pmason0
Well-known member
Nice shop, like the trailer too, I have a 36ft gooseneck for my car, thought about a bathroom but I just have a generator, A/C, and a bed as most if not all tracks I go to have bathrooms with showers.
50 by 60 design and layout... 48 by 68 build
- Thread starter stamanti
- Start date
Good weekend in the garage. Finally got around to putting up the double level of shelves in the work area that I had been putting off.
Hanging eight 20 foot lengths of unistrut takes a long time to do alone, but I got it done over the course of the weekend. The shelves added 160 square feet of storage space, and if anything make the space seem bigger. I'm very happy how they came out. During the install process I was skeptical that all my work would pay off, but I was wrong.
As always, the rolling ladder was invaluable making the shelf install safe and quick. With the shelves up now the ladder will get even more use.
I also rearranged my fab area a bit by rotating my cutting bench 90 degrees and making a walkway between the cutting bench and my weld bench. I'll work with this arrangement for awhile and see if I like it.
Hanging eight 20 foot lengths of unistrut takes a long time to do alone, but I got it done over the course of the weekend. The shelves added 160 square feet of storage space, and if anything make the space seem bigger. I'm very happy how they came out. During the install process I was skeptical that all my work would pay off, but I was wrong.
As always, the rolling ladder was invaluable making the shelf install safe and quick. With the shelves up now the ladder will get even more use.
I also rearranged my fab area a bit by rotating my cutting bench 90 degrees and making a walkway between the cutting bench and my weld bench. I'll work with this arrangement for awhile and see if I like it.
Attachments
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Sure is coming along nicely! Now it's the small things that will make a big difference in the ergonomics of the space.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Shop is looking fantastic. I'll bet it's nice to work in.
TooMuchHair
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 25, 2014
- Messages
- 64
Hey stamanti, check out the Mitsubishi or Fujitsu higher SEER mini-split units. I've been following a guy on the Expedition Portal that has a Mitsu on his rig for almost two years and another guy that has recently put a Fujitsu on his Mercedes Sprinter RV self build, they both are thrilled with the results. (They both are powering with solar/lithium/inverter set ups, but that's a whole different story) Logic controlled variable frequency motors with low start up amps and crazy efficiency plus ridiculously quiet! There isn't anything offered in the roof mount that can compare to the higher end mini-splits. Here is a sample I grabbed, but if you plan to use your trailer in the winter you would be wise to go even higher SEER rating for use to below zero. https://www.ecomfort.com/Mitsubishi-MZ-FH12NA/p56554.html
Nice shop by the way! I tried to sway you towards ICF months ago....still loving mine but yours is awesome too.
Nice shop by the way! I tried to sway you towards ICF months ago....still loving mine but yours is awesome too.
TooMuchHair
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 25, 2014
- Messages
- 64
Here is the original thread, LeishaShannon is the member I have communicated with. http://forum.expeditionportal.com/t...oning-Units-for-non-generator-powered-campers
I bought a new MB Sprinter Extended body last year and we are slowly doing a totally off grid RV conversion in my shop.
Another guy I've been talking with for quite awhile has a lot of info out there, if you are on Instagram check out "ourlibertyvan". He has been traveling North and South this winter putting his 30+SEER Fujitsu to the test, working beautifully with the exception of needing a little more power than he currently has in the extreme cold. No problem, just a few adjustments. But with the Honda Inverter generator you mentioned you will be good to go. A race trailer is a totally different goal than stealth camping in an urban setting for example. But I really encourage you to consider going this way. So many advantages. Most people that have had a roof mount, wish they had something different, or they are lying. Haha Keep me posted.
I bought a new MB Sprinter Extended body last year and we are slowly doing a totally off grid RV conversion in my shop.
Another guy I've been talking with for quite awhile has a lot of info out there, if you are on Instagram check out "ourlibertyvan". He has been traveling North and South this winter putting his 30+SEER Fujitsu to the test, working beautifully with the exception of needing a little more power than he currently has in the extreme cold. No problem, just a few adjustments. But with the Honda Inverter generator you mentioned you will be good to go. A race trailer is a totally different goal than stealth camping in an urban setting for example. But I really encourage you to consider going this way. So many advantages. Most people that have had a roof mount, wish they had something different, or they are lying. Haha Keep me posted.
TooMuchHair
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 25, 2014
- Messages
- 64
Looking at the forward facing interior photo of your trailer....is there an opportunity to maximize the space between your tailgate and the angled portion of the trailer by frenching in the perfect sized cavity to make it work? If you poke around on the links associated wiyh those Mitsubishi units on the eComfort site they have all of the engineering data available, everything from minimum clearances to the location of the CoG.
