75a 120v Inverter Stick Welder

[AldeanFan]

Is there any reason for me to buy a small 120v 75amp stick welder for $150?

I have never learned to stick weld, I can mig pretty well and have a Lincoln 140 with a bottle.

I have accumulated some gift cards and was considering buying this welder to practice with, and it would be much more portable than my Lincoln.

Is this a silly waste of money?


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[johninct]

It could be handy for an odd job where you only have 110. But 75 max amps is too low. I set mine between 90 and 110. I am sure the duty cycle is also too low. I would not buy it.

 

[malibu101]

75 amps is very low for "normal" stick work. You'd probably be running at max amps, which equals max duty cycle.

I'm not just jumping on the buy big bandwagon, but this little machine will surely be an exercise in frustration and ultimately lead to purchasing a larger machine.

Almost anything you can do with a small stick at 75 amps, you can probably do with your MIG.

 

[sberry]

It is super limiting with the electrodes. New about 250$ maybe for a generic import like Longevity or Everlast.

 

[MoonRise]

75 amps is very low for "normal" stick work. You'd probably be running at max amps, which equals max duty cycle.

I'm not just jumping on the buy big bandwagon, but this little machine will surely be an exercise in frustration and ultimately lead to purchasing a larger machine.

Almost anything you can do with a small stick at 75 amps, you can probably do with your MIG.

tech correction:

Running a machine at max output means you get the MINIMUM duty cycle out of the machine.

I agree that a 120 V SMAW machine with a 75 amp max output will be rather limiting in what you can do with it.

Most likely it will limit you to running a max of 3/32" electrodes (not a big problem there, it is still a 'standard' size and relatively available in different electrode brands and types), but you will still be running the machine at its max output (or darn close) and will have a short duty cycle (with a 'small' diameter rod to boot). Weld a bit, wait several minutes, weld a bit, wait several minutes, etc.

Your call on whether the machine's power (amperage) and duty cycle and rod size usability limitations override the portability factor.

Step up a bit with your budget and there are some 120/240 V inverter stick welders available. Gives you the portability of a small inverter stick machine, and the power option of running on 240 V when you want/need more power yet still have the option to do some welding with 120 V power (at a reduced welding amperage, using smaller diameter rods, etc)

 

[sberry]

Step up a bit with your budget and there are some 120/240 V inverter stick welders available. Gives you the portability of a small inverter stick machine, and the power option of running on 240 V when you want/need more power yet still have the option to do some welding with 120 V power (at a reduced welding amperage, using smaller diameter rods, etc)

This is pretty solid advice if there is any potential to get 240V. There is a lot of opinion about small rods but I don't like it, so fussy about arc length. The super small machines are designed for 3/32 6011. Not really 13 which has a higher current requirement. 3/32 7018 is really good and 1/8 6011 which these inverters will run on 120 makes them really useful.
6011 has lowest current of them all but its fussier in smaller size, if a guy is a regular not so bad but part timers have some trouble, it looks tiny and the designer 1/16 are absolutely useless.

 

[matt_i]

If you can run DC+ on the mini machine and you have heavy metal to weld, then absolutely a stick welder can go where a mig cannot. Love what those 7018s can do.

 

[AldeanFan]

Thanks for the replies. It was what I expected.
I think I’ll pass on this one.


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[Brand X]

Little units like the Klutch 120 volt stick welder output 90 amps solid. Says 75 on the dial.(rated 90 peak) My little Thermal PeeWEE 85s outputs about 95 dc amps. 95s was about 105 amps.. 110 +solid on my 161i Thermal.I use a Tektonics amp meter to check them..Also my other machines like the Little INE with meters backs that up too. The Little Klutch was $124.99 and just a nice little unit..well not a little as the INE or original Sanrex. Looks large in the pic,s but 7 pounds is not too bad..

They will burn most 3/32 rods well..

AS far as 6013, Esab has LV rod for picky inverters. All these have high enough OCV to run the standard stuff.. Larger 6010 rod like 1/8 is where the INE 240 volt shines.. You could not stick a rod if you tried.

 

[William Payne]

I can fart more amps than that. Why do companies make such weak machines for the 120volt market?

I personally would not bother on something so low amperage. My apologies but 120volt machines just seem so limiting unless you are doing very very light work.

 

[malibu101]

tech correction:

Running a machine at max output means you get the MINIMUM duty cycle out of the machine.

Yes. Thanks for the correction.

 

[sberry]

I can fart more amps than that. Why do companies make such weak machines for the 120volt market?

I personally would not bother on something so low amperage. My apologies but 120volt machines just seem so limiting unless you are doing very very light work.

I did a repair on a forklift on 120v. Had about 6 or 8 inches of vertical weld took a second pass with 3/32 lo hy. Next was some handrail. , built the shelves in mystorage with mobile home beams, all 120v 20 yrs ago no way.

 

[William Payne]

I did a repair on a forklift on 120v. Had about 6 or 8 inches of vertical weld took a second pass with 3/32 lo hy. Next was some handrail. , built the shelves in mystorage with mobile home beams, all 120v 20 yrs ago no way.

Yeah I need to not be as judgemental. It is just a really weird voltage. I’m used to 230-240.

 

[sberry]

I think it's near revolutionary. So super handy, now so cheap. I wish they had it when I was a kid.

