6 point vs 12 point
- Thread starter fnsane
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kiatech
Well-known member
d.mcfarland
Well-known member
For me, 6 point, only because I don't have a need for 12 point. However, a GJ member did a test with a bunch of sockets and found that the contact point for 6 vs 12 wasn't that much different. However, a 12 point combination wrench is much easier to maneuver in an engine compartment.
RustFarmer
Well-known member
I rarely use sockets, but when I do, I prefer 10 points.
Tarheelgarage
Well-known member
bob15
Well-known member
If I had to go with one of each it would be:
12 point wrench because with a 6 pointer, you're limited to the wrench turn (fastener flats being 60° apart).
Sockets: I have no issues with the 12 point Bonney lobular (predates the snappy flank drive) sockets. In fact depending on what you're working on, 12 point sockets might be required (12 point or splined bolt heads or nuts).
That being said, all of my 3/8 SAE socket sets at home is 6 point because the price was right for both sets. I'm not too proud to say no to a great deal on Snap On socket sets.
bob
12 point wrench because with a 6 pointer, you're limited to the wrench turn (fastener flats being 60° apart).
Sockets: I have no issues with the 12 point Bonney lobular (predates the snappy flank drive) sockets. In fact depending on what you're working on, 12 point sockets might be required (12 point or splined bolt heads or nuts).
That being said, all of my 3/8 SAE socket sets at home is 6 point because the price was right for both sets. I'm not too proud to say no to a great deal on Snap On socket sets.
bob
Moose-LandTran
Well-known member
If you're sure it's been done to death, why are you bringing it up again?
It has been done to death, search and you'll find the answers to your questions.
kams1973
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Welcome to the forum. This subject has definately been hashed out on numerous occasions resulting in blah, blah, blah... Stick around and don't let the failure of this thread discourage you.
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
Don't be discouraged......if you had dug up an old post about 6 vs 12 point sockets you would have been accused of rehashing a necropost.
Welcome.....what kind of garage stuff are you into?
Welcome.....what kind of garage stuff are you into?
cj7365
Well-known member
LMAO no ****
Don't be discouraged......if you had dug up an old post about 6 vs 12 point sockets you would have been accused of rehashing a necropost.
Welcome.....what kind of garage stuff are you into?
Exactly,
I'm sorry but nothing irritates me more than searching for an answer or opinions through various forums until you have finally found a thread possibly covering your exact question only to have it wasted by someone saying "this has already been discussed" and you have to continue searching.
If I can only have one then its the 12 point set for the ability to make short turns in really tight spaces. I like having sets of 6 pt and 12pt because (all together now) "you can't have too many tools". Still waiting on the 24 point sets to come out.
AeroNautiCal
Well-known member
Odd that this has never come up before..... ;-)
Wakefield
Well-known member
On the newer (like in the past 30 years or so?) Flank Drive and Wright Drive type stuff I think there is more than just rounded chamfers at the corners,I think the angle of the wrenching contact surface has been changed a little bit to allow/compensate for the expected slip angle between the fastener and the tool such that the wrenching surface ends up closer to parallel with the fastener side once the expected slack has been taken up than would be the case with old style geometry. Spreads out the stress slightly on both the fastener and box end making slippage less likely. Probably more important with 12 point box ends/sockets than with 6 point? (Reduces the need for 6 points)
bsaint
Well-known member
Ma Donna!!!
I know I'm relatively new here, but why bother posting "this has been beaten to death" and "use the search" type replies? Seems to me that not everybody here sees or post their opinion in every single thread. Just because you have expressed your opinion in previous threads does not mean that someone who has not posted won't chime in with something useful. If this thread topic is boring to you, then skip it as the title blatantly describes what the OP is asking. I'm sure nearly every topic has beed discussed at some point or another but that does not mean that they are the be all end all of discussion on the matter.
Op I like 6 point sockets because the ratchet changes the angle needed, and there seems to be more metal in 6pt sockets. I like 12 point wrenches because they allow twice the angles.
Op I like 6 point sockets because the ratchet changes the angle needed, and there seems to be more metal in 6pt sockets. I like 12 point wrenches because they allow twice the angles.
tribbles
Well-known member
Heh, have that as a coffee mug. 12 point if I could only have one.
12 point for chrome sockets and wrenches. If you end up needing to use a breaker bar, only needing 30 degrees swing instead of 60 is nice.
6 point for impact sockets. The only thing that would convince me to have a 12 point impact socket would be if I were likely to encounter a 12 point fastener which I would need to run with an impact. In my line of work, it happens so very rarely that I just put the chrome socket on an impact extension (but that's running on the verge of provoking a whole new "oh not this again" thread.
Most rusted/damaged fasteners that will be rounded by a 12 point will also be rounded by a 6 point. There a very narrow margin of fastener damage, in which one can be damaged enough where a 12 point will round it, but a 6 point will remove it. It is a very narrow margin. So much so, that in my opinion, it's not worth keeping another set of sockets for it, although that's a matter of opinion, and some will reach different conclusions.
Try them both, form your own opinion based on your own observations, and if anyone tells you the opinion you've reached is wrong for you, tell 'em to go pound sand.
6 point for impact sockets. The only thing that would convince me to have a 12 point impact socket would be if I were likely to encounter a 12 point fastener which I would need to run with an impact. In my line of work, it happens so very rarely that I just put the chrome socket on an impact extension (but that's running on the verge of provoking a whole new "oh not this again" thread.
