You're not in the Midwest rust belt. Go through a few Ohio winter's and then ask that.I only go to 6-point when something goes wrong. Why do people let fasteners rust?
I deal with plenty around here.I deal with rusty fasteners from time to time.
Michigan too. Up here, there's no way around it, even if your car/truck is garaged.You're not in the Midwest rust belt. Go through a few Ohio winter's and then ask that.![]()
Wait, you live in Hawaii. No wonder you have never seen rust.I only go to 6-point when something goes wrong. Why do people let fasteners rust?
Fasteners are like teenagers. Telling them not to makes them want to even more.I only go to 6-point when something goes wrong. Why do people let fasteners rust?
Just to give the guy's that think Flank Drive is a S-O god like item they need to remember S-O stole it from Bonney tools as they invented Loc-Rite and S-O had to pay them after the court case was found they had copied Bonney's patents.With respect to the "flank drive" comment made above all current 12 point sockets that I've seen since Snap-On's patent ran out a long time ago are flank drive. This is true with all modern 12 point wrenches as well.
Gillette or Schick? I'm a twelve-point guy, my dad was a twelve-point guy.
Eight point ratchet with an eight point extension should do the trick.Hay guys, what kind of tool do I need to operate my 8 point sockets?
I have a brand-new set of six-point sockets I will trade for Snap-On twelve points.I wish there were more people who preferred 12 points in my area. I'd happy trade my extra 12 point sockets for 6 point sockets.
Brilliant answer!Eight point ratchet with an eight point extension should do the trick.
Another brilliant answer!Fasteners are like teenagers. Telling them not to makes them want to even more.
On smaller sizes they are USELESS !Unless you have 12 points bolts nuts, 12 points is so undesirable.
On smaller sizes they are USELESS !
About 50 years ago, I went all 6 point. If I ever need a 12 point, I will buy it !
It's a self checkout thing.I respect your knowledge. Why do you say 12 point is useless on smaller sizes?
This has to be one of the most discussed topics on Garage Journal, choose one or the other or both. There is no magic answer only specific application situations. This is something like the "does the ground go up up or down on receptacles?". Just for fun I did a search (something most people never do) on 6pt vs 12pt and it came back with 18 pages of results.
1+2+3=3%What amazes me is that there are clear “best practices” that no one seems to follow, and that is wild to me.
1) Aviation uses 12 point fasteners frequently. So in aviation, 12 point sockets are needed.
2) In areas of limited access, 12 point sockets offer distinct advantages compared to 6 point sockets. There are automotive applications for this.
3) If the 12 point socket fits the fastener snug, there is limited risk of rounding the fastener. This never seems to be discussed.
4) If access isn’t an issue, there is less risk of rounding fasteners with 6 point sockets.
I feel like I'm the only one not impressed by Thor.Oddly, impact sockets are where 12 point are most valuable to me since I use an impact to remove 12 point head bolts. Most recent example has been my best friend's F350 6.0 Diesel which in spite of having all of Bulletproof Diesel's modifications which include using ARP studs he still managed to burn a hole through a piston quite honestly though his own shear stupidity. A 12 point 11/16" socket and the mighty THOR impact was needed to remove the nuts from these studs which are torqued to 210 ft-lb on this engine. These are a true ball-buster to remove with a breaker bar.
What amazes me is that there are clear “best practices” that no one seems to follow, and that is wild to me.
1) Aviation uses 12 point fasteners frequently. So in aviation, 12 point sockets are needed.
2) In areas of limited access, 12 point sockets offer distinct advantages compared to 6 point sockets. There are automotive applications for this.
3) If the 12 point socket fits the fastener snug, there is limited risk of rounding the fastener. This never seems to be discussed.
4) If access isn’t an issue, there is less risk of rounding fasteners with 6 point sockets.
What makes you think these are not followed, let alone by anyone?
So your not knowing means no one else knows either?The fact that there are 18 pages of discussion on the topic and that every tool catalog I have seen fails to show ideal applications for each.
25 years ago, I didn’t know the answer to 12 point vs 6 point when I was buying my first Facom sets and had to make this decision. I bought the 12 point sets, btw.
