5X10 Trailer Build

[kerrynzl]

Interesting idea ... trailer number two maybe

Not too late on your trailer if you haven't glued it together with the MIG,
Just chop off the corners with a drop-saw

 

[bullnerd]

"depending on how well I can plasma cut the hole"

Hole saw and a jigsaw.

 

[koditten]

I use a straight edge on the sides of the light cut out and free hand the round ends of the light cut outs.

I do agree the hole saw and jig saw method is the best looking hole cut out.

 

[bmxdad]

Not too late on your trailer if you haven't glued it together with the MIG,
Just chop off the corners with a drop-saw

Been thinking about this ... I'd need some 1.5"x1.5" x 3/16" square tubing, about 20" long for each corner. Not a big cost, but what about strength?

I could add a gusset on the bottom, to tie the two c-channel pieces together in each corner. Already have some 3/16" plate for that.

Sure would look nice ... a little more custom.

FYI - Trailer seems over built, but the idea is to upgrade the axle to a #5200 one in the far future.

 

[brewchief]

I used 6x3x 1/4" box tube for the rear of my car trailer when I redid it, I mounted the grommet style lights by torching the holes slightly undersized and cleaning them up with one of these http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.co...-11-type-18-norton-61463622191-nor61463622191 mounted in my angle grinder. I also used these boxes on the sides http://www.ebay.com/itm/Trailer-Ste...m43c75b4d1f:m:mffrcMrvCNNAMJGKgXk-DSQ&vxp=mtr I see they have a version with a mount for license plate now as well if you need it.

 

[Wanna Ride]

For those of you that have built a small trailer like the OP is building, did you miter, cope or **** the corners. I'd assume the latter would have only been done with squat tubing frame.

I mitered my frame. I thought a I had a specific thread on here for just the trailer build, but I guess it was included in with some other projects. Here's a link with the trailer details and later mods included through the whole thread, with some other projects too...

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=71412

 

[bmxdad]

I like the trailer jack mounting points.

 

[kerrynzl]

Been thinking about this ... I'd need some 1.5"x1.5" x 3/16" square tubing, about 20" long for each corner. Not a big cost, but what about strength?

I could add a gusset on the bottom, to tie the two c-channel pieces together in each corner. Already have some 3/16" plate for that.

Sure would look nice ... a little more custom.

FYI - Trailer seems over built, but the idea is to upgrade the axle to a #5200 one in the far future.

3/16"wall is overkill in my opinion. If you have a top rail across the front it ties it all in.
If you've got front and rear tailgates, you can extend the post below the frame [the height of the tongue] then run a piece of angle back to the tongue creating a "cantilever"
Over here, it is common to use a folded panel across the rear underneath the frame for taillights and license plate.
This ties the rear posts together as a "cantilever" [you could also use angle]

I'll post some photos of an example [I have them stored on a "dying" computer]

I built a folded sheet metal 5x10 trailer with cantilever corners from 1.5mm sheet [1/16"] and 2mm corner posts [5/64] for a builder friend.
The trailer was very lightweight [which means more payload with our laws]

He regularly carts around a small digger that weighs 1600kg on it [3500lbs]


Understand Shape is far more important than size with designs

 

[SDBOB1]

I rebuilt my 5x7 last year.I used 3 " channel.I kept the 'c' out and flush cut cross pieces between.On first and last I cut 45 degree braces to keep trailer square in use and abuse.I built a tandem 6k 35 yrs ago only regret was not using 6" rectangular tubing ,I used 4".my 2cts. Bob
.

 

[zmotorsports]

Subscribed.

Glad you were finally able to get around to building your trailer bmxdad.

Mike.

 

[Wanna Ride]

I like the trailer jack mounting points.

Thanks! Sometimes the simplest little ideas, make all the difference in the world. I had to haul some 20' pieces of steel this past week, and came up with another cool little idea I'm going to incorporate into it in a couple weeks.

I'll update my thread with pictures as I go.

 

[bmxdad]

Finally got a chance to get back on the trailer. Finished fitting. Put it together and got everything with in 1/32. Will be tacking it together, and finishing the perimeter welds tomorrow.

Next will be stingers for flooring and spring pads. Then its on to the tongue. Ill be tacking and bolting the coupler to the channel ...

... this thing is bigger than I envisioned, but we'll see.

 

[drivesitfar]

BMX: looking good.

