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5th Wheel Trailer conversion

bmxdad

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Anyone convert a 5th wheel camper into a car hauler or equipment trailer? I can get a 24' double axle with good brakes for free. Some say the frames are to lite, others say the older ones are OK. This one is older, but I haven't really checked it out yet ... thoughts?
 
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gearhead1

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I'd look at the main frame rails for size and thickness, compare with other trailers and start there. It can work, it can also be a bad idea. If the main rails are big enough, you should be fine. Free is the right price. Definitely worth looking into.
 
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bmxdad

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No, and that's a little worrisome too. I guess if I did it right, I could recycle the metal and just have to deal with the little bit of insulation and paneling there is.

It has a propane/electric water heater and refer that I might be able to sell ...
 

f150skidoo

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I would highly recommend not doing it. I've turned two camper trailers into landscape trailers. The first was a single axle camper frame that I had to cut out rotten frame parts and replace. Second was a tandem axle frame that I scrapped the frame but kept the axles and built the frame from scratch. But the axles brakes were a older design that you couldn't get parts for so I would of been further ahead by getting all new parts.
 

LXCam

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Also normally the trailers are pretty high off the ground. So if you plan of loading lowered cars, you'll need one hell of a ramp system. And you're going to have a LOT of trash to get rid off. There's a hell of a lot more material there than you might think there is. I'd suggest if you can flip it for a few bucks to cover a used car trailer I'd go that route.
 

nickelmore

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There is no "recycleing" equation that is worth doing. Yes can it be done yes. You will end up with "parts".. In my world parts is parts. Good axles are nice to have a gooseneck setup is good if you have a rig to haul it.

Dumpster, sawzall with demo blade, sledge hammer and prybar.

Smash and throw the whole thing into a dumpster. That is the cost.

Depending on where you are at. I would say go for it but you will need to beef it up for hauling anything heavy.
 

rsanter

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Turn it into a tiny house
Sell for too much money
Use that money to buy the trailer you want

Bob
 

kbs2244

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It may make a good pattern for building one of stronger stuff.
 

Thumper68

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Check out the frame, some of the older 5th wheels used a very nice frame, more like a toy hauler and would do nicely.
 
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bmxdad

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Went and looked at the 5th Wheel ...

  • 4" Channel frame rails.
  • 67" to outside of rails
  • 72" to inside of tires.
  • 186" long bottom frame
  • 72" upper frame/tongue.
  • 93" from front of frame to center of axle toggle.
  • Electric brakes.
Would need some stringers to stiffen it up, but looks like it would be an OK utility trailer. Not sure as a car hauler ... but a toy hauler for sure.
 

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gearhead1

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With the 4" rails, I agree with the toy hauler route. If it had 6" channel frame rails, I'd say no issue with a car hauler.

Now if you beef up the side rails I'd think it could be done. A guy I know did this very same thing for a car hauler. I'm not going to any demolition derbies this year, so I won't see him, but I'll take pics the next time I do see him at the track and put on GJ for reference.
 

gearhead1

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Torque tubes are a very efficient way to stiffen up a trailer frame.

Correct, for torsion or 'twisting' of the trailer. It will help in bending some because you have another member going longitudinal in the trailer. I think bigger main rails would be better to increase the bending strength.
 
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bmxdad

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So welding in a 4" tube length wise? Why not just some 2x3 angle iron stringers?

And whats more common for toy haulers of this size ... standard tongue, 5th wheel hitch or a Goose neck? I'd think a standard hitch would do.
 

csp

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2x3 angle iron stringers mounted how/where?

Assuming you mean in place of a torque tube, it's the single tube throughout the entire length of the trailer that gives it the resistance to twist. You'll never get that kind of rigidity from multiple pieces welded in different places throughout the frame.

As said, it does little to nothing to add bending strength. You need larger main rails.

How did this 5th wheel suddenly become a toy hauler, as in a camper with a garage to put toys into??
 
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Hephaestus29

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I wouldn't tear the trailer apart unless you
absolutely have to. I would unbolt everything
if you can, then go to the city dump or
recycling place and have them lift it off
if they'll do it. It would save you a lot if time.
 
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bmxdad

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It has a leaky roof up front, so wooden framing is all rotted out. To old to sell, and to bad of condition to really fix. She doesn't use iit anyway. She bought it to live in when she left her **** husband who beat her. He's dead, and she's buying a new condo now, so ... she's giving it away.

I have access to a 10 yard dumpster. SIL is making a car hauler out of a huge motor-home that went under a low bridge and scalped itself.
 
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kerrynzl

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So welding in a 4" tube length wise? Why not just some 2x3 angle iron stringers?

And whats more common for toy haulers of this size ... standard tongue, 5th wheel hitch or a Goose neck? I'd think a standard hitch would do.


Once it's stripped, flip it upside down.
Then weld a triangular shaped trusses [bridges] underneath. go under the axles!

The truss will be under tension when "beaming loads" are placed on the trailer
You can weld diagonal braces from one truss to the other truss to increase torsional stiffness
1-1/2" sq tubing would be strong enough for this
 

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f150skidoo

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Like my earlier reply I still wouldn't bother with the trailer. After you spend a bunch of time & material to stiffen the trailer its still only 67" usable deck width. Now what you can do for a usable deck width for cars would be to make a deck over trailer but the ramps would be to steep for low cars.
 

gearhead1

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Once it's stripped, flip it upside down.
Then weld a triangular shaped trusses [bridges] underneath. go under the axles!

The truss will be under tension when "beaming loads" are placed on the trailer
You can weld diagonal braces from one truss to the other truss to increase torsional stiffness
1-1/2" sq tubing would be strong enough for this

I would think you would want to put the truss on top so it is in tension instead of compression. I don't think it does much on the bottom.
 

kerrynzl

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I would think you would want to put the truss on top so it is in tension instead of compression. I don't think it does much on the bottom.

On a normal bumper pull type trailer when the payload straddles each side of the axles you would be correct.
The weight tries to bend down at each end.

This is a 5th wheel trailer, all the weight is between the axles and the 5th wheel.
The weight tries to bend down in the middle.
 
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