Above 1200 Sq/FT 86's 20HP shop

[bimmer1980]

Candidly, while redundancy and safety lock sound like a dire need, I would say that with the safety factor, etc, that it is probably unnecessary.

If anything, put a sliding bolt lock on the track about 2 to 4 from off the floor so if the door slams down, it catches on something....

I personally think you have already designed for reliability. How many times are you going to be directly working under the door opening?

Overhead cranes, hoists etc do not have a secondary load catch mechanism, as they are designed with a safety factor. However, it is always good practice (or requirement) that you not stand under the load.

Just get the opener working an you can go from there.....

Best of luck this weekend!

 

[Strouty]

Overhead cranes, hoists etc do not have a secondary load catch mechanism, as they are designed with a safety factor. However, it is always good practice (or requirement) that you not stand under the load.

Unless you have a hard hat on, then you are safe..............

 

[86turbodsl]

I don't think a hard hat will be enough...

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[86turbodsl]

I am probably not as excited about this as your forearms are, but I am excited! Maybe you could post a video, one with dramatic music...............

Good idea. I'll try to do that.

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[matthimself456]

4:1 multiplication, 12' lift, turns into 3' stroke. 2.5" cylinder with 4000lbs on it is 800psi. A needle valve on the outlet should do nicely. A spring extension and resevoir above should work. About a 100 bucks at surplus center.

That's a pretty slick idea. Put a whistle on the outlet of the needle valve and you have an integrated alarm too!

And to all the naysayers taking the simple way is not how one gets to end up with an awesome bi-fold hangar door, an automated waste oil furnace, or a PLC-controlled hobby barn. I think the simple ship sailed long ago here. I can relate, though. My entire life is an overestimation of my free time and abilities to do it my 'better' way rather than what everyone else does.

 

[86turbodsl]

That's a pretty slick idea. Put a whistle on the outlet of the needle valve and you have an integrated alarm too!

And to all the naysayers taking the simple way is not how one gets to end up with an awesome bi-fold hangar door, an automated waste oil furnace, or a PLC-controlled hobby barn. I think the simple ship sailed long ago here.


I can relate, though. My entire life is an overestimation of my free time and abilities to do it my 'better' way rather than what everyone else does.

Man you just nailed it.

 

[86turbodsl]

Thought i might show my gusseting process. I already had the side to side gusseting done from inside, but as the door opens, the forces move to more normal to the door surface, which tries to rip the opener mount straight off the door. Can't have that.



This is what i started with at the bottom.



Clamped my cnc plasma gussets in place...



And send it.



The top side is tougher, because i have wood for panel attachment in the way.
I have to take that out first. The tubing is sectioned in half around the wood, and to keep it from pivoting out at the cut, i have to cap the whole backside up to the top.



Clamp some smaller gussets in place.



Then add a section of angle iron.



Added a cap on top of the angle and then sent it all home. I was fighting a bit of porosity, due to being outside and there being an occasional breeze. If it had been any windier, i would have had to break out the stick welder, which i would prefer not to do with this more pinpoint welding in cramped areas. Well, that and it was setup for tig at the moment and i don't have quick connects yet.

Now is a good time to break for lunch then get the last inner gusset/mount welded in and get the building buttoned back up and move inside. Want to hang the driveshaft today after lunch.


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[86turbodsl]

The inside corner gusset holds the wood on that end. Got the metal all back on and then had dinner and installed the driveshaft. My boy was invaluable.

Then ran the straps. Once it get the gear box installed I can set the strap length and get rid of the extra couple feet.

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[86turbodsl]

Got the gearbox in place and waiting for the torque reaction structure. Going to Mom's house tomorrow. May not get it open until Monday.

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[1Garageman]

Maybe I missed it, sorry if I did, but what kind of motor(s) will be installed to move the door?

 

[86turbodsl]

I have a 3/4hp 3 phase 56c mount motor for it.

