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5" Angle Grinder, which to choose?

seanb02

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Hey Folks, need some input on purchasing an angle grinder in the 5" size. Essentially have narrowed it down to Metabo or Makita. It will be running regular grinding wheels, cutoff wheels, or a flap disk. Granted I should be buying 3 corded grinders so as to have one for each task, but going to start with one for now. I do have a couple of DeWalt cordless grinders for quick tasks as well as a few junky corded ones floating around in the shop.

Now, what I'm wondering about is how the amp rating stacks up in the real world as far as power, and the tradeoff in weight in regards to that larger motor. Metabo seems to have quite a few different amp options. Also ones with brakes? Without brakes? Makes my head spin a little bit.

I've got a couple of sheet metal projects coming up, so need to get this narrowed down and order something.

Here is a Makita I was looking at (13A)

https://www.makitatools.com/products/details/9565PC

And here is a Metabo I was checking out (10.5A quick change and has a brake)

https://www.metabo.com/us/enus/tool...wpb-12-125-quick-600428420-angle-grinder.html

There are a lot of other options available, those were just the two I sort of narrowed it down to before I over analyzed and froze my brain. There is about $100 difference in price between the two. Is the Metabo worth $100 more for less amps?

Thanks
 
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seanb02

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Are you dead set on those models?

I have the Metabo WEV15-125, it self regulates disc speed based on a selectable speed, I find the variability and constant RPM function makes it more controllable. Brake I'm not particular about myself, and I'm not super fond of paddles.


https://www.metabo.com/us/enus/tool...wev-15-125-quick-600468420-angle-grinder.html

I am not at all set on those particular models, they mostly showcase the style I am looking for. Variable speed as you posted isn't really an attractive feature to me. Probably not something that I would find very useful for the types of work I intend to do with it.

Paddle switch is something I "think" I want to have. Since I won't be flipping it on and going at something for hours, it seems at though it would be easier to grab it and go, take my hand away and it turns off.
 

rice rocket

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That makes sense. Different strokes.

I'll still advocate for a model with an "E" in the name, which is the constant speed regulation. It looks like the Makita you sent has that as well, but I have no working experience with Makita grinders (other than the cheap one I have is a bit raw, but for $50 works fine, but that doesn't really help you).
 

lis2323

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WittHay

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Yep, its not a real shop in Canada unless there is a 6" Record Vise and a Makita ratail grinder in it. I have a newer made in USA 9005B. The ratails with the lock on is good for grinding and wire brushing for extended periods.

i have always thought about a Walter 4 1/2" corded grinder. Light weight for cleaning up welds and variable speed for smaller wire brushes. Made in Germany by Metabo for Walter

Probably will pick up a Makita DGA513Z 5" cordless soon. Has a lock on switch, brake and variable speed . Slowly going away from Milwaukee Fuel
 

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rcbk00

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I have a variable speed 13 amp Bosch I bought refurbished. It was $80 or $90. It's heavy, and the paddle switch on it is somewhat awkward, but the variable speed is super nice. I use it on lower speeds for twisted wire and diamond cup wheels and at higher speeds for grinding and cutting disks. I don't think I would ever buy a single speed grinder again. If the Bosch crapped out today, I would probably buy another one. Also, even though the Bosch paddle switch is kind of awkward, it's definitely safer than the slide switch grinders I used to use. I had one of those get away from me while it was on (with a wire cup wheel) and I'm lucky I didn't get hurt. Good luck with whatever you wind up choosing.
 

MattT

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It will be running regular grinding wheels, cutoff wheels, or a flap disk. Granted I should be buying 3 corded grinders

Probably 2. A 6" for cut off wheels and a powerful 4 1/2" or 5" for grinding. What you already have is probably good enough for flap discs. If I could find a pair of Makitas for the price of one Metabo I'd go that route. Makita ain't as refined but they're solid grinders that hold up better than Metabos IME.
 

seber

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Metabo is the only brand I haven't been able to burn up. Slow start is nice but not essential. Tooless change can save a lot of time. Brakes also save time but not as much. Tooless guard adjustment may get you to leave it attached. That can save your hand. My hands are pretty scarred from angle grinder abuse. Is the Metabo worth $100 more? To a very heavy user, I would say yes. To a weekend warrior, that's a big jump.
 