You could probably cheat the exit clearance a little bit due to using smooth materials and using a little racing experience (most siding contractors aren't thinking about air flow) in the design of your enclosure.
It sure would be cool. (pun)
Hell, you might have to lose that "bed" and custom build a goosenecker body with the rear corners designed just right. Just kidding.....maybe not. ha
You could probably cheat the exit clearance a little bit due to using smooth materials and using a little racing experience (most siding contractors aren't thinking about air flow) in the design of your enclosure.
It sure would be cool. (pun)
Hell, you might have to lose that "bed" and custom build a goosenecker body with the rear corners designed just right. Just kidding.....maybe not. ha
I saw ridge vents on the sections above the roof windows, do you have ridge vents on the roof? I don’t understand what they are for since foam was sprayed.
Love the finished product
I saw ridge vents on the sections above the roof windows, do you have ridge vents on the roof? I don’t understand what they are for since foam was sprayed.
Love the finished product
So the way I set up the contract with Morton was that they built the shell, and then I finished it out with my GC. Morton offers a interior package that is insualtion batts on the walls covered with steel panels, and then steel for the ceiling horizontally across the bottom cord of the trusses, and blown in cellulose insulation.
I wanted to keep the trusses exposed, and use spray foam, so I had them build just the shell, which they trimmed out the way they normally do, inclusive of those vents. Those areas were then sealed with plastic and insulated with close cell spray foam. Kind of a weird setup, but that is how it best worked out from a cost perspective.
rixtrix1
Well-known member
Congrats on the GRM win! As I'm going through the last 3 pages of your thread so very late tonight, I was wondering why it seemed so familiar, until I saw your announcement: I just saw the GRM announcement email a couple of days ago,. Shop is looking great, and that C5 is a great basis for a track car.
pmason0
Well-known member
Sorry, just realized your question. I would have to go and check on the brand of the AC unit, it is what was the standard option from Bravo Trailers when I had it built, believe its a 15,000 unit. Cools the whole trailer, it does ok, but it has a harder time when its above 90, but I also made the mistake of ordering a dark gray outside color so it heats up.
Yes I have the Honda EU3000is, super quite, haven't used it that much as I try and park near power.
Yes I have the Honda EU3000is, super quite, haven't used it that much as I try and park near power.
Thanks for the ac size info.
Spent some time on the vette last weekend. I have the front suspension cradle sorted, new brake rotors, wheel bearings, and flipped the upper control arm bushings to combat the bushing being hammered out from braking. I think Sam Strano mentioned this flip. Had to get a little creative pressing out the bushing, since the geometry of the arm wouldn't let me use my press.
Getting the brake caliper bracket released from the upright required some heat to release the factory threadlocker. Turned out to be a good job for my induction heater.
Also had the chance to spend a couple hours with ASAP drains getting a blockage cleared from the garage main drain to my distribution tank. When I entered the garage friday night the toilet was overflowing. Flood rim of the toilet is the lowest of any fixture in the garage, and the condensate from the boiler caused it to flood. All fixed now.
Spent some time on the vette last weekend. I have the front suspension cradle sorted, new brake rotors, wheel bearings, and flipped the upper control arm bushings to combat the bushing being hammered out from braking. I think Sam Strano mentioned this flip. Had to get a little creative pressing out the bushing, since the geometry of the arm wouldn't let me use my press.
Getting the brake caliper bracket released from the upright required some heat to release the factory threadlocker. Turned out to be a good job for my induction heater.
Also had the chance to spend a couple hours with ASAP drains getting a blockage cleared from the garage main drain to my distribution tank. When I entered the garage friday night the toilet was overflowing. Flood rim of the toilet is the lowest of any fixture in the garage, and the condensate from the boiler caused it to flood. All fixed now.
Attachments
OH_Varmntr
Well-known member
Nice, I remember demoing an induction heater. Used it on rear strut tower nuts up inside the fender. They’re nice to have!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
New wheels for the C5 came in. Forgestars from Strano Performance. 18x11. Deep concave look.
Spent last night degreasing the engine in preparation of engine work: valve springs and trunions, rod bolts, oil pump, oil pan baffle kit, C5R cam chain, and ATI balancer.
Spent last night degreasing the engine in preparation of engine work: valve springs and trunions, rod bolts, oil pump, oil pan baffle kit, C5R cam chain, and ATI balancer.
Attachments
Last edited:
So I have been cranking away on the vette, and not posting to GJ.
Had a few 1am nights in my garage and others getting the C5 sorted for the road course season. Somehow went through the entire car this winter after I purchased it in late fall. I didn't take the fuel tanks out, and I didn't entirely remove the dashboard, but everything else was touched and removed. Test day at Thompson identified a couple things that needed tweaking, and then a great weekend at NHMS with COMSCC proved that from here on out I just need to work on the nut behind the wheel.