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[kent_323is]

If you are still having issues with your MIG welder, it may be the liner on the gun/cable/hose assembly. They do wear out, and just need to be replaced. You can make them last a bit longer if you rotate the whole liner 90 degrees, as it puts the wear points at a different spot on the liner. You have to release it on both ends, then rotate it. It is actually easier to just buy a new liner for $15-20 and be done with it.
It will feed the wire much better.

On the door....
Would a torsion spring and cable arrangement work? That would take some load off the gearbox & motor, and also provide some level of redundancy and safety.
Industrial garage doors tend to be large and heavy, and you should be able to find those springs relatively easily. The whole shaft, springs, and pulleys could be an off the shelf item, and much simpler.

 

[86turbodsl]

I will check into the liner. I've never changed it. The torsion spring probably wouldn't work. I would need a set of drums that would work for the weight profile of the door. As far as I know all hanger doors work like mine. Winch the bottom up.

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[86turbodsl]

Didn't get much done yesterday so trying to make up today. Welded in some bracing for the gearbox. Triangles are your friend. I realized I need to provide for oil level changes as this thing leans over so I need to come up with something. Ordered a eBay vfd to run the motor. I can test with phase converter though after lunch.

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[86turbodsl]

Today was a momentous day. After many years, we have an operational door. I completed the opener install, minus permanent wiring. I welded all the framework into the door structure, then finished out by buying a funnel and hose to get the 42 ounces of oil into the gearbox. Then I had to add a compression fitting and a breather to keep oil from running out of the gearbox when the door opens and the gearbox rolls over. The results speak for themselves.







Sorry, i tried to edit the videos into something more flashy, but none of the programs i have on linux will read the weird LG phone files i took. Youtube would though.

Opening:

And closing:

 

[1Garageman]

Awesome videos showing it in action! I bet you saved a TON of money doing this all yourself!

 

[86turbodsl]

Thank you. Best estimate I have is about 3 to 4 thousand dollars. I have about a grand in the door. The original 16x12 garage door was 1000 when we built the shop in 2000.

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[bimmer1980]

Good enough! Is the video sped up? It seems to open pretty quickly!

Will the temporary wiring work sufficiently well for you to move on to the tractor/mower project?

 

[86turbodsl]

The video is not sped up. It opens faster than I expected. I am very happy with the speed.
I used the 50 to 1 gearbox I had.

The wiring needs some work. I have to stop and reverse the rpc rotation to lower right now. It's a pain. But I am going to get started cleaning up and do the tractor repair.

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[Strouty]

Looks great, now you just need an airplane............

Hope you have a good Fourth.

 

[rattle_snake]

Nicely done Sir.
Not your average door or lift hardware. I like the custom, one of-a-kind solution.

 

[86turbodsl]

Thank you gents, i hope you all have a good 4th too.

I went to town and found a garage door supplier who sold me 2" aluminum retainer and weatherstrip for the bottom of the door. I have to open partially and work on getting it installed. Once i get that done, i'm going to work on clearing space to get the tractor inside. It's going to speed way up now!

 

[86turbodsl]

I took the morning off and went to fetch a stash of oil from a nearby town, then after i got back, i installed the door weatherstrip molding. Held it on the door with c-clamps, then used a tap and tapped the holes, installing 12-24 machine screws. I've blocked the bottom of the door out so i can get at the channels. Since it's the 4th, we'll go out for dinner and then i'll get it installed.

Pics.

 

[86turbodsl]

Dang it. Installed the 6in weatherstrip with pipe insulation in center and it is too tall. Need to pull it back out and get 4in without the insulation. Hope that works or I will be putting in a edge seal.

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[86turbodsl]

Got the door opener drive in, verified it works. Started working on the panel again. Should be semi operational by tomorrow.

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[Strouty]

Looking good, too bad about the weather seal you had not working out.

 

[86turbodsl]

Arrrg! So close. The strain relief i had did not fit the soow cord connecting the ceiling mounted box with the motor. I ordered the correct size but amazon says tuesday. Guess i shall let the cord flop around for a couple days and wire it anyway. I want this door open without running the rpc. Also found a little bit of a drip of oil. I don't know if it's from when i didn't have the vent or not. I hope the input shaft seal isn't leaking... that would be sucky.

