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6 x 10 utility trailer build

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koditten

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Awesome job on the trailer and fantastic write up Kirk!!

I am in the process of preparing a build myself for a 5x12 utility trailer and you have helped me in a huge way! You didn't mention what type of welder you used nor whether you are mig or stick. I'm assuming mig. Can you comment on the tools you use?

One other thing.. just out of curiosity, do you have a rough idea of the length of steel that would go into one of your trailers? I don't have a place local to me that I can buy metal and have to travel ~150 miles so my plan is to purchase excess stock. Any rough bill of materials?

I guess I should have commented on my second most important tool. I use a Milwaukee Port a band for cutting almost all my steel. This get used alot as well. I would be lost with out that. I find myself thinking that I would like a fixed base band saw some day, then I **** can that idea. I can take the port a band to the work and it takes up so little space.

Later

Kirk
 
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koditten

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Jusy plain trailer safety chains. They come with large "ess" hooks. You can get them at most farm and big box stores or off the internet.

Kirk
 
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koditten

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Go back and look at some earlier posts. It shows my cheap and easy way of making solid tiedowns that dont get in the way.

Later

Kirk
 

Kentguy13

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Great build thread! I just finished a trailer for my own use. Converted an old pop-up trailer, its not as nice as your custom build... but it works great on my riding mower too.

I take it you build A LOT of these? What does the one in the build sell for (if you don't mind me asking) in your area?

ryan
 
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koditten

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Ryan:

Yes, I do build alot, I'm starting my 6th one since January. Around here I get 1300 give or take a bit. I will knock off 100 if it is preordered. It is always nice not having to deal with advertising to sell.

Kirk
 

NUTTSGT

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Just the 2 front corners. There is just single uprights in the back. There are no more braces. Once you get the 3 top rail pieces tied together, you will have all the bracing you will need.

This question brings back a memory. One of my customers was in an accicent involving a semi truck and trailer while towing one of my trailers. I don,' know the details, but I was tasked with replacing a fender and 2 of the side boards. You will love how solid this trailer feels.

Later

Kirk

Thank you.

Curious. Why Aluminum fenders ? I would assume they are more expensive than steel.

My guess, they're available locally, decent fenders, won't rust and making 1 less thing to paint.
 
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koditten

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Curious. Why Aluminum fenders ? I would assume they are more expensive than steel.

Actually, they are cheaper, money wise. They also take longer to install. Using metal fenders, I could just weld them to the frame side.

Lastly, when you build a trailer with the fenders on the outside, the fenders are more prone to experience trauma. It is easier in the long run to just unbolt and replace when an accident occurs.

I like the way they look, most of all.

Kirk
 

rocklobster

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Hey Nice build I like to see how others fab up things to learn a few tricks. I especially like your leverage method to drilling the sides.

Can you give some more information in to how you weld the axle center section, like how you get it straight so that the wheels track true?

And also are you welding a lug on the inside of the axle tube like a smaller diameter pipe first then the large pipe, or did you just cut the axle tube to shorten it, then slide the larger pipe over the center and weld it into place?

In your location what is the cost of materials for the entire trailer?

Again thanks for the build write up!
 
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koditten

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You should be able to put the things together for less than 1000, if you shop for deals.

As for making the axle strait, I just line it up with one of the cross member pieces. Slide the sleave on, sight along the cross member, give the tube the arch that you want. or not, start tack welding on opposite sided of the sleeve tube. You welds will want to pull the axle out of alignment. After you get a half dozen or so tacks in place, weld all the way around both ends of the sleeve.

Kirk
 

Piper

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Hi Kirk

Can you confirm the following for me? Your lengths helped but I just want to make sure I'm getting the right dimensions for the tube and angle iron. Here's what I think you've used.

Frame sides-118"
2" x 3" x 14 gauge stock

Frame ends-76"
2" x 3" x 14 gauge stock

Tongue-66"
2" x 3" x 1/8" wall stock

Tongue angle braces-52"
1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8" wall stock

Cross mebers-72" (5 angle steel, 1 tube steel)
1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8" angle
2" x 3" x 1/8" wall stock for tongue attachment (is this right?)

side uprights-22" (11)
1.5" x 3" x 14 gauge stock

top rail sides-80"
1.5" x 1.5" x 14 gauge stock

top rail end- 79"
1.5" x 1.5" x 14 gauge stock


thanks!
 
