$50,000 Budget – Start a garage

[Jimi]

Hello all. I have been on this site for years admiring all the little tight workshops and all the way up to the mega-palaces. I am now ready to begin my project and am hoping for some advice.

I am working with a $50K budget. I would like to have a 2 car garage with a workshop. (Deep enough to have the car in and still pull the motor.) A 30’x40’ is what I’d like to have. I am hoping to get opinions from you all and the approx. amounts to complete the following tasks, and at the very least, have an enclosed structure completed. (Drywall, electrical, plumbing, etc.is my least worry now. I can do that later.)

I’m sure questions like this may have been asked in the past, but searching through posts has proven to be more time wasting for me since I get caught up in all the other stuff. Can I get some cost estimates and/or suggestions to get me headed in the right direction?

How much should I expect to spend if I contract out each of the following?

1. Well
2. Septic
3. Concrete
4. Structure (30’x40’, steel or stick)

As I already mentioned, my goal is to get as much garage as possible on that budget. Space is not limited for me in that section of my yard. I considered a 30’x50’, but I think I may be pushing my budget too tight. Any suggestions?

Thank you,
Jimi

 

[Gary S]

You don't mention where you live. If you live in a blue state, you likely have lots of expensive paperwork you need to take care of first before anything can be done. If you live in a red state, you likely can get 'er done as soon as you pick up the permit.
Consider doing the work yourself. You can fit your budget a lot easier that way. I built my garage about the size you are looking at. I did all the work myself. My cost ran around $10k. I live in a red state where paperwork doesn't need to be done. My money went into a building instead of into paperwork.
If you don't have to spend a lot on wasted paperwork up front, and you do the work yourself, you should have a lot of your $50k left in your pocket and have the building you want. That way, you could have 4 buildings that size and still meet your budget.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

As I already mentioned, my goal is to get as much garage as possible on that budget. Space is not limited for me in that section of my yard. I considered a 30’x50’, but I think I may be pushing my budget too tight. Any suggestions?

You dont mention skill level or the reason you need/want it contraced it out...why I ask is I built a 30x50 myself for 1/2 that figure...I was on a 30k budget...still under budget and installing sheetrock and insulation now....pennies are getting tighter, but I splurged on many items along the way. Only things I "contracted out" was the actual forming & pouring of the concrete...I did re-bar myself. 600 bucks for a crane to set trusses, and 200 bucks for a carpenter to come out with his brake to bend/install the aluminum fasica trim. Minus that this has been 100% DIY.
So If you gave me 50k, I would have built & semi finished a 30x50 garage and bought a new truck.

For the record...I live in a Purple state.

 

[bgarrett]

$50,000 Rich guys
I paid $9000 for concrete, $4000 for dirt and bulldozer work
the steel frame was an old Midwest Diary truck repair shop that cost me $3500
the roof was $4000
the door and opener was $1000
I recycled materials for the walls
Its 40X100X14

 

[Kevin C]

If you live in a blue state, you likely have lots of expensive paperwork you need to take care of first before anything can be done. If you live in a red state, you likely can get 'er done as soon as you pick up the permit.

I'm in a blue state that considered pretty progressive. My total permit costs were $1400. Paperwork was pretty straightforward. This was for a residential 24 x 26. I'm sure commercial is a different story.

 

[Jimi]

I live in Maryland. As blue as they come. They take and take and still find ways to give out more than they take in. I guess some paperwork numbers will factor in for sure.

My reason for needing the contractor work is pretty simple. Herniated a disc in my back this past Spring. If I overdue it, which I usually do, it puts me down for a week or so. Will be another year before I can get it fixed most likely.

I'm not a rich guy. I just lost my Father a few weeks ago and he surprisingly left me some money. I figured I could build a nice shop finally and thank him for it every day I'm in there the remainder of my life.

I am undecided on having a steel or stick building. I'd love to do concrete block with vinyl siding to match my home, but I still have not begun to narrow down material yet. Size does matter. So numbers are my factors to start with I think. Very promising comments so far though. Thanks!

 

[Notch1988]

Where you live makes a big difference. Some guys talk about building a shop for $10K all in... just my building package for my 24x30 cost $12K. My entire build was contracted out and it was just over $40K to be completed on the outside. Inside is bare and I'm finishing that. Electrical alone will be close to $2K just for supplies.

