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50amp DIY power strip

tarbellb

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I want to make a power strip for my 50amp service. Just like a common 120v but 240v and 50amps.

Thinking of 4"SQ boxes, tied together, with 8g wire. Two 6-50R and two L5-30R.

Run a short whip w a 6-50R to my 50amp plug.

Anybody done this or similar?
 
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johnre

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Did that once when my company took a lot of test and measurement equipment on a road show - we sometimes were surprised by inadequate 120 V circuits in the hotel conference rooms, and we had to break down some 240 V power ourselves.

If more than one item is to be plugged in, consider which way the receptacles are oriented so the cords don't interfere with one another. Sort of like spacing out and orienting 120 V receptacles so wall warts don't block one another.

Think through mounting it, and fasten it down well, as the insertion / removal forces can be pretty high. J-boxes are normally attached to the frame of a building; here they'll be on a strip. But if it's just to be a loose strip on the floor, do leave room to stand on it as you pull up on the plugs.
 
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tarbellb

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Definitely plan to fasten down the strip to the wall. The benefit of the strip will less plugging and unplugging, but still a good idea.

Orientation is a concern, same with location, both will be addressed.

@mike93lx what's the concern with the 5-30's, or did you mean 6-30?
 

mike93lx

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Definitely plan to fasten down the strip to the wall. The benefit of the strip will less plugging and unplugging, but still a good idea.

Orientation is a concern, same with location, both will be addressed.

@mike93lx what's the concern with the 5-30's, or did you mean 6-30?
My bad, mistype.

The concern is that you won't have the proper overcurrent protection for the receptacle and plug type. Plugging a 30a device into a 50a circuit.

What are you using that runs on a 5-30? I think I have only heard of an RV using a 30a 120v circuit.

You aren't using 5-30 for 240v connections, right?
 

jblnut

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I have 4 50a outlets mounted closet to each other in my shop for the welder, lathe, bandsaw and an open one. None are ever used at the same time so no big deal. Not sure how the electrician wired them but there are only the 4 boxes with plugs out there. Works great.

We’ve also made 10 or so boards with a mix of 50, 30 and 15 amp plugs for camping that we bring to our hunting ground so we can park wherever and just string the portable panels out. Gotta watch how many with AC plug in to each circuit of course but it works great and cuts down on the amount of extension cords. We have a small breaker panel on each board so we can still provide over current protection for each size plug.
 
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tarbellb

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I have 4 50a outlets mounted closet to each other in my shop for the welder, lathe, bandsaw and an open one. None are ever used at the same time so no big deal. Not sure how the electrician wired them but there are only the 4 boxes with plugs out there. Works great.

We’ve also made 10 or so boards with a mix of 50, 30 and 15 amp plugs for camping that we bring to our hunting ground so we can park wherever and just string the portable panels out. Gotta watch how many with AC plug in to each circuit of course but it works great and cuts down on the amount of extension cords. We have a small breaker panel on each board so we can still provide over current protection for each size plug.

Over current protection still needs to be addressed, how did you guys set up your breaker.
Any examples or photos?
 
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tarbellb

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If you are attaching it to the wall, why not just run them as a regular circuit?
That would require me to open up the walls again. Plus having the power strip on the exterior is a visual reminder that it's pulling off that single circuit.
 

jblnut

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Over current protection still needs to be addressed, how did you guys set up your breaker.
Any examples or photos?
No shop pics needed really. They go to a 50a breaker in the panel. All outlets are 6-50r's. Electrician asked what I was going to plug in and I said "Things with welder plugs on them" He said "Okay". It took the electrical inspector a few months to come after the work was done and everything was already sitting plugged in when the inspector came and he said nothing.

The panels we use for camping all have a 50a RV plug on the end of 6/3-8/1 cable and go to an 8 space Square D outdoor rated panel. Two 14-50r's, two TT-30r's and two duplex regular old 15a outlet sets. 50a breaker for each of the 50's, 30a breaker for the 30's and two 15a breakers for the 15's. Simple piece of marine 3/4" plywood with a set of feet made from treated 2x4's.
 
