80 gallon compressor tank rust through leak

[BMEP]

Unfortunately, my 5hp 80 gallon compressor tank started dripping from a spot on the middle of the bottom side of the tank. It's a late 80s vintage Charge Air Pro by Ingersoll Rand 5hp, 18.7 CFM @ 175psi with relatively low hours. By the way, I do have an automatic drain but this compressor belonged to my dad for probably 25 years and it sat many of those years apparently with water in it. I added the drain fairly recently (and too late, as it seems).

So, I found a new ASME replacement tank for $699 (tank is $520, the rest is shipping). That's definitely less than a new comparable compressor, but still nothing to sneeze at.

Anybody got any other ideas?

 

[Sureshot]

I would try to fix it first. Cut out the area to see how much metal is left and if it is weldable. If you fix it fill it with water and pressure it up to 1.5- 2x operating pressure for a test.

 

[Marshall2u]

Wow, that's a tough call, but...... What is the equivalent today? $1200, or so? I'm a "use what I got" kinda guy, so I would fix what you got. If the rest of the unit is in good shape, it's a no-brainer, from my perspective.

 

[bmwpower]

Get a used tank. Sadly, I've seen a fair share of IR tanks from blown pumps.
Do not try to fix the tank you have.

 

[Golfer]

Yea I wouldn't weld it if you value your life and property.

 

[RobSmith]

It's an air tank ! Not a fuel tank . Drill out the hole and weld in a threaded collar then screw in a drain tap. Or better yet drill about a 1/4" hole and tap that then screw in a small petcock.

 

[Sureshot]

It's an air tank ! Not a fuel tank . Drill out the hole and weld in a threaded collar then screw in a drain tap. Or better yet drill about a 1/4" hole and tap that then screw in a small petcock.

Better idea than mine right here if it works and it likely will. Could likely even braze it.

 

[BMEP]

The thing is, of it's rusted completely through in one spot, it's likely thin in another... or more likely, many places. I considered welding it but it's not worth the risk to me. Air compressor tanks don't rupture often but it does happen. $700 isn't worth what could happen to me, my wife or another bystander in the event of an explosive rupture.

 

[Sureshot]

The thing is, of it's rusted completely through in one spot, it's likely thin in another... or more likely, many places. I considered welding it but it's not worth the risk to me. Air compressor tanks don't rupture often but it does happen. $700 isn't worth what could happen to me, my wife or another bystander in the event of an explosive rupture.

Not sure what kind of ideas you are looking for then?

Selling it is likely out of the question then because of liability so you could ship it to me and I will dispose of it for you. Safely.

 

[71flh]

Leaking from the middle of the bottom? Sounds like the drain fitting is leaking.
Have you looked or removed and resealed the drain fittings?

 

[djjsr]

Do you need a tank that big? If you've been looking at prices of replacement tanks, you probably know a smaller tank is considerably cheaper.

 

[Crazy Car Guy]

i went to the scrap yard and got a 500 or so gal propane tank for $88 out the door. how do you argue with that much air storage for 88 bucks?

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Along with rust pits in the bottom, that tank probably has a ring of rust around where the water line was in the bottom, just waiting to let go. What makes a tank dangerous when it explodes is the large volume of air contained in it.

The only real option it a "new" tank, whether new or decent newer one used one from a blown compressor.

Charles

 

[Stephenw]

Replace the tank, new or used.

Don't even think about trying to repair it. Google ASME code certified pressure vessel repair if you are interested in learning more.

 

[pro machine Engineering]

It's an air tank ! Not a fuel tank . Drill out the hole and weld in a threaded collar then screw in a drain tap. Or better yet drill about a 1/4" hole and tap that then screw in a small petcock.

It doesnt have to have had fuel in it to be a bomb. you ever been around a semi tire when it blows its violent. 175 psi letting go at once is a bomb

 

[ibedayank]

http://ncsp.tamu.edu/reports/WorkCover/Alerts_files/0.gif[/IMG]


http://www.doli.state.mn.us/ccld/BoilerIncidentsAir3.asp

This air tank compressor failed due to improper maintenance. Its tank water was not drained on a regular basis and the bottom corroded. Since this compressor was in someone's home garage, it was not required to be inspected under current Minnesota laws. No one was injured when the tank failed.