BK13

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While my next grinder will be a Metabo, I have a 5" Fein that I like a bunch.
 

sberry

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I wire wheel with air but if I was using electric would find something variable. I use air cut off, I might be able to do it single speed but it's a neat idea. We use electric for 1/4 grinding. We use them often enough that it was an issue about wear and tear and power. Didn't want to hear the comp run every zing with a grinder. About 90% of the work is 1/4 hard wheel. I can even smooth and sand quite well with it, just been doing it so long it's second nature.
I field sharpen some drill bits, reflex kicks in and even do it standing at the bench.
 

sberry

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Power,, over 7A or so is really operator strength. A guy can bear down on one for a little bit but soon it is tiring enough most can't take much advantage unless they are using bigger wheels. [Note,, the disclaimers,, some, much and many]
Like Lis,,, highly organized stock.
 

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dutchgray

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I would buy the Makita personally, I don't think the Metabo grinders are worth the extra in a home shop environment and the linked Makita is one of their better specced options.
I have several Makita's, a Metabo and a couple Hitachi. They are all fine.
I have worn out a couple lower end Makita grinders in my time but they do a serious amount of work before this happens, failure on both has been windings going. Not had any of the others long enough to kill them yet, plus with more in circulation they all do less work.
 
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seanb02

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Thanks for all the input guys, keep it coming! Also wanted to mention this is not a home shop or weekend warrior type use. Farm shop use, sometimes fabrication projects can get rather extensive, other times it’s just simple repairs. Just depends on the week and what breaks down. It won’t be getting as much use as a proper fab shop would, but much more than most guys will use one on the weekends.
 
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lis2323

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Thanks for all the input guys, keep it coming! Also wanted to mention this is not a home shop or weekend warrior type use. Farm shop use, sometimes fabrication projects can get rather extensive, other times it’s just simple repairs. Just depends on the week and what breaks down. It won’t be getting as much use as a proper fab shop would, but much more than most guys will use one on the weekends.


That’s cool and good to know! I’m in the same situation. Farm shops rule! LOL
 

sberry

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Thanks for all the input guys, keep it coming! Also wanted to mention this is not a home shop or weekend warrior type use. Farm shop use, sometimes fabrication projects can get rather extensive, other times it’s just simple repairs. Just depends on the week and what breaks down. It won’t be getting as much use as a proper fab shop would, but much more than most guys will use one on the weekends.

This is good,,, to have some idea of duty cycle. I am all for variety. We found a couple cheap ones and focused on them to make replacement painless as possible. I Remer buying a new Milwaukee and not too long later rollin a pipe on it. I fixxed it to work but it could just as good been a 30 $ one as 100.
I started using a BD I had bought to carry behind the truck seat and happened to use it, realized it was a cousin of popular models, actually shares some of the same parts. Got a sale once at 20, should have bought 4 instead of 2 but they been last g well, tossed a couple in last 10 yrs and had put them on the bench where they became the default tool and was really impressed.
One thing to be impressed with a 100 or 200 $tool but 25 or 30 is a different matter. The vynal cord has been super and outlast the rubber 2 to 1, cant ever recall fixing one. I put where it really got used lots. Lots of zings. Once in a while run a couple wheels off in heavy work but have learned not to back in a corner and real heavy duty salvage is more rare all the time, abused more, worked them harder way back than I do today.. at times can work every day and use a wheel for a month. I found some decent 1$ wheels makes that rather painless to grab up 10 to pitch in stock. They are about as good and sometimes it's hard to discern even on hard work.
I do a lot because it's easy as well or even rather than the best. Sometimes 85% is adequate or more economical, it's not a hobby for me. I got no interest in impressing salesman and don't need to be blown, I can grab off the shelf, even prefer it. Roll of wire was 15 less at Menards than anywhere although I bought one lws a while back as I wanted to find out something from the salesman. I hadn't talked to him in a while, he may really add value to some and maybe even refer sales but as for supplies hobby and diy that **** is irrelevent.
Like knowing where it's at at the right price. I comparison shop a little ahead.
 

sberry

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When I was fab shop bust always replaced a roll when I put a new one on, still do it some but not as touchy to be ahead so far. So many more places carry so much more than they used to, 30 yrs ago wouldn't had considered buying a box of rod at a box store.
 
