60 inch bar clamp info needed

[jacric2005]

Recommendations on a 60 inch bar clamp? I have 2X6's totaling 55 inches that need to be clamped in order to screw on the side pieces, part of the barn (stall) door project. So far, it seems the good bar clamp brands only go up to 48 inches.

Thanks

 

[The Cobbler]

get a set of pipe clamps and get any lenght pipe you need https://www.homedepot.com/b/Tools-H...Clamps-Vises-Clamps/Pipe/N-5yc1vZc266Z1z0r0c4

 

[shelteredV]

a length of 3/4" pipe and some Jorgensen ends will hold it together
or put a couple of 36" clamps together

 

[454ragtop]

Can you do it with a ratchet strap?

 

[SRSemenza]

Bessey parallel bar clamps go to 60" (84" and 96" as well). Expensive though.

Seth

 

[LeeG]

I’ve got 60” Jet bar clamps, but I’d really recommend 3/4” schedule 40 or 80 steel pipe and some Bessy or old Pony pipe clamps. I make my pipe clamps with 4’ sections of pipe and add couplers if I need to go longer.

 

[Git]

Bessey makes an extender that will allow you to join two of their K body bar clamps. (I actually have 4 extenders and they do come in handy)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014A44Y8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[glend123]

I'd buy the pipe clamps. you can get any length of pipe you want at the home centers.

 

[Git]

One advantage of using pipe clamps is they are cheap. I never had much luck using them - they just never worked that well for me. Bessey calls their K Body clamps "parallel" clamps for a reason. The jaws are parallel. That means if you're gluing up a face frame, etc you don't have to worry for the most part that the clamp is going to flex and now your glue-up is going to come out straight, unless you start adding other clamps to keep it flat.

I would rather pay the money once and have less aggravation. Nothing like starting to glue something together and then run into problems with the clamps

 

[bob15]

Dubuque Clamp Works. They are aluminum, light, very strong and great to use. Amazon, HJE and many woodworker stores sell them

https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-ABAR.**/Universal_Bar_Clamps

 

[catalytic]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y43JN62/?tag=atomicindus08-20

^^ Bessey I-beam bar clamps go up in 6" or 12" increments to at least 96" and maybe more. They are based on the now defunct Jorgensen version, which look the same. They make all other clamps look like toys. I have a full set of the Jorgensen, and they're fantastic. The only downside is that they're heavy. Most pro cabinet shops around here use these in large quantities. If you want the best...

Edit: The Dubuque linked to above are excellent, too... Not quite as much clamping power, but way lighter. I'd actually be tempted to pick those for ease of use. Now, if you want to pull the whole barn over a few inches, the Bessey I-Beam's will do it without blinking...

 

[kctyphoon]

Black pipe and the pony clamps.. its cheap, they work just fine.. best part is that with the pony clamps (pick your brand) if you have a few of them, then you have any clamp size you ever need. You can have pipe cut to any length and swap the clamps over. If the pipe “bending” is a concern, just use clamps on both sides of the project and ease up on the tension a little. Pony clamps work just fine.

Take into consideration that the “expensive” clamps are usually used by people doing fine woodworking, furniture, - thats not you, and they really aren’t necessary. Those are the “there is no better option” clamps, where you pay a ton of money for a slight difference the average person never really needs. Its like the snap on socket vs Gearwrench socket, and will joes honda know the difference.

Unplaned 2 by lumber for a barn project doesn’t “need” the same clamps as a guy building custom furniture. Just MHO..

BUT- if you want a cheap 60” bar clamp option - you can get them at harbor freight for like $16 and $17 each depending which one

https://www.harborfreight.com/60-in-aluminum-bar-clamp-60594.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/60-in-aluminum-f-style-bar-clamp-60673.html

They have pipe clamp options as well. Like 8.99 for the 3/4” models without the feet on them.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Use schedule 80 pipe for the clamps. It is much more rigid than 40 and will not bow under pressure that the schedule 40 will. Not a whole lot more but a lot harder to find. I cut and threaded my own in 1/2 and 3/4 pipe and have all my clamps with heaver pipe. The most rigid clamps I have are the Pony parallel clamps that have pipes on both sides. You can torque them and they never bow.

 

[bob15]

Problem with black pipe is you must clean the black **** off the outside before you use it. Yes you can use galvanized pipe, but the clamps don't always grab hold very good and they will slide. And then if you go schedule 80 in larger lengths, the weight and cost of the pipe can make aluminum bar clamps a better option.

 

[icthruu74]

I just run a strip of masking tape over the pipe before use. Makes cleanup easier too if you have glue squeezeout.

I’ve got old pony, HF, and some Irwin’s. The pony’s are well worth a few extra $, the HF work and haven’t given me any issues. The Irwin’s don’t screw on to the end and I’ve had them pop off when tightening. I like pipe clamps just for the reason that I can use shorter or longer pieces of pipe based on what I’m doing, and they’re pretty cheap overall.

 

[driftpin]

I've acquired probably a couple-dozen 3/4" pipe clamps, Pony brand for the most part, or the Sears ones. I use galvanized pipe, never tried the black iron. I have a pair of 10 ft pipes I used to make cedar hot tubs back in the 1970's/early '80's, and they gave me good results. I have acquired a Ridgid 3/4" NPT die to cut my own threads. I have a few bar clamps too, but I usually just size the work and pick whatever clamp closely-matches it.

A recent garage sale acquisition, 4' X 3/4" galvanized pipe.