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Above 1200 Sq/FT 86's 20HP shop

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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86turbodsl

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The seals in the leaky motor are out and in my hand. I know they're old, but still don't have any idea who made it. The numbers on the other motor are even more faint and obscured.

To top it off, the seals are weird. One square oring towards the gerotor section, then a thin brass shim, then a space, then a typical metal seal but facing outward like they expected pressure outside of the motor. Never seen anything like it.
 
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86turbodsl

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I just took a look at all nine of my forklifts, the rough terrain ones all pivoted higher than the axle to varying degrees and all the ones that were more flat ground style pivoted either on the axle housing, essentially around the CL of the wheels or very close to that, but in front of the axle housing. I know that pound for pound, the rough terrain forklifts don't usually get rated as high because they are figuring you are going to put the loads into all sorts of awkward and dangerous positions. They also usually have negative drop forks and keep the bottom of the mast high for ground clearance. I would say if you made mounts in front of the housing, but as close to the CL of the axle, you would lose some strength, but I do not think you would need to add counterweight as you are moving things forward increasing the power of what you already have on the *** end. I am sure if HF can build an engine hoist that will pick 2 tons, you can make a bracket to hold a forklift that can lift a ton, just be reasonable.

I would almost be tempted to hack the original mast up and use it to mount the new mast, that way you could use the original pivots and not have to reinvent the wheel. Is the plate on the original mast that holds the fork carriage together wide enough? You could use both pieces and make some angle iron with it for the main mount, then you would need to come up with another heavy chunk to mount the tilt cylinder, but it could be doable for sure. Or you could probably use the actual uprights, cut them down and turn them sideways.
No, no chance to reuse anything. The new one is a real forklift mast, the old one is a mickey mouse arrangement that looks like a kids toy. I don't want to put a ton of real force through the ears that hold up the old mast. The ears are only about a 1/4 inch thick. I'm sure i can engineer something that works. I'm actually far more worried about getting the motors working again. Can't identify them, the seals in the leaker don't look like they were bad, and the sealing system doesn't look like anything i've ever seen.

The motor OD is also turned on a lathe to a specific diameter so the clamps that hold them in the machine will fit. the manual has a procedure for tightening the motors back into the machine that requires operation while tightening to a specific torque. If you overtorque or misalign, you seize the motor.
 

kent_323is

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South Dakota
I'll add to the fire on fire extinguishers... since I have a side business, and since I manufacture and sell amphibious vehicles, and that requires dealer licenses through the state of South Dakota, which then requires product liability insurance, which meant a site visit by the insurance agency for an audit. They require fire extinguishers at each location and they need to be inspected each year. So I went and bought fire extinguishers from the local fire & safety place, expensive to start with, but each year they come in and re-certify them for a nominal fee. So if the insurance agency ever comes for another audit, I'm covered on fire extinguishers, plus if something does happen, I have them and they are ready to go.
So **** it up and buy a legit fire extinguisher, probably more than 1 and get them mounted in accessible locations.

On the hydraulic motors, I did some google searching, and this sure looks like it matches your forklift:
Not much info on the hydraulic drive motors, but it does list a seal kit on page 26 & 27.

It would also be worth searching the common hydraulic motor manufacturers to see if any of them match up: Danfoss, Eaton, Parker Hannifin, etc.

Good luck!
 
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86turbodsl

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I've got the drive hoses stripped off and pulled as much **** out of the bottom as i could. I don't have a working pressure washer at the moment so i think i'm going to haul the carcass over to the house with the other forklift and hose it out good there. i need to clean the mess in the shop up so i can prep to get the new mast fixtured. I'll take some pics for your viewing pleasure.

Also ordered some -10 hose and fittings so i can make new hoses for the ones that are looking sad. Going to reroute the right side motor hoses, to get the area cleaned up some for maintenance. I think that motor must have sprung a leak at some point and nobody put the bolts back in, due to how hard it was to work on that side. I can make it better, being a packaging engineer for years.
 
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86turbodsl

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Do you have better pics of the hydraulic motors with some dimensions? What little I can see of the motor in the vise, it looks pretty similar to common hydraulic motors. It might be cheaper and easier to just replace the motors and be done with it.
I'll get you some photos of the one i cleaned up. What makes replacement challenging is the body of the motors around the geroter section has been turned down to a specific diameter because the mounts on the machine are 1. The SAE A 2 bolt pattern at the drive end, and 2. The machine clamps down with a large clamp on the back end. Like a clamshell or a main bearing in an engine. There's a procedure in the manual for replacing the motor and running the drives while you gently tighten the clamp to a specific torque.

I'm reasonably sure it's an ancient charlynn h series. The photos online of the seal kit looks like what i pulled out. The gerotor section dimensions matches their data and the output speed meets what would expect for this application. About 100 rpm max. Plus charlynn has been around for decades and this thing is clearly like 60+ years old.
 
