Above 1200 Sq/FT 86's 20HP shop

[86turbodsl]

Forging won't straighten cold. I used heat.

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[86turbodsl]

I missed a few pages but I didn't see why you had to split up the tractor? Clutch? Rear Main? I'm impressed a couple of 5 gallon pails can hold that much up...I have these repurposed pieces of 2x4 glulam beam, probably a foot tall, that's turned on end with a big foot & gussets, etc from that original split.

I see what you saw now. The 5 gallon buckets are holding the ends of the loader frame up a little to keep the sheetmetal from getting bent. The tractor is held up with jacks.

 

[86turbodsl]

Forging won't straighten cold. I used heat.

Well, not with any amount of force i can apply anyway...

 

[jbmatth]

It is hard to say if I would recommend heat treating or not without knowing if they were before and how they are actually used. Downside of heat treating is they will be more likely to brittle fracture, but upside is they will be less likely to bend. What caused them to bend in the first place?

JB

 

[86turbodsl]

Who knows. Might be friction imparting a side load. Or an impact. The grease tube was broken, so the sliding interface has been ungreased for who knows how long. The part that pushes on that part is brass/bronze and does not appear to have any wear. Only two of the levers were bent, and one was bent nearly sideways. Both straightened right up with heat.
I have the links that were broken, i'm going to go look for signs of fatigue. The normal force vectors i think are going to be mostly in the line of most strength. I need to talk to the dealer and see what they say.

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[86turbodsl]

One of the sharp guys at work here reminded me about hardened/heat treated steels not cutting easily with a file. The parts are dead soft. So i don't need to do anything else. All the needed parts were located and are enroute, we should be back in business this weekend.

 

[86turbodsl]

Well, the latest in the saga....

Got a call back from the tractor dealer, best in the country for the old Olivers. The parts i needed are no longer available. Sold out years ago. There are upgrade parts available, but that requires changing out a bunch of stuff for $$$. The link plates are hardened, so we think we are going to try making the 4 small plates from 4142 prehard. It's just 1/4" holes 7/8" apart in a flat plate. Looks like a chain link. I'm not paying more than 200 just to avoid a little fab work.

 

[Strouty]

That stinks about the part availability, I know you can fab up something that will most likely work better and be stronger than the OEM anyways.

 

[Perrorojo]

Did you check EBAY for parts? Ebay ***** but there are a lot of things on there. What are you looking for?

 

[86turbodsl]

I did check eBay. Nothing currently. Linkage for the PTO. Basically looks like roller chain master link plates, but doesn't match roller chain standards.

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[86turbodsl]

Ended up ordering 4142 prehard strip and a carbide cutter. Going in the Bridgeport tomorrow.

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[matt_i]

A decent way to case harden something is Kasenite. Sort of a black carbon powder and need an oxyacet torch. They won't be thru-hardened but you can build up the case by deeper applications for wear apps. A toolmaker I worked with could get a 1018 part case'd enough that a file wouldn't touch it.

 

[86turbodsl]

Pretty amazing when the base metal is as soft as 1018.

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[racer-john]

How are the "dog bones" coming? Inquiring minds need to know!

 

[86turbodsl]

When I went in to work on Friday, the machinist who was going to program the machine took a mental health day. The 4142 and carbide end mill are in and ready. Should be done this week. I'll update with photos when we get started.

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[86turbodsl]

Got the bridgeport work done, now need to section the parts and check for fit. I'm probably a couple days out from this being done.

This weekend, i tore into the house plumbing to fix an issue and created more issues. Now i am going to tear into it again tonight and try to fix those issues.

UGH.

 

[Strouty]

That seems to be a common theme in a lot of our lives these days......

 

[86turbodsl]

Yup.

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[86turbodsl]

Pic of the steel machined and prior to cutting up.



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[86turbodsl]

This project is finally coming together. Got the links cut up and radii made. Thickness was not a problem.

Links next to the old one.

And then assembled. It works perfect. Now to get everything cleaned up and put on the tractor. Tomorrow's project.

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[Strouty]

That is great, is that all you need to get the tractor working again?

 

[86turbodsl]

Yes, pretty much. I have to clean the whole area up. Lots of grease in there. I'll pickup some brake clean on the way home and hopefully get this wrapped up this weekend.

 

[Strouty]

Then you can mow your own grass!

Did the neighbor continue to mow or is it a giant hay field now? Either way, it will be nice to have the tractor back, I feel naked without equipment.

