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'78 F350 Dually Project

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RivennHewn

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Looks like I have plenty of time to verify stroke/position.

The TC cover was shipped wrong.


Also, seems there is supposed to be a backing/blocking plate between the TC cover and the pump.

Hmmm.....

Seems somebody (PO) forgot to install that little part.

So now I need to source one of those too.

Edit: Truth comes out.

Quite possibly I threw it out with the old cover, not realizing there was two parts stuck together.

Either way, it's a good thing this project has no deadline or budget to adhere to.
 
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madoc1

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Huh?:headscrat With #1 on TDC, the timing marks most certainly should point towards each other. The crank points at 12 o'clock, the cam at 6 o'clock...so, yes, he does have it lined up properly.
If both dots pointed at 12 o'clock, the #1 piston would be sitting at the top of the exhaust stroke.

what he said.. google "460 ford timing chain".:thumbup:

jim
 
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RivennHewn

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Turned my attention to the inside of the lid. Got the insulation cut/ fitted and installed.

Next is the head liner.........

hRr3




Q-aW
 

F350

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Cloyes is a good brand to get the engine back to 0 degrees versus 4 retarded at the factory.

No engine is perfectly centered at the rad/fan. Just order according to what you have. Most of them were factory installed one way or another, and a stock part could be used.
 

C_F

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Wow, nice work on the insulation, that looks great!:thumbup: Man, that cab is going to end being nice-n-quiet inside when you're done.
 
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RivennHewn

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Wow, nice work on the insulation, that looks great!:thumbup: Man, that cab is going to end being nice-n-quiet inside when you're done.

I sure hope so:willy_nil


Still don't have all the parts I need. Which is a great reason to have absolutely nothing to do on an absolutely wonderful afternoon:rocker:

Brought out my macro lens on my 7S+ and had some fun.

Hope you enjoy:

Abrasive blade
egKk


Rust
YEbi


Valvoline jug
TnqN


Diamond plate
YL16


cable swage
RDuy


part numbers
xD_Q


rusted rivet
VKdHM


wet Dahlia
wlGc


lily
2N5k
 
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RivennHewn

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Better to be lucky, than good.....

Made some good progress today. I laid out all the parts, made sure I knew which length bolt went were, ran thru the whole process/ sequence in my mind a number of times, and had every last detail accounted for. Or so I thought.

Gaskets, seals and RTV, greased a few parts, lined everything up and installed all the bolts thru the water pump and timing cover. Then got everyone of the bolts hand tight, before snugging them down in a random sequence.

Everything was going just right, and I was about to give myself a pat on the back.

Then I see the oil slinger sitting on my bench. It was supposed to go under the timing cover. I felt sick:eek:

I went over to Ford460.com and read thru a bunch of threads before posting one on the subject.

It appears that when you install a double chain timing set, it's actually common practice to eliminate the slinger:)

I'm thinking about buying a lotto ticket this evening:rocker:

It is better to be lucky than good:pimpflash

gAGB
 
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RivennHewn

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Great close up photos! Man that is one clean Ford engine :thumbup: :thumbup:

Thanks.
I don't know if I'd call it clean yet, but I'm working on it:D

The DD has been acting up a bit lately. Starts fine one time, dead as dead gets the next time. I've been relying on my NOCO Genius jump starter this last week.

I finally get a chance to take the battery and alt in to get tested. Battery is fine, alt is toast.

To my surprise, changing the alternator in a 2005 F150 5.4L triton is about as easy a job as I could ever even imagine. 20 minutes start to finish.
Dk9o
 
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RivennHewn

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Strike two....


With the whole oil slinger episode behind me, I spent the rest of the weekend putting things back together.

Water pump, power steering, alternator, fuel pump and line, heater hoses, balancer/pulleys/belts, radiator.

got it to the point that I felt it was ready to redo fluids.

Oil in, coolant in.

That's when I started pumping the lower radiator hose to get rid of any air bubbles, and coolant started flowing out of the top of the water pump area. (the little 3" hose and clamps were all tight and good)

Seems the cast iron water pump has a little pressed in steel pipe on the back that didn't seat well from the factory.
JHUa


It didn't take much to pull it out completely with my fingers.

Guess I'll be pulling everything off again, and starting over. I don't know if I need to pull the timing cover off, but i'm thinking I'll just do it and double check and make sure no coolant got into the oil.
 
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kbs2244

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ALTs are most often easy.
They put them high to keep them dry.
AC compressors and PS pumps, on the other hand.....
 

larry_g

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Felt the need for another 3 day weekend. Took today off, mostly to work on the truck.

