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'64 Binks compressor - Free!

RivennHewn

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Free is always good.

Wonder how much it's going to cost me.
 

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RivennHewn

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More pics
 

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CNGsaves

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Never had heard of Binks compressor before . . . what are the specs??

Looks like durable industrial compressor but tank is small. Is that 40 gallon??
 

WWIIjeep

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Definitely a great score. Binks compressors were top-notch back then. The pump is actually a Quincy.

I can't quite make out all of the model number in your photo. Looks like it might be 33-1016? If so, it's a 2-stage 1 HP, 140-175 PSI, rated at 5.8 CFM displacement and 4.0 CFM delivery If not that, post the model number and I can give you the specs.

Both Binks and Quincy are still in business, although they don't necessarily support all of their older products.
 
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RivennHewn

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it is a single phase dual voltage motor with 20/10 HP.

Model number 33-518
type 33-1019

Under the sawdust, greasy, oily coating, it almost looks like new.

The tank had a lot of water in it, which is concerning.

Where would I look to find someone to test the tank?

I'll have my electrician look at it on Monday.

If the tank checks out and motors good, I'll start looking into a rebuild

of the pump.

Should be a fun project!
 

zkling

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it is a single phase dual voltage motor with 20/10 HP.

Model number 33-518
type 33-1019

Under the sawdust, greasy, oily coating, it almost looks like new.

The tank had a lot of water in it, which is concerning.

Where would I look to find someone to test the tank?

I'll have my electrician look at it on Monday.

If the tank checks out and motors good, I'll start looking into a rebuild

of the pump.

Should be a fun project!


Free is always nice. Your comment of "How much is this going to cost me" made me laugh. So true, some of the most expensive projects are one that we aquire for nothing. :bounce:

Are you sure on the 10/20hp thing with the motor. That does not look like a 20hp motor or a 20hp compressor. Looks like ~ 40gal horizontal tank. Plus a motor that large would have multiple drive belts.

Post a better pic of the motor plate and compress plate. Looks like a nice unit for free. What is the background story on it?

I think this is a manual for it

http://www.sistemasparapintar.com.mx/boletines/binks/1767r-2.pdf
 

WWIIjeep

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it is a single phase dual voltage motor with 20/10 HP.

Model number 33-518
type 33-1019

I think you might have the motor amps mixed up with the motor horsepower.

33-518 is a single-stage two-cylinder pressure-lubricated (Quincy) pump, rated for 1 or 1-1/2 HP and 100 PSI maximum pressure.

With a 1 HP motor, pump speed 510 RPM, displacement 5.8 CFM, actual air delivery 3.8 CFM @ 100 PSI.

With a 1-1/2 HP motor, pump speed 810 RPM, displacement 9.2 CFM, actual air delivery 6 CFM @ 100 PSI.


Where would I look to find someone to test the tank?

Ideally you should have it professionally inspected and hydrotested regardless of what anyone may suggest for do-it-yourself testing. Look for "hydrostatic testing services" in the yellow pages, ThomasNet.com or Google.
 
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RivennHewn

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zkling:

Thanks for the link.

Here is the plate:

Looks like I was reading it wrong
 

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theoldwizard1

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The tank had a lot of water in it, which is concerning.
Yeah, I would want to get that tank 'scoped and pressure tested.

If the tank checks out and motors good, I'll start looking into a rebuild
of the pump.

Clean it, change the oil and fire it up. If it is not making any knock sounds don't waste you time and money on a rebuild.
 
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RivennHewn

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The compressor was abandoned in an old 1920's building.

A developer bought the building, and the company I work for restored it.

The last tenant was a Hard Hat Supply, and before that it was a marine parts warehouse.

Who owned it, and what it was used for I don't know.
 

metaldad

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nw indiana
The compressor was abandoned in an old 1920's building.
Who owned it, and what it was used for I don't know.

Probably served the building, as the source of compressed air for a pneumatic temperature control system. There may be moisture removal components bolted to a wall or shelf somewheres.
 

CNGsaves

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Yeah, I would want to get that tank 'scoped and pressure tested.

Clean it, change the oil and fire it up. If it is not making any knock sounds don't waste you time and money on a rebuild.

^ ^ ^ This. Clean her up, change oil, check belt tension, and see how she runs. Don't forget to also clean out the air cleaner.

Let us know how quick it fills once you fire it up, and whether it passes the leak down test.

Again . . . . . . YOU **** !!
 

theknurl

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Ideally you should have it professionally inspected and hydrotested regardless of what anyone may suggest for do-it-yourself testing. Look for "hydrostatic testing services" in the yellow pages, ThomasNet.com or Google.

my 40 gal 1946 dated tank rusted through.....at the drain bung....welding stress made it rust there faster
jacked it up, cleaned the area and MIG welded it back in...:thumbup:

that was 20 years ago

when tanks rust out.....they get a pin holes.....and leak BFD
 
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RivennHewn

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Got my electrician to rewire the compressor for 115V.

Plugged it in and it runs sooooo smooth and quiet.

Still need to get the tank looked at, but I'm loving it!
 
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