Stokes_
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6 point all day. 12 point is notorious for stripping bolts in my experience.
6 point vs 12 point sockets
- Thread starter Jsf721
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Chuck122
Well-known member
mrjaw14
Well-known member
A "modern" 12pt socket will not strip a bolt out. They drive the FLATS not the corner just like a modern 6pt socket. The "extra 6 points" end up in the center of the flats and do not engage at all.
By modern I mean Snap-On "Flank Drive", SK "Suregrip", Wright "Wrightdrive", Matco "Optitorque", etc.
If you have 12 point sockets that strip fasteners you either have older style that don't drive the flats, or a poor quality, poor fitting socket, or you're not straight on the fastener...all issues that'll strip a bolt when using a 6 pt. Ever wonder why the larger drive sizes usually come in 12 pt now? (3/4", 1in, etc) Impact sockets are 6pt for strength, not because they drive the fastener differently than a 12pt. Like I said: modern 12 pt drives the flats, not corners. If you don't drive the corners you cannot strip a bolt.
When I have to break something loose, I use a breaker bar. to get the angle I need I usually use a 12 pt socket. I have no issues with stripping bolts
By modern I mean Snap-On "Flank Drive", SK "Suregrip", Wright "Wrightdrive", Matco "Optitorque", etc.
If you have 12 point sockets that strip fasteners you either have older style that don't drive the flats, or a poor quality, poor fitting socket, or you're not straight on the fastener...all issues that'll strip a bolt when using a 6 pt. Ever wonder why the larger drive sizes usually come in 12 pt now? (3/4", 1in, etc) Impact sockets are 6pt for strength, not because they drive the fastener differently than a 12pt. Like I said: modern 12 pt drives the flats, not corners. If you don't drive the corners you cannot strip a bolt.
When I have to break something loose, I use a breaker bar. to get the angle I need I usually use a 12 pt socket. I have no issues with stripping bolts
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
mrjaw, where do you live? If it's not in the north you have no idea what rust does to bolts. The best 12 point will meet its match quickly. 6 point sometimes is just about near the rounding point!
Farmall450
Well-known member
It's sad that I can remember when this thread was new...
mrjaw14
Well-known member
If the bolt is damaged (rusted) and the metal is deforming, I will admit that a 6pt has less voids for metal to deform into. My comment was specifically addressing a normal fastener within its service life. I was not talking about damaged fasteners. there is an appropriate tool for every job, and it's not fair to take my statement and try to argue it's not true based on a scenario where damaged fasteners are a consideration.
FYI rusted bolts aren't just present in the north, and I've had my share. Please notice the illustrations I've included. Both 6 and 12 pt drive the flats, and the area in the center of the 6pt isn't touching the fastener, as is the case with the 12 pt. If we aren't dealing with a damaged fastener, this argument is moot.
PS: for the person who's gonna say the SO flank drive 6pt has more contact area than the SK suregrip...you're right. WrightDrive 12pt has more contact area than the SK, but I couldn't get an acceptable graphic for it. But never the less, the stress in both cases is on the flats.
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Wakefield
Well-known member
How about those older Bonney 12 points with the curvy corners-even more rounded than Snap On corners.
If you are working on older cars where there's a lot of salt used on the roads it seems like the majority of the hex fasteners you encounter are damaged and deforming. So it's "not fair" to talk about normal fasteners within their service life! Just kidding.
Today's 12 points may be a lot better than the old ones but I still prefer 6 point. You can press/pound them onto a rusty hex and hopefully get the head to re-form into shape enough to achieve torque. With 12 point sometimes it's hard to even know exactly how to position it on a rusted head to get a grip.
It depends on what you use the sockets for, I definitely prefer 6 point.
nicksnothereman
Well-known member
Yeah sure.
If I see 12 point on the tag I move on automatically so I don't even consider them unless there's nothing else. F-ing hate them, every time I buy them I use them once then say never again.
Better question...would you use 12 point impact sockets with an impact wrench on a hex fastener? Want to hear the answers on that one.
Yeah sure.
If I see 12 point on the tag I move on automatically so I don't even consider them unless there's nothing else. F-ing hate them, every time I buy them I use them once then say never again.
Better question...would you use 12 point impact sockets with an impact wrench on a hex fastener? Want to hear the answers on that one.
I think you missed post #39. Lowes Kobalt 6 point sockets cost 148% more than the same size socket in 12 point. If my math is correct, 11.10 is 248% of 4.47, so that means 11.10 is 148% more than 4.47.
nicksnothereman
Well-known member
I have noticed that. Since I do buy kobalt stuff (usually individuals) it hasn't deterred me into buying 12 point instead of 6 point despite the price difference (and I'm cheap); I'll take your word for the % but it's about a buck on most medium sized metric sockets. I haven't checked whether or not it's a coo thing or some type of manufacturing deal (might be both). Just won't use them.
So...would/do you use 12 points to torque over say 20 ft/lbs or with an impact wrench?
Edit: I see what you're talking about (on their website). That must be a materials deal. With that kind of price difference I'd just get the impact grade equivalent. It's (of course) not justifiable when you could probably buy a 3/8" adapter and the 3/8" drive equivalent for cheaper but it is what it is.
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I would if the socket was an impact and had flank drive.