 

[dr_clyde]

Yeah I need to not be as judgemental. It is just a really weird voltage. I’m used to 230-240.

I don’t know what the standard household voltage is in New Zealand, but in the US we can’t be trusted with “high” voltage so we’re stuck with 120v 15 amp outlets as standard.

Therefore, it is very, very useful to have welders that can run on what is the most common voltage available.

This particular machine wouldn’t be super useful due to a max output of only 75 amps, but lots of other inverters allow up to 120 amps or so on 120v, which is enough to run 1/8” 7018 or a decent TIG bead on a pipe root or some plate.

 

[William Payne]

I don’t know what the standard household voltage is in New Zealand, but in the US we can’t be trusted with “high” voltage so we’re stuck with 120v 15 amp outlets as standard.

Therefore, it is very, very useful to have welders that can run on what is the most common voltage available.

This particular machine wouldn’t be super useful due to a max output of only 75 amps, but lots of other inverters allow up to 120 amps or so on 120v, which is enough to run 1/8” 7018 or a decent TIG bead on a pipe root or some plate.

In any single phase application it is 230-240volts 50hz, three phase, 400-415volts 50hz. That is the norm here. Unless you have some crazy specialised voltage application that is what is standard for 99% of people.

 

[Jason280]

I have two of them, thought they would be the perfect solution to repairing metal deer stands, etc using a small generator...they've never been out of the shop.

 

[Brand X]

To get 120 amps out of a 120 volt stick unit look for input amps over 30 amps or above. You can pull quite a bit more out of a good dedicated 20 amp circuit then rated, but only for a short while before the breaker snaps. Having owned two at exactly 30 amp 120 volt generators, and one that outputs 40 amps of 120 volt power..I know exactly what most 120 volt stick machine draw. That goes for Plasma cutters, and wire-feed machines too..




No 120 volt stick machine can run 1/8- 7018 rod pulling only 20 amps out of the wall. Just not going to happen.

 

[sberry]

I tested my Max. 1/8 lo hy trips up a breaker after a bit especially turned up, can run it some on a 20 but it's too cold. I ran 3/32 for a week, toasty and never tripped.
Will the Klutch run the lo hy 3/32 hot enough? If it does considering the cost it is great, would be super asset to maintainenance work, disposable cost. Not much excuse not to have a welder.

 

[Mechanical Noise]

I don’t know what the standard household voltage is in New Zealand, but in the US we can’t be trusted with “high” voltage so we’re stuck with 120v 15 amp outlets as standard.

The 120V standard is a leftover from the Edison DC system. Any changeover to an AC system had to be compatible with existing lighting fixtures.

 

[carmantl]

My Thermalarc 90s punches above its weight class for a 110 machine. It will run a 7018 1/8", barely, but it shines with 7014 1/8 and 6010 1/8. Our company's Everlast 160 dual voltage for $300 at the Depot special order are AWESOME!. 1/8 7018 all day long with about a 50% duty cycle. It takes more time to switch positions and jigs than that. This is on 110 also.

 

[Brand X]

I tested my Max. 1/8 lo hy trips up a breaker after a bit especially turned up, can run it some on a 20 but it's too cold. I ran 3/32 for a week, toasty and never tripped.
Will the Klutch run the lo hy 3/32 hot enough? If it does considering the cost it is great, would be super asset to maintainenance work, disposable cost. Not much excuse not to have a welder.

3/32 7818 is totally fine on a 20 amp line with the klutch.. I am impressed really, and it runs super cool on the input cable, and the machine itself. Rod after rod too...

It's funny, I have not ran my LM-200 Thermal-arc on stick forever.It's really nice too.. The Lorch /Esab has a great hot stick arc, and I have turn down the amps over any other machine I have. The INE is really my favorite, and my Buddy picked one up too. $179.00 on amazon Anyway Jim has many stick welders too, like a Multimaster, 260,Esab 161s, etc.. He says the 240 INE is way nicer then the Esab 161s ..He has the older Klutch 120 volt unit too. Just no 120 volt setup..(INE) Kind of why I bought the Klutch, and I don't have to beat up my little Thermal. He also has a Little Forney like you have, just because it was cheap.. Has not said too much, but it's somewhat problematic.. says he uses it to help him get better on other units... Like learning how not to have issues sticking the rod..



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0089VZOJY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[sberry]

Yes, for **** I bought a 100$ Forney to see if it could be done, it's a waste. It's strictly a 3/32 6011 unit. Any more than that trips the breaker in about half a rod. My Max will run 1/8 11 or 3/32 lo hy as fast as you can chuck them in the stinger on 120v.
I got the Max before the imports really came up to speed. I don't give a **** about tig but wouldn't have a problem doing the same work way cheaper than a Max. If I didn't have other machines in place would likely use 240 more but really only need 120 for what I use it for.

 

[Brand X]

Thermal-arc Japan Sanrex were always up to speed, even before the 150s maxstar was made by Miller.. Jim has my old TS-160.. and really likes how that runs Stick on 120 volts..Those were really high-end/high cost units though.. The Peewee 85s was built in the late 90's, and it's 6 pound power supply is really nice. Has tons of OCV, The Maxstar was always a good solid power supply, that Miller based other machines on.. Like the first passport.