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koditten

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I think that "top rail, sides" is incorrect. That should be 125". I like to make them a bit longer than required, because the trailer main frame can sag during construction and this will make the required length shorter or longer. You can cut them off if they are a bit too long.

Depending on your desires, you could make everything 1/8" wall. I do a lot of welding and I still like welding the 1/8" stuff best. You don't have to be so careful of "burn thru".

Everything else looks correct.

Have fun.

KO
 

Piper

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thanks Kirk, I've tallied up all the lengths and am going to call my metal supplier to see what the cost is. I'll post just for everyone's info and I've decided to up to the 1/8" as I too like welding that vs the lighter stuff.
 

theoldwizard1

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The neighbor bought a similar trailer, but it is built like the proverbial "sh!t house" ! I'm certain it has a 3500# axle. The steel is pretty thick. Would you recommend 1/8" or 3/16" for a trailer with that capacity ?
 
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koditten

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It's up to the builder. All I can say, is anyone with a steel trailer is going to be happy with the extra thickness down the road. In my area, with our love affair with road salt, you can just sand blast the thing and repaint. You still got a good trailer.

The extra thickness is not going to add much more than 200 lbs to the total weight. If you need to keep weight down, use the thinner stuff. It takes the same amount of time to build it thinner or thicker.

My rule of thumb is "what is the one thing you can count on happening when you loan out your trailer?" Yep, you can count on it being overloaded.

I like having choices.

KO
 

Piper

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hi Kirk

I will take some pictures. Like you, I'm a 1 man operation and foolishly mentioned to 3 friends that I'm planning on building a 6x10 trailer. Needless to say, I now am building 1 trailer for myself and 2 others (likely 3 but the 3rd guy is always on the fence)...

Fortunately, they're pretty handy guys too so I said I'd do the welding, wiring and they can clean, paint and deck their own trailer. I don't mind doing it all but as it's gonna be an almost "freeby" job they can do the real grunt work. I'll take some shots for sure.
 
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V-10 Killer

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Nice build thread Kirk, too bad you didn't have pictures from building Jeff's dump trailer.
Now that thing is a beast lol.

I work at the same place as Kirk, he has a lot of trailers rolling around this area and nobody has ever had a negative thing to say about his build quality.
 
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koditten

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hi Kirk

I will take some pictures. Like you, I'm a 1 man operation and foolishly mentioned to 3 friends that I'm planning on building a 6x10 trailer. Needless to say, I now am building 1 trailer for myself and 2 others (likely 3 but the 3rd guy is always on the fence)...

Fortunately, they're pretty handy guys too so I said I'd do the welding, wiring and they can clean, paint and deck their own trailer. I don't mind doing it all but as it's gonna be an almost "freeby" job they can do the real grunt work. I'll take some shots for sure.

Please do take many pics. Looking forward to the final product. Do you have an idea what you are going to haul? You have many, many options on how to customize it.

KO
 

V-10 Killer

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Thanks for the kind words, V10K. Looks like I could be at work 6/20, nights, How about you?

KO

Yeah, I was there last night, and will be there tonight. Freakin' hot!
If you're around, stop by. I'll probably get a later start to let the weather cool off a bit.
 

Piper

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Hi Kirk

The 2 guys that I'm building for are both pretty hard workers and plan on hauling gravel, sand, stone, shingles.. all the heavy stuff. I've agreed to do the welding and wiring for them, they're gonna do paint and decking. I scored 4 wheels brand new on the weekend (P205-75-15's) for $119 each down from $189. I got the axles built from a local machine shop and with springs and couplers are $235 ea, the metal stock is $380 (per trailer). One of the trailers is a 6x10, the other is a 5x8, all welded with 1/8" stock.

My trailer is a 6x10 as well but like typical for any project I seem to do, the other 2 trailers have been pushed to the front of the line, mine's now number 3.

Do you have a rough idea of the time it takes you to fab up a trailer frame?(assuming that the stock is cut and ready to weld)

oh, 1 other thing, I have a 2 post Mohawk lift in my garage and I've just made some screw jack lift arm feet for it so that I can use the lift to function as my sawhorses. The screwjacks will allow me to level the frame 100% to make sure everything is plumb and square.