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American Locomotive

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The simplest way is to get a "panel mount circuit breaker". They sell them in double-pole varieties.

You can find them cheaper elsewhere, that's just an example. Just get a box that's deep enough, get a flat cover for the box, and drill the necessary holes to screw the breaker in and have the lever pass through.

Your 50A breaker will protect the 50A outlets, and then that will protect the 30s.
 
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tarbellb

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BIG thanks all, this by far the most productive electrical related thread I've had here. (typically the Nancy naysayers come in hot and just sour the reasonable responses)

Would a DIN mounted breaker be appropriate if properly protected?
 

mike93lx

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BIG thanks all, this by far the most productive electrical related thread I've had here. (typically the Nancy naysayers come in hot and just sour the reasonable responses)

Would a DIN mounted breaker be appropriate if properly protected?
That could work.

DIN rail breakers aren't common in the US outside of industrial, but it could make for a compact setup

Have you looked at the commercially available spider boxes yet? Either inspiration or maybe just to buy something already done
 

American Locomotive

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BIG thanks all, this by far the most productive electrical related thread I've had here. (typically the Nancy naysayers come in hot and just sour the reasonable responses)

Would a DIN mounted breaker be appropriate if properly protected?
Sure, but I'm not sure how common DIN breaker enclosures are in the U.S. You want your breaker to be accessible - can't be locked hidden inside a container.
 
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tarbellb

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I did look for some Spider Boxes locally, nothing used and wildly expensive new vs a DIY solution.

Plus I would laugh at myself for mounting one of those to the wall.
 

u3b3rg33k

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get back to me when it can count.
When Ai figures out how to do text in images, we are screwed
I want an image of a 3 phase adjustable trip breaker

AI: i got you. you said fthouree, right?

Sorry, what?
 

theoldwizard1

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That's going waaaay back, I haven't seen a PDP-11 in 50 years
I was an admin on a VAX 25 years ago. There were still a lot of PDP-11s around at that time.

Someone once said that from the late 70s through the early 90s, almost everything you purchased in the US went through some kind of machinery that was run by a PDP-11 ! (Exception is food bought directly from a farmer.)

Also, a couple of years ago, a casual acquaintance mentioned that there were DOZENS of VAX computers in his companies manufacturing facilities running key equipment. Used spare parts were still plentiful, but finding someone to diagnose and replace items was next to impossible (They had one retired DEC Field Service Engineer doing everything and he was well into his 60s.)
 

T444e

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Sure, but I'm not sure how common DIN breaker enclosures are in the U.S. You want your breaker to be accessible - can't be locked hidden inside a container.
In my experience, DIN breakers are very common in industrial controls. I've used them at home for certain applications, much easier for custom applications.
 
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tarbellb

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This is the route I'm likely going after digging in a bit further.
TONS of great options from simple breaker style to digital read out and limit setting. Plus enclosures that make it very clean and easy to mount.

I didn't turn up anything like @AffableCurmudgeon posted after a quick Google search?
 

ratflinger

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I was an admin on a VAX 25 years ago. There were still a lot of PDP-11s around at that time.

Someone once said that from the late 70s through the early 90s, almost everything you purchased in the US went through some kind of machinery that was run by a PDP-11 ! (Exception is food bought directly from a farmer.)

Also, a couple of years ago, a casual acquaintance mentioned that there were DOZENS of VAX computers in his companies manufacturing facilities running key equipment. Used spare parts were still plentiful, but finding someone to diagnose and replace items was next to impossible (They had one retired DEC Field Service Engineer doing everything and he was well into his 60s.)
Mainframes or the derivative microprocessors like the 11/73? I'd hate to own a factory still being driven by Vax's, talk about a waiting disaster. They were certainly excellent in their time, but that time is way past. Last 11/73 system I worked on was in the middle to late 90's.
 
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