Above 1200 Sq/FT 86's 20HP shop

[Strouty]

Yes, ticks, two just today and all I did was walk out back, hardly any grass so I guess I would want to do the same thing.

 

[86turbodsl]

Didn't get to work on the door today, but this is yesterday's work.

Today I washed the car, dealt with family issues and changed oil in the push mower.

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[86turbodsl]

Finally making some more headway on the door opener.

I wanted the welded halves to be held together by fasteners and yet still able to separate to service the straps if needed.

Mounted the welded assemblies in the bridgeport chuck and ran shaft and keys thru to align. Then located my holes and drilled thru.


Then tapped.


Moved to the second location and repeat then install capscrews.


One finished assembly.


Both of them ready for sandblast and checking strap clearances.

 

[86turbodsl]

Sandblasted and ready for paint.

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[Strouty]

Looking good, bet you will be some glad the first time you push a button and have the door go up without 45 minutes worth of effort.

 

[86turbodsl]

Looking good, bet you will be some glad the first time you push a button and have the door go up without 45 minutes worth of effort.

Man, you said it there.

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[86turbodsl]

Took the day off to work on my sons ride, a 2012 Kia Rio. We've had an intermittent crank position sensor signal loss, it's fine when cold, and loses contact when it gets hot. I replaced the sensor a couple of times, and the ECU, but it didn't fix it. I figured the last thing left is the wiring harness. I am working on pulling that, it's a train wreck. I figure the harness is LITERALLY the first thing on the vehicle at the plant. It's behind the brake lines, ABS pump, AC lines, brake booster and everything else in the engine bay. AND it goes straight into the interior, WITHOUT a bulkhead connector. Damn cheapskate Koreans. I hate that car.

 

[Strouty]

Does it look like the wires are bad at the firewall? That sounds like the kind of fun no one wants to have.

 

[86turbodsl]

Unknown. I got it all out this morning. I'm going to take it to work and inspect with our wiring guy. The crank signal doesn't go into the car I think.

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[Strouty]

Hopefully the crank signal thinks the same thing you do....

 

[matt_i]

You are a busy man! Vehicle harness issues are turrible, I think I'd rather sell the thing....

Anyway, I feel like I need to comment on mowing ...while not the fastest thing out there a Farmall A/Super A with Woods mower is a tough robust tractor that you don't have to work on all the time. Any part of the tractor is available for purchase with the exception of the castings and stampings but there are boneyards full of parts in most parts of the eastern US. All I did was to change the tractor to 12v, cook up a mini alternator setup and redo the entire wiring harness (ignition, lights, charging circuit, and the B+/neg heavy wires, couple of spade fuses) and now I just hop on and mow. Better yet I also got a Farmall Cub for my kids to learn on. You get two tractors mowing and now you have saved some serious time in your life

Hopefully if you integrate the diesel it will run a long time w no issues.

Nice looking parts on the door opener, maybe I missed it but is the door counterbalanced or is the conveyor doing all of the work? Just be careful if its lifting the entire thing...a fail somewhere could be very bad if a person was in the wrong position.

Edit: after thinking about this in my sleep it did occur to me that if you have a motor with a bad unobtanium conrod, just make another one out of steel flat bar. It will take some care to make it but its not totally out of line for a guy with a Bridgeport and a boring head, especially if you're already sitting on a grenade. Just needs to be mass-balanced with the other rods (which I'd do with a file or belt sander lol...just saying that the center of the rod could basically be bandsaw finish for as much as the motor cares, steel will be much stronger in tension in the center section) and have close clearances especially on the wrist pin.

 

[kent_323is]

I feel your pain on the mowing...
I originally started mowing my big lawn with a small 38" JD110.... I quickly upgraded to JD F725 front mower with 54" deck.
I'm now up to 1.85 acres and it takes me about 2.5 hrs to mow the whole thing. I also have 1.8 acres of pasture that I currently don't mow.

I wonder how long it would actually take you to get that diesel engine into your mower if you focused on it? Seems like that would be time well spent, and not waste time on a grenaded engine... just punt it and focus on what you actually want.
Any progress you make with the diesel is at least moving forward the long term plan.
If you get the B&S one together, there's a chance it could blow up the first time you're back out mowing, and then you're back to square one.

 

[86turbodsl]

You are a busy man! Vehicle harness issues are turrible, I think I'd rather sell the thing....

Anyway, I feel like I need to comment on mowing ...while not the fastest thing out there a Farmall A/Super A with Woods mower is a tough robust tractor that you don't have to work on all the time. Any part of the tractor is available for purchase with the exception of the castings and stampings but there are boneyards full of parts in most parts of the eastern US. All I did was to change the tractor to 12v, cook up a mini alternator setup and redo the entire wiring harness (ignition, lights, charging circuit, and the B+/neg heavy wires, couple of spade fuses) and now I just hop on and mow. Better yet I also got a Farmall Cub for my kids to learn on. You get two tractors mowing and now you have saved some serious time in your life

Hopefully if you integrate the diesel it will run a long time w no issues.

