To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

70 Chevelle floor Pan

kc10a

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2008
Messages
49
Location
McHenry, MS (Gulf Coast))
I have a 1970 Chevelle that needs to have the floor and trunk pan replaced. I bought a complete floor pan and a trunk pan, both with braces. What would be a reasonable price to have then replaced. I could strip the body down and take it off the frame and take it to a shop. I just don't trust my welding enough. If anyone has an idea what it would cost, I'd love a ball park amount. Thanks.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

nickelmore

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2015
Messages
319
Location
50 miles from Chicago
If you do take it off the frame make sure that you brace the door opening.

There are a number of way's to do that but with the frame and floor removed it is structurally weak.

Is it a one piece pan for the floor?

Can't help on $$ we have only done it in house on our own projects. Most of the labor time was spent drilling out the old spot welds and removing the old pieces.
 

Kaizen

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Messages
6,948
Location
New England
rough guess 4-5k just in labor. the rockers need to be peeled back as the floor pan is sandwiched between the inner and outer rocker. both need to be slipped in from underneath as they won't fit in through openings. so the car does need to come off the frame BUT the new floors should be inserted and attached to that frame with new bushings then the body lowered onto it. those old bodies are never square even when new they had play in the tolerances so fit the body to the new floors.
 

Jazz1

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 3, 2016
Messages
4,184
Location
Thunder Bay On.
You should do it yourself. Good a time as any to improve welding skills. Its just a floor that will be unseen once carpeted. I did floor pans on '68 firebird, different animal but just as time consuming. Most miserable job I ever done but shop charges $1000 per side 20 years ago. On my '48 sedan delivery I made floor pans and 9 of the floor braces.
 

Attachments

  • Thunder Bay-20140309-00120.jpg
    Thunder Bay-20140309-00120.jpg
    140.8 KB · Views: 103
  • Thunder Bay-20140330-00165 - Copy.jpg
    Thunder Bay-20140330-00165 - Copy.jpg
    138.7 KB · Views: 89
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Kaizen

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Messages
6,948
Location
New England
Yes, it is 2 pieces, complete with braces. When it was done in house, about how many hours did it take? How did you brace the door opening?



If your floor does not have rockers and yours are solid you don't need to brace it on a coupe. Any bracing will get in the way doing this job. I would cut out the trunk on the frame and cross brace both ways from inner wheel well brace to tail panel to keep the quarters from tweaking when lifted. Lift the rear at the x of the bracing. This is not really a welding project but more of a cutting,spot weld cutting, and grinding job. The welding is just spotwelds nothing fancy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Heavy Metal Doctor

Well-known member
Joined
May 26, 2010
Messages
5,417
Location
Mason Dixon Line
Dang, I work cheap!! I did the cut-out and weld in for floors / trunk for a buddy in his 69 Firebird and all I got was 2 days lost time from my own projects and a couple free lunches!!
 

countryroad82

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 18, 2011
Messages
3,447
Location
Kentucky
Doing full floors isn't really cheap at my shop, but I'm not the most expensive either. I charge anywhere from $2,000-$$3,000 depending on how much I've actually got to do. It's labor intensive, but not really all that hard. If you want to learn to weld, floors are what I recommend all newbs to try first as you can't really screw them up.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom