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$5 Hospital Grade Receptacles?

pizza

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i was looking at receptacles for projects and to replace worn out ones at home, and i decided to start at hospital grade.

generally, it seems the manufacturers make a (regular) "heavy duty" (HD) hospital grade and an "extra heavy duty" (EHD) hospital grade. going deeper than that requires looking at each manufacturer. leviton, for example:


UL construction and performance requirements for Hospital Grade receptacles are more stringent than those for specification grade devices. Leviton Hospital Grade receptacles meet or exceed these requirements. These receptacles are Fed Spec W-C-596 rated.

1715656035634.png

the HD has an H added to the model number, whereas the EHD does not. e.g. 8300-HW and 8300-W are white 5-20R duplex (the latter is the top of the line EHD).

the industrial, non-hospital-grade is similar:

1715656283954.png

the main difference i'm seeing is between the EHDs: the hospital grade's strap is plated.

so, in this particular case, is the hospital HD actually better than the industrial HD? there are additional tests, yes:

but will the industrial version actually wear out first or something? i don't think that's an easy question to answer, but i shop for hospital grade just in case.

of course i looked for hubbell first, but they were harder to find at places i'm used to shopping, and they seemed too expensive even at electrical supply house websites... especially the "HBL" models (what hubbell calls EHD) which could easily be $30 or more.

the levitons seemed the most available to me in my search. i just picked up four red EHD 5-20R receptacles (8300-R) because red looks cool. i'm putting them in my desk as like a flush-mount, built-in power strip basically.

1715657671049.png

i got them from amazon for $14/ea. they were about a dollar cheaper on home depot, but it's not an item they stock in store, so i would've had to get it shipped. i would have gone for 15A ones, but my desk doesn't have to be to code, and for whatever reason i found that 20A hospital grades are cheaper than 15A excepting perhaps one specific color. this was true on home depot's website as well. this seems weird to me because i'm used to 20A always being more expensive than 15A, but i guess normal pricing rules don't apply to specialty stuff like this – whatever they buy in volume is cheapest.

i've seen EHDs as cheap as $8.50 on amazon for the white ones (8300-W), which seems very reasonable to me.

which brings me to the thread title... Legrand P&S's HD 5-15R duplex in ivory is $5.50 on amazon and menards. i picked up two of them to replace worn out outlets in my garage.

and ****, this one's $4.70 at lowe's:

so what's up with these inexpensive hospital grade receptacles? reading old threads on here, i thought they were like $10 minimum, and that was pricing from like 10 years ago.
 
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ybnormal

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red might look cool but it's generally used to indicate an Emergency Power outlet.

I would really not advise you do that. some people could plug medical devices into those without actually checking to see if they really were an EP outlet. and when the power does fail..... just not a good idea.

working in IT in a health setting for the last 15 years, I seen all kinds of things while dealing with infrastructure.
 
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pizza

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I would really not advise you do that. some people could plug medical devices into those without actually checking to see if they really were an EP outlet. and when the power does fail..... just not a good idea.
dude, it'll be built into my work-from-home desk... lol

also, that's not a code violation, but having 20A receptacles is one in this case considering that, for starters, the desk's power comes in on 14awg. it's a fancy "standing desk", and i'm tapping into that power so that the desk has only a single cord coming to it.
 
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Meursault74

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i was looking at receptacles for projects and to replace worn out ones at home, and i decided to start at hospital grade.

generally, it seems the manufacturers make a (regular) "heavy duty" (HD) hospital grade and an "extra heavy duty" (EHD) hospital grade. going deeper than that requires looking at each manufacturer. leviton, for example:




1715656035634.png

the HD has an H added to the model number, whereas the EHD does not. e.g. 8300-HW and 8300-W are white 5-20R duplex (the latter is the top of the line EHD).

the industrial, non-hospital-grade is similar:

1715656283954.png

the main difference i'm seeing is between the EHDs: the hospital grade's strap is plated.

so, in this particular case, is the hospital HD actually better than the industrial HD? there are additional tests, yes:

but will the industrial version actually wear out first or something? i don't think that's an easy question to answer, but i shop for hospital grade just in case.

of course i looked for hubbell first, but they were harder to find at places i'm used to shopping, and they seemed too expensive even at electrical supply house websites... especially the "HBL" models (what hubbell calls EHD) which could easily be $30 or more.

the levitons seemed the most available to me in my search. i just picked up four red EHD 50-20R receptacles (8300-R) because red looks cool. i'm putting them in my desk as like a flush-mount, built-in power strip basically.