Got started tearing things apart to change the water pump.

Water pump removal:
L5pc

The loose tube on the back of the water pump go into the rubber hose seen in this picture above? If so I don't understand why you think water could have got into the oil? Pretty sure that you don't have to pull the timing cover...Hopefully the Ford experts will chime in.

lg
no neat sig line
 
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RivennHewn

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Thanks Larry,

If the timing cover/ gasket had a chance to cure, or get baked on with a hot engine I wouldn't have been as concerned.

With the fresh gaskets, and the fact that all the bolts on the top half of the cover had to come out to remove the pump, there was a chance that the seal may have been compromised. It was easy just to remove it all, clean up and start over.

There was actually quite a bit of coolant that came out when I separated the pump off the timing cover.

A pain in the *** and a big step backwards but that's life, eh?
 

C_F

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The loose tube on the back of the water pump go into the rubber hose seen in this picture above? If so I don't understand why you think water could have got into the oil? Pretty sure that you don't have to pull the timing cover...Hopefully the Ford experts will chime in.

lg
no neat sig line
You're right, that's the water pump bypass hose, a leak there shouldn't allow any coolant into the oil.

That's a bummer that your new pump leaked there, sounds like someone was asleep at the assembly table that day.:(
 
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RivennHewn

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You're right, that's the water pump bypass hose, a leak there shouldn't allow any coolant into the oil.

That's a bummer that your new pump leaked there, sounds like someone was asleep at the assembly table that day.:(


I picked up a replacement pump, and I can see where there is some sort of epoxy/sealer/adhesive around the steel ******.
The failed pump has no sign of anything there.
 
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RivennHewn

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Ford Blue(s).....

A couple hours this afternoon cleaning gasket sealant off the parts, then attaching the pump to the timing chain cover. This way they can be install as an assembly.

Some tedious masking, then rattle can Ford Blue:rocker:

S9Mu

MN2j
 
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RivennHewn

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A little moon lighting has got me back to where I was before the water pump leak.

Timing cover, water pump, balancer, alt. power steering, hoses, belts, pulleys, fuel pump/line, radiator, new shroud, and a replaced fan clutch.

Ready to add fluids again.

1kgM


With the hole in the timing cover, the missing water pump backing plate, the missing shroud, and a leaking fan clutch, it's a wonder this thing hadn't seized up.

Here's to hoping that setting these issues straight will eliminate future problems:beer:
 

matt_i

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Very cool, it always feels good to conquer some "issues" that the previous owner(s) bodged or just over looked. Great progress!

One free suggestion is to get some split black conduit (wire loom) and put one on each spark plug wire. I did this to my truck and have had nary a problem. However on other truck engines, after the little factory routing clips got compromised, I had issues with the spark plug wires chafing each other and other metal brackets, and evidence of spark "leaking" to ground or to other less resistive paths. Its just a pre-emptive step to prevent problems 20-30k from now :)
 
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RivennHewn

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Thanks Matt,

Plugs and wires have been on the list for a while now. Switching them out will be a good opportunity to add some heat / wear protection as well.

Best,
 

madoc1

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truly looking good . i too paint all but the master. with 8mm wires you will not need anymore protection.good luck!

jim
 
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RivennHewn

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Breathing a little easier tonight......


Not claiming it'll out run a rabbit or last longer than a milkway bar, but feeling pretty good at the moment.

One of these days, I should put a timing light on it:eek:

With the 4 degree difference in the timing chain, it definitely needs some attention.


Thanks again for all your input and guidance. I couldn't have done it without your help.
 
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Lwel9226

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Get a timing light on it.....
You should be very happy with the newfound power you will get with the new timing.... :3gears: :3gears:
Good talking with you the other night.... :) :) Good luck with this project....

LynnW
 
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RivennHewn

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You should bring the truck up to OH on sunday. Pigfest in the streets. Thinking about doing the Mopar show at OH Motors .


Sounds like fun. The wife is out of town, but that doesn't mean she didn't leave me a to-do list!
 

oldtimehockey

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Whidbey Island, WA
Parts are starting to flow in.

tUCG



I've been very unhappy with my mirrors.

No matter how much I tighten them, they vibrate and wobble.

Been on the hunt for a pair of West Coast Mirrors. Finally found a pair of NOS Vintage Westerner Super by K-D lamp Co.

SvAI


ckD8


Not sure when I'll get around to installing them, but I'm pretty excited about actually getting them shipped without any damage!

I was hoping for a pair with the yellow chevrons on the backs. But these will do nicely.

RivennHewn...If you don't mind me asking, how much did the pair of West Coast mirrors set you back...???
 
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