60 gal air compressor in the basement,ideas?

[greenbikemike]

I will be using this more for air tools and a blasting cabinet
OK,here's my plan,
1.get the big s o b down the steps[I'm going to take it apart]
2.set'r on some treated wood
3.wire it with the off/on switch in the shop
4.run black 3/4 pipe [with shutoff and filter regulator and gauge]up the wall,T it and add a pressure relief valve at the top,then drill a hole to shop[attached to house]
5.once in shop,continue up the wall [another shutoff]to the ceiling and then a run with 3-4 drops back down the wall [each with shutoffs and filter regulator and gauge]and maybe one reel in the middle[yup,shutoff] and then one to a blast cabinet
[with filter regulator,gauge and water separator]

so,the run along the ceiling will be 40' or so,do l need to use risers at each drop and then a T and a drain valve at the bottom,or can I use a slight slope to a drain valve at the end of the run,also, water separators,do I need more then the one and where? how about the drain valve on tank?plumb it out and drain it once in a while?

Any and all comments or ideas welcome....
thanks,

Greenbikemike

 

[C96]

I will be using this more for air tools and a blasting cabinet
OK,here's my plan,

1.get the big s o b down the steps[I'm going to take it apart]

You’re on your own here! Good luck

2.set'r on some treated wood

I would use rubber isolation pads such as these or similar:

3.wire it with the off/on switch in the shop

Your compressor needs to have a mag starter for this or you need to wire in a relay.
I would not do the remote switch in the shop unless you have automatic tank and drip-leg drains. Without the remote switch, you are forced to the basement in order to turn off compressor, while there you then drain the tank, drip-legs, filters etc. do a quick visual of everything. This should be done on a daily biases, if you have the remote switch, the compressor gets ignored along with everything associated with it.

4.run black 3/4 pipe [with shutoff and filter regulator and gauge]up the wall,T it and add a pressure relief valve at the top,then drill a hole to shop[attached to house]

Don’t forget to add a drip-leg and a section of high pressure hose for vibration.

5.once in shop,continue up the wall [another shutoff]to the ceiling and then a run with 3-4 drops back down the wall [each with shutoffs and filter regulator and gauge]and maybe one reel in the middle[yup,shutoff] and then one to a blast cabinet
[with filter regulator,gauge and water separator]

so,the run along the ceiling will be 40' or so,do l need to use risers at each drop and then a T and a drain valve at the bottom,or can I use a slight slope to a drain valve at the end of the run,also, water separators,do I need more then the one and where? how about the drain valve on tank?plumb it out and drain it once in a while?

Make sure the horizontal runs are sloped to a drip-leg.
You need to have a drip-leg at every low point in the piping system, also at each service drop / point.
Yes, you must tee off the top of the main trunk line and then back down for the drops with of course a drip-leg at each one.
Again, as stated above, your system should be drained daily, all drip-legs, tank, filters etc. This is why I don’t recommend the remote switch, you’re forced to visit the compressor room and thus drain everything along with the visual inspection.

Good Luck

 

[greenbikemike]

Thanks for the great reply,thats why I joined up,great replies.....
I like the rubber pads....as for the on/off ,I'll have a dedicated line from the main box thats in the shop now,I don't want to go in the house and down the stairs everytime I need to turn it on,it won't be used daily and as for draining it or ignoring it,I'm down there 2-3 times a week,I'll keep an eye on it,I take care of my ****,I'm too cheap to buy stuff twice,hell,the air compressor that died on me is an Air King made in 1967....they just don't build stuff like that anymore.
I think I'm going to add a line in the basement too,might come in handy....
more ideas welcome,
thanks again.....

Greenbikemike

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Modern treated wood eats steel. Basements are typically damp/high humidity.
Typically the Tees for the drops face up then turn back down. This reduces picking up water from the bottom of the horizontal runs. A drip leg and drain is always a good idea at the drops.

 

[Garage Dog]

greenbikemike,

Just so you know you can use the search function on the tool bar above to search old treads. There are many threads on this topic.

This http://cached.tptools.com/RS/SR/collection/72/col_2035_T_17fcb914.jpg should link you to a general schematic and description from the TP Tools website that will give you a visual of what you are basically trying for. The combinations are endless.

Keep in mind if you are having the compressor in the basement - I would have a vertical drain stub/leg and valve coming off a T next to the compressor so that moisture that drains back to the basement/compressor is not all draining back into the compressor tank (receiver).

Water separators are most effective when air is allowed to cool (allowing moisture in the air to condense) before it hits the separator. Lots of ways to cool air that is heated by the compression process but if you are just letting it cool by running it through pipe, 25 ft seems to be mentioned often. Again the search function will give you many threads on this.