 

[86turbodsl]

It's a giant hayfield. They got tired of me.

I made a gallant effort at it, but only got the PTO clutch installed this weekend. What a giant pain the ****. Got the clutch assembled and tried to put into the tractor. No bueno. I had to disassemble it again and reassemble ON the tractor in pieces. Then assemble little tiny spring pins INSIDE the tractor. And everything is covered in grease. So it was a long exercise. Now i am working on getting the linkages and whatnot cleaned up and fixed and continue with assembly. And it rained all weekend too. Just generally dismal. And cold weather is still coming. I'm likely going to have to use burner #1 by the time cold weather hits. I might try and finagle some quick connects so i can experiment on the weekend. We'll see. At least most of the years' oil is already inside in the storage.

Seems like a wasted year at this point.

 

[Strouty]

Hopefully you won’t get any snow before you fix the tractor.

 

[86turbodsl]

It just got worse. I was working to install the linkage last night. Got it all installed and tried to pull the lever to engage. No bueno. So i pulled back to disengage. The stack of plates slid out of the spider hub and made a mess. That shaft is not supposed to move. I think i found the reason that whole assembly blew up in the first place. A thorough look at the parts blowup shows a spring pin that holds the shaft into the hub. I think when i tear into it further, i'll find the spring pin broken.

I gave up last night and went inside and drank some beer.

 

[86turbodsl]

Ok, i got the PTO drive shaft out and it was just like i expected, the spring pin holding the driveshaft to the hub sheared and let the shaft float. No big deal, common parts. Should be able to grab a pin on the way home from work tonight and get it back together asap.
We MIGHT be able to make some progress then.

 

[rattle_snake]

Good luck. Sounds like how my projects go too.

 

[Strouty]

I guess it could have been worse, you could have gotten it back together with everything “working” then have the shaft issue grenade all you new parts.

 

[86turbodsl]

Well Im a fan of testing and testing often so hopefully that wouldn't happen.

I got the shaft repaired and back in as well as the PTO back in the tractor and I can report SUCCESS!!!!

IT WORKS PERFECT!

pics follow



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[jbmatth]

woo hoo, congrats! Now go bail your yard. haha

JB

 

[86turbodsl]

Lol. I know right?

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[86turbodsl]

Grrrr. I spent half the night winching the z split tractor back together and fiddling with the alignment only to get it back together and find that the clutch doesn't disengage, EVEN THOUGH the clutch lever feels totally normal.

I have no idea what's wrong. I have to split it again.... NOT HAPPY.

 

[jbmatth]

Is it possible to use long all thread to help pulling it together in alignment? I've never split a tractor so I have no clue how tough or easy that would be.

JB

 

[86turbodsl]

i used a come along and leverage on the tires to get it back together, and it did go together hard, so i'm thinking i have a bound up clutch disk or something. The clutch pedal feels normal.

 

[86turbodsl]

Arrrrg! This effin tractor.... Pulled it apart, no damage to splines or anything. Put back together effortlessly. Still only partially disengages. Removing a transmission ruins a clutch???? I didn't even touch the clutch!!!!

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[Strouty]

It has to be something dumb, drink more beer.

 

[1Garageman]

I think you just need some special beer!

https://beerinmybellyblog.wordpress.com/2013/06/09/nephenthe-ales-solo-springer-lawn-mower-ale-candia-road-brewing-company/

 

[Perrorojo]

Looking at this picture, are you sure the foot pedal linkage didn't slip and you're not getting the full throw? Like Strouty said, it's got to be something simple.

 

[86turbodsl]

Now where do i get some of THAT beer?? i'm a sucker for craft brews, and brew my own a fair bit.

Perrorojo,

I do think that's what happened. Yesterday i took the tractor apart for the 3rd time, removed the clutch completely, cleaned everything up and tested the clutch disk on the shafts. The clutch is perfect. I then moved on to the linkage. I think that's the culprit. There's QUITE a LOT of wear on the linkage. I measured almost a 1/4 inch of regression on the main adjustment point, and from what i can tell, about 200 thou of change to the lever ratio on just that part. i think that's enough to cause it to lose travel to where it doesn't fully disengage. They didn't have rod ends back then, just fabricated linkage. i don't think i can get rod ends in the space allocated though, so i think i'm just going to remanufacture some of the linkage parts and patch it together. it lasted 62 years, the repair is likely to outlast me by a good bit.




You can see the wear. The clevis deal grooves aren't supposed to be there.