 

[NHBandit]

I'm getting ready to have a 30x40x12 built myself. Barns.com quoted me about $9500 for the building and that included delivery AND building it. 2k extra for insulation, 2k for 2 10x10 overhead doors. I have a builder who's crunching numbers but he's fairly sure he can do it cheaper. Concrete I'm not sure yet. Doing my own electrical. Permit here in Tennessee is 50 bucks... Total, no silly environmental impact study, wetlands hearing, or any other "politically correct" garbage that's only purpose is to put money in someones pocket. I'm shooting for a total cost of around 20k. I agree with Dave. If I had an extra 50k I'd have my garage AND a new truck.

 

[Alaric.H]

http://shedsunlimited.net/prefab-attic-one-two-and-three-car-garages.html

 

[rbonitz]

...

I'm not a rich guy. I just lost my Father a few weeks ago and he surprisingly left me some money. I figured I could build a nice shop finally and thank him for it every day I'm in there the remainder of my life.

:

Sorry for your loss - I keep my fathers aincient tools around for the same reason. I can afford newer, better stuff, but I feel like he's with me when I drill something with his pre-historic drill press.

 

[Matt M PA]

Similar to what Alaric.H posted...I'd recommend mysheds.net. They built my 32x26 in two days. The walls, etc were pre-built. I had to have the cement done prior.

At least here in PA, the regulations for a detached building under 1000 sq ft were pretty relaxed.

You can see my garage being built somewhere on their site and in their catalog. I could not give a stronger endorsement. Great folks that did a great job!

EDIT: At the top of this page is a finished picture and at the bottom of this page a series of "under contruction" pictures of my garage. http://www.mysheds.net/build-on-site-garages.asp

I was working on a project in my garage this morning...and using some of my late Father's tools. It was like he was with me. He's gone almost 4 years and I still miss him every day.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

I live in Maryland. As blue as they come. They take and take and still find ways to give out more than they take in. I guess some paperwork numbers will factor in for sure.

My reason for needing the contractor work is pretty simple. Herniated a disc in my back this past Spring. If I overdue it, which I usually do, it puts me down for a week or so. Will be another year before I can get it fixed most likely.

I'm not a rich guy. I just lost my Father a few weeks ago and he surprisingly left me some money. I figured I could build a nice shop finally and thank him for it every day I'm in there the remainder of my life.

I am undecided on having a steel or stick building. I'd love to do concrete block with vinyl siding to match my home, but I still have not begun to narrow down material yet. Size does matter. So numbers are my factors to start with I think. Very promising comments so far though. Thanks!

I'm very sorry for your loss.

I like your size. I stick built mine with 2X6 exterior construction and 13' ceiling (blocked up with split face block blocks above the poured floor and 12' wall studs above that. I'd do it the same way over and over and over again.

Mine has vinyl on 3 sides and brick in front, but vinyl on all 4 sides would be cheaper. I went with t1-11 siding inside rather than drywall, up to 8-feet and then used #2 metal above that and for the ceiling. Love that too. The metal ceiling reflects the **** out of the light from 22 4' T-8 fixtures.

Two words for you my man.

"Floor drains"

Good Luck!

Phil

 

[Al Bundy]

Are you going to use a floating slab or a foundation? Can you tie into the well for your house? Why do you need a septic system? Are you going to heat it? Lots of unanswered questions to try and estimate your costs. You need to figure out exactly what you want first.

My 30 x 40 was over $40K. Yes I'm in a blue state, but that has nothing to do with it. Permits were $150. And no I didn't hire a contractor, though I did hire a couple guys to help me with some of the bull work. I have water, heat and electricity. No bathroom.

 

[Toomanytools?]

