'78 F350 Dually Project
- Thread starter RivennHewn
- Start date
Toolfool
Well-known member
Dang the neighbors and wife are going to think I've lost it.
No ****. Parking on the front lawn now ?
No ****. Parking on the front lawn now ?
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
C F,
Same color! Just might make it easier to swap panels/ doors.
Signal,
There does seem to be a never ending supply of rust buckets around here.
Tool,
If you park it on the lawn just right, you'll block out the view of the old bathtub and washing machine hiding in the grass!
Same color! Just might make it easier to swap panels/ doors.
Signal,
There does seem to be a never ending supply of rust buckets around here.
Tool,
If you park it on the lawn just right, you'll block out the view of the old bathtub and washing machine hiding in the grass!
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OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
No. 2's before pic:
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
I sent my wife a link to yet another white 1978 F350 dually flatbed listed on CL today.
I told her that I was considering buying it, and then keeping all three to start a local hauling company.
Told her my new title would be 'Fleet Manager'.
She hasn't responded.
Anyway, No. 2 has an issue.
It starts and idles fine, but when you put it in gear and get it under load, it sputters, jerks, and then quits. It will go about 1/2 block before dying out.
You can clutch it a bit at first, but then it won't even take any fuel.
Fuel pump? Carb? Any ideas of which rabbit to chase?
I told her that I was considering buying it, and then keeping all three to start a local hauling company.
Told her my new title would be 'Fleet Manager'.
She hasn't responded.
Anyway, No. 2 has an issue.
It starts and idles fine, but when you put it in gear and get it under load, it sputters, jerks, and then quits. It will go about 1/2 block before dying out.
You can clutch it a bit at first, but then it won't even take any fuel.
Fuel pump? Carb? Any ideas of which rabbit to chase?
James E
Well-known member
Can you feather the gas pedal to get it going? If yes, maybe the accelerator pump diaphragm?
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
James,
Once it starts sputtering, no amount of feathering the clutch/gas will keep it going.
Then it starts right up again.
Once it starts sputtering, no amount of feathering the clutch/gas will keep it going.
Then it starts right up again.
readhead
Well-known member
Might be the ignition module. Around those years fords and Jeeps did strange things.
LutzTD
Well-known member
first I have seen of this thread. I had a 78 high boy with the 351M/400 2bbl and loved it. torquey as heck and would do 80mph with 44" ground hawgs. Didnt see any pictures but Im betting it has the western weave bench seat cover, thats the only one I ever see in these 
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Lutz,
Guess what my son bought me for Christmas?
That very seat cover!
Post a pic of your '78 if you get a chance.
Guess what my son bought me for Christmas?
That very seat cover!
Post a pic of your '78 if you get a chance.
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
My guess with the running problem would either be the fuel filter or the pump.
I would also make sure the exhaust is free flowing & isn't plugged.
I would also make sure the exhaust is free flowing & isn't plugged.
Water in the fuel, bad filter, clogged inlet to carb, kinked or smashed fuel line or a leak in hte fuel line before the fuel pump.
lg
no neat sig line
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Hey,
Didn't even need a little blue pill
I can't believe the condition of the bed
PTO hydraulic ram
Didn't even need a little blue pill
I can't believe the condition of the bed
PTO hydraulic ram
dwysywd
Well-known member
Wow...just wow! Really? Fully dump no-rust 77'? Wait...wait...wait... yeah I just puked with envy....hmmmm, yeah, that's burrito from lunch, damn!
Sent from my quanset hut facsimile machine
Sent from my quanset hut facsimile machine
As others have said, I'd start with the fuel filter. Mostly because it's the cheapest and easiest fix.
My old Chevy would get the same symptoms every couple years and a new fuel filter would clear it up. It was a small brass unit where the fuel line goes in the carb but the Ford may be different.
I also had an old Ford with a bad ignition module, that's quite common but, it manifested itself as more of an on or off sort of thing. Not a lot of sputtering.
My old Chevy would get the same symptoms every couple years and a new fuel filter would clear it up. It was a small brass unit where the fuel line goes in the carb but the Ford may be different.
I also had an old Ford with a bad ignition module, that's quite common but, it manifested itself as more of an on or off sort of thing. Not a lot of sputtering.
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Wow indeed, that bed is in great shape!
If you don't mind divulging, how much did you pay for that one? Just wondering if you **** or not.
If you don't mind divulging, how much did you pay for that one? Just wondering if you **** or not.
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
dwysywd,
Wow is what I was saying when I brought it home. I almost passed on it, because buying two of the same truck is, well, kinda crazy, right?
Sounds like the 1st thing to look at is the fuel line/pump/filter. I'm thinking about removing the tank from behind the seat, and fitting one in under the bed.
It would have to be behind the differential.
C F,
Not wanting to come close to impropriety in regards to self suckage, let's just say I was standing very close to some mass suckage.
Can we say that here?
Here you can see that they started out asking $6500, then dropped to $5500.
Then it dropped to $3500 and $2500, and $2000.