Most rusted/damaged fasteners that will be rounded by a 12 point will also be rounded by a 6 point. There a very narrow margin of fastener damage, in which one can be damaged enough where a 12 point will round it, but a 6 point will remove it. It is a very narrow margin. So much so, that in my opinion, it's not worth keeping another set of sockets for it, although that's a matter of opinion, and some will reach different conclusions.
Try them both, form your own opinion based on your own observations, and if anyone tells you the opinion you've reached is wrong for you, tell 'em to go pound sand.
I damaged a 13mm bolt head (neither rusty nor overtightened) with a 12pt (by hand ratchet) by not getting it straight on enough that I couldn't get a bite on it again until I switched got a 6pt. semi-deep. After this damage the 6 point grabbed it a LOT better. I imagine that some bolts are damaged even farther that only a 12 point would work in some cases.
I had sold my shallow 6pt but went ahead and reordered them after this recent incident. I definitely vote for both now, with a small preference for 6 point. As for the breaker bar mentioned above, I hope everybody knows you can turn a 6 point 90 degrees to get the other 30 degrees available.
I had sold my shallow 6pt but went ahead and reordered them after this recent incident. I definitely vote for both now, with a small preference for 6 point. As for the breaker bar mentioned above, I hope everybody knows you can turn a 6 point 90 degrees to get the other 30 degrees available.
I learned this on my own at one time but thanks for the reminder!!
Home shop opinion: There is such a marginal difference between the "grip" of the two (I have NEVER had one issue using a 12pt, ever) that I think it's better to have 12 point. What if you get a 12 point bolt?
Professionally, I see 12 points multiple times on a daily basis, I would say about 40% of the fasteners I see are 12pt vs 6. That being said, I've also broken torques on 6pt bolts upward of 300 ft-lbs using a 12 point socket...I think the biggest issue people run into are a) using cheap sockets with horrible tolerances or b) just using the wrong size outright or c) not being on the bolt/nut square or all the way (you'd be surprised how many times I see this happen.)
Professionally, I see 12 points multiple times on a daily basis, I would say about 40% of the fasteners I see are 12pt vs 6. That being said, I've also broken torques on 6pt bolts upward of 300 ft-lbs using a 12 point socket...I think the biggest issue people run into are a) using cheap sockets with horrible tolerances or b) just using the wrong size outright or c) not being on the bolt/nut square or all the way (you'd be surprised how many times I see this happen.)
genevabuck
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 9, 2012
- Messages
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I prefer 6 point sockets and 12 point wrenches simply because that it what the MAC guy recommended when I was a teenager and started buying tools.
So then you weren't using the proper tool
Correct, because I had sold my 6pt sockets believing falsely that the 12 points would be a perfect replacement for them. I will have both now, at least in metric shallow 1/4 & 3/8" drive.
I use 6 pt sockets and 12pt wrenches, I only use impact sockets so they are all 6 points i may pick up a set of 3/8 drive 12pt chromes for 12 pt fasteners but you have better grip with a 6 socket but in tighter quarters 12pt wrenches work great... just what i use
I keep (or am slowly going to through replacement as needed) almost all chrome 6pt sockets. I will still keep a bar of 12pts around for 12 pt fasteners. All my impact stuff is 6pt. Clearance isn't much of an issue with modern high tooth ratchets.
I have almost all 12 point wrenches, but there are a few six points thrown in (and they tend to illicit a curse out of me when I use them). I wish someone made six point ratcheting wrenches (or if some one out there did AND I knew about them.)
I have almost all 12 point wrenches, but there are a few six points thrown in (and they tend to illicit a curse out of me when I use them). I wish someone made six point ratcheting wrenches (or if some one out there did AND I knew about them.)
No, because you weren't on the fastener completely.
EDIT: Also, everyone needs to remember that sockets and hardware are built to a certain tolerance... That being said, obviously a 12 pt socket that happens to be at the high end of said tolerance will be more likely to round out a piece of hardware built to the low end of the tolerance than a 6pt build to the low end on a piece of hardware built to the high end...
Provided you have an equal difference between the two, I guarantee that a 12 pt is NEVER more likely to round/damage hardware than a 6pt.
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mrjaw14
Well-known member
With a ratchet use a 6 PT. You don't need the extra angle with a ratchet, so use a stronger (6pt) socket.
With a breaker bar, if I can get a 6pt on the fastener at a useful angle I'll use that first, but if I can't get the angle I'll go to a 12 pt.
I have both 6pt and 12 pt wrenches, and at least in craftsman raised panel wrenches, the 6pt seem to grip tighter and don't mark up the fastener corners indicating to me that they are "spreading the load" better than my c-man 12 pt's. If you have the luxury of SO or matco surface drive 12 pt's you don't have to worry about it as much
So it depends really on the tool and application itself as to what will be better
With a breaker bar, if I can get a 6pt on the fastener at a useful angle I'll use that first, but if I can't get the angle I'll go to a 12 pt.
I have both 6pt and 12 pt wrenches, and at least in craftsman raised panel wrenches, the 6pt seem to grip tighter and don't mark up the fastener corners indicating to me that they are "spreading the load" better than my c-man 12 pt's. If you have the luxury of SO or matco surface drive 12 pt's you don't have to worry about it as much
So it depends really on the tool and application itself as to what will be better
I have always thought 6pt would be less likely to round off a nut or head than 12pt if I pulled hard, and that is probably true, but I have used both types thousands of times for about 45 years and not had that problem. Also I have not seen much benefit of ease in putting the 12pt wrench on a nut. So, I don't think it makes much difference in practice.