 

[beakie]

if it's possible, use a jack that allows you to drop the tailgate of your truck while still hitched.

in your first post, #1 and #2 couplers have that space for a jack mounted in that hole... but any jack there (that I've seen) prevents a tailgate from being lowered all the way.

our pup up & travel trailer are like that and can be annoying.

ute trailer I have I used a jack mounted further back and also swing up out of the way when not in use.
good friend made me aware of that issue after he loaned his truck/trailer to a buddy and it came back with a dent in the tailgate when the guy let it drop.

 

[bmxdad]

BMX: looking good.

Thanks Drives

if it's possible, use a jack that allows you to drop the tailgate of your truck while still hitched.

in your first post, #1 and #2 couplers have that space for a jack mounted in that hole... but any jack there (that I've seen) prevents a tailgate from being lowered all the way.

our pup up & travel trailer are like that and can be annoying.

ute trailer I have I used a jack mounted further back and also swing up out of the way when not in use.
good friend made me aware of that issue after he loaned his truck/trailer to a buddy and it came back with a dent in the tailgate when the guy let it drop.

Yea ... that's been mentioned by a few people I know. Going with the swing away type.

 

[bmxdad]

To hot last couple days, but got the frame welded up. Floor stringers are next, then the spring hangers so I can get it out of the garage.

 

[Big Dan3344]

I always build my small trailers upside down,just the frame. It makes it easier to set up your spring hangers and welding on the tongue. Then flip it with the wrecker or crane. After its flipped, the short sides and floor are a piece of cake. Want an easy way ask a lazy person

 

[Redwolf947]

if it's possible, use a jack that allows you to drop the tailgate of your truck while still hitched.

in your first post, #1 and #2 couplers have that space for a jack mounted in that hole... but any jack there (that I've seen) prevents a tailgate from being lowered all the way.

our pup up & travel trailer are like that and can be annoying.

ute trailer I have I used a jack mounted further back and also swing up out of the way when not in use.
good friend made me aware of that issue after he loaned his truck/trailer to a buddy and it came back with a dent in the tailgate when the guy let it drop.

Just a note: If you have a 2" receiver you can buy a longer receiver if your tailgate hits the jack. I know I found out when I bent my original receiver I didn't know there were different lengths and bought one that was too short. I now have a longer one and can lower my tailgate again.

 

[zmotorsports]

Coming along nicely.

Mike.

 

[AMCguy]

The cleanest and easiest, therefore the best way I have found is to weld the rails to an upright piece of receiver tube. This allows you to drop in a piece of 2x2'' square tubing for whatever you need it to do. There are all sorts of possibilities.

 

[MagKarl]

Are you grinding a bevel on parts and remove rust/scale to prep before you weld them? Bevel for prep and weld to fill helps a lot with assuring penetration as opposed to a tight fit and weld on top, especially if you want it flush after you're done.

Not sure if you got the home built licensing info figured out or not yet so I'll share a bit. You need a certified scale weight, then go to the state patrol in Parkland for an inspection and they will assign a VIN and tag the tongue. Then you can get it registered and title.

 

[bmxdad]

Yep, I ground a bevel, and getting rid of scale. Welded inside and out ... although I didn't get the scale off on all the inside welds. Certainly does make a difference.

For the inspection, do I need a receipt for everything? Anything to watch out for?

 

[MagKarl]

Start here - http://www.wsp.wa.gov/traveler/docs/cvd/170_129.pdf

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

The cleanest and easiest, therefore the best way I have found is to weld the rails to an upright piece of receiver tube. This allows you to drop in a piece of 2x2'' square tubing for whatever you need it to do. There are all sorts of possibilities.

3 days too late for me

IMO the hitch length is an iffy way to adjust, it affects(and is a nice way to adjust) how quick the trailer responds to tun inputs, but in general, long ones **** if you already have a long truck.

 

[bmxdad]

Just an update ... stringers all cut and ready. Needed two more and steel yard had some 2"x2"x.125" remnants, so I grabbed that. They'll be used by the spring hangers to stiffen frame up in that area

Have a question on the front hanger ...

10' long trailer so center line of axle ~6' from front of trailer. 24" springs so front spring hanger is about 5' from the front of trailer? That sound about right?

Also, the frame is 60" wide ... maybe to wide? Center line of spring bolt is 57.75", this puts the hanger right on the outside edge as shown below ... I was going to add a support to the inside edge of hanger so its supported by the channel. Plenty of room for the wheels so that shouldn't be a problem. Data sheet for axle says its for a 60" wide trailer, so ... knock on wood I guess. Hopefully be rolling it out this weekend.