That's when I threw a low-ball number at them. And they took it.
Wow is what I was saying when I brought it home. I almost passed on it, because buying two of the same truck is, well, kinda crazy, right?
Sounds like the 1st thing to look at is the fuel line/pump/filter. I'm thinking about removing the tank from behind the seat, and fitting one in under the bed.
It would have to be behind the differential.
C F,
Not wanting to come close to impropriety in regards to self suckage, let's just say I was standing very close to some mass suckage.
Can we say that here?
Here you can see that they started out asking $6500, then dropped to $5500.
Then it dropped to $3500 and $2500, and $2000.
That's when I threw a low-ball number at them. And they took it.
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James E
Well-known member
It's settled, then.
You definitely ****.
You definitely ****.
Toolfool
Well-known member
Excellent deal. OK, you're not crazy, this time.
1Garageman
Well-known member
WOW! Awesome thread! I just found this and I am in love with your trucks! 77' is the year I was born. I always though it would be cool to have a truck that has the same birth year as me. You have found some super good deals!
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Thanks guys.
I was in Nelson Truck in N. Seattle talking to them about a dump unit for the 1st truck earlier the same day I bought the 2nd.
It would have cost me 4-5 times more to buy a new dump, than buy No. 2.
Also, the new units they were showing me would have added 4-5 inches in bed height.
I wasn't interested in that. I'd really like to go the other way, and lower the bed. (Old man-Bad back thing)
Hope you all have a nice weekend!
I was in Nelson Truck in N. Seattle talking to them about a dump unit for the 1st truck earlier the same day I bought the 2nd.
It would have cost me 4-5 times more to buy a new dump, than buy No. 2.
Also, the new units they were showing me would have added 4-5 inches in bed height.
I wasn't interested in that. I'd really like to go the other way, and lower the bed. (Old man-Bad back thing)
Hope you all have a nice weekend!
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
I have another question for the panel.
In talking to the PO, they mentioned that just having the key in the ignition will drain the battery.
Not turned to accessory position, just in.
Is it time for a new switch?
In talking to the PO, they mentioned that just having the key in the ignition will drain the battery.
Not turned to accessory position, just in.
Is it time for a new switch?
nh_yota
Well-known member
Does the truck have a door chime? Maybe there is a short in the circuit that chimes when you leave the key in the ignition.
ncboat
Well-known member
My brothers 79 with a 400 acted like yours and had him pulling his hair out. I took the carb air horn off and found a filter inside the carb body itself just FYI. The ignition switch may be bad but I would start with the door switches first as someone else suggested. Love the truck very cool.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looks like a nice project, and a second project for that matter.
Not really a blue oval fan myself but I like the looks of these and I am all for keeping old trucks running and on the road.
Had a friend in high school that had a truck almost identical to the one pictured here, even the triple rollbar. I built up a 429 for him and we also installed a married trans/transfer case. Haven't seen it around for about 10 years so I am not sure of its status now.
I have a really good friend that is and always has been a Ford nut. He bought a 78 Ford F150 4x4 shortbed new in 1979. He drove it for a while with the 351 and manual four speed then it started its transformation. He built a 400 with a turbo and swapped in a C6, then started having axle issues. He installed full floating rear axle and 3/4 ton knuckles outward on the front Dana44 along with about 4" of lift. He got tired of messing with the jetting and temperamental nature of the turbo engine and built up a 460 which has been in it for the past 20 years now. It is still his almost daily driver and is in pristine condition. This guy takes immaculate care of his vehicles and his truck shows it. The engine, transmission and axle swaps look like they came off the assembly line is how clean and detailed the truck is. I talked to him just before Christmas and he told me the engine is starting to get tired and once he gets his new shop built he wants to tear it down to the frame and built it back completely. Still a cool looking older truck.
I hope to keep my 2006 Duramax in as pristine condition as I want this to be the last truck I buy.
Again, great project, looking forward to following the progression.
Mike.
Not really a blue oval fan myself but I like the looks of these and I am all for keeping old trucks running and on the road.
One of these days, I'd like to put a 4x4 front end under it & make it look like this!
Had a friend in high school that had a truck almost identical to the one pictured here, even the triple rollbar. I built up a 429 for him and we also installed a married trans/transfer case. Haven't seen it around for about 10 years so I am not sure of its status now.
I have a really good friend that is and always has been a Ford nut. He bought a 78 Ford F150 4x4 shortbed new in 1979. He drove it for a while with the 351 and manual four speed then it started its transformation. He built a 400 with a turbo and swapped in a C6, then started having axle issues. He installed full floating rear axle and 3/4 ton knuckles outward on the front Dana44 along with about 4" of lift. He got tired of messing with the jetting and temperamental nature of the turbo engine and built up a 460 which has been in it for the past 20 years now. It is still his almost daily driver and is in pristine condition. This guy takes immaculate care of his vehicles and his truck shows it. The engine, transmission and axle swaps look like they came off the assembly line is how clean and detailed the truck is. I talked to him just before Christmas and he told me the engine is starting to get tired and once he gets his new shop built he wants to tear it down to the frame and built it back completely. Still a cool looking older truck.