 

[86turbodsl]

Looking good, too bad about the weather seal you had not working out.

Thanks. Yeah, it *****. I didn't plan on the aluminum bottom extrusion adding so much depth. The inside of the aluminum at the concrete is maybe 1/4 in distance. It won't take much to seal it. I'm going to try dropping down to a 3 or 4 in wide seal. That should get it done. Shoot garage doors sit right on the concrete with those seals, this one should be able to do the same.

 

[Strouty]

I have used that type of seal on my crappy old wooden doors, it was amazing, I used to have water coming under my door when it rained. This stopped all the issues and the weatherstripping I added to the side fixed most of the drafts.

I hope it is just residual oil, I have been tricked by that before.

 

[86turbodsl]

Some success today, i got the door opening by button up and down, no RPC. The system works well. I will post a video later. Stoked!


Edit. Vid.

 

[bimmer1980]

Awesome! Glad to see it working!

 

[jbmatth]

Congrats on getting it working, does the door go up further than the video's you've posted? Also what keeps the bottom of the door tight against the frame when it is down? The video seems to show it shaking when put all the way down.

 

[86turbodsl]

I currently have no upper limits set. It's just as far as I've gone. I have an internal strap and roller assembly I will be adding to keep the bottom planted. I have it off right now to work on the weatherstrip. I pull the bottom out from the track right now to gain access.

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[86turbodsl]

The family took a poll and decided i need to get another car operational. So i'll be working on that for a few days and letting the barn sit. It'll be there when i get done. Stay tuned.

 

[jbmatth]

Thanks for the replies, and great job on the door, it is very cool to see a bi-fold door like this in action.

JB

 

[86turbodsl]

Thanks jb. It was cool to finally get it done! Lol.

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[Strouty]

How is the door? How is the weather? Too hot?

 

[86turbodsl]

Sorry, just getting back here. I think i mentioned i was taking a little break to get another car fixed. My kid has been driving our old 2012 Kia Rio. About a year ago or so, it developed an odd problem where the crank position sensor would drop out and it would buck like a bronco just got stung by a hornet, but ONLY if the car was hot and/or the weather was hot. It was very intermittent. If it lasted long enough, it would drop the signal alltogether and run in limp mode until next key cycle. I replaced the crank sensor 2 times, and the ECU once. Neither worked, so i figured it had to be in the harness. I didn't know where though. I figured it had to come out. I finally did that and took the whole harness out. Unfortunately in this car, that's a BIG harness. No firewall bulkhead. So that means laying under the dash too. It was a BIG job. A replacement harness is $1200. I had 18 hours into removal and so far about 10 into putting it back. We found the problem. BARELY. I took it to work and my harness guy there spotted a little bit of rust on the tape in one spot. We started to cut away and found it had rubbed through on a bracket and rubbed off the XLPE covering on the wire of guess which circuit? The CKP. So, when the engine or weather got hot, it would grow the engine ever so slightly and ground out the signal wire on the bracket.
Million to one shot and we found it.

Spent a bit of Saturday and Sunday putting it back together, and Monday after work, i was feeling a bit ill, so only bolted on a couple of things, and by bedtime was having bad stomach pains. Tuesday i was OUT of commission. Today i'm back at work, but taking it REAL easy. Feel like my guts got put in a blender and somebody hit "FRAPPE"

 

[Strouty]

Fingers crossed it solves the issue and I hope you feel better.

 

[86turbodsl]

I'm slowly getting better. Actually did a little in the shop last night. Should be good this weekend. I'm about 95% done with the car.

I might have to work on more vehicles soon though, i kind of got "elected" to get the bike back on the road for a company ride day. I could probably beg off if i had to, but the guys at work are really wanting me to be able to ride again. I didn't realize it's been 7 years! I parked it in 2012 with a leaky base gasket. Can't believe how fast time flies.