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6 point is the king!

qqzj

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Can't believe so many people are talking about difference in brands all day everyday while ignoring the elephant in the room. Also Proto 6 point is just about the same as powerbuilt from the almost universally despised auto parts store. Objective tests' results sure don't encourage sales of professional tools. 😂
 
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qqzj

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I think powerbuilt is pretty decent stuff at their price, I think you might be thinking of performance tool?
I thought power torque and performance tools have more steet cred than power built?
 
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qqzj

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A Hyundai will get you there just the same as a Mercedes.
But I'd rather have the Mercedes if it's in my budget.
You do realize that your argument is relevant only when you agree Hyundai and Mercedes have the same level of performance, right?
 

CHI_Tool&Die

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You can have my 12pts when you pry them from my cold dead hands. :) Seriously though, while I love me some good old-fashioned USA-forged wrenches, it's really hard to argue with how well the Southeast/East Asian manufacturers have improved. Guys looking for cheap, good-enough tools are living in the golden era today.
 

Handyandy23

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The Proto and Powerbuilt both maxed out the gauge on 6 point, but that's because 6 point is the geometry with the most grip, so there's a lot more margin for error in machining/quality. The Proto open end, 12 pt, and spline all smashed the Powerbuilt, which is what you're "paying for" with more reputable brands.

The bigger "brand related" takeaway I got from this exercise is that Gearwrench QC is awful. They scored well on open end, but were terribly low on their 12 pt, which suggests to me they have the most variation in their manufacturing processes. You could end up with a good one or you could end up with a dud. All 3 Proto wrench styles output good results that were consistent with the geometric characteristics for each style, which tells me their processes are very consistent.
 

Handyandy23

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With regards to the bigger picture of 6 pt vs 12 pt, it all comes down to situation and what trade offs you're willing to make. The open ends were by far the worst, which is to be expected, but people still buy open end wrenches and use them because they are required in certain situations.

That same logic is why my box end wrenches have 12 points, and why almost every socket I own is 6 points. If I can fit a socket then I'll use it because using a ratchet is a lot more convenient, and your engagement angle is only limited by the number of teeth in the ratchet, rather than the 6 points of the socket.

The only way I'm using a box wrench instead of a socket is if I don't have enough clearance to fit the socket and ratchet. And if I'm in a spot where there's not enough clearance for a socket, it also means I probably don't have the clearance or swing to use a 6 point box end wrench. If I'm in a tight spot I'll trade off the extra grip of 6 pt for having more positions to put the wrench onto the fastener.

Lastly, you have to take into context the torque values each of those failed at. Even the 12 pt box ends failed at well over 100 ft-lbs on extremely rounded fasteners in 9/16" size (about 14mm). By most standards used in the auto industry, a 14mm bolt head would be used on either an 8mm or 10mm bolt, where recommended max torque of a Class 10.9 bolt would only be 60 ft-lbs. Of course with corrosion or damaged threads the removal torque could go much higher, but he needed to use a cheater bar on every wrench to get it to slip. The 6 pt might have held on longer (in fact until the barrel nut actually failed itself), but the chances of you needing to use a standard length wrench 12 pt box end on an 8mm bolt to crank 130+ ft-lbs is very low - at that point you're not even really using the right tool for the job, or you're dealing with some other type of issue.
 

dmparksa

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I thought power torque and performance tools have more steet cred than power built?
I had in my mind that Power Torque and Powerbuilt are much better than Performance Tools, but probably because performance tool makes some really low end stuff along with some decent stuff.

I probably bought some lower end performance tool stuff at one point and incorrectly wrote off the whole brand as sub-par.

In either case, I think the only time I've used a 12pt socket on a hex head bolt was on some larger bolts(19mm+). In those cases, I've never had anything slip. When working on a rusted on 32mm axle nut, I picked up a Power Torque 6pt. No reason to risk it with a 12pt when using it with a breaker bar and a 5 ft cheater pipe!

We ended up getting the axle nut off by putting the wheel back on, then driving it forward with the cheater pipe against the ground. The socket and breaker bar both survived somehow.

12pt box end wrenches are all I use when it comes to wrenches and this video is reminding me that it might be a good idea to pickup a set of 6 pt box end wrenches sometime in the future...
 
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richfinn

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All wrenches are a compromise, you trade ultimate nut busting torque and grip for accessibility. What's the point of having a wrench that won't round off a hex if you can't index it to the bolt in an awkward location (with little room to swing it) in the first place?

This is why Snap-On etc. have all moved to Flank Drive or derivatives of it, better grip and more versatile.

I have one 6 point 10mm Snappy (just in case) and a handful of line wrenches and they have served me well enough.

Just not viable for modern Auto repair, maybe for other industries they are more useful?
 
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ecotec

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Oct 5, 2010
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I have 6pt wrenches, but I never use them. I doubt that I will ever get rid of them.

They are between short pattern and regular pattern in length…
 

cherrybomb

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Oct 18, 2016
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I'm a home gamer,I don't need all the sizes.I do 10mm,my lugs for cars,utility trailer,two lawn tractors and the nuts for the mower blades.Six point gives me confidence and safety while in a sometimes compromising position
 

VolvoRyan

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Of course, this is all kinda moot at the end of the day. Nobody's putting 200 ft-lbs on a wrench at the size in the TTC video unless it's "hold my beer" time. ;)

-Ryan
 

PBCampbell

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Combination wrenches - 6 point
Double box wrenches - 12 point
Ratcheting wrenches - spline with flank drive style open end

What are we arguing about again?
 

CoogarXR

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I am of the opinion that as long as it's a quality socket, and that it fits the bolt/nut with no slop, you won't round it off.

When I first started wrenching, I had some cheap 6-point sets that stretched and cracked like... well... like the cheap pieces of **** that they were. I broke many of them, and damaged many fasteners in the process.

Then, I found a set of NOS Craftsman USA 12-point sockets at a flea market back in the early 90s. I literally have never damaged a fastener since. And I still use them as my primary go-to socket set to this day.

So I hear people preach physics all day long, but the point (pun totally intended) is, just make sure the socket fits tight, and exert force on it as close to parallel with the bolt head as you can be, and you'll be fine with 6 or 12 point.
 

Ton ton

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Can't believe so many people are talking about difference in brands all day everyday while ignoring the elephant in the room. Also Proto 6 point is just about the same as powerbuilt from the almost universally despised auto parts store. Objective tests' results sure don't encourage sales of professional tools. 😂
Are you talking about AutoZone?
 

Dakotadadv8

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May 30, 2021
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Fortunate to have high quality 12 points wrenches and 6 point sockets. Prefer to use wrenches if possible. For really rusted fasteners lots of PB blaster, time, and heat.
 

Garcky

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Both in a fleet shop and at home, I've never rounded off a fastener nor broken a tool, 6 or 12 point. Not once. I've twisted fasteners off, but never ruined one nor broken a tool. If something won't come loose, I get a different tool, or use some heat. Our brains are the most powerful tool.
 
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