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Above 1200 Sq/FT 86's 20HP shop

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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86turbodsl

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Im stove top partial grain still. Got a 3 tier design in mind. Basement electric brew with some automation. I do only corny kegs though. I am just getting my tig stainless legs under me so I haven't been able to weld up brew equipment until recently.

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86turbodsl

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Yesterday was a total bust. I made the clutch pilot tool wrong, so i had to correct that today. The clutch install is the first step. I'm in good shape for tonight though. Hope to get it wrapped up by tomorrow so i can mow Friday as it's supposed to be nice and i plan to take a half day off.
 

scooterbum46

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Well Im a fan of testing and testing often so hopefully that wouldn't happen.

I got the shaft repaired and back in as well as the PTO back in the tractor and I can report SUCCESS!!!!

IT WORKS PERFECT!

pics follow

504bf5758d57b3cfd2b2e23101a7c04f.jpg89007255075d415cb8770d7e07242532.jpg44fef64dc2c760934d156cbfc27b59d2.jpg

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Hey Neighbor: Not trying to cause anxiety, but I see you used a single roll spring pin... Cub Cadets use pins in various places, including pinning lift arms to shafts and in the driveline. The OEM pins used are Spirol's , it's not unusual to see complaints where a pin has been replaced with a single roll pin that the pin has broken. I'm hoping that isn't the case with the pin you replaced.. https://www.spirol.com/library/sub_catalogs/cldp-What_Differentiates_Coiled_Pins_us.pdf
Gerry
 

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86turbodsl

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No, that's the right type of roll pin for that spot. I have the factory literature.

I can now report total success on the clutch job. I managed to get the clutch installed with the new tool. Then put the tractor back together and was able to test the clutch with the new release linkage i made. Works perfect. Better than ever in fact. I can now disengage with zero grinding and still have specified free play.

I'll get it wrapped up and out mowing this weekend.
 
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86turbodsl

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After the tractor is 100pct, I should really button up the shop for cold weather and get the burner back operational. I need to run air lines now because the burner preheat tank is now pneumatic fill and I don't want to have a rubber line running back there all the time.

Plus if I get that back running I can more easily test new burner designs.

Once that's squared away I have the kids truck, bike repairs, a lift to install, car repairs, workbench builds, wiring. It goes on and on.

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86turbodsl

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Nothing done since yesterday. Went to see mom before she goes south for the winter. Getting out of work a little early today and will wrap up the tractor and clean the space. I really should pull the kid's truck out of the shop and get a lift up before the weather turns.
Maybe i'll make that a priority...
 
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86turbodsl

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No, for sure, and that's why i've shifted focus a tiny bit into getting things into the shop that need to be in there. Wrapping the tractor up today, and it'll be out. Kid's truck coming out, then more garage tetris so i can get at the back of the shop and move things around for lift installs.

Also need to make some room on the north wall for my new lathe.
I bought a WW2 American Pacemaker lathe. Probably THE best old iron i could get my hands on. Needs a little work, but my inspection showed it in fairly good shape, just nasty looