northern Central Ohio
When I built our front wrap around porch, basically 8x50, I bought an entire bunk of 16 footers. So we're fine, some twisted and a few shrunk enough to pull through the screws at the end of the boards.
 

ford33

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Feb 26, 2011
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Chicago, IL. USA
Consider composite decking for the floor. It is stable, doesn't warp and is a lower maintenance product.

It costs more to purchase but installation is the same and you will not have to deal with an uneven floor and wood splinters.
 

shelteredV

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Sep 3, 2015
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The Rock
We use exotics such as Tigerwood, Garapa, Cumaru, Ipe. These are extremely stable although a bit tougher to work with. I'm not a fan of plastic decking as it becomes bait for polyestermites...
 

dfiler2

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Dec 15, 2014
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NW Minnesota
We use exotics such as Tigerwood, Garapa, Cumaru, Ipe. These are extremely stable although a bit tougher to work with. I'm not a fan of plastic decking as it becomes bait for polyestermites...

Polyestermites?:)

There has to be a good comeback for that one, I just can't think of it, too early.
 

Kaizen

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Jan 9, 2015
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New England
Op what species of wood do you have?
I’ve flipped over cupped boards with good results


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

steveo1o9

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Oct 10, 2016
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603
Location
Eastern MD
I needed to band aid my deck with a few new boards last summer. I re-did the railing as well with the decking boards. The railing warped so bad it is almost laughable. I mitered the corners and they were tight when I did it, but it now looks like I cut it with my eyes closed. It was impossible to find dry boards at store when I bought them and even let them dry out in my garage for a week or two beforehand as well.
 
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Jackfre

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Dec 26, 2010
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N CA
I am currently re-building a small building on the property and I am amazed at how poor the available lumber is. I think they are cutting 8" trees for 2x4-6's. I did a mahogany deck back east, but big $. When I re-modeled here, I just gave up and went composite. I used the Camo fastening system which has been excellent. The deck is flat and no risers or twist. Using an affordable wood, you are always going to be repairing/replacing and you cannot match the color or appearance.
 

HeelSpur

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May 12, 2012
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Location
WV
Back in 2002 we built a huge deck for a friend and he left it natural for about 5 years then decided to stain it. Had some guy come in and spray the stain and covered every exposed area. It didn't take long till the buckling started. The stain was blocking most of the moisture from entering into the wood. Ends of 2x6's were snapping the screws.
Lots more of them are buckling up so i'm going to check the ends for the ring up or down.
 

shelteredV

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Sep 3, 2015
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The Rock
Iron wood is a common term for a wood that is heavier than specific gravity, in other words, it sinks when you throw in the water.
A guy that I learned a lot from always said to "keep the bark up", the board will always cup to the center of the tree. Good advise for decking most of the time.
 

t1snwbrdr12

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Jan 22, 2011
Messages
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Location
Maryland
Iron wood is a common term for a wood that is heavier than specific gravity, in other words, it sinks when you throw in the water.
A guy that I learned a lot from always said to "keep the bark up", the board will always cup to the center of the tree. Good advise for decking most of the time.
most of the time. I re-did the floor and railing tops of my deck last year. carefully placed the boards bark side up, and ended up having about 1/3 of them cupped the wrong way. I read recently that you really cant guess how they'll cup for some reason, reasons I don't remember right now though.
 

Marctrees

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Mar 5, 2015
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Location
TX/LA border - Toledo Bend
jonshonda is right on.

Here is a drawing of normal wood warp... sometimes you will get a board that goes Section 8, but in most cases what is shown below is reality.

5/4 radiused edge decking is plainsawn... unless you can find quartersawn.. but will be like 5X $.


Contrary to common belief... LOOK AT which side of the plainsawn board goes convex.
as it dries.

You want THAT side.. the convex one... up installed as decking.

Marc


wood warp.jpg

https://www.google.com/search?q=lum...iPXcAhVqmuAKHUaODFcQ_AUIDCgD&biw=1229&bih=608
 
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CombatNinja

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Aug 24, 2013
Messages
1,456
This^^^

I redecked mine two years ago with southern yellow pine knowing it is sort of janky but I was just trying to get a few more years out of my deck before a complete tear-off and rebuild to something a little nicer, larger and multi-level that would suit our needs better.

One thing I can urge you to do is do your due diligence at the lumber store and pick through all of the wood to get nice straight boards with no knots or splits. I really didn't mind slight crooks as I could force them back to straight on install. I pre-drilled every single hole close to the edges (but not too close) and screwed it together. Some of the boards had such severe crooks that once I screwed one down about halfway, the other end would be 6" away from where it needed to be. I just made a little wedge jig and forced those things back to straight. I installed them with the rings 'down' and not one single board has cupped on me in two years. I applied some oil-based toner twice now and I have no issues. The whole redeck cost me less than $500 and lots of free exercise but I have neighbors that have paid triple that for 'better' wood and have all kinds of problems with cupping/twisting and nail pop. The way you build it is just as important as what you build it with.
 
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