The tank was not built to ASME code and not registered with the National Board. The drain valve on the tank was removed, probably because it was leaking, and replaced with a plug. The accumulation of water in the vessel caused severe corrosion and thinning of the metal on the bottom of the tank. Ultrasonic thickness testing revealed a thickness of .070 inches. At this thickness the tank should never have been allowed to be pressurized. The safety valve was set at 140 psi and the pressure controls were assumed to be working properly. The purchaser brought home his new treasure, put it in his garage and plugged it in. When the pressure in the tank reached about 100 psi, the tank ruptured and flew across the garage. Luckily, nobody was injured.

now if you want to see what can happen if your standing close to a tank when it blows click this link....NOT for the faint of heart
http://www.documentingreality.com/f...led-exploding-air-compressor-6b88aee8b02b.jpg
http://www.documentingreality.com/forum/uploadedimages/2/8/4/6/0/131179.thumb?d=1266937711

get the picture on why YOU DON'T WELD ON AIRTANKS

 

[BMEP]

Thank you all for the ideas and suggestions.

Not sure what kind of ideas you are looking for then?

Selling it is likely out of the question then because of liability so you could ship it to me and I will dispose of it for you. Safely.

You have a point but there. I figured I'd solicit ideas before shelling out the $700. You never know - there seems to be a lot of good ideas and differing views (always a good thing in my book) on this board.

Leaking from the middle of the bottom? Sounds like the drain fitting is leaking.
Have you looked or removed and resealed the drain fittings?

I did look at the drain - that's definitely not it. The leak was about 5" away from (and above) the drain. I dried it with a paper towel and watched it reappear.

 

[Herb]

Get a new or known good used tank. Take your old tank and make it into a giant pig roaster or bbq setup and sell it to recoup some $$.

 

[bdkruger1]

Aw Jeez, Not this sh*t again !

 

[BillK]

Rob,
First of all . . . . I dont care what anyone else says, if it is rusted through, turn it off and leave it off until you get a tank or a new compressor.

That being said, is there a Grainger store near you ? Or a local air compressor repair shop ? See if they can get you a tank without the shipping ? Maybe even Sears and have it sent for store pickup ?

Whatever you do, do not try to fix the tank !!! We dont need to read about you in the paper

 

[demographic]

Retire the tank to a wood burning stove, smoker or something less critical than air storage.

If its rusted through in one area its most likely very close in another.

Either that or take masses of photos and document the whole thing so the explosion can be a lesson to others...

 

[Milton Shaw]

Scrap it, cut it in half and make yourself a big BBQ. That would do about half a cow. Best use I can think of. Turn tank over and use the rusted out bottom as the top and you have built in vents from the holes. That would give you the compressor platform for a base. Where are you at, we'll come over for the BBQ.

 

[koditten]

Do what I did. My last compressor tank had a tag with an assembly date of 1936. Got a new tank because I didn't trust it.

Took old tank and cut a 12" hole in the side near the top. Filled tank with scrap metal pieces left over from jobs, took tank to scrap yard. Paid for most of my new tank.(took a year to fill the tank and had to use a skid steer to load tank on trailer)

If you have a rust failure, there reallyis no way to repair it and have 100% confidence that somewhere else is not going to fail.

I like to leave my compressor online all the time. I have no air leaks so I don't even bother to turn off the power to the unit. If I had a tank that I didn't fully trust, I could never do that. I would be worrying when I wasn't there if the tank had a new hole in it and the compressor was running non stop to fill the tank.

 

[jrhaines2]

Do what I did. My last compressor tank had a tag with an assembly date of 1936. Got a new tank because I didn't trust it.

Took old tank and cut a 12" hole in the side near the top. Filled tank with scrap metal pieces left over from jobs, took tank to scrap yard. Paid for most of my new tank.(took a year to fill the tank and had to use a skid steer to load tank on trailer)

If you have a rust failure, there reallyis no way to repair it and have 100% confidence that somewhere else is not going to fail.

I like to leave my compressor online all the time. I have no air leaks so I don't even bother to turn off the power to the unit. If I had a tank that I didn't fully trust, I could never do that. I would be worrying when I wasn't there if the tank had a new hole in it and the compressor was running non stop to fill the tank.