I will just give some facts from where I'm at Wa state. I have priced several pole buliding in the 40x60x16 range on a level site with concrete poured but nothing else. Price will come in around $16-$21/ square foot, that can vary with amount of doors and windows and whatever. My plan had 3 garage doors 14x14, one man door, waiscott on three sides outside and the basic 3-6" pole building insulation.
I don't see that you listed the building height? For me I think anything under 12' eve height I would go stick frame makes it easier to insulate and cost between pole and stick are close in that height for same features. Not sure where metal framed building comes in cost wise they seem to be on par with the pole building maybe a bit more$$, I don't care for the lost space with the angle post.
Why the well and septic? If this is near your home you can tap in for water, and septic can run $5000-$10000 if this is on a small lot with one septic already you might not be allowed another.
Think your best bet is call around and get some bids, your 30x40 slab is about 18.5 yards @5" thick at $125/yd and $1.00 for flat work your looking at about $3500. That doesn't include any dirt work or gravel or vapor barrier or if the site is hard to get to so $5000 might be a better number. It's hard to give numbers for someone across the map, in my opion I think a 30x40x12 is doable for 50K with insulation, basic electrical and rock. I think the well and septic with permits is going to push you over. Good luck.

 

[kj_mustang]

You mention well and septic. If you are building on a separate piece of property from your house, then those two items can be quite expensive. Deep drilled wells are priced by the foot, expect anywhere in the $7,000 - $15,000 range. Septic system prices can vary heavily by the type and size of system mandated by the local regulatory authority that issues the permit. Could be anywhere in the $3,000 - $15,000 range.

 

[kerr]

Build it bigger , taller than you think you will ever need . Trust me , no one wishes they had a smaller shop.

Kerr

 

[malibu101]

I too am wondering about the sewer and septic needs?
Hey, I'd love to have a place to piss in the garage too. But for the price of well and septic i think I'd just plant a couple of hedges outside the man door of the shop.

I think I remember reading on the internet at sometime that having water, septic, and heat in a garage can cause zoning issues in some areas due to the fact that someone could then occupy/live in the structure. But I don't know.

 

[mikeyr]

I am in Calif. one of the most expensive states, my 24x40 (odd size but its what the city let me build) cost me $55k finished. That is wired with 100amp power, lots of plugs, ethernet near each plug, cable for tv in each corner, insulated, drywalled, 9ft. walls, scissor trusses so I have a 13ft. in the center and it looks great, skylights (required by city for some "green" energy savings, but I really like them) and heat. Quote for slab and building but bare walls with 100amp panel but minimal wiring inside was $34k.

Front half is 20deepx24wide for the cars and back half is same size for workshop, its a long narrow garage and I love it.

 

[bigbotti]

Depending on finishes To your structure like Windows doors siding roofing and what kind of garage doors you Choose you might go over Budget. I'm in the middle of my 30x40 garage with 13' ceilings and a loft space above and a 8x18 mudroom off my house and I'm over 50k

 

[gpalmer77]

I'm building right now, here is my budget for a self build 22x24 with a gambrel roof, half attic, half high bay with storage above, in the south Suburbs of Chicago (roughly priced):

Variance, permit, architect plans etc = $1100
Concrete (22x24 slab with 42" trench footing) = $9500 by contractor
Insulation and Pex under the slab = $800 by self
Steel beam and posts = $900 not delivered, self install
Lumber (2x6 construction) and sheet goods (all 1/2" plywood, no OSB, 3/4" TG ply attic floors) = $4200 delivered
Windows (Andersen PVC double hung) = (8) x $195 contractor pricing
Entry door (fiberglass Thermatru) = $400 contractor pricing
Garage Doors = (2) x 9x8 doors, insulated, one a high lift = $2400 for both, no openers, installed (priced as if I'm a local builder)
Roof (gambrel, shingles, by a relative in the trade) = $2000
Siding (James Hardie pre-finished) = $1500
Trim (Azek) = $800-1000?
Ancillaries (Tyvek, flashing tape, nails, screws, trailer rental etc) = $1000

 

[NHBandit]

I am also curious about the well & septic. Are you building this in the middle of the woods ? Those 2 things are going to eat up alot of money. Are you not close enough to your house to tie into the systems you already have ? As I said earlier I am looking at having my 30x40 all done for 20k or so but it's going to be 50' from my house and just my personal hobby shop so I have no need for plumbing. Is this a commercial building you're wanting to put on an undeveloped lot ?

 

[Jimi]

I have attached a satellite overlay of my plat. My desired site location is across the creek from my house. So I don't think I can tie into my home well. Septic is not needed really. But I figured having running water and a drain required it.

