Above 1200 Sq/FT 86's 20HP shop

[86turbodsl]

This is what happens when the following comes together:

1. Perfectionism - I don't want to do something unless i can do it RIGHT and perfect ONE TIME
2. Poor organizational skills - it's just not something that comes naturally
3. Very good at finding great deals
4. Packrat - I have a hard time getting rid of things i "might" need someday

Add them all up, and you get this mess.

Thankfully, i think i've reached the end of my rope, it has to change or i'll end up torching the building. I don't want that, so change it is.

 

[86turbodsl]

Continuing to work on the east wall window area, i got the framework completed on the interior wall and 2 sheets of drywall up at the 8 to 12 ft height. I will probably leave the topmost 1/2 sheet of drywall off until the wall is filled with cellulose, and will go ahead and finish the drywall and osb with paint and primer.





Once the paint is done, i'll move everything back from the south wall to where it was on east wall, and finish south wall. Then i should be ready to start erecting racking.

To be continued...

 

[86turbodsl]

Tonight i got the framing for the drywall done all the way up to the top, and mudded the drywall that is hung already all the way around from east to south wall. I left the corner unmudded, i think i'll use a corner round there instead of mud.

Anyone have an opinion on mudding osb screw heads? I had thought i'd leave the osb screws visible so i could take the osb down due to damage or whatever, but not sure i'd ever take it down. thoughts?

I'll sand and recoat in the morning and should be able to paint by tomorrow afternoon.

 

[Strouty]

This is what happens when the following comes together:

1. Perfectionism - I don't want to do something unless i can do it RIGHT and perfect ONE TIME
2. Poor organizational skills - it's just not something that comes naturally
3. Very good at finding great deals
4. Packrat - I have a hard time getting rid of things i "might" need someday

Add them all up, and you get this mess.

Thankfully, i think i've reached the end of my rope, it has to change or i'll end up torching the building. I don't want that, so change it is.

You are me!

 

[86turbodsl]

You are me!

That's what i thought, and that's why i've been so impressed with your shop!

 

[Strouty]

We obviously have similar problems. We should start a support group.

 

[86turbodsl]

Garage perfectionists anonymous - GPA...

 

[86turbodsl]

This morning i ran to town and got some 1x12 and 1x4 for trim boards. Cut those up on the table saw and made window trim for the east window. Also had a chance to put the second coat of mud on the drywall. I still don't have an opinion on mudding osb screw heads. Anybody do that? The osb here on this wall has been here a couple years, and was actually leftovers from building the house. It's actually kinda rough and stringy. I'll probably prime everything first, and if needed, i can do screw heads later.

What is everyone doing for window trim? I didn't like the looks of the ranch casing at Lowes, so i just got 1x4, figuring i would cut it down, but 3/4" thick window casing is a bit thicker than i'm used to for trim.

Glad i had an Incra jig for the table saw, i would have hated to freehand that. The job really belongs to a radial saw, but mine's not setup, and the one in the house is too far away to do cuts sneaking up on it like that.





Also threw the cutoff from the uprights in the corner to see placement. Comes right to the edge of the window, and misses the outlets behind it. I was thinking of tying the pallet racking into the building for safety, rather than trying to fasten to the floor. I don't like drilling holes in the floor with the radiant tubing in it. Sound like it would work? there's holes in the pallet racking that look like they could be used for bolts.



To be continued...

 

[86turbodsl]

Well, it's been a couple days with no real progress. Other than mudding and drywall. And sanding. Boring stuff, but has to be done. East wall finished smooth and then primed last night. Then painted both colors tonight, 2 coats each. I think that will be sufficient. I have to figure out how to stretch the primer though. This 10' x 12' section drank a half a gallon of kilz. I did find PVA primer at lowes in the 5 gallon bucket for $40 though. And 5 gallons at a time is worth spraying with my Graco. I didn't think it was worth getting it out for this tiny bit here. I might on the next wall though, if i can get at least 20 ft linear. Anyhow, enjoy, there will be a stripe between the gray and white. I also need suggestions on color for the window trim. I think maybe a 3rd color? Something that complements both? Suggestions?

Primed.


1 coat color.


Single coat color.


I think i'm missing the 2 coats shot. I'll have to get it later.

 

[Strouty]

That is still progress. Even if you have a few days without progress, do not beat yourself up. I know it is tough, post up in here, even if it is random thoughts. I find looking back later it can make future sticking points easier to get through.

 

[OldSoldier]

Anyone have an opinion on mudding osb screw heads? I had thought i'd leave the osb screws visible so i could take the osb down due to damage or whatever, but not sure i'd ever take it down. thoughts?

I left my heads exposed but painted. I've taken down one sheet over the workbench to run RCA cables for the CD player inside the wall, and I will take down the sheets at the mini split to run my condensate drain when I get around to it, so that's my vote. Maintain flexibility!

 

[86turbodsl]

I left them exposed, and they don't really show. Good call.