During this time my garage has continued to evolve. Tuesday night I didn't have any pressing projects, so I cleaned up a bit. Then my awesome wife cleaned the floors for me yesterday, and the place looks good as new.
NHMS photos courtesy of James Ray.
Had a few 1am nights in my garage and others getting the C5 sorted for the road course season. Somehow went through the entire car this winter after I purchased it in late fall. I didn't take the fuel tanks out, and I didn't entirely remove the dashboard, but everything else was touched and removed. Test day at Thompson identified a couple things that needed tweaking, and then a great weekend at NHMS with COMSCC proved that from here on out I just need to work on the nut behind the wheel.
During this time my garage has continued to evolve. Tuesday night I didn't have any pressing projects, so I cleaned up a bit. Then my awesome wife cleaned the floors for me yesterday, and the place looks good as new.
NHMS photos courtesy of James Ray.
Attachments
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Shop looks awesome and great job on the Vette.
I'm jealous of your Vette. I have been wanting a C6 for several years now and just had the money saved up after the whole shop build and move last year but couldn't bring myself to pull the trigger. Ended up dumping the $30k that I had saved up on the mortgage. I figured it may take me a couple of years to build up my Vette fund again but by then maybe I'll have more time to play with one.
Keep on working on that nut behind the wheel.
I'm jealous of your Vette. I have been wanting a C6 for several years now and just had the money saved up after the whole shop build and move last year but couldn't bring myself to pull the trigger. Ended up dumping the $30k that I had saved up on the mortgage. I figured it may take me a couple of years to build up my Vette fund again but by then maybe I'll have more time to play with one.
Keep on working on that nut behind the wheel.
ned911
Well-known member
Looks like you are pulling the trailer with a single axle truck. How do you like it? I'm still on a open trailer but really want a 36-38' gooseneck with bathroom as you mentioned. I've got a 2004 GMC Duramax that I love - 20mph in town, 15mph with open trailer and no DEF.
Love the garage, gives me some inspiration.
Love the garage, gives me some inspiration.
This past weekend I spent Sunday doing some cleanup and maintenance in the garage.
Did an oil change on the BMW. Washed the M3, S4, and Roadglide, and took each for a brief ride. The stupid soft metal oil drain plug in the M3 stripped out while trying to remove it, causing me to wrench my back. Was able to hammer in a 1/4" hex into the rounded hole of the M6 hex, and get the thing out.
The M3's paint is shot, but it at least looks ok from 20 feet now. Washing the S4 made me realize how bad the M3's paint is.
S4's turbos are still not making any boost. I have a spare factory ECU that a swapped out just to see if maybe the APR tuned ecu was messed up, but that didn't change anything.
Backing the BMW over the scissor lift offset like it is worked better than the million point turn I have made before pulling on it forward. After getting it squared up, I laid down some tape on the outside edge of the wheels to hopefully make it easier next time.
Took the '57 to home depot to pick up some rolling wire shelves to get my riding gear up off the floor, and made a place to hang my leather jacket. Pretty happy with how that worked out.
Did an oil change on the BMW. Washed the M3, S4, and Roadglide, and took each for a brief ride. The stupid soft metal oil drain plug in the M3 stripped out while trying to remove it, causing me to wrench my back. Was able to hammer in a 1/4" hex into the rounded hole of the M6 hex, and get the thing out.
The M3's paint is shot, but it at least looks ok from 20 feet now. Washing the S4 made me realize how bad the M3's paint is.
S4's turbos are still not making any boost. I have a spare factory ECU that a swapped out just to see if maybe the APR tuned ecu was messed up, but that didn't change anything.
Backing the BMW over the scissor lift offset like it is worked better than the million point turn I have made before pulling on it forward. After getting it squared up, I laid down some tape on the outside edge of the wheels to hopefully make it easier next time.
Took the '57 to home depot to pick up some rolling wire shelves to get my riding gear up off the floor, and made a place to hang my leather jacket. Pretty happy with how that worked out.
Attachments
Maybe? I'm not sure this applies but on my sons turbo rig he went through some of the above to figure why he lost boost. The problem came down to the pipe going into the intercooler was cracked or broke and would loose most of the air/boost at that point. Fixed the pipe and all was good.
lg
no neat sig line
Lately I have been mostly working, not so much time to work in the garage on on the garage and surrounding area.
But I did finally see a stretch of days conducive to coating the mahogany railing around the garage with Cabot Australian Timber Oil. I used the same product on my porch a couple years ago and it has held up pretty well.