Are you going to use a floating slab or a foundation? Can you tie into the well for your house? Why do you need a septic system? Are you going to heat it? Lots of unanswered questions to try and estimate your costs. You need to figure out exacItly what you want first.

I am planning on a slab. I do intend to heat it. I will use pex tubing for radiant heat in conjunction with another heat source.

I don't see that you listed the building height? For me I think anything under 12' eve height I would go stick frame makes it easier to insulate and cost between pole and stick are close in that height for same features. Not sure where metal framed building comes in cost wise they seem to be on par with the pole building maybe a bit more$$,

12' is my aim. I'd like to stack two cars with a 4 post lift like I've seen others do. But of course I can come down a bit and have a vaulted section if needed.

Depending on finishes To your structure like Windows doors siding roofing and what kind of garage doors you Choose you might go over Budget.

If I go 30x40, I want two doors. 30x50, three. The work area would have a single door entrance and three windows.


My biggest issue at the moment is crossing the creek. I am working with an excavator right now to have the driveway and grading done. I'll need to prove access to the site in order to gain the permit. But once the driveway is in... I'll be ready to go.

 

[Blk88GT]

A golf cart would be cheaper than a septic field

 

[ddawg16]

I bet 400' of water pipe will be a lot cheaper than digging a well....

Is the garage location above or below the elevation of your current septic?

At a min....I would build it without water or septic....but maybe put the pipes in for future use...

Like the others have said...go as big as you can. You can always install a rain barrel if you think you need a little water.

 

[Jimi]

I bet 400' of water pipe will be a lot cheaper than digging a well....

Is the garage location above or below the elevation of your current septic?

At a min....I would build it without water or septic....but maybe put the pipes in for future use...

Like the others have said...go as big as you can. You can always install a rain barrel if you think you need a little water.

You may have a great point there. Put the pipes in and possibly drill later. The idea right now is to get it built. Just because I throw pex in the slab doesn't mean I have to have heat pumping out right then too. That can come later. Thanks for the suggestion!

 

[Jimi]

A golf cart would be cheaper than a septic field

Oh yes, I agree! My wife thinks I just want a golf cart to be lazy though. I could always drive the cart to the backyard and **** in it like the dog.

 

[amolaver]

i'm not sure where in MD you are, but my steel 40x60x16 is finally standing and JUST got power hooked up. building was around $17K including insulated walls and roof, 3 14x14 roll up doors, one man door, 1' soffit. it appears to me to be a very well designed structure and the roofing/siding have a nice finish. the concrete was about the same, but i needed a TON of it as grade sloped pretty severely at the site and the footer had to go down to natural grade; at one end of the building, the footer is about 8' tall. its also 6" slab. total was around 80yds. electrical i got hooked up with a friend's electrician, so it was inexpensive. because i got a 'friend' deal, i won't post my cost, but i HIGHLY recommend McLean Electric Co - www.mcleanelectricco.com/ if you're anywhere near NoVA - I'm in PG county.

excavation / site prep work was around $2500 but that of course will vary - i needed a couple hundred yards of earth moved around.

the bad news... getting power to the building...huge PITA. around $3500 for power company to trench/run from the transformer to the building a whopping 150 feet (200amp service). total screwing, but they wouldn't let me do it - said anything on their side of the meter, they don't allow customers to touch (this is Pepco). i had my electrician handle the separate electric permit and it was STILL a ridiculous runaround. actually, the permit was no problem. the power company initially refused to accept it because they claimed it didn't match the work being done. its a long, ridiculous story, but my electrician eventually sorted it out. getting my building permit was literally a year long project. i did it myself and some of the delay was on me, but LOTS was stuck in the bureaucracy, and this was with an MD engineer-stamped design. total circus act. there were some helpful people within the permit office along the way, but also some real clowns. problem is that because it is a serial process (from one specialty to the next) any one can really hold up progress.