 

[86turbodsl]

With the east wall painted, i turned my attention back to the south wall, which meant moving ALL of the spare drywall and osb BACK over to the east wall. That left me here:

I had to finish putting all the stringers in under the window, insulate, and finish running the wiring that had to come out because of moving electrical boxes when the window got put in.



Once i got all that done, then i put the osb sheeting back on, and finished up the drywall mudding on the sheets above.





The next day, i got started on the primer. Killed the last of the gallon of Kilz i had, i'll have to get more to go further. But i got enough done.

After the kilz, then 2 coats of grey on the bottom.





Next, i have to pull the two sheets to the right, to be able to run the wiring behind the posts. So i'll continue to move down the wall, as i move wiring and install windows. Hopefully the next round of working, i can paint at least 25-30 ft and use the sprayer.



But the next task has now become getting the first pallet rack section up.
More on that as i get it done.

To be continued...

 

[86turbodsl]

So this afternoons' task was to move enough stuff around to get the welder setup to fix the pallet racks after shortening them.

After that was done, clear up room to bandsaw the new cross braces for the ends of the pallet rack. Since i cut the 18' pallet rack at 12', the ends towards the top were free to float for about 48", which won't work with any heavy loads. I picked up 2" channel at the steel outlet, and cut five of them to fit the ends.



Then fitted to the uprights at about 9" from the ends (similar to original position) and squared to the uprights. Fixturing was the tough part here, since nothing is exactly straight, and the crossbrace was a little loose, it wanted to float around a bit. I used a ratchet strap to squeeze the ends closer together for a tighter fit, and tapped the crossbrace into position. I used magnetic angle holders also. I tacked the crossbrace into the upright with 6011 at 90amps. Uprights and crossbraces have similar section thickness, so it burned in real nice.

Then i took the original angle braces and cut one end off and fitted to the modified section as original. And tacked that in. I used c-clamps to snug up the fits and they burned in real nice. What i'm left with is a modified upright that looks like the orginal 18' tall ones, but with the top section just a bit shorter than it had been. Should work just fine for this project.





Now set this aside and do 4 more, then start painting uprights. That should be fun...

 

[Boost Creep]

not too long ago i wondered if there was any 80's era escorts left in the world. now i know. lol. first car was an 86 gt.

 

[Strouty]

This is going to be a huge step forward. The racking will help you get a bunch of stuff up off the floor, that will make everything easier. This includes bringing in more stuff, so try not to do that!

 

[86turbodsl]

Oh, don't worry, adding stuff is NOT on the agenda. Making the shop functional is. I have a honey-do list a mile long, that needs a working workshop/woodshop, and about two dozen people that think i can't do it. That's a pretty good motivator...

 

[86turbodsl]

not too long ago i wondered if there was any 80's era escorts left in the world. now i know. lol. first car was an 86 gt.

LOL. Yeah, i probably should have scrapped these a long time ago. They're all diesels. I can't remember last time i saw one on the road. Rust belt is NOT kind to these things.

 

[86turbodsl]

Ok, slight change in plans, i got back from a half a week business trip in Cali, where i managed to pickup a cold. I'm kinda under the weather, so i decided to forego any further welding for now, and just paint two uprights and 3 shelves.

I used the sawhorses to block the uprights off the ground, and i will paint in two shifts, flipping after the first coat. It's not a factory finish, but it's enough to get it looking decent at 5 feet.





The color is Ford/service blue.

Then i took 6 of the 4.5" beams over to the house and washed the dirt off, then brought back and setup here to grind any rust bubbles off. Once that's done, they'll get a coat of massey red.



One thing's sure, this process is excruciatingly slow. Wait 10-24 hrs between coats, and flip counts as a coat. I'd need to setup a much bigger space and find a better way to get these coated to go much faster.

More later...

 

[Strouty]

Looking good. ***** getting a cold this time of year.

 

[86turbodsl]

Uprights are done, painted 3 sides of the first 6 beams today. Should be able to flip and paint remainder tomorrow, which means theoretically, i should be able to start assembly by tuesday night.

I put the beams up on the uprights standing on edge, with 2x4 crossing, and was too flimsy and fell down. Touched up the one in place and put two more there to dry. My RAS benches became a secondary holder.





Getting hard to not be excited about getting this done.

Paint dries slow!

 

[Strouty]

I see a big motor in the background!

You are more dedicated than me, if I started painting things, nothing would ever get done. I figure the patina is good enough, but there certainly are a few things that I wish I had actually painted.

 

[86turbodsl]

Well, my reasoning was that if i didn't do it now, it will all be assembled and much harder to get done later if i wanted to. Some of the beams are really rough looking, so it was hard to not want to do it. Plus the orange was ugly. I only like orange when it's on a KTM.

The motor is the fabled 50hp motor.

 

[Strouty]

I figured that was the motor, it is quite late for sure. You are absolutely right about it being harder to do later, I don't think I will ever paint mine.

 

[86turbodsl]

This was tonights triumph:



My boy and I got this up in a couple of hours.

