56C motor bearings
- Thread starter woodgeek
- Start date
FSUwelder1212
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2013
- Messages
- 149
Not really, I grew up in an electric motor repair shop though and would suspect they are 6203s, although if your luck is anything like mine they are probably some queer size fafnir wide race. 
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Many motors they are listed right there on the tag. And that one is not so your probably SOL. Most 56c motors that I have replaced bearings in are 6205 on one side and 6203 on the other
This is a Powermatic 1150. Some of the other bearings have been Fafnir, at least I can cross reference those!Not really, I grew up in an electric motor repair shop though and would suspect they are 6203s, although if your luck is anything like mine they are probably some queer size fafnir wide race.
marinusdees
Well-known member
ALL bearings have a number stamped or? somewhere on the bearing. This calls out the inner and outer diameters. They may be open, sheilded, or sealed, Open up the motor (take off an end bell, usually the one opposite the shaft end) and, inspect the bearing for this number. Unless you can google the model number and access this . Be aware that it is not uncommon to use bearings of different sizes at opposite ends. Typically, the larger bearing at the shaft end. This is the end receiving the most grief (due to side loading by the belt).
marinusdees
Well-known member
Fafnir is a brand. Maybe obsolete. Doesn't call out the bearing. Bearings present day mostly are Korean, Japanese, or Chinese. I can't say anything bad about any of these. There may be an additional number or letter designating open, sealed, or shielded. In general, I would use sealed bearings.
Dagny
Well-known member
Well you need to take it apart anyway so might as well look. but if you buy 2 203 4 and 5 i bet you will have it.
Got the rear bearing out. I’m having a bear of a time getting the front pulley off. Someone over torqued the set screw and deformed the key, key way or both. I ordered a locking collar that I can clamp to the pulley and pull it off. No amount of leverage that I tried could get it the last 3/4” or so off.
Attachments
alfadan
Well-known member
Is it a zink pulley? Maybe just bust it off and get a new one.
NO!!
That pulley is on a Powermatic power tool. Unobtainium! You might find on on eBay, but they are no longer available from Powermatic.
BE CAREFUL!!
alfadan
Well-known member
Ah, I see now. Good call!
I got the pulley off. I bought a 1-1/4” locking collar and clamped it on the sleeve of the pulley. The locking collar slipped, even when tightened as much as possible. So, I tack welded each half of the collar to the pulley sleeve and used a bearing puller to remove the pulley from the bearing shaft. I ground away the tack welds, dressed it with a diamond file. Now I need to address the gunk and scoring inside the pulley sleeve.
marinusdees
Well-known member
Timken=spendy. Maybe worth it. I would have gone to my buddy who replaces lots of bearings. He repairs electric motors for a living. He stocks Korean made bearings to use in repair. Sealed. Given your use, yours may last a lifetime.
B_Bimmer
Well-known member
I have learned timken is always worth it.
well, when I rebuilt my makita power planer the giy asked if I wanted brand x or name brand. took brand x
put the planer all back together, and , you guessed it, the bearing deepest into the machine was noisy & rough. went back and asked for name brand. he gave it to me, but I still had to tear apart the tool again to replace it.
I just posted a thread on an unrelated topic, and I said Quality never hurt no one .... just my $0.02
I’ve learned that lesson the hard way. Rebuilding an alternator, I could pay $200 for Honda Oem bearings and Denso regulator or $40 for stuff made who-knows-where. I like to fix things once and be done—buy quality and cry once.
I don’t have a go to guy for parts. Amazon has Timken and a mishmash of made in China bearings. I could spend time on google and buy somewhere else but paying $20 for two Timken bearings is cheap peace of mind. I don’t buy from third party on Amazon, those can be fakes.
I’m rebuilding a 1980’s Rockwell 14” bandsaw. Just ordered $40 in Timken bearings.
I don’t have a go to guy for parts. Amazon has Timken and a mishmash of made in China bearings. I could spend time on google and buy somewhere else but paying $20 for two Timken bearings is cheap peace of mind. I don’t buy from third party on Amazon, those can be fakes.
I’m rebuilding a 1980’s Rockwell 14” bandsaw. Just ordered $40 in Timken bearings.