I am installing an 8" piece of duct through an exterior wall with normal stud construction and brick veneer. This is an exhaust for a range hood. I have the correct damper that I will install on the exterior wall. I have also created a frame made of double 2x4s attached to the studs that the duct will go through. The only thing left is creating the 8 inch hole in the brick. I am planning on drilling small pilot holes around the 8 inch circle and then using a chisel to finish the hole, unless someone has a better idea. My questions are as follows. Will I need to do anything to sure up the brick above the duct. I know you can get drill through anchors that attach the brick veneer to a structural element. Do I need this. Or is there some sort of radius arch lintel? Also what is the best caulking to seal the damper to the brick wall? Is any additional flashing recommended? I know there are some really smart people here so I figured it was a good place to ask. Thank you in advance.
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8" hole through brick.
- Thread starter Stobal
- Start date
csp
Well-known member
I have to ask, why so big for a range hood? Is this in a commercial application?
machsnell
Well-known member
No expert here so take it for what it cost.
Core drill would make quick work of it and be very clean but you would have to rent.
I don't think I would chisel for fear of knocking loose partial bricks.
I would use a 7 inch grinder with diamond blade and cut out an 5 sided hole and then cleanup the remainder with a 4 inch grinder to make a 0ercect circle
I domt know if it would need support others may be able to answer. I would gather nothing is needed but i would be installing a section of metal pipe and filling joints with non shrink grout because finding it was needed late could be problematic.
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Core drill would make quick work of it and be very clean but you would have to rent.
I don't think I would chisel for fear of knocking loose partial bricks.
I would use a 7 inch grinder with diamond blade and cut out an 5 sided hole and then cleanup the remainder with a 4 inch grinder to make a 0ercect circle
I domt know if it would need support others may be able to answer. I would gather nothing is needed but i would be installing a section of metal pipe and filling joints with non shrink grout because finding it was needed late could be problematic.
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abaker1624
Well-known member
Core hole
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I asked my self the same question. It is not a commercial application but it was the standard size for the range hood we got. It's not even a crazy high flow unit. It's only 30" wide. I myself was very surprised when it called for an 8" duct but when I inquired they said that was what was standard. It's US made but I have been a little disappointed with the ability of the company to answer some questions in a knowledgeable manner. My guess regarding these of an 8" duct is that longer runs would require a large diameter duct to counter the increased resistance. When I inquired if I could reduce the duct size because my application was literally a 90 bend from the hood out the wall (the range is on the exterior wall), I was told it was not recommended and they would not guarantee proper function. It sounded like a very canned answer to me.
47WDXPW
Well-known member
Dry core for a brick veneer, it will literally take 1 minute to make the hole and the hole will look great without any water.
mrobins297aaa
Well-known member
I would do it the same way you are doing it, hopefully you have a hammer drill maybe with a 1/4" bit, make lots of holes around the circle.
A circle doesn't require a lintel, it is in itself one.
if you screw up and remove a little to much brick you can always get some ready mixed mortar and mix it up in a coffee can.
A circle doesn't require a lintel, it is in itself one.
if you screw up and remove a little to much brick you can always get some ready mixed mortar and mix it up in a coffee can.
mrobins297aaa
Well-known member
I will admit a 8" core bit will look a lot better and be a lot faster, but I think if you had a 8" core bit laying around you wouldn't be making this post and the hole would already be done
smaller duct size will increase the noise factor
So quick follow up post. I looked into a core drill rental. With the bit I would need it would be about $220. Not the end of the world but a little pricey. I am less concerned about being able to make the hole cleanly and neatly. I previously installed some exterior lighting and was able to cut pretty decent holes for the electrical boxes in this brick veneer. If I find I am underestimating the task, I'll go rent the core drill. What I would really love someone to chime in on is whether I should support the brick with something like a Simpson heli-tie to the wooden frame work, or if the mortar/grout surrounding the duct will be fine. Also any recommendations as to what caulk or sealing product around the damper. I had a very nice heavy gauge custom piece fabricated.
I have a couple nice hammer drills (battery and plug in), and plenty of masonry bits of assorted sizes. I also have grinders, diamond wheels, etc to clean up my handy work. Thank you for all the responses so far. I emailed the guy who fabricated the damper regarding product for installation. Maybe he will have a good recommendation.
csp
Well-known member
Use a good polyurethane caulk around the ductwork. Something like OSI Quad.
readhead
Well-known member
Why not go out with rectangular duct? Easier hole to cut. Exterior terminations are available.
chaosracing
Well-known member
Mark your circle out on the brick. Then drill all around the mark with a 3/8" masonary drill bit (1/2" works to, 1/4" will to, but bigger is better). If you have access to a hammer drill with SDS capabilities, the better you are. When you drill around the mark, you want a hole about every 1/2" to 3/4" Then when done, take a cold chisel and score between the holes, or use an angle grinder with masonary blade. Then you can start chipping out the center to relieve the stresses and then you can start knocking the rest out.
Radix2
Well-known member
Your method will work fine. One of the little cheap air chipping hammers from harbor freight works well for cleaning out the jaggies.
rsanter
Well-known member
If it was me I think I would drill a pattern of holes that then allowed me to go up on size on the drill bits and make it very close to connecting the holes.
Then there will be very little break away and little chance of breaking the bricks.
Then get a masonry grinding disc and that will smooth out the edge of the hole in short order.
Put the duct in and a nice bead of caulking or grout around it and you are done
Bob
Then there will be very little break away and little chance of breaking the bricks.
Then get a masonry grinding disc and that will smooth out the edge of the hole in short order.
Put the duct in and a nice bead of caulking or grout around it and you are done
Bob
mike in tucson
Well-known member
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- Jul 31, 2015
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Since you don't show where you are living, here is a question: is there a local core drill company that charges by the hole? we had two for roof drains done by a sub.....they had the drill, came out and drilled them quickly, all was good. Rent 'ho, cheaper and faster.
73RR
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Yeah, if you haven't yet, call a concrete cutting company for a quote. It will take longer to set up than to cut the hole and it will be neat and tidy.
Thanks for all the replies and great suggestions. I will update when I am finished and let you guys know how it went. Ito answer someone's question, didn't switch to rectangular duct because the company said it could increase the turbulence leading to decreased performance and increased noise.