Right now, i have about 24" from ceiling to 3rd shelf, 20" from 3rd to 2nd, and 23 from 2nd to 1st. I think i might move the 1st and 2nd shelves down a notch, which would give me 24, 23, 23" spacing. The bottom shelf is just out of arms reach except at the rail. Plenty of headroom. There's 112" between uprights, i will build a workbench between uprights for two sections.

I put 2x8 blocking on the beams.



2x4 was actually about $10 cheaper, but the form factor for 2x8 is much better. I bought 14' and cut 5 out of each, with a 8x8 chunk left over. It's about $100 per section for wood, not cheap, but neither is plywood, osb, or racks. I like the wood.

The pallet racking is Sturdi-bilt brand, by Unarco, allegedly the original pallet rack from the 50's. Not as nice to assemble as teardrop, but not too bad with 2 guys. I install one beam on the ground level at waist height, just to stabilize everything, then put a shelf in up high. Much easier than finagling everything on a couple of ladders.

I think i will install a 2x4 block behind the upright and fasten to the wall. That will solidify it, and also block it out so the clips are accessible. They stick out a bit on this design. That will also allow me to run conduit or whatever right on the wall without fussing with the racking.

Tonights final shot:



I'll be starting to pull materials off the floor in front of the table saw, along the wall in the center of the photo. Once i get everything loaded up, i'll take another photo from the same vantage point so everyone can see how much pallet racking can clean things up.

More later...

 

[Strouty]

That is one big step ladder. Looks like you will get some floor space back soon, how does it feel?

 

[86turbodsl]

Im so excited I cant stand it. Maybe tomorrow.

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[Strouty]

I am excited for you. I hope you have a productive day.

 

[OldSoldier]

I dig it!

 

[86turbodsl]

Tonight i moved the bottom 2 shelves down a notch, got the racking fastened to the wall as best i could, and cut the rest of the decking. What a pain. Perfect job for my RAS. But used a circular saw. Measure, mark, square, mark, cut, repeat. Dozens of times. Could be 10X faster. Oh well.

Those 3 shelves are worth 75 square feet of floor space. That will add up fast.

Tomorrow we go visit with our church group, so nothing gets done, but friday my wife and daughter go out of town for 3 days. So we will go nuts on organizing!

Stay tuned.

 

[86turbodsl]

Started loading the shelves up. Here's where it stands currently:



Bottom shelf contains ALL of the VW parts, and ALL of the Yanmar parts. 2nd shelf is only moderately loaded, and got all of the plumbing, electrical, motors and fasteners off the floor. Top shelf has barrel pumps, bicycle parts and is 2/3 empty.

Here's what floor got cleared:

This area had all the VW parts:


This area was completely full:


And overall:


The area between the barrel and the rack had all the yanmar parts. Thats empty now too.


I'm saving all the motorcycle parts for the area i will be building a workbench and tables for the bikes.

It's becoming more clear that this will be a multi-phase project, mainly getting items off the floor and making floorspace, to be able to get more done on the building.

It's tough to get heavier stuff up on the shelves. And i need to get a bunch of totes to start putting things in. Half of the second shelf will get moved into bins when i get a workbench built. I'm not filling the shelves very full and quite a lot of floor was cleared.

Now i need to move the motorcycles, and use the engine hoist to move my big drill press away from the wall, and should be able to get more wall done now.

 

[Strouty]

Just keep in mind that it didn't get messy and disorganized overnight, so it will take some time to figure things out. Looks good and it is always nice to gain floor space. One thing I would say is do not try and fill every bin, especially if they get too heavy. Also get some of the blue painters tape and a sharpie to label stuff until you get things figured out. I wish I had done that during the boxing process. I now have about 30 green totes (identical in every way) that are not labeled and full to the brim with all kinds of things.

 

[cat06]

looking good!

could you do me one favor though, It's your shop and tools to do with as you please, I know.
But I cringe every time I see the picture of the mower deck leaning on the powermatic fence rails and the cords and stuff on the saw table, could you move all that...Please, lol Thanks

 

[86turbodsl]

Lol. True enough. Ive never seen a good way to store cords. Looking for ideas!

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[86turbodsl]

looking good!

could you do me one favor though, It's your shop and tools to do with as you please, I know.
But I cringe every time I see the picture of the mower deck leaning on the powermatic fence rails and the cords and stuff on the saw table, could you move all that...Please, lol Thanks

Cat, mower deck removed, lol. The stuff on the table has to stay for a bit. I have no other table!

 

[cat06]

Cool, Thanks! Those fence rails are saying Thanks also

 

[Spareparts]

You need a small fork lift. I always found it easier to start the lower shelves first and work up, gives you somewhere to stand besides on a ladder, they just kill my legs. When I did my racking I visited several construction (house) sites and picked up their cutoffs with permission of course. They wanted to get rid of them and I was eager to get them.

 

[Spareparts]

And by the way nice job.

 

[Strouty]

I do agree with Spareparts. I only have 12' 6" ceilings and my forklift is great, you could add a pallet racking galore and the forklift would easily get to it.

 

[86turbodsl]

I will get one eventually, but for right now we will just work through it.

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