6d nails on OSB

[mod600]

So I'm hoping to start sheeting the interior walls of my shop with 1/2" OSB soon. It's a 32x64 pole barn building, I have a divider wall, so I have a 32x32 shop and the other side is cold storage. My divider wall is a 2x6 stud wall and I have that wall all ready sheeted. The other three walls in the shop side, I plan to run the OSB horizontally. I have 2x4 blocking/purlins to support/back all four sides of the OSB. I planned to use 8d galvanized nails. These worked just fine on the divider wall. Except I noticed where I had some horizontal blocking that I added for future shelf supports, the 8d nails would break thru the 2x4 backer. So I'm wondering where I have the 2x4 blocking, would it be better to use 6d nails to keep from punching thru the 2x4 backer, or am I better off sticking to the 8d and not worrying about them going thru. No one is going to see it, just curious on holding power...obviously if going to 6d, I should run the spacing closer to make up for the smaller nails. Thought I'd see what you guys thought.
Thanks!
mod600

 

[csp]

If the blocking is just there so you have a place to add shelving what does it matter if the nails blow through? If you hadn't added the blocking there wouldn't be anything there to nail to in the first place.

The actual framing of the building is where your holding power and nailing matters.

 

[mod600]

I guess I'm just asking am I better off using 8d nails that punch thru my 2x4 blocking or 6d nails that don't punch thru? Will a smaller nail that is full embedded in the blocking hold more than on that goes all the way thru? Probably over thinking it and doesn't matter either way...

 

[PugetDude]

6D nails are fine for 15/32" OSB. You don't need to decrease spacing, it's just interior sheeting.

 

[tcianci]

Technically, the nail that has the most surface area in the wood has the greatest holding power. Since the 8 D nail has 1-1/2 inches of it's shank in contact with the blocking it has slightly more holding power than the 6. It's not the length of the nail, it's the length of the nail embedded in the wood. IN reality, go with which ever nail you're able to buy more cheaply. There's plenty of holding power for the application. And BTW, the word is SHEATHING, not sheeting.

 

[Radix2]

Technically, the nail that has the most surface area in the wood has the greatest holding power. Since the 8 D nail has 1-1/2 inches of it's shank in contact with the blocking it has slightly more holding power than the 6. It's not the length of the nail, it's the length of the nail embedded in the wood. IN reality, go with which ever nail you're able to buy more cheaply. There's plenty of holding power for the application. And BTW, the word is SHEATHING, not sheeting.

It also has to do with the surface area - and the 8 is bigger diameter as well, so substantially more power - agree with your conclusions though...

 

[tcianci]

It also has to do with the surface area - and the 8 is bigger diameter as well, so substantially more power - agree with your conclusions though...

Right you are!

 

[mod600]

Thanks for the info... I already have a bunch of 8d nails bought, but if the 6d made more sense, they're unopened boxes, so I could exchange them. I'll probably stick with the 8d route...

 

[csp]

I'll say it again. The blocking you added is superfluous. The nails into the actual framing of the shop are where it matters. Nails into the blocking are just icing on the cake.