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seanb02

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Well, in true Garage Journal fashion, I ended up ordering both. :wtf:

Chose to go with the models I originally linked rather than dive deeper into analysis and confuse myself even more. Second guessing myself now, probably should have gotten one as a rat tail model? But thinking the compactness of this style would likely be more handy even if slightly less comfortable. Suppose that time will tell on that one.

Was working on a project this afternoon where having two would have come in very handy. Got it done by doing the cuts in 1/4" plate with my 1hp snappy pneumatic cut off tool, and cleaning up for welding with a flap disk on my DeWalt 20v grinder. Cuts would have been much faster with a larger wheel on a proper corded grinder. Went through 4 of the 3" disks doing it this way. Almost did the cutting with a torch, but wanted cleaner cuts than that would have made. Cleanup was slow with the cordless, and ate 3 batteries in the process.

So I think two will be a better start for me. The grinders in the shop are just plain crappy, so I almost always use my own tools for everything since the rest of the shop equipment is that way too. Both brands should be able to give me 20 years of service or so, and if one doesn't last or has other problems then it will be a good comparison for future purchasing if I choose to add a 3rd one at some later time.

Purchased the Metabo through Ohio Power Tool, and the Makita from Acme Tools. Hopefully at least one is here by the end of the week. Haven't ordered from either outfit before, but both appear to be legit sources where I shouldn't have to worry about getting factory seconds or Chinese clones.
 
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PhysicsDude

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Metabo has a lot of nice features, but you do pay for them. I don't think Metabo publishes this, but this is the code for their features in the model names:

W - safety clutch (although they apparently use W in some models without it)
E - Electronic soft start
V - Vario-Techo-Constamatic (variable speed)
B - brake that stops the disk within 2 seconds of releasing the trigger
A - Auto balancer to reduce vibrations
P - non-locking paddle switch

In my opinion, the 2 most important features to get are the safety clutch and the brake. I think all of Metabo's grinders over $100 have the safety clutch. The brake really helps speed up your work as you don't have to sit there and wait for the wheel to stop turning before you set the grinder down.

The autobalancing feature is nice. When I'm holding my autobalancing Metabo grinder with hearing protection and gloves (which is every time I use it) if I closed my eyes I literally have a hard time knowing if the grinder is running or not based on feel. Its that smooth. But, I think its more of a luxury than anything. Sometimes you can get the fully loaded Metabo grinders at a decent price, but most of you time you have to shell out ~$300 for them, and that's a lot of coin to spend on a grinder.
 

BFBOB

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I have two, DeWalt and Milwaukee. Both work great, plenty of power in a small pakage.
 
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seanb02

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I have two, DeWalt and Milwaukee. Both work great, plenty of power in a small pakage.

If it was for home garage use I would have almost certainly gone with either yellow or red. But reviews seem hit and miss on both of those, so I was wary of grabbing one for using in a shop.
 

tarbellb

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Nah, you did the right thing. Nothing special about red or yellow, Ive had all 4 brands. Red being the most disappointing, and I have way to much FUEL stuff...

I like my Metabo, love my Brushless Hitachi, and enjoy my Fein.

Makitas are the common workhorse in any shop, I believe they are still pretty high quality, but production has moved to China over the last decade.

Enjoy and report back how you like them.
 
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seanb02

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Metabo has a lot of nice features, but you do pay for them. I don't think Metabo publishes this, but this is the code for their features in the model names:

W - safety clutch (although they apparently use W in some models without it)
E - Electronic soft start
V - Vario-Techo-Constamatic (variable speed)
B - brake that stops the disk within 2 seconds of releasing the trigger
A - Auto balancer to reduce vibrations
P - non-locking paddle switch

In my opinion, the 2 most important features to get are the safety clutch and the brake. I think all of Metabo's grinders over $100 have the safety clutch. The brake really helps speed up your work as you don't have to sit there and wait for the wheel to stop turning before you set the grinder down.