I also had my friend James bring in and spread about 200 yards of recycled gravel to fill in a low area off my driveway. This gives me a space to park the gooseneck trailer, the ability to turn the trailer around with my truck instead of my tractor, some extra parking spaces, and gives me the upper parking area back. The natural separation in the rock is about 12 feet wide. Eventually I will extend this gravel drive back further and gain access to more usable land on my property, and have a better spot to park my other trailers.
But I did finally see a stretch of days conducive to coating the mahogany railing around the garage with Cabot Australian Timber Oil. I used the same product on my porch a couple years ago and it has held up pretty well.
I also had my friend James bring in and spread about 200 yards of recycled gravel to fill in a low area off my driveway. This gives me a space to park the gooseneck trailer, the ability to turn the trailer around with my truck instead of my tractor, some extra parking spaces, and gives me the upper parking area back. The natural separation in the rock is about 12 feet wide. Eventually I will extend this gravel drive back further and gain access to more usable land on my property, and have a better spot to park my other trailers.
Attachments
rotortuner
Well-known member
Looking through your thread and I am planning to do a floor similar to yours, do you know about how many hours it took them to grind it out and polish with that two header machine?
rotortuner
Well-known member
OK thanks, that helps. 2 guys but only working with one machine?
Very nice building by the way. Mine is a pole building a little over 4k sqft, so looking at your layout has helped me some.
Very nice building by the way. Mine is a pole building a little over 4k sqft, so looking at your layout has helped me some.
sounds expensive....
rotortuner
Well-known member
Thanks, gives me a good idea on the time required per sqft. Looks like it turned out great.
bobbyjean
Well-known member
question-how are the roof "joists" or purlins attatched to trusses? garage looks great...that floor is awesome
I have been debating for about 3 years whether or not to put down parking spot lines. The parking area is trapezoidal, and everyone seems to come up with a different way to park when they visit my house. Some people park right at my front door, and others park Blocking my garage door preventing me from pulling in when i get home, some solutions make even less sense. Probably a stupid annoyance to any rational person, but it drives me crazy. It is also time consuming to direct people how to park when many people come over, because the most efficient arrangement is not obvious to crowd think.
I re-read the striper tool instructions and the amazon reviews to avoid any common pitfalls. I saw that i purchased this stuff in 2015 and it has been sitting in my attached garage for that long. Luckly the paint still worked.
I Chalked out the lines and then sprayed following the chalk. Looks passable. As this old tony says “pretty ok.”
I’ll be watching to see if people pay attention to the lines, and if i gave enough space. Went in the tighter side at 8’6” on center.
I re-read the striper tool instructions and the amazon reviews to avoid any common pitfalls. I saw that i purchased this stuff in 2015 and it has been sitting in my attached garage for that long. Luckly the paint still worked.
I Chalked out the lines and then sprayed following the chalk. Looks passable. As this old tony says “pretty ok.”
I’ll be watching to see if people pay attention to the lines, and if i gave enough space. Went in the tighter side at 8’6” on center.
Attachments
Not too much has changed in the garage since 2018. Minor reorganizations, and a few new tools.
One recent project on the garage itself was a solution for my welder extension cord. I wanted an extension cord reel that would handle 220 volts and at least 30 amps. The options on the market were few and expensive. Since I already had a 50 foot cord I decided to make an overhead trolley to carry the cord off the ground. I used ATV tiedown straps, spring clips, unistrut trolleys, and unistrut. Seems to be working well. 3 1/4" unistrut gives enough clearance for the unistrut trolley to roll under the fasteners holding it to the structure. 1 5/8" strut would need clamps around the exterior of the strut to work with the trolley. The spring clips allow easy release of the cord from the trolley if I need more reach laterally.
I left an extra trolley in the track if I want to hang something in the track down the road.
One recent project on the garage itself was a solution for my welder extension cord. I wanted an extension cord reel that would handle 220 volts and at least 30 amps. The options on the market were few and expensive. Since I already had a 50 foot cord I decided to make an overhead trolley to carry the cord off the ground. I used ATV tiedown straps, spring clips, unistrut trolleys, and unistrut. Seems to be working well. 3 1/4" unistrut gives enough clearance for the unistrut trolley to roll under the fasteners holding it to the structure. 1 5/8" strut would need clamps around the exterior of the strut to work with the trolley. The spring clips allow easy release of the cord from the trolley if I need more reach laterally.
I left an extra trolley in the track if I want to hang something in the track down the road.
Attachments
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice solution for the welding extension cord. I had extension cords in my last shop as my 50-amp welding outlets were limited to two and both at the same general location, one for each welder. I'm glad I added multiple welder outlets in my new shop to avoid the extension cord juggle. I like your solution better than having them strung out along the floor where you're trying to work.