I hope to keep my 2006 Duramax in as pristine condition as I want this to be the last truck I buy.
Again, great project, looking forward to following the progression.
Mike.
C_F
ALLIANCE MEMBER
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Thank you all,
No progress to report, as we were on the road all weekend.
Came across this wonderful old wrecker:
No progress to report, as we were on the road all weekend.
Came across this wonderful old wrecker:
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
I didn't make any progress on the fuel/carb issue, but I did clean up the dump bed a bit.
Took the very useful, but ugly plywood and PT rails off.
Now I'm trying to figure out what, if any, of the metal rails/gate/headache rack I want to chop.
They are all welded. I'm thinking, at least I need removable sides.
Took the very useful, but ugly plywood and PT rails off.
Now I'm trying to figure out what, if any, of the metal rails/gate/headache rack I want to chop.
They are all welded. I'm thinking, at least I need removable sides.
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
A couple videos of the old 460:
Running -
Dying -
Running -
Dying -
drivesitfar
Well-known member
Riv: i have to say if you keep buying and looking at all these cool old trucks you'll need to find a place out away from the city. were you maybe looking at a place to live up near Sequim, Port Townsend, Poulsbo or ?? if you work downtown i bet the ferry ride might not be a horrible commute especially if you can work 3 12's or some work from home.
we love the food and the little town of Port Townsend, but can't move for a few years yet so we are still exploring.
in any case i do like your style and wish i knew more about trucks to give you a clue on your issue.
good luck
we love the food and the little town of Port Townsend, but can't move for a few years yet so we are still exploring.
in any case i do like your style and wish i knew more about trucks to give you a clue on your issue.
good luck
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Drives,
We were over in Sequim, staying in a B&B where you stay in old train cars. It was kinda fun, and I had two of the best breakfasts I've had in a long time!
http://redcaboosegetaway.com
I'd move into the rain shadow, but I'm afraid I'd lose my wife if I did. I tend to like Port Angeles more, but PT is great too.
Thanks
We were over in Sequim, staying in a B&B where you stay in old train cars. It was kinda fun, and I had two of the best breakfasts I've had in a long time!
http://redcaboosegetaway.com
I'd move into the rain shadow, but I'm afraid I'd lose my wife if I did. I tend to like Port Angeles more, but PT is great too.
Thanks
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OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Pulled the fuel line between the carb and the pump, then had the wife crank it over while I squirted fuel into a cup. Seems to me to be free flowing, which would rule out a pump/filter issue.
I'm kinda wondering if it's an electric choke issue.
Like i posted before, it will start and run for about 20-30 seconds, then sputters out. No amount of playing with the carb/accelerator pedal will keep it running.
I can't find a part # on the carb. Anybody know where I'd find it, or recognize this unit?
I'm kinda wondering if it's an electric choke issue.
Like i posted before, it will start and run for about 20-30 seconds, then sputters out. No amount of playing with the carb/accelerator pedal will keep it running.
I can't find a part # on the carb. Anybody know where I'd find it, or recognize this unit?
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Also,
Seems I'm in need of a new radiator.
Anybody have any experience with the aluminum ones on Ebay?. Looks like there are more than a few sellers, but they all look identical.
Seems I'm in need of a new radiator.
Anybody have any experience with the aluminum ones on Ebay?. Looks like there are more than a few sellers, but they all look identical.
Spareparts
Well-known member
Should be a # on the choke horn, check the float level, maybe a float filled with fuel and sunk shutting off the fuel. It is a Holly, one of the simpliest carbs around.
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Draining the radiator coolant for disposal:
Corrosion:
Old Blue:
Any thoughts on these units off Ebay?
Corrosion:
Old Blue:
Any thoughts on these units off Ebay?
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
If it were me I'd first check around with local radiator shops to see about getting the original repaired or recored, or if it's not repairable to see if they can order you a regular replacement.
edited to add: I took a quick look at Rock Auto, they show an OEM-style radiator for about $140.
edited to add: I took a quick look at Rock Auto, they show an OEM-style radiator for about $140.
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OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Thanks Stuart,
Not that it really matters much, but I like the look of the original over the aluminum ones.
I just want it to be the last one I deal with.
On another note, I removed the fuel pump. The bolts came out with my fingers. No need for tools. It was so loose, that the bolts would have fallen out at some point.
New pump in, just need to pick up some new hose to finish it up.
Not that it really matters much, but I like the look of the original over the aluminum ones.
I just want it to be the last one I deal with.
On another note, I removed the fuel pump. The bolts came out with my fingers. No need for tools. It was so loose, that the bolts would have fallen out at some point.
New pump in, just need to pick up some new hose to finish it up.
OP
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Thanks Brew,
I've already Googled a few shops in my area that have good reviews.
Hoping to fix as opposed to replace. Just need to see the time/money balance.
I've already Googled a few shops in my area that have good reviews.
Hoping to fix as opposed to replace. Just need to see the time/money balance.