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868 sq ft options

brownz

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Joined
Oct 21, 2013
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21
Location
OHIO
Hi,

I have been on the forum looking around and trying my best to take in all the great info. I would also like to say thanks to everyone that takes the time to offer help and advise.

First off I just tried to apply for a variance for a 1140sqft garage and was turned down by complaints from the lady next door:mad: But Im allowed to build a 868sqft garage without approval. So I would like to know some thoughts on building a 3 car garage with the 868sqft. I will be putting a 4 post storage lift in the garage to add another spot. I know this is not the best amount of sqft but I dont mind pulling a vehicle out to have more room to work on projects.

I will be using the garage for my hobby and would like to have as much room as I can to have a designated work area that I will be doing most of the heavy work.

My backyard is big enough to have it in any shape but not sure what would be the best option. L shape? straight build? Im thinking a 36wX24d and also thinking of a 24x24 with a 12x24 offeset on one side.

Any feed back or ideas are welcome

Thanks
Brandon
 
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dhubbard422

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What kind of work do you plan on doing in your garage? Frame-off restorations? Paint and body work? General maintenance? Detailing? Hang out space? All of the above?

Since you had to ask for a variance, do you have an HOA with a minimum roof pitch? The roof shape, pitch and a 20' height restriction may dictate the side wall height and where you can place the lift, if you want a full height lift.

I'm just in the doodling stage on my workshop and I recently drew a 24' w x 36' d that only accommodated one car and one motorcycle bay. But I want a fabrication area for welding, shaping, turning and milling metal, a dirty-room for the bead blaster, parts washer, compressor..., workbenches and cabinets along the long walls and a spot for a desk. Those dedicated work areas pretty severely limit the number of vehicles that fit in the workshop.

I have an attached 2 car garage and I could put a lift in one of the bays in order to store 3 cars, so my workshop doesn't have to store cars.

Anyway, what you want to do in your shop may dictate whether or not there is an 868 sq ft workshop that will work for you while accommodating 4 cars.
 

nolimits76

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Jul 11, 2013
Messages
959
Location
Oklahoma
If you decide to place the peak on the 24' wide side, you get the following heights:

8' walls on 8/12 pitch = 16';
8' walls on 10/12 pitch = 18';
10' walls on 8/12 pitch = 18';
10' walls on 10/12 pitch = 20'

If you decide to place the peak on the 36' wide side, you get the following heights:

8' walls on 8/12 pitch = 20';
9' walls on 7/12 pitch = 19.5';
10' walls on 7/12 pitch = 20.5';
10' walls on 6/12 pitch = 19'
 

nolimits76

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Jul 11, 2013
Messages
959
Location
Oklahoma
Unless you plan to have designated areas (wood shop vs mechanic shop) I think a standard rectangle shape is best. It will fill bigger and more open.

In regards to size, what kind of vehicles do you plan on having? If you have full size extended and crew cab trucks, I would consider adding a foot or so to the depth making it 25' minimum. A 25' x 35' structure would put you at 875sf -- just a smidge over. And 25' x 34.75' gets you to 868.75sf. Over 3 bays you would be giving up a 1.25' but I think you will miss that less than the 1' depth.

Another question -- how do they calculate the 868sf? If it's outside of walls, then you will lose minimum 4-6" around the perimeter for framing, more if you do a masonry exterior wall. If that's the case and you lose 6" for framing and siding, then your inside dimensions would be closer to 23' x 35'. If it's not specifically clarified, I would ask for clarification and push that the square feet be calculated on INSIDE, so you get a true 24'x36' garage (or whatever dimensions you settle on).
 

600SL

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Connecticut
I had a 28w x 26d garage with 8' walls in CT. With a peaked roof the 8' 6" walls limited the lift. My two cars I could lift all the way up. The PU truck was limited to changing oil sitting in a chair. My whopping 728 sq ft was very usable once I got all shelving and storage off the floor. I placed perimeter shelves at 6ft height and 7' 2". Jack stands and regularly used stuff when on the lower shelves and parts and shop supply stock went to the upper shelves.

The shop also had a machine shop with welder, mill, lathe, surface grinder and drill press. It all fit in and was very usable.

See before and after pictures.
 

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brownz

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Oct 21, 2013
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OHIO
Thanks for all the input. As far as what will be in the garage and what it will be used for. I plan on putting a 79 z28,72 nova, 65 nova station wagon and a 2006 ext cab short bed 4x4 truck in the garage. The two novas will use the storage lift and the camaro and truck will use the other bays. I do plan on doing all types of work in the garage. I do what I call complete tear down and rebuilds on cars and also some minor paint and body work. For me to pull the truck out to have more work space os not a big deal but would like to store it inside as much as I can.

I dont know the details on the roof pitch or how they caluculate the sqft. I hope its inside totals and not outside to outside. I have been tossing around the idea of a 36w with all three bays being different depths to have a deeper bay that I will perform all the main work in. I know with a garage this size storage will be at the top of my list.

I just found a survey plan that the previouse owner gave me so I will be checking in to set backs and see what shape will work best. But any and all ideas and pics are weclome. Im starting to get excited!!!
 