Nice looking parts on the door opener, maybe I missed it but is the door counterbalanced or is the conveyor doing all of the work? Just be careful if its lifting the entire thing...a fail somewhere could be very bad if a person was in the wrong position.

Edit: after thinking about this in my sleep it did occur to me that if you have a motor with a bad unobtanium conrod, just make another one out of steel flat bar. It will take some care to make it but its not totally out of line for a guy with a Bridgeport and a boring head, especially if you're already sitting on a grenade. Just needs to be mass-balanced with the other rods (which I'd do with a file or belt sander lol...just saying that the center of the rod could basically be bandsaw finish for as much as the motor cares, steel will be much stronger in tension in the center section) and have close clearances especially on the wrist pin.

Matt,

I don't know if it came across in the previous postings, but i do have an antique tractor, an Oliver Super 55, and a couple of mowers, a 5' bushhog and a 6' Land pride finish mower. I used to mow exclusively with that until i found the ZTR last summer. Shortly after i bought it, the PTO clutch on the Oliver literally blew up. Like chunks came out the bottom hatch. On that particular tractor, you have to split the tractor into 2 halves to repair. I figured it was no big deal, i ordered the parts to fix it, and due to the difficulty, figured i'd get to it eventually. I didn't need it at the moment as there were no post holes to dig, no sprayers to run, no baler to run, etc.
Fast forward to this spring, and you know the rule, when one machine is down, another is not far behind.

A large reason for the scramble to get the door done is so i can pull the oliver into the shop and do the repair. We've now got so much grass that the bushhog is the ONLY thing that will get through it now.

The door opener is not counterbalanced. I copied the basic design of the Schwiess aircraft hanger doors. The straps are rated at about 10X the door weight EACH. I figure my safety margin is at least 15. I could have done it with one of course, but then would lack that additional margin.

A large reason for the idea behind the hand grenade motor was i had already bought quite a lot of parts for the rebuild. Just can't find the right rods. Supposedly they are different from non pressure lubed, but all i can verify is they don't have the oil dipper bolted on the bottom. I have heard there is a different oiling hole directed at the wrist pins, but i can't find anyone to verify it. I've been posting on a garden tractor forum looking for answers but most of the people posting on there are seemingly barely literate and there's not much traffic. I suppose this product doesn't engender a large following since they are pretty much throw away engines.

Maybe i should just go for the diesel and just sell the other stuff ? It does seem like a waste of time right now. If i was going to go to the time and trouble of making expensive rods, i'd just buy the racing rods available for about $150 each. I just don't want to spend any more money on it though.

 

[86turbodsl]

I wonder how long it would actually take you to get that diesel engine into your mower if you focused on it? Seems like that would be time well spent, and not waste time on a grenaded engine... just punt it and focus on what you actually want.
Any progress you make with the diesel is at least moving forward the long term plan.
If you get the B&S one together, there's a chance it could blow up the first time you're back out mowing, and then you're back to square one.

I think there's some wisdom here.

The diesel really seems like it will fit well in the space. I have to chop the oil pan down, and i have the TIG. I do think of it as more of a winter project though. I really need to get burner 2.0 up and running while there's still grass growing.

I think the mower is probably a couple of months of work part time. I have to build a bellhousing for it to mount the electric PTO off the original mower. It's not a problem, we've done similar at work in past. I also need to get the flywheel off and CMM the rear mount plate so i can get a bellhousing cover plasma'd out. Still need to develop a method to center the pto for concentricity. i'm not worried.

The water cooling is probably my biggest issue. I need to mount a radiator probably off the back above the tail wheel while still being able to get at the gas tank. Maybe i'll just reshape the rear end. Dunno yet. Stay tuned.

 

[86turbodsl]

Last night i got the door driveshaft welded up. And all the brackets mounted on the door are tacked in place. I need to make some gussets and weld it all solid then the driveshaft and straps can go back in.

Got a dinner to attend tonight so it might have to wait for tomorrow. And the stupid harness wants attention too. Ugh. I'm too busy.

 

[Strouty]

Just think, every time you use the power to open the door it will save you 40 minutes.

 

[86turbodsl]

Ha! We'll see it it works first!

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[86turbodsl]

I hate welding on a ladder. Seems like the welder is acting up too. Wire would stop sometimes. Not the feeder either.

Critiques welcome.



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[86turbodsl]

Smoothing and rounding edges. Don't want anything sharp around the webbing.