 

[koditten]

On a 5 x 10 trailer, I weld the front spring bracket 56" from the front of the trailer. That is measured from the front of the spring bracket to front of frame.

That bracket will be fine moved towards the center of the trailer for a 3600 pound capacity trailer. Put an extra cross m ember there if it bothers you. It keeps the frame from flexing inward when you overload the trailer.

 

[Wanna Ride]

Love these trailer build threads.

 

[bmxdad]

On a 5 x 10 trailer, I weld the front spring bracket 56" from the front of the trailer. That is measured from the front of the spring bracket to front of frame.

That bracket will be fine moved towards the center of the trailer for a 3600 pound capacity trailer. Put an extra cross m ember there if it bothers you. It keeps the frame from flexing inward when you overload the trailer.

So less then the 60/40 split? that would lighten the tongue, but its still an extra 3 or 4 feet to the coupler. Plus I'll be adding a trailer box up front.


koditten ... when do you paint, before or after your finished? My plan was to paint it after the tongue was on, but before I did the railing. It'll be implement paint from TS ... John Deere green, or something like that.

 

[koditten]

I use the 56" for several reasons.

When trailer is done, there is plenty of tongue weight for it to tow fine empty. I also use this number because the trailer is not too heavy that I can't lift the tongue by hand and move it around the shop if I need to.

There is no magic number for axle placement. Especially with a utility trailer. A builder has no idea what the customer will haul and how they will position the load on the trailer. The only thing I try to do is make the things tow good empty. Its assumed the trailer will be towed empty half the time.

I paint after all the welding is done.

 

[Outlander]

Love these trailer build threads.

^^ this! Love them all!

 

[CitadelBlue]

On a 5 x 10 trailer, I weld the front spring bracket 56" from the front of the trailer. That is measured from the front of the spring bracket to front of frame.

That bracket will be fine moverd towards the center of the trailer for a 3600 pound capacity trailer. Put an extra cross m ember there if it bothers you. It keeps the frame from flexing inward when you overload the trailer.

Is there such a rule of thumb. Place axle in middle of trailer.... at the 5 ft mark for 10 ft long trailer. Move axle back 10 inches ...... 1 inch per foot of length ..... add springs and weld or bolt in place.

 

[bmxdad]

Stringers in place and axle mounted ... tongue goes on tomorrow, then it's out of the garage. Pain in the *** keeping it square. I'd measure after fitting everything, then get a 1/4" difference corner to corner after coming back later in the day. After axle and stringers it's about 1/8" off. Bummer, it was perfect ...

New rotors and pads from Rock Auto for the wife's Sportage showed up today, so I have a brake job to do before Tuesday.

How is a trailers capacity figured out? Springs and axle are #3500, wheels and tires are #2048 each, so that's #4100. Coupler is rated at #5000. Lowest is the axle set, so the capacity is #3500 minus weight of trailer, or do they take a percentage of the lowest? Like #3000 minus the trailer weight?

 

[bmxdad]

You will make a mistake using generic information like that.
Learn to do the math and get it correct.

That trailer plan is 5'4" [64" ] at the outer edge ,if your trailer is exactly 5" you need to recalculate the numbers

I use 50 degree couplers all the time. They are 25 degrees each side of the centreline of the trailer.
If the trailer is 5' [60"] wide, it is 30" each side of the centreline
Now if you use 2x4 tube[or c channel] for the tongue, you need to deduct the width of this section [at 25 degrees] from the 30" because the tongue is joined together at the inside edge .but the outside edge of the frame is the furthest it can be mounted.
2" steel sitting at a 25 degree angle = 1.8"wide
So the 1/2 width at the centreline is 28.2"

use this online calculator
http://www.csgnetwork.com/righttricalc.html

Side a = 28.2"
Angle A = 25 degrees

So side c = 66.7" [this is the actual tongue measurement for a 60" wide trailer]

This online calculator is a handy tool for cutting symmetrical pie cuts

Did my measurements, and these work great ... will be notching pie cut tomorrow ... knock on wood ...

Thanks all ...

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

I've seen it said you can add 10% back in for tongue weight if you want to push the issue.
In cali that would make brakes mandatory though.

I don't have anything flat or level on my property, so I've been using my steel deck car hauler as a fab table. I tack some bed frame on a diagonal to keep it from getting screwey with the heat. at first, both my rails were crowned, so I preloaded them a bit past straight and did a few welds. Now they are dead on, but I think my hitch coupler might be 1/16 off to the side. Especially on a longer weld, you dill get a lot of curvature.