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NUTTSGT

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Since you have a full size truck, I wouldn't want it any shallower than 26'. Our house garage is 24' and it doesn't allow much room front to back around my F150. I'd prefer to have it 28' deep.


28x31= 868. :dunno: odd size.
 

kevinstj

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Feb 9, 2010
Messages
50
I would suggest a loft in the garage. You can either put storage up there or make a small enclosed work area for intricate work. I have a 20' x 50 storage unit with 16' ceilings. I put up a 20' x 20' and I love it. I have a wall of base cabinets up there and it made a lot of extra storage.
 
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brownz

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Oct 21, 2013
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OHIO
Since you have a full size truck, I wouldn't want it any shallower than 26'. Our house garage is 24' and it doesn't allow much room front to back around my F150. I'd prefer to have it 28' deep.


28x31= 868. :dunno: odd size.

yeah I have a 20x24 garage on my house and I park the truck in the garage with a work bench behind it. I can just get between the bench and the rear bumper. To gain the space on the designated work area I dont mind to have min space in front and behind the truck. I would think 2 feet in front and 2 feet in rear is good for me to have the extra space on the work bay.

Im thinking one bay to be a 36w with one bay 27.5 deep, middle bay 24 deep and the bay with the storage lift 20 deep. I need just enough space for the storage lift to fit dont care about having room around it.

The only problem I might have is the wall height. If I have a max of 20ft in height would having cathedral ceilings in two bay be good enough for a 4 post storage lift and also maybe a 2 post lift down the road?

So many details :headscrat
 

nolimits76

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Oklahoma
The only problem I might have is the wall height. If I have a max of 20ft in height would having cathedral ceilings in two bay be good enough for a 4 post storage lift and also maybe a 2 post lift down the road?

So many details :headscrat

In my earlier posts I gave you some vertical heights based on various wall heights + various roof pitches I thought may be close to something you want. FYI, on an 8/12 pitch....8=rise, 12=run/span.

Below are some drawings to help you better understand what I am talking about.

Whatever dimensions you decide on, you need to peak the shortest side. That will allow you to have maximum wall height & roof pitch combo, while staying within the 20' tall constraint.

roof-pitch.png


roof-pitch-and-degrees-table.jpg
 

NUTTSGT

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yeah I have a 20x24 garage on my house and I park the truck in the garage with a work bench behind it. I can just get between the bench and the rear bumper. To gain the space on the designated work area I dont mind to have min space in front and behind the truck. I would think 2 feet in front and 2 feet in rear is good for me to have the extra space on the work bay.

Im thinking one bay to be a 36w with one bay 27.5 deep, middle bay 24 deep and the bay with the storage lift 20 deep. I need just enough space for the storage lift to fit dont care about having room around it.

The only problem I might have is the wall height. If I have a max of 20ft in height would having cathedral ceilings in two bay be good enough for a 4 post storage lift and also maybe a 2 post lift down the road?

So many details :headscrat

Might not be a bad idea to buy some graph paper and try out a bunch of layouts. Cut out some items (bench/cars/truck) to scale and move them around to see what might work best.
 

GYPSY400

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Mar 21, 2013
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Naughton Ontario
Here is an example of my 36x 24.. I have 2 10x10 doors and the short walls are 11ft.. the peak inside is 13ft.. I am limited to 16'5" on the outside peak ( local bylaw) but yet need to maintain at least a 4/12 pitch for shingles warranty
20140202_103215.jpg


Sent from my SGH-I747M using Tapatalk
 

Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
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Merkel, TX
Since you have a full size truck, I wouldn't want it any shallower than 26'. Our house garage is 24' and it doesn't allow much room front to back around my F150. I'd prefer to have it 28' deep.


28x31= 868. :dunno: odd size.

X2 on the above. I'm 24' deep and can do a lot in that depth for sure, but a regular pickup is a squeeze at about 18~19' long. Our house garage is about 22' deep and I can just fit the Super Crew in there with the hitch ball clearing the door by 2" and the nose clearing the wall by 12~18". There would be no room for a bench or anything in front of it. I left space in the big shop for 6 more feet of depth and should have poured it when I had the chance.

Something else I thought about after-the-fact - I maybe should have gone with a 9' wall and "hidden" the interior height with long run rafters and wide eves. On my 5/12 pitch, you'd have never seen it.

Also as noted above - I bought a pad of 5x8 graph paper and burned up a lot of sheets just penciling layouts and such. When I got down to 3 or 4 I liked, I went out with grade stakes and string and laid them out on the ground. That eliminated all but one layout.

600SL - nice work on the CT layout.
 
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jimindm

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Oct 29, 2011
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Location
Des Moines, Iowa
I work out of my 24x30. Overhead door on the 30 side, so 24 deep. I have a bolt bin and a few cabinets that are only 12-18 inches deep on the back wall. Many trucks are nosed into the cabinets to be able to close the overhead door. Most you can squeeze around some there is no chance. If I had to do it over again, I would build it deeper, or put the overhead door on the other side.

You kind of get used to putting a smaller vehicle in there, and then here comes a truck. You end up moving stuff to get the truck inside. It really is a PITA
 
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