i'm about to start wiring and that ain't no bargain. you price out materials and you understand why an electrician can be pricey. just EMT/fittings/wire for my lighting/lift/compressor/and a couple of 120v outlet circuits will be around $1500. that doesn't include compressor/lift disconnects or outlets themselves. have about $1200 in fixtures/bulbs waiting to go up. also had to buy scaffolding (~$600 - just missed out on a manlift at auction that went for $1K!), EMT benders, stuff to hang lights (eye bolts/chain/caddy hangers), etc.

i was going to put up the building myself, but the more i researched it, the worse an idea it seemed. eventually i contacted the company that sold me the building and they recommended someone who i had put it up. it was around $7500, but IMO, worth every penny. they spent almost a full day measuring, trimming the slab, sinking new anchor bolts because the concrete people had put them in the wrong place (and cutting off the wrong ones - having zero background in reading structural drawings, i didn't notice until they were long gone). crew of 3 had it complete in 5 working days.

i've still got probably $1500 in stone i need to bring in to make up the driveway, but adding it up, i've got about $55K into it at this point, and figure another $10K for 'big' items - lift, compressor, furnace/AC install (got material as freebies - thanks dad!) and a big @ss new toolbox.

ahm

 

[Jimi]

Thanks amolaver. Great info. What was the name of the company that built your building? I live in Washington County near Harpers Ferry. I would expect a little less bureaucracy here than in PG.

It would appear that this budget I've set for myself is well within reason. Just have to not pay $5 for a $2 item. I think I'll stick with my original idea and shoot for the 30x50. Three bay doors and 12' high. I'll strike the water and septic since that's just a waste from what I gather.

My site location does have a slight grade to it. Nothing too severe apparently since my grading guy says no problem. Plenty of room to move dirt around. (Attaching a pic of that corner of the yard.) I will orient the shop on a 45 degree angle facing both the house and the pond. Should be a nice view.

 

[mtkst19]

my home 40x60 garage does not have running water. i keep a bucket outside that collects rain water and wash hands in that. The toilet is plumbed into a septic though, yet no running water. i dump water in the commode to flush if i have to. Yet mostly i go outside and piss.

ideally, id like to setup a cistern and collect rain water. pump that into the building for washing hands/using bathroom and non potable uses. Even if i dont collect rain water, to truck in a tank full of water is pretty cheap.

insulate the hell out of it. My building is like 16 feet high but w/ dropped ceiling have 12 foot. It is well insulated. I have no real heat system aside from a 250k btu ready heater. I have gone into the shop after the blizzard and it was 10 degrees inside. 30 minutes of shoveling snow while heater ran and come back inside to it being 70 degrees. Most of the time i run heater for 10mins and rest of the night im working in a t shirt.

wiring, all my wiring is run in conduit surface mounted on the walls. I have outlets every 4 feet around the place on every wall and placed high enough up the wall to put benches underneath it without interfering at normal working height. the lights are dropped off the ceiling via chains. i have the conduit and outlets run to the ceiling. from there i have extension cords coming out of the 4 bulb t8's to plug into the outlets. this makes it easy to move lights if need be. You can never have enough outlets.

only mistake i can ***** about-- i didnt run enough 220 lines when i 1st did the wiring. i never anticipated buying as much equipment. figured i just needed it for welder and compressor. then i found a band saw, tire machine, want to install a lift, rearranged the garage to where the weld station is moved etc etc. Good thing about running the conduit/wiring surface mount is it is easy to make changes.

hope some of these ideals help.

 

[camjeep3]

i had a pole barn quoted to be built for around 50k. 3 man doors and 3 roll ups, insulated and a shed off the side 30x60, had some other stuff too.

 

[dandan111]

That's a real pretty lot to build on.

 

[e-tek]

Mine has vinyl on 3 sides and brick in front, but vinyl on all 4 sides would be cheaper. I went with t1-11 siding inside rather than drywall, up to 8-feet and then used #2 metal above that and for the ceiling. Love that too. The metal ceiling reflects the **** out of the light from 22 4' T-8 fixtures.

^^WE NEED PHOTO's OF this one!!

Two words for you my man.
"Floor drains"

Not necessarily. Although sometimes I 'think" I would like to have a floor drain, I can't see when I would use them in my (any) shop. Now in an attached garage where we park snowy cars - yes.

Build it bigger , taller than you think you will ever need . Trust me , no one wishes they had a smaller shop.