Stock should arrive today, but Saturday I'll be making sparks..:beer:
 

Piper

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Hi Kirk

quick question for you. Where do you end up hanging your license plate? In Ontario it stays they're supposed to be on the L side and lit. I see so many that are just zip tied to the ramp in some half assed way which I don't want to do.. any thoughts?
 

PCO6

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Piper - If it helps here's how I installed my "Ontario" plate. I hung it from the left fender using small 2 hinges and an aluminum backing plate. If it gets hit in any way it will "swing" vs. getting knocked off. It also acts as a mud flap (I have a "Jeep" plate on the right side).

I did not instal a light. I asked about that when I had it licensed by the MTO and the answer was "I don't think it needs one". I then asked "Is that because the plates are reflective" and the answer was "I guess so". Overall, I'm not very impressed by the way that our government goes about licensing home made trailers.

DSC_0508.jpg
 

PCO6

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^^^ You're more than welcome to it. I hope it works for your situation. Just don't take any flack from the MTO when you go to register your trailer(s). I mentioned this in another thread ... my trailer was only about half done when I got it licensed! :lol:
 
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koditten

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It takes me 4-5 hours to weld the trailer together as long as the steel is cut to size. Add another half hour to weld and attach the tailgate. Please don't think I'm bragging, I've built somewher close to 300 of this same trailer. I can do them in my sleep.

I like your idea of using the lift to start your frame.

We have the same laws here. The plate is supposed to be lit. I don't waste my time, seems like the police have other things to worry about. I just bolt the plate to the mesh on the tailgate with body panel washers to keep the bolts from pulling thru.

Looking forward to the pics.

KO
 

bad_idea

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I skimmed through the thread and must say, I'm impressed. How much does one of these trailers weigh? I am thinking it would be fun to build one and use for dragging stuff behind my Nissan Frontier, but the truck is only rated to tow 2000 lbs.
 
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koditten

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These trailers will end up around 850 lbs. They will actually end up a bit less after the lumber completely dries out. I have the 5 x 10 version and pull it with a v6 Toyota Tacoma for extended distances.

Be aware that the tall tailgates really grab the wind. If I pull the same trailer with a short tailgate I get about 17mpg at highway speeds. If I have the tall tailgate on the same trailer I will drop down to 13-14mpg at highway speeds. I is very noticable. I like the short tailgate the most and will just use ramps for the times I need to load up something that has wheels. Unfortunately the long gates sell much better. Gotta follow the money, if you know what I mean.

KO
 
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koditten

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Here is a few pics of the 5 x 10 w/ramp gate to haul my Case tractor. I built this one with the axle moved back 6". This allows me to have room in front of the tractor for random lawn care equipment.

This is an example of why I think the calculations for figuring out axle location is a waste of time. If you know what you are going to haul ahead of time, you can position your axle accordingly.

I don't care for this tailgate in general, but it does serve its purpose for hauling lawn equipment quite good. For an everyday trailer, I prefer the gate to be the same size as the sides. You all can make your own choices when it comes to gate length.

You can see how I mounted the plate. works good, you can see it in your mirror and it is protected from damage.

KO
 

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Mr onetwo

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Great trailer build!:bowdown: I am jumping in because of your Case tractor!:thumbup: Is that the only one you have?Looks to be late '70's 446. I have 2 444PK's, a 222 and a great little 648 FEL. Are you over on casecoltingersoll.com?
 
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koditten

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I believe the case is a 1976. I love my 30 year old tractor. Yes, I am a member or the case forum.
Glad to here from another case fan.
Later
Kirk
 

Piper

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Hey Kirk, can I ask you... do you do vertical up or vertical down welds on your trailers?

The reason I ask, I just bought a new Lincoln 256 and it welds great (or I do..) horizontally but I'm having a tough time getting my vertical welds to look nice. I think because this machine has more heat than my 110v one, and likely mostly my technique. I'm running 035 wire, 75-25 gas, around 18v and 230 wire speed, 1/8" thickness on all the stock, and trying to get vertical up to look good.