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[OldSoldier]

Your welds on the ladder are better than mine on the ground!

 

[86turbodsl]

Thank you, i need it to be solid, 1000lbs over my head!

I think i need to open up the front of the door and weld some more gussets in.

 

[Strouty]

If I do one of these doors, I am using aluminum, that is a lot of weight!

 

[86turbodsl]

It's a lot of steel. The bottom was about 450lbs. I figure double that by the time it's all added up.

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[Strouty]

Is there a safety or backup so you don't get "compacted" if it lets go?

 

[86turbodsl]

No, how would that work? The schweiss doors don't have any backup either. Each strap is rated at 10,000 lbs. Best i can do.

I bought oil for the gearbox today. $55 for 2 qts at Grainger!!!!

Special oil in worm gear boxes with bronze gears.

 

[u3b3rg33k]

No, how would that work? The schweiss doors don't have any backup either. Each strap is rated at 10,000 lbs. Best i can do.

I bought oil for the gearbox today. $55 for 2 qts at Grainger!!!!

Special oil in worm gear boxes with bronze gears.

so $25 direct from mfg? i kid but Grainger always seems to have the highest prices in town, right next to Graybar.

 

[86turbodsl]

Grainger mainly because they had it and I didn't have to wait. Even online was not much savings. It's a specialty oil because it's a worm gear box with brass gears.

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[u3b3rg33k]

Smarter than dumping in a random GL-5 oil and then wondering why your worm gear was gone in a few years.

 

[86turbodsl]

Yeah, good thing i tend to read literature from what i buy. I had no idea the oil needed to be no sulphur. I got the synthetic too, so it should be good for the rest of my life anyway.

 

[matthimself456]

Smarter than dumping in a random GL-5 oil and then wondering why your worm gear was gone in a few years.

In this application if the worm gear failed I'm not sure you'd ever have the chance to wonder.

This is some very inspirational work, 86. I love watching this thread.

 

[86turbodsl]

Thanks. I did think about a counterweight at each corner, we will see how it lifts. I pulled some metal last night and welded the last of the gussets in. I'll do the other side tonight and should start mounting the gearbox this Saturday.

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[matthimself456]

Not to add complication but another approach to some kind of redundancy would be some automatic way of limiting the speed of closing. That could be some sort of hydraulic damper or a centrifugal lock like a seatbelt mechanism. Something that would engage only in the event that part of the primary mechanism were to let go and stop/slow the door from falling. Not as simple as counterweights but could certainly be smaller (and lighter).

Or even a latching mechanism at full open would be relatively simple and provide a good measure of just-in-case. Just like the locks on an automotive lift. When its up it will stay up and when its raising or lowering just stay out of its path.

Its really not all that much weight for the mechanism you're building but the comment above about the worm gear wear made me a little nervous.

 

[86turbodsl]

I will have to think about some sort of secondary system. Nothing very easy to engineer comes to mind at the moment. I guess i could counterweight, that would probably slow it down and lower the forces anyway. Wonder what schwiess does? I don't see anything secondary on it. And they appear to use a worm box too. I'm thinking it would give quite a lot of warning before it let go.

Maybe a pneumatic cylinder type setup that has an orifice on it? I'll think about it.

 

[86turbodsl]

I think i have a system worked out. Basically a block and tackle with a hydraulic cylinder in the center. If it works the way i think it will, a short travel cylinder will amplify forces and give enough cable travel to work properly. It'll be an emergency only system, just designed to limit fall of the door to something manageably slow.

I'd put a spring on it to extend the cylinder and a metering valve on the cylinder to limit fluid flow to a manageable level.

 

[Strouty]

Damn mechanical engineers, always making complicated things................

 

[86turbodsl]

Damn mechanical engineers, always making complicated things................

Yeah, if i only had stuck with a rollup...

 

[Strouty]

I think in the end this will be the coolest option by far. I am looking forward to seeing it done, then you can post other cool stuff instead of cranking on the handle for 40 minutes.

 

[86turbodsl]

4:1 multiplication, 12' lift, turns into 3' stroke. 2.5" cylinder with 4000lbs on it is 800psi. A needle valve on the outlet should do nicely. A spring extension and resevoir above should work. About a 100 bucks at surplus center.

 

[86turbodsl]

I think in the end this will be the coolest option by far. I am looking forward to seeing it done, then you can post other cool stuff instead of cranking on the handle for 40 minutes.

I'm hoping to get it operational by this weekend. It's that close. I do need to get a VFD for the drive motor though. I can't see starting the RPC to run it every time. I'm on the hunt. Since it's only 3/4hp, should be cheap.

 

[Strouty]

I am probably not as excited about this as your forearms are, but I am excited! Maybe you could post a video, one with dramatic music...............