The autobalancing feature is nice. When I'm holding my autobalancing Metabo grinder with hearing protection and gloves (which is every time I use it) if I closed my eyes I literally have a hard time knowing if the grinder is running or not based on feel. Its that smooth. But, I think its more of a luxury than anything. Sometimes you can get the fully loaded Metabo grinders at a decent price, but most of you time you have to shell out ~$300 for them, and that's a lot of coin to spend on a grinder.

Good info on all the model numbers break down. One I purchased is a WPB, I thought it had auto balancing but would have to check again since it isn't in the model number. The brake wasn't really a selling point for me, but time will tell if it becomes invaluable to have. Assuming the guard is left in place setting it down after use on a flat surface while still spinning should not be an issue. If the guard was removed then yeah I can see it being a problem waiting for it to slow down.

But I plan to leave the guards in place unless it becomes necessary to remove to get into a certain area, in which case the guard will go back on immediately after the task is completed. This is one of the reasons I don't grab any of the ones floating around in the shop anymore, the guards are never on there. Took the time once a few years ago to go around finding all the guards and reinstalling them in an attempt to bring the shop into OSHA compliance. Went to use one a few weeks later and the guards were long gone again. Been using my cordless one instead ever since. Should probably go around and just cut the cords off the non compliant tools in the shop, but many of the guys wouldn't get anything accomplished at all if I did that.
 
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seanb02

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Nah, you did the right thing. Nothing special about red or yellow, Ive had all 4 brands. Red being the most disappointing, and I have way to much FUEL stuff...

I like my Metabo, love my Brushless Hitachi, and enjoy my Fein.

Makitas are the common workhorse in any shop, I believe they are still pretty high quality, but production has moved to China over the last decade.

Enjoy and report back how you like them.

Thanks. The Makita actually did say Made in USA on the website. Would be interesting to know if it really is, or perhaps assembled in the USA with global components as my recent Snap-on impact stated on the box? Actually would be kind of surprised if there is much in the way of any handheld power tools still being fully manufactured in the USA.
 

tarbellb

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Thanks. The Makita actually did say Made in USA on the website. Would be interesting to know if it really is, or perhaps assembled in the USA with global components as my recent Snap-on impact stated on the box? Actually would be kind of surprised if there is much in the way of any handheld power tools still being fully manufactured in the USA.

Good news! I should do my homework before spouting off on COO, I do believe Makitas reputation is still top notch and earned.
 

rice rocket

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The autobalancer is unique to Metabo, I believe. It only comes on their fully loaded model.

<iframe width="1198" height="684" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/ogfx9IOyLMo" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

sberry

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I like guards, use them to my advantage. When I was early on in this biz was always backing myself in some corner where I had to do hard stuff with a grinder,,, very very rarely anymore.
 

Steve_P

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I would bet almost all electric power tools that are labeled made in the US have global components. Which is fine.
I have a couple of variable speed Metabos and they've ruined me. I'll never buy anything but variable speed after using them
 

Tinner

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Took the time once a few years ago to go around finding all the guards and reinstalling them in an attempt to bring the shop into OSHA compliance. Went to use one a few weeks later and the guards were long gone again. Been using my cordless one instead ever since. Should probably go around and just cut the cords off the non compliant tools in the shop, but many of the guys wouldn't get anything accomplished at all if I did that.

OSHA doesn't require guards on hand held grinders unless you are running a cutting disc or rigid grinding wheel. Sanding discs, flap discs, wire wheels, Scotchbrite, no guard is required.
 
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seanb02

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OSHA doesn't require guards on hand held grinders unless you are running a cutting disc or rigid grinding wheel. Sanding discs, flap discs, wire wheels, Scotchbrite, no guard is required.

I know. One really cheap little B&D 4.5" seems to constantly be rocking a thin 6" cutting wheel. Barely have a spot hold the darned thing the wheel is so big. :shocking:

Hence why I won't touch them anymore. Don't want to spend 30 minutes looking for a guard and the proper wheel to put on for a quick cut. And don't want to take my chances at losing a finger or worse if I grab one for a quick cut and don't take the time to set it up properly first. :wtf:
 
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