How did the tank look on the inside?

 

[pb2624]

I have a 80 gallon that I was about to scrap but I bet your not local.

 

[danho]

I had a compressor blow up in the back of my truck while it was parked at my dads. The explosion destroyed my truck and the tank flew 150' in the air, 100' down the driveway.
I have since been more aware of the power of compressed air. I would replace the tank.

 

[Zrexxer]

Aside from all the "you'll-be-horribly-maimed-and-disfigured-if-you're-not-killed-in-the-******-conflagration" concerns, if you need a good solid reason not to repair the tank, it's because it just won't work.

I've seen more than one person chase their tail for months trying to weld up leaks in a compressor tank. The problem is, once it's perforated, it's not just one place. The whole tank is getting rusty and thin, and as soon as you weld up one leak another will perforate soon. It's a losing proposition.

 

[R6 Racer]

I have a new 60 gal. tank that I have for sale for $175.00. I don't know where you are but I'll bet even with shipping it would be cheaper than buying new where you are.

Let me know if that helps.
Steve

 

[BMEP]

I have a 80 gallon that I was about to scrap but I bet your not local.

I'm in the Sacramento, CA area - where are you?

I have a new 60 gal. tank that I have for sale for $175.00. I don't know where you are but I'll bet even with shipping it would be cheaper than buying new where you are.

Let me know if that helps.
Steve

Thanks Steve - I'm quite a distance from you and I'd also really like an 80 gallon tank.

I'm figuring on the new tank at this point.

 

[TWX]

It's an air tank ! Not a fuel tank . Drill out the hole and weld in a threaded collar then screw in a drain tap. Or better yet drill about a 1/4" hole and tap that then screw in a small petcock.

I've got to disagree. Gasoline isn't kept under pressure, so a weak tank can hold if it doesn't actually let fluid through. If a pressurized-air tank is fixed improperly it can rupture and shrapnel all over everything when it bursts, and the odds that this tiny leak is the complete extent of the failure is low. People like to complain about PVC for air lines- I'd think this is a lot more dangerous than PVC...

 

[Keep]

This thread reminded me to go drain my tank. Thanks!

Oh those picture were something...holy ****.

 

[6768rogues]

I wouldn't try to fix it. My father had a tank fail and it destroyed the corner of a block building. Say the pressure is 175 psi as you stated. That is 175 pounds per square inch. Add up all the square inches of tank surface and imagine if all that energy is released at once.

 

[koditten]

Pretty bad, many places along the bottom looked ready to bust thru. I compared it to dairy products, if I had to wonder if it was ok, I toss it out.

Kind of looked like a shot gun blast to a stop sign, if you can imagine this.

KO

 

[Mr.Nutcase]

replace it, dont be a cheap ***.

 

[kbs2244]

I am a scrounger and I have some idea of the safety margins put into some items.
Many of them are written by lawyers not engineers.

But this one I have to agree with.
It isn’t worth it to try and save it.

The junk yard propane tanks are a idea if you are trying to save money and don’t care about certification.
Propane is dry and the tanks shouldn’t be rusty inside.

But if you don’t go all out and get an approved, tagged, warrentied tank, at least put it behind some heavy duty walls and you and yours.
2x6’s on 12 inch centers may do it.

When metal tank blow they blow bad.
That is why I prefer fiber tanks.
But none of the citifying outfits will touch a fiber tank.
They are stuck in the steam temp/pressure days.

 

[Twiggss]

So what about buying a unknown used compressor with no holes. do you think it could be effective to add some type of sealer to the inside?

 

[TWX]

So what about buying a unknown used compressor with no holes. do you think it could be effective to add some type of sealer to the inside?

Probably not. Tanks do slightly expand when they're pressurize, and it's likely that the coating wouldn't have the same properties as the tank.

 

[djjsr]

When metal tank blow they blow bad.
That is why I prefer fiber tanks.

I've never seen a fiber tank for compressed air. Do they exist?

 

[jrhaines2]

One could examine the inside of a tank with a bore scope.

 

[1931S/X]

id find a place that will hydrotest it, then id cut a piece out and look at repairing it, but i am a welder and i used to work in a tank shop. all would get a hydro test, some would get the welds x rayed.