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86turbodsl

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Ok, the Eaton 60540 seal kit showed up, it is not a match. There appears to be several different design revisions of the H series motor and at least 3 different kits available at this time. 10 bucks amazon saved 85 from the industrial dealer. I ordered a different revision off ebay so we'll see in a few days. I'm trying to match up visually from online photos. Not an easy task. And no i don't have a hydraulic shop worth a damn anywhere around here. IMG_20250620_135135_982.jpg

IMG_20250620_135124_399.jpg
 
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kent_323is

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There is a bearing/seal company near me that specializes in bearings and seals. If you can measure the seals, maybe they could just cross match based on size and style?
They ship their parts.
Here's their website: https://www.cartneybearing.com/
I used them a few years ago when I had some odd size bearing or seal that I needed, and they were the only ones that I could find that had that part. I can't remember what it was right now.

The Namco looks much better after you got it cleaned up!
 
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86turbodsl

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Thanks Kent. We'll see where we are when the other kit comes in. Last resort is re-engineer the seal. I'm sure Charlynn knows things i don't.

Didn't make much progress last couple days, it's just been too hot. I did manage to get window shakers installed in bedrooms and my office so i can at least function on the critical stuff like sleep and work.
 
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86turbodsl

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Maybe rebuild the first drive motor and test it before you tear into the one that is working.... just a thought.. test and verify.

Just photoshop the picture before you post it here... the wheels can "identify" as chrome... lol
My reasoning is that getting these things in/out of the forklift is such a pain i don't want to do this again. Remember i have to pull the mast to get to the bolts. That's why one wasn't bolted in. The one that wasn't leaking. I suspect that one got a kit somewhere along the line.
 

bimmer1980

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When i say "test", I'm meaning that at a minimum to connect the hydro hoses and start the machine to see if they work as they should. I was not meaning a full out test with mast, etc.

I get that they are a ****** to get in and out.

If the one motor looks to have a more recent seal kit, it would be tempting not to even mess with it... if it ain't broke, don't break it...... (of course, apply some intelligence to this after inspecting the seals and gaskets, etc.)
 
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86turbodsl

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So this weekend, i got sucked into working on my boy's truck. He took 2 days off, Sat/sun, and we thrashed pretty good.

Back in January, he got impulsive waiting in line on a local road and tried to dart across opposing traffic at the wrong time, slamming his front end into a Tahoe. Same corner as a deer hit the year before. He pieced it together the first time, and this time, he wasn't able to do what was needed. He ordered a new core support, header panel, valence panel, and we picked up headlights, hood, grill and a few other bits and bobs at a swap meet. In the meantime he's been just driving it with the occasional police stop for missing headlight.

A few weeks ago, i had a day off and it was warm and i painted his core support and valence panel. And Saturday he drove over and we tore into it.

By Saturday night, we had it all apart and the new core support back in. Sunday, we picked him up and brought him back home and we started in around 10Am. Facing some significant uphill battles, such as cutting parts of the LMC core support to fit his super cooling radiator, massaging mounts, fitting his new headlights, etc. We got it mostly back together, with exception of the valence panel under the grill, which we were waiting on some amazon fasteners which didn't show until 7pm Sunday. BUT, we threw the battery back in and found it was dead. The positive post was turning in the casing pretty good when i pulled the cable. I think it must have pulled the connection inside the case. So i told him i thought we were done for the day, and drove him to walmart to get a new battery then dropped him off at his apartment.

He was super mad that i didn't take him back home and spend the next couple hours working on it. Basically stormed out of the car at his appt and had nothing nice to say.

But the reality is, he lives 1 mile from work, its summer and he has feet.

I had an hour into taking him to walmart, and probably at least 2 more hours to hang a hood, bumper and valence panel at best. That puts me in bed about 1.5 hrs AFTER my usual bedtime, and I get up at 4-ish am to go to work. IF i don't get to bed on time, i usually don't sleep at all. And i have visitors from overseas here at work all week.

Some people just don't know when to be gracious. I did spin all the wrenches, cutting and painting. He filled the coolant back up.

Anyways, here's a photo.

1000015674.jpg
 

bimmer1980

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Good progress, too bad it wasn't on a forklift. But I get it, the kid needed help. Too bad he isn't grateful... or I suppose he doesn't know how to handle a setback or two...

My mother in law sometimes pulls that stunt and then she either gets a bill to pay or the next job i'm just too busy... being family doesn't give an excuse for being nasty.
 
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86turbodsl

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Good progress, too bad it wasn't on a forklift. But I get it, the kid needed help. Too bad he isn't grateful... or I suppose he doesn't know how to handle a setback or two...

My mother in law sometimes pulls that stunt and then she either gets a bill to pay or the next job i'm just too busy... being family doesn't give an excuse for being nasty.

Yeah, i pretty much have to help the kid or he doesn't have a job. Then he comes home. Don't want that.

Family doesn't ask for help much anymore. they know i'm too busy.
 
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86turbodsl

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Trucks looking pretty good. Got new plug wires on it, ready to back it out of the shop and put a bumper on it. I have an old powerstroke bumper with crappy holes in it i'm giving him until he finds a 08-12 bumper to put on it.

All done.

I'll throw a pic up shortly.1000015703.jpg
1000015704.jpg
 
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