Because sockets can be rotated into position easier than a wrench.I've always wondered why nobody complains about 12 point wrenches but they consider 12 point sockets the instruments of the devil. I use some ARP hardware and they're 12 point so I obviously need to have 12 point sockets. The same is true of many head bolts (Subaru). Now I live in Phoenix so rust isn't an issue but back when I lived in Pittsburgh, during a time that I refer to as the Dark Ages, almost everybody had 12 point sockets and we used salt up the wazu. When did this six point fetish become predominate?
You forgot the infamous Toyota head bolt double hex and the VW Ribe. The double hex looks like an XZN but the angles are different.Because sockets can be rotated into position easier than a wrench.
BTT:
12-point are probably OK for larger sockets (i.e. typical sizes that use 1/2" drive or larger), since there is more contact area. But for anything in the 1/4" to 3/8" drive range, 6-point will be better for 6-point fasteners. Smaller 12-point sockets will be more likely to round off the fastener. However, 12-point sockets are needed for 12-point fasteners.
A complete set would consist of:
6-point shallow - Metric
6-point shallow - Inch
6-point deep - Metric
6-point deep - Inch
12-point shallow - Metric
12-point shallow - Inch
12-point deep - Metric
12-point deep - Inch
Double Square
E-Torx
E-Torx Plus
Spline - which is compatible with (mostly) all of the above, but not the best solution for anything except spline fasteners.
Then of course there's chrome and impact variants, as well as bit sockets and drag links. And all of these are available in different drive sizes. Oh yeah, don't forget about pass-through sockets. There's probably more than I'm forgetting.
If fundage is an issue, start with Spline, and go from there. Stick to impact for 1/2" drive sockets (and larger) for further savings.
So your not knowing means no one else knows either?
Thread seems to indicate the exact opposite of what you're saying. Tool catalogs probably figure it doesn't take much intellect to know when to use a 6 vs 12.
They said modern high tooth ratchets took care of the accessibility issue. All of them I know use 6 point sockets and only use 12 point sockets on 12 point fasteners.I once asked a few old US auto mechanics with 30+ years experience this exact question.
Your are Not the only one.It seems that I am not the only one. If I was the only one, there would not be 18 pages of discussion surrounding this subject on just this one forum.
Well, fasteners that use smaller heads generally require less torque, so I'd guess the 12-point sockets are fine in 95% of situations. Actually, I have all 6-point sockets for all of the large-size fasteners. Everything over 3/4" get's a 6-point socket consistently. Why? Because the torque needed to loosen (or tighten) them is much higher. 6-point sockets are less likely to slip or break at those higher torques than 12-point.Because sockets can be rotated into position easier than a wrench.
BTT:
12-point are probably OK for larger sockets (i.e. typical sizes that use 1/2" drive or larger), since there is more contact area. But for anything in the 1/4" to 3/8" drive range, 6-point will be better for 6-point fasteners. Smaller 12-point sockets will be more likely to round off the fastener. However, 12-point sockets are needed for 12-point fasteners.
A complete set would consist of:
6-point shallow - Metric
6-point shallow - Inch
6-point deep - Metric
6-point deep - Inch
12-point shallow - Metric
12-point shallow - Inch
12-point deep - Metric
12-point deep - Inch
Double Square
E-Torx
E-Torx Plus
Spline - which is compatible with (mostly) all of the above, but not the best solution for anything except spline fasteners.
Then of course there's chrome and impact variants, as well as bit sockets and drag links. And all of these are available in different drive sizes. Oh yeah, don't forget about pass-through sockets. There's probably more than I'm forgetting.
If fundage is an issue, start with Spline, and go from there. Stick to impact for 1/2" drive sockets (and larger) for further savings.
Where does one find sloppy **** HF 6 point sockets since with the exception of ICON, which are very good, HF only sells 12 point sockets?Your are Not the only one.
You bought better tools that is the difference - one cannot compare horror freight to Facom or Hazet, or the over glorified snap on. The tolerances and quality are not even close. Better quality 12 point tools fit the fastener much better than sloppy **** HF 6 point ones. The other fact is that in today's world there are MANY more applications where a 12 point is the ONLY tools that will work. Try using a "6 point is king" wrench when reaching inside a multi engine helicopter in where you have to work by feel and cannot see due to the confined spaces - let me know how that works.
One style or brand is not a solution to all.
One style or brand is not a solution to all.