5HP Compressor on 120V, how is this possible?
- Thread starter freebo86
- Start date
Fair enough, thanks for the info guys. So what would you guys consider a deal for it?
From the local classifieds and me looking, the price ranges are all over the place for these even the small little compressors people are selling them for gold.
From the local classifieds and me looking, the price ranges are all over the place for these even the small little compressors people are selling them for gold.
nadogail
Well-known member
Cars used to be advertised with horsepower ratings in what we called Detroit horsepower.
We took those numbers with a lot of, not just a grain, salt.
As has been previously pointed out, a compressor you own is more useful than the compressor you are dreaming about.
We took those numbers with a lot of, not just a grain, salt.
As has been previously pointed out, a compressor you own is more useful than the compressor you are dreaming about.
9 or so years ago when I bought my first cnc plasma cutting table I bought a 30 gallon kobalt compressor which ran on 110. While that table was cutting the compressor would run non stop for hours on end and I had it for a couple years and it never did kick the bucket. For a cheap kobalt I was quite impressed. I sold it and moved onto bigger and better things but looking back Im still impressed with how well that compressor ran and I see kobalt and Campbell hausfeld in the same league. Im sure that compressor would do just fine.
milkovich
Well-known member
FWIW, I years ago I had a 115v oil less coleman powermate with "5 HP! 20GAL" in huge numbers on the side and I ran it ragged for about a decade. It ran an impact, ratchet, and air hammer with no problems. Unfortunately it never could run any kind of blaster or die grinder. I think my dad still has it and uses it to run nail guns.
The noise was terrible though.
The noise was terrible though.
My general Rule-of-Thumb for Used equipment price = ~50% of retail new equipment price.
Adjustment depending on overall condition of the used equipment, usually downward.
IMHO. YMMV too.
But I would be very careful buying a used air compressor. Not so much for the compressor side of things (motor + compressor), but for the air tank.
The steel on the air tank is supposed to have been designed and assembled (welded) 'properly' and is supposed to fail 'gracefully'. But there have been many-many-many times when an air tank fails suddenly and catastrophically (tank zips open and maybe also propels various metal pieces at high speeds). Worst case is death, slightly less worse is injury and property damage.
No, I am not making this up. Yes, people (recently) have died when an air tank ruptures and fails suddenly and catastrophically. Or been injured, sometimes rather severely (broken femur is rather severe IMHO).
CompressorPros.com
Well-known member
Air compressor manufacturers must use running HP instead of peak HP when advertising. 5HP at 115 or 120V simply is not possible. 2HP is as much as you are going to get. Always compare CFM, not HP when looking at compressors. 5.8 CFM is fairly normal for something that size, BelAire and CP make a couple 7.1 CFM portable units.
jcthorne
Well-known member
Before buying more compressor than you need, consider if you will really use or need many high demand air powered tools. High quality cordless electrics have mostly replaced and surpassed air tools for things like impacts, ratchets, grinders and the like.
I have a 30 year old Craftsman 5HP compressor (15CFM) that if and when it ever dies will be replaced by a MUCH smaller unit. Simply no need for that much air any more for sweeping and tire filling. And air jacks on my lift. I do not sand or paint.
I have a 30 year old Craftsman 5HP compressor (15CFM) that if and when it ever dies will be replaced by a MUCH smaller unit. Simply no need for that much air any more for sweeping and tire filling. And air jacks on my lift. I do not sand or paint.
Thirty of more years ago manufactures started using amp ratings to push their products misleading consumers into believing higher amp ratings mean a more powerful product.
I see higher amp ratings as being caused by cheap bearings. Huh? As a bearing is failing, what happens to the amp draw of the motor? Yes Hillary, good guess, it goes up.
I've looked at compressors at the big box joints and I look at two things. I read the motor nameplate for the rated HP which usually says spl. Uh-huh...
The other thing I look for and at is the style of plug it has. I haven't seen one that has a 30 Amp 220 v plug. Ergo, the 5HP peak thing is misleading, deceptive and obviously endorsed by not just industry, but government too.
I guess paying a Washington lobbyist is cheaper than building a quality products.
I see higher amp ratings as being caused by cheap bearings. Huh? As a bearing is failing, what happens to the amp draw of the motor? Yes Hillary, good guess, it goes up.
I've looked at compressors at the big box joints and I look at two things. I read the motor nameplate for the rated HP which usually says spl. Uh-huh...
The other thing I look for and at is the style of plug it has. I haven't seen one that has a 30 Amp 220 v plug. Ergo, the 5HP peak thing is misleading, deceptive and obviously endorsed by not just industry, but government too.
I guess paying a Washington lobbyist is cheaper than building a quality products.
md21722
Well-known member
Oiled definitely not
Oilless how are you going to drain the tank?
As cheap as oilless compressors are, why not buy what you need?
Oilless how are you going to drain the tank?
As cheap as oilless compressors are, why not buy what you need?
Schurkey
Well-known member
Oilless? Hundred dollars--MAX. They make so much noise when new, you'll never hear the rod getting ready to blow out when they're well-worn.
I wouldn't have one in my shop. My Father-In-Law has one, I make him roll it outside when he wants to "use air tools". Which is a joke, because his air tools have no power. This is exactly as predicted, when the compressor doesn't kick in until 100 psi in the tank, and runs continuously the whole time the air-tool trigger is pulled, there's no way on Earth you're going to get 90 at the tool when the tool is running.
The best use for those things is to have the tank connected at the far end of the plumbing for the REAL air compressor, as a remote reservoir. Throw the pump/motor/regulator in the recycle bin, and plug the un-needed hole in the tank.
Well this one certainly isn't new. they are including a bundle of air tools with it..
I see the general consensus here is to go with 240V, gallon tank however with my type of use and space it just doesn't seem logical to drop that kinda cash on it. On top anything that big I'd have to house it outside and build some sort of enclosure.
I am trying to find a happy medium here, taking lug nuts off, and using a air ratchet at times to not having to turn manually by hand would be wicked. I certainly don't plan on running a spray gun with it or using a die grinder to sand a whole car down - so is 240V with high CFM output really necessary?
Schurkey
Well-known member
If you buy a real compressor, you'll find more things to do with it.
You buy a junk compressor, you'll fill tires.
You buy a junk compressor, you'll fill tires.