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5hp Briggs And Stratton

bannerd

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Joined
Nov 14, 2011
Messages
209
Location
Upstate NY
Hey all, I have a small air compressor that is made by Montgomery Ward. It wouldn't start when I first obtained it but after a new spark plug it took off on the first pull. The motor that is attached to it is a 5HP briggs and stratton. The carb lays on top of the petrol tank. I will get pictures if we need them.

After using it for awhile it wouldn't start a month later. Changed the oil in it, checked the plug and it was packed with this black soot. I noticed there was a heavy black soot on the muffler as well. I did use the air compressor hard that month (probably everyday) HVLP painting to running my little DA sander. I'm in the middle of rebuilding a Dodge Diesel 12v Cummins. I thought about converting it to electric but I can't. This thing is so dang handy when you have to go mobile. I just need to to run right.

Went to Walmart and grabbed a champion plug for it.. tossed it in the head and it fired right up. Has me scratching my head now. Oil level is good, no oil leaks. Carb issue maybe? Although it runs like a hot rod with a new plug.

I took the new plug right out when it ran for five minutes and it was black. Something isn't right. My wood chipper has a old 5hp on it and the plug was clean as could be.

Thanks!
 
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stratman977

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Jan 26, 2012
Messages
633
Location
Belle Vernon, PA
Its running too rich. If it has the suction type carb which I think it has it probably needs the diaphragm replaced or the auto choke isn't opening after it starts.

By the way that is my least favorite small engine carb to work on.
 
Last edited:

Wakefield

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Aug 26, 2010
Messages
5,132
Location
Arlington VA (but would like to get out to country
Made by Montgomery Ward so probably old enough to have an adjustable carburetor,sounds like adjusted too rich and loading up if the choke isn't staying partly closed. Does it lope and blow black gassy smelling smoke?

There were some lawnmower carbs with Automatic Choke that used to get to pulling fuel through what was supposed to be a vacuum passage for the choke that would cause rich running but I don't think that happened with the horizontal shaft engines
cure was a new diaphragm/tank gasket and a thin round washer and a little pipe that inserted into a tank/carb passage that came in a kit or something years ago
 

WWIIjeep

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May 30, 2012
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1,240
Location
Arizona
Its running too rich.

This ^^^

In addition to the causes stratman mentioned with the diaphragm and the choke, and as Wakefield said with the needle valve setting, a dirty or clogged air cleaner can cause a rich running condition.
 

G_P

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Joined
Jul 11, 2010
Messages
7,135
Location
Central CT
Those Briggs motors with the carb bolted directly to the top of the fuel tank are pretty simple. My pressure washer has one so they are still making that style of motor.

Clean out the air filter and make sure the diaphragm is in good shape. A rebuild kit for the carb should not be too expensive and will be easy to install.
 

stratman977

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Jan 26, 2012
Messages
633
Location
Belle Vernon, PA
Get the numbers off of the recoil shroud. Punch them in google and a number of parts suppliers with the exploded view should come up.
 

Hako86

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Jan 23, 2013
Messages
207
Location
Netherlands
Running too rich, or you need a hotter spark plug. What spark plug are you using? If the engine is a L-head, it should be a RJ19LM.
 
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theoldwizard1

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Feb 22, 2011
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43,114
Location
SE MI
You should upgrade that engine to a Genuine B&S Magnetron Electronic Ignition ! Best $20 I spent on eBay !
 

stratman977

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Jan 26, 2012
Messages
633
Location
Belle Vernon, PA
The only difference between the rj19lm and the j19lm is a resistor thats meant for supressing radio frequencies that come off of electronics. I'm not so sure that you would need that on a small engine. I doubt that changing the plug will solve the problem.
 

jaggedscars

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Joined
Jul 21, 2013
Messages
118
Location
MO
+1 on carb rebuild. Before dumping a lot into it, get the engine numbers (model, type and code) off of the pull starter housing. The first two digits on your code is the year the engine was made. I would get a compression check to make sure you definitely have a good engine to work with. Otherwise, stick with the J19LM (the resister type plugs are known to have issues) and a carb rebuild kit, possibly $20 bucks total for everything. You should have an adjustment screw for adjusting it leaner/richer just beside the fuel cap, like this photo.

dcp_6681-1a.jpg
 

bareass172

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Aug 5, 2012
Messages
817
Location
N'awlins
And just to state the obvious in case it's not, steer clear of running ethanol fuel in it once it's sorted. The ethanol will cause all sorts of problems on smaller motors, in addition to deteriorating the gaskets and such.
 
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