Good Luck

GD

 

[volleyball]

I have my 2 stage in my basement. Luckily it was a step up to the basement floor from the outside. It came on a pallet and it is still resting on that pallet. On the concrete floor. Still solid.
You don't have to drain the tank every day. It depends on when the pump goes on. So if you aren't using it for 2 weeks, it doesn't need draining. also it seems that you have way less water with it being in a cool basement.
I have a switch to power mine. That way, small usage a few times doesn't kick it on. And so what if pressure drops to say 60 psi.
Pipe will leak so I use the shutoff at the tank. The closer to the tank the shutoff, the less leakage.

 

[James_B]

I will be using this more for air tools and a blasting cabinet
OK,here's my plan,
1.get the big s o b down the steps[I'm going to take it apart]

You’re on your own here! Good luck

I used to have my 60 gallon 3 cylinder compressor in the garage. It was only a few feet from the switchboard. The floor was a concrete slab. Everything was so simple ... and then we moved.

The garage at the new place is totally unsuitable for the compressor, with a wooden plank floor that's on a slope, and the garage is about as far from the switchboard as it is possible to be ...

I thought for a while about installing my compressor in the basement as it would make the wiring so simple ... but having manhandled my compressor into and out of a U-Haul truck for the move, the thought of trying to get mine safely down into my basement, even after disassembly, scares the bejesus out of me.

I wish you luck.

 

[strtcar]

Are you planning on building a box around it or enclosing it to reduce noise?

 

[volleyball]

My Puma is quieter than the washing machine. The pallet and flex air line go a long way in reducing vibration noise.

 

[WhoWhatNow]

I did exactly what you are planning on doing. Quincy 5hp 80 gallon in the basement wired with a 5 hp motor rated switch in the garage with the air piped into the garage with 3/4" black pipe. If you are going to switch the motor in the garage make sure you use a switch rated for the hp of your compressor. A regular switch will not handle the full load. Also I would suggest wiring a light that comes on when you turn the compressor on. This way it is hard to forget that the compressor is on before leaving the shop for the day. I also have a solenoid controlled ball valve coming off of the compressor which is also switched in the garage. This way I can turn the distribution system on/off from the garage as well. Easy to service the distribution system and the compressor tank will not empty if you have a small leak somewhere (Still chasing one down on mine).

Also I have mine sitting on a 4 X 6 piece of horse stall mat I got from Tractor Supply. Keeps it from walking.

As far as getting it down there rent/borrow/steal a furniture mover dolly. The kind with wheels for going down stairs and a strap. Lay it flat on the ground then put the tank (w/ motor and pump removed) on top. Strap it down and wheel it down the stairs. I had movers at my house for a different reason and this is how they did it. Took them all of 10 minutes with no drama.

 

[volleyball]

The tank is no problem. It is not that heavy. I have a spare and moved it many time by myself. The pump is where the weight is. The motor is also heavy but lighter and easier to grab.
I would consider leaving it intact and build a slide on the staircase, Along with a pulley system to slide it down. Just drain the oil first and refill before you start it.

 

[greenbikemike]

Thanks for all the great replies....I did do a seach before my original post,thats where I got most of my ideas.....I just wanted to see if was missing anything or something I should add.....seems I missed a few.....and a couple I should add....thanks

Greenbikemike

 

[BDT/NWMN]

I have two; a 60 gal and an 80gal in my downstairs heated and dehumidified utility room.... Located in the shop is a shutoff switch wired in series with the pressure switch for each compressor..... The pressure switch is wired to a magnetic relay switch; which switches the current load to the motor..... Therefore; no big whopper wires and switch required for an isolated switch... Compressors are four steps from the service entrance panel, and each compressor has a dedicated circuit........ Sure makes it peaceful and quiet in the shop.....

 

[greenbikemike]

I have two; a 60 gal and an 80gal in my downstairs heated and dehumidified utility room.... Located in the shop is a shutoff switch wired in series with the pressure switch for each compressor..... The pressure switch is wired to a magnetic relay switch; which switches the current load to the motor..... Therefore; no big whopper wires and switch required for an isolated switch... Compressors are four steps from the service entrance panel, and each compressor has a dedicated circuit........ Sure makes it peaceful and quiet in the shop.....

I think I got the piping down now and I have a few bud's that are going to "hook me up" with the wiring,thankfully.....I'm in the market for a welder too so I need a bit more then I want to tackle....or know what the hell I'm doing.
As for "quiet and peaceful"...hell,not in my shop....got the tunes going...
thanks again,
Greenbikemike

 

[89GLH]

I left mine on the pallet the shipped it to me on, and put the antivibration pads under the pallet on the concrete. I can get to the drain better this way. Then I plumbed up a small 3/8 tube under the garage door to the trench drain in front of the door, so when I purge the tank the water has somewhere to go. Just need an auto drain valve and Im set.