As far as pie cuts, I drilled their inner points, then cut to that with an angle grinder. go easy on the drill at the bottom so the angle doesn't bind and waste your bit. I also Veed them out a bit after the pic. That was easy and went well.

I got my tongue made up today, but I gotta do some deep and accurate thinking to get the hinge right.the back of the tongue sits under the rectangle, hinged just ahead of the spring and as high as I can get it in hopes I can chock the wheels and back up to tilt thus saving the weight of a dump mechanism on my dinky 3500 axle.

My tongue is pretty long, leaves room for a box, and helps the trailer not be too twitchy backing up. hitch to hub distance is pretty close to my popup that tows great. the clamps on the main body locate the raised part of the tongue

I think I have more time in the digital design than the actual building, which would be less embarrassing if the digital build wasn't 90% done after the steel one. Sketchup is dead on for those pesky angles though. It doesn't seem to support hinging parts unfortunately.

 

[bmxdad]

Arrg ... frustrating day. I did my pie cuts for the tongue, and was right on with the angle ... but, the angle is wrong.

I redid the calculations and wanted to hit myself with a hammer, should have been 25 deg, not 22.5 deg. when measuring from the outer edge. I'm off about 3 deg, which at +67" out is a lot. So to bring the coupler ends together, and to the right angle I need to rotate the short leg in, as shown in the second photo. Its flush on the end but .5" from the edge where the pie cut is. I don't really see this as an issue, actually maybe a stronger weld since I can get a nice fillet. But, I'd like some input first. Slicing and fixing the angle is not that big a deal ... besides time.

Also, the coupler is a stamped unit with a hefty radius inside where the beams goe ... do I need to grind the radius on the beam or do you guys/gals put it flush to the top or sides. Again, more of a time issue.

I also plan on two bolts on each side of the coupler so the beams are not only welded, but mechanically fastened to the coupler. Over kill? Yea, probably ... but ...

FYI .... I will always remove scale from now on, I promise !! The time added is made up in a better weld ... lesson learned.

 

[koditten]

I c- clamp the tongue to the coupler sides. This leaves a pretty good gap on the top between the coupler and tongue leg. The stamped couplers are made of such soft iron, I just beat the top of the coupler until it is an acceptable gap to weld.

Whatever you do, do not weld the inside of the coupler. I've had countless coupler repairs that the builders weld the inside. Major pain in the *** to get at the welds to remove bad coupler.

I don't know what to tell you on the angle cut error. it hurts nothing, but it would bother me, so I would most likely redo it. I know its not what you wanted to hear.

 

[kerrynzl]

Arrg ... frustrating day. I did my pie cuts for the tongue, and was right on with the angle ... but, the angle is wrong.

I redid the calculations and wanted to hit myself with a hammer, should have been 25 deg, not 22.5 deg. when measuring from the outer edge. I'm off about 3 deg, which at +67" out is a lot. So to bring the coupler ends together, and to the right angle I need to rotate the short leg in, as shown in the second photo. Its flush on the end but .5" from the edge where the pie cut is. I don't really see this as an issue, actually maybe a stronger weld since I can get a nice fillet. But, I'd like some input first. Slicing and fixing the angle is not that big a deal ... besides time.

:

When doing "pie cuts" ,you only cut to the inside edge.
Like using a press brake , all folds are measured on the inside.

For a 25 degree fold , use a square and scribe a line. Then mark a cut line 12.5 degrees each side of the line back to the inside wall.
This method makes the join symetrical

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=385848&d=1415785331

 

[AMCguy]

Couplers, weather they're weld on or bolt on, are designed to be attached to structural tubing not channel iron. The radius on the coupler matches the radius on the tube. You'll have to grind a radius on the channel.

Any time I've had to use channel for a tongue, I'd weld the channel to a stub of tubing and use a straight bolt on coupler or a surge coupler.

 

[bmxdad]

Got it done, but ran out of gas ... front of trailer to center line of ball is about 43".

Picked up the trailer box at HF for $89 and some change. Looking good ..

 

[kerrynzl]

Got it done, but ran out of gas ... front of trailer to center line of ball is about 43".

Picked up the trailer box at HF for $89 and some change. Looking good ..

You must have some luck on your side!
I always run out off gas at 5.00pm Friday on a holiday weekend.

You can damn near set your clock by it