1715657671049.png

i got them from amazon for $14/ea. they were about a dollar cheaper on home depot, but it's not an item they stock in store, so i would've had to get it shipped. i would have gone for 15A ones, but my desk doesn't have to be to code, and for whatever reason i found that 20A hospital grades are cheaper than 15A excepting perhaps one specific color. this was true on home depot's website as well. this seems weird to me because i'm used to 20A always being more expensive than 15A, but i guess normal pricing rules don't apply to specialty stuff like this – whatever they buy in volume is cheapest.

i've seen EHDs as cheap as $8.50 on amazon for the white ones (8300-W), which seems very reasonable to me.

which brings me to the thread title... Legrand P&S's HD 5-15R duplex in ivory is $5.50 on amazon and menards. i picked up two of them to replace worn out outlets in my garage.

and ****, this one's $4.70 at lowe's:

so what's up with these inexpensive hospital grade receptacles? reading old threads on here, i thought they were like $10 minimum, and that was pricing from like 10 years ago.
I haven't bought any hospital grade outlets. I have bought 20A GFCI. They were less than the equivalent 15A at the time. My circuits are 20A so I used them. I don't have anything with a 20A plug. My thinking why they cost less is that they are "uglier". Most of my 20A GFCI are in my garage and BBQ island outside, so looks be damned so I could save a few bucks. ;)
 

ybnormal

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dude, it'll be built into my work-from-home desk... lol

also, that's not a code violation, but having 20A receptacles is one in this case considering that, for starters, the desk's power comes in on 14awg. it's a fancy "standing desk", and i'm tapping into that power so that the desk has only a single cord coming to it.
never said anything about code violation. just said "not a good idea". and I also understood it was your home desk ("i just picked up four red EHD 50-20R receptacles (8300-R) because red looks cool. i'm putting them in my desk as like a flush-mount, built-in power strip basically."). still not a good idea imho. you start putting them in to save a few bucks here and there, and before you know it, something gets re-purposed, and then re-purposed again....what's the harm in putting them elsewhere....:dunno:... but I've seen bad results happen from situations like this even if originally intended to be used like your setup. do as you please and good luck.
 
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pizza

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it's just a power receptacle used in an off-label residential application. it doesn't need downstream control like radioactive material. if someone wants to take my desk apart and use parts somewhere where life-critical equipment exists, may god help him.

i get what you're saying, but i'm not some dipshit handyman working at a hospital or something, lol.
 
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pizza

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i'm not some dipshit handyman working at a hospital or something
by this i mean i don't think there is a risk of anyone ever plugging critical equipment into my stupid standing desk and thinking they're going to get automatic backup power.
 

mm08822

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Here the Baskin-Robbin's 35 flavors of skepticles.........chrome-extension://efaidnbmnnnibpcajpcglclefindmkaj/https://leviton.com/content/dam/leviton/commercial-industrial/product_documents/brochure/Straight%20Blade%20Receptacle%20Catalog%20Q-1101H.pdf

Stay with commercial spec grade and you'll fine.

Otherwise, it's simpler to shred $$$$
 

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Lassen Forge

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We had red outlets in the house we grew up in, they were on our single-fused 20A circuits (like for the kitchen AC unit, or to run dad's one horse "wrist breaker" drill in the garage)... of course, this was back in the 1950's and 60's...

I might be misremembering, but IIRC hospital grade were also (relatively) explosion proof, as they were designed to run in atmospheres with the possibility of flammable anesthesia gas and O2 nearby.
 

Sumboodie

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red might look cool but it's generally used to indicate an Emergency Power outlet.

I would really not advise you do that. some people could plug medical devices into those without actually checking to see if they really were an EP outlet. and when the power does fail..... just not a good idea.

working in IT in a health setting for the last 15 years, I seen all kinds of things while dealing with infrastructure.
Where I grew up, red outlet meant 240v. No idea why they used regular outlets, but was very common in the 50s-70s.

I learned this the hard way plugged in the ancient little Sears compressor and boy did that thing have some giddy up!
 

Stuart in MN

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Before this gets way too off topic, note that the OP is not asking about if they are better, or if they're code compliant, or if he should use 15amp or 20 amp receptacles - he's asking about the differences in pricing he's found.

I'm familiar with spec grade receptacles but never had to specify hospital grade, so I don't have a feel for what they should cost. My only thought is the less expensive ones you found may or may not be authentic...there are a lot of counterfeit things on the market these days.
 

Firebrick43

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I wonder if the "hospital grade" ones are any better or just the ones that they chose to pay for testing/certification on
The have thicker/stronger tabs that engage the plug prongs and hold their spring tension longer.

The do have higher pull out force as cyberdyke mention, plus when things are left plugged in. Not a big deal in our house as it’s all heated tile floors so the vacuuming is a cordless Dyson.

That is an odd price? In 2017 when I bought mine they were 25$+ per outlet if bought from Menards. I waited patiently and bought ones off eBay around 4 dollars a piece if I recall correctly

I wonder if I will come out to my garage and someone with their oxygen machine will be plugged into the red outlets in the red stripe?

full
 

BrandonV

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I've used one or two hospital grade receptacles usually where stuff is getting plugged in/out daily.

One of those things I wouldn't spec for the whole house considering some people never even touch certain receptacles.
 