Kerr

+100!

i had a pole barn quoted to be built for around 50k. 3 man doors and 3 roll ups, insulated and a shed off the side 30x60, had some other stuff too.

That sounds reasonable.

Mine is 24x40x11. Hired everything out because I wanted it DONE and done right. $30K included the slab and a finished, insulated, drywalled building, all electrical and 2 - 16x9 OH doors with openers.

Only thing I miss sometimes is floor heat.

Good luck on your build - there's no better feeling.

 

[amolaver]

i got the building from premier building systems (http://www.premierbuildings.com/). salesman was trevor greene - very helpful. he put me in touch with flowers construction, who put up the building. PM me and i'll send you flower's phone number - he doesn't have a web site.

ahm

 

[Chevy72pu]

Your idea of 30 x 40 is good. Mine is 24 x 40 and I could sure use those other 6 feet. My man door and 2 10 x 10 rollup doors are all on the west side of the building. In the summer I wish for a door on the east side to allow a breeze to pass through. Don't forget to include all your electrical, plumbing, internet, phone, tv cables etc in your budget. I went with a metal building and after 5 years of use am going to start in 2013 putting up OSB and peg board for interior walls. As it is now I have no where to hang shelves or anything else for that matter.

 

[coljar]

I would want to build closer to the house to use the existing sewer and potable water connection there. I contracted out a 30 x 40 pole building with steel trusses, an open ceiling,an additional back room, R-19 insulation, and concrete for a total of $22,000.

 

[Modifieddriver]

Beautiful acerage to build your shop.

Thanks amolaver. Great info. What was the name of the company that built your building? I live in Washington County near Harpers Ferry. I would expect a little less bureaucracy here than in PG.

It would appear that this budget I've set for myself is well within reason. Just have to not pay $5 for a $2 item. I think I'll stick with my original idea and shoot for the 30x50. Three bay doors and 12' high. I'll strike the water and septic since that's just a waste from what I gather.

My site location does have a slight grade to it. Nothing too severe apparently since my grading guy says no problem. Plenty of room to move dirt around. (Attaching a pic of that corner of the yard.) I will orient the shop on a 45 degree angle facing both the house and the pond. Should be a nice view.

 

[Glacial_Speed]

About the plumbing....have you considered one of those incinerating toilets? Like this www.incinolet.com Just a thought considering the distance.

And maybe some radiant floor heating and some solar hot water tubes for heating that radiant floor. Might even quality for some tax credits, you know, one of those evil blue state things.

Good luck.

 

[camarotoolman]

I can't believe with it cost to build something now a days! I'm glad I did what I did, way back when!

 

[Jimi]

only mistake i can ***** about-- i didnt run enough 220 lines when i 1st did the wiring.

Another great suggestion. I plan to use a bunch of heavy tools in my work area. Big items that require the 220. I will factor that into my design as well.

i got the building from premier building systems (http://www.premierbuildings.com/). salesman was trevor greene - very helpful. he put me in touch with flowers construction, who put up the building. PM me and i'll send you flower's phone number - he doesn't have a web site.

ahm

Thank you. I will check into them and contact you if I go that route.

Don't forget to include all your electrical, plumbing, internet, phone, tv cables etc in your budget.

I do telecommunications for a living. That's one thing I'm never short on is wiring!

I contracted out a 30 x 40 pole building with steel trusses, an open ceiling,an additional back room, R-19 insulation, and concrete for a total of $22,000.

Beautiful coljar! Exactly what I hope to achieve with my garage.

That's a real pretty lot to build on.

Beautiful acerage to build your shop.

Thank you. I love it. This is a new home for my family and I. I fell in love with the lot and was ready to buy it. Luckily the house turned out to be a great buy too.

 

[bobadame]

I built mine for just over 50K. It's 40'X64', 200 amp service, 2X6 on 16" walls, lots of insulation, 5/8" sheetrock, bathroom, forced air heat, 16'X64' unheated storage loft, 14'X64' side shed, gantry crane, 8'X40' mezzanine, redwood deck off the loft, 5 sun tubes through the roof, R-16 garage door, single and 3 phase wiring, 2 post lift. I did it all except pouring the concrete and taping and finishing the rock. I'm in a blue state.