Any thoughts?
 
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koditten

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I always weld top to bottom.

On my my welder I use bout 19-20 on the amps and I can' remember what the setting is for the wire speed is. all I can remember is that the position for both rheastats are about the same. On my dial it looks like the 10:30-11:00 position. I honestly don't pay close attention to the dials. I just know when I need more or less heat/wire speed.

Does your machine have a low/high setting for the wire speed? I think I run mine on the low speed.

I'm at work now,so can't run out to the shop and give you more details. Hmmm, that would be a good pic to throw into my build. A quick shot of the welder setting could be helpful.

Kirk
 

MoonRise

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Hey Kirk, can I ask you... do you do vertical up or vertical down welds on your trailers?

The reason I ask, I just bought a new Lincoln 256 and it welds great (or I do..) horizontally but I'm having a tough time getting my vertical welds to look nice. I think because this machine has more heat than my 110v one, and likely mostly my technique. I'm running 035 wire, 75-25 gas, around 18v and 230 wire speed, 1/8" thickness on all the stock, and trying to get vertical up to look good.

Any thoughts?

Keeping in mind that -most- welder's dials/gauges/meters are not 100% 'calibrated' and as such should mostly be used as 'relative' reference readings (some machines may be more 'accurate', but most of the time as long as they are -consistent- you can use the numbers to get you close and then adjust as needed), I think you have your welding parameters a bit off there.

0.035 solid wire in short-circuit transfer mode with C25 gas would usually be about 16-17V and ~80 amps at 100 ipm WFS (a bit on the low side for welding 1/8 inch material), about 17-18V and ~120 amps at 150 ipm WFS (sounds just about right for welding 1/8 inch material), and 20-21V and ~175 amps at 250 ipm WFS (a bit on the 'hot' side for welding 1/8 inch material).

Vertical you usually will run at a slightly lower power setting (I'm purposely not using 'heat', as a lot of people call the voltage setting the 'heat' setting and that is not really correct, in wire-feed welding the voltage setting is the voltage setting and the WFS setting is the 'amperage' setting, but you have to have a 'correct' balance of the right voltage to use with the approximate amperage/WFS) than you would for horizontal welding, as you do have gravity working against you in the vertical or overhead welds. You still need enough power/amperage to get adequate fusion (penetration) for your welds, but you can't blast quite as much power/amperage as you could with a horizontal weld where gravity is not trying to drip the molten weld puddle out of the joint before it can solidify like when you are doing vertical or overhead welds.

Usually (excepting pipewelders running SMAW), most of the time vertical down is just used for 'thin' sheetmetal stuff, as you race the puddle downward with gravity so you are running pretty fast and thus not (usually) blasting right through the sheetmetal thin stuff.

Once you get away from 'gauge' thickness material and into thicker metal, vertical-up would usually be more appropriate, as you have enough material thickness that you are not quite as worried as instantly blasting right through the material as you weld and can build a small 'shelf' of weld-bead as you progress upwards with your weld. (not that you couldn't instantly blast right through some 1/8 inch steel, especially with a PM256!!)

YMMV, but I think you are just a bit 'off' in your parameters (a lot of the welding parameter charts/tables list CO2 as the shielding gas for short-circuit transfer mode by default and then in the footnote or fine-print remind you to use 1-2V less if using C25).

Using the general rule-of-thumb of 1 amp per 0.001 inch material thickness, you want ~125 amps for welding 1/8 inch thick material. That works out to around 200 ipm WFS for 0.035 solid wire, maybe a little bit less on the WFS/amperage because you are running vertically instead of horizontally (but not too low, remember about having adequate fusion/penetration!!!) So about 150-200 ipm WFS with that 0.035 solid wire, and adjust the voltage to about 18V or so (voltage too low and the wire stubs into the workpiece and voltage too high gives an unstable arc and excessive spatter, set the voltage midway between the two). Or set the voltage to 18V and the WFS to about 175 (since you have those nice meters on the PM256, eh? I'm jealous.) and run a few vertical-up test beads. Adjust slightly for machine 'quirks' (see above about most machine meters/gauges/dials not being 100% calibrated) as well as for personal preferences in how you run weld beads (fast-n-furious or slightly slower and more methodical).
 
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