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SlappyWhite

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As for TR, it is a local code thing and I am sure someone here can comment on the OP's local requirements. Replacing (not adding or new build) a receptacle, does it technically require TR or not in residential? Here for example code requires TR receptacles be used when replacing an existing receptacle in a location that would require TR for a new build (so most of the house). It may also be the reason for a price drop as these don't sell in the same volume anymore?

I specifically ran into this a while ago not paying attention at the store and picking up commercial grade ones for a job and then realizing they were not TR and they could not be used... (I took them back).

As for TR or not?? I am just asking about codes not preference. Depending on the situation the OP may (or may not) have to follow new codes sooner or later... (not for the desk).
 

AA/FC

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Hospital grade receptacles are annoying in a residential application. The pull-out tension (which is one of the tests) is way too high. Mama wont like them when she's vaccumming.
CD
I have 20 amp receptacle circuits in my garage for running power tools and such.... One of the receptacles that I use to plug in the block heater when I bring my diesel work truck home (during the winter) was getting to the point where it wouldn't hold the plug any more. I would plug in the cord, and it would basically fall right back out. I decided to buy the best quality receptacle that I could get for that location.... I did some quick research and stumbled upon "Hospital Grade" outlets. I read the tech specs for these outlets and it mentioned having very tight pin fitment. Perfect, that's exactly what I need! My local Home Depot does not stock these but I was able to order them from their website. Once I installed them I was VERY disappointed at how loose fitting the plug was. It wasn't much better than the cheap .69 cent contractor grade outlets, if at all. And these are Leviton, not some cheap no-name outlets like you can get on Amazon. I found the commercial grade Legrand outlets from Menards have a MUCH tighter pin fitment than the Leviton hospital grade. I'm sure some manufactures make decent hospital grade outlets but if you buy them, don't buy Leviton from Home Depot.
 

AA/FC

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Just paint it....

1715706505745.png
Exactly!

Just like when you're converting your 1972 Mercury Marquis 4-door sedan into a 2-door pickup truck, you just cover the rear door handles with body filler. lolol

The video should start at the right spot to see the rear door handle disappear. lol

 
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American Locomotive

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I can't speak as to why the Legrand Hospital grade outlets are cheaper than Leviton. But I will say I have yet to be impressed by any recent Legrand product I've purchased. They all seem pretty cheaply built compared to Leviton.
 

ybnormal

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I've used one or two hospital grade receptacles usually where stuff is getting plugged in/out daily.

One of those things I wouldn't spec for the whole house considering some people never even touch certain receptacles.
exactly. I worked in a hospital 30 yrs ago in Maintenance, working in tandem with the Electrical Dept maintenance techs. they were replacing multiple outlets in patient rooms throughout the facility (about 3000 outlets iirc) at the time (non-EP and not red) because someone had installed cheaper outlets that wore out in less than a year.
 

ybnormal

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Exactly!

Just like when you're converting your 1972 Mercury Marquis 4-door sedan into a 2-door pickup truck, you just cover the rear door handles with body filler. lolol

The video should start at the right spot to see the rear door handle disappear. lol

calls himself teh "Bob Ross of Body Butchering", just happy little mistakes :ROFLMAO:
 

Bert_

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I get wanting a decent receptacle, but it would be hard for me to bite at that price point.

I did a bunch of work in a school a few years ago and saved all the old receptacles. They are Hubble from the '60s and still in great shape. I wanted brown in my house so I used them there. Very happy with them
 

PCustoms

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The real pro tip
It saves a ton of time, and as a bonus it makes them all child safe.


I'm over here thinking about that time I wanted a grey outlet to match something and had to do a double take at the price. Light almond it is.
 
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Norcal

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We had red outlets in the house we grew up in, they were on our single-fused 20A circuits (like for the kitchen AC unit, or to run dad's one horse "wrist breaker" drill in the garage)... of course, this was back in the 1950's and 60's...

I might be misremembering, but IIRC hospital grade were also (relatively) explosion proof, as they were designed to run in atmospheres with the possibility of flammable anesthesia gas and O2 nearby.
Hazardous locations are different then what hospital grade can handle, I have a couple of the haz location models & they are mini pin & sleeve with cast iron back boxes.


As to complaints about blade tension health care facilities are required to perform annual tension tests, 4 ounces minimum (not all that much) I used to have to do them & they are a PITA, mostly paperwork, but the grounding prongs fail first. The $20 Hubbell HG were great, $10 Leviton HG were also good, but the $6-7 Hubbell HG not as well. The only reason the 1960's Eagle backstab only receptacles failed was they failed the tension test on the grounding prongs.
 

AA/FC

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T
I can't speak as to why the Legrand Hospital grade outlets are cheaper than Leviton. But I will say I have yet to be impressed by any recent Legrand product I've purchased. They all seem pretty cheaply built compared to Leviton.
The Legrand commercial grade stuff has been pretty good for me, lately.

I use to be a "Leviton guy" but lately there stuff hasn't impressed me. At all....

Exact opposite of your personal experience. Weird. lol.
 

Rusted Nut

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Just to add to the confusion, there’s also hospital grade MC cable, something to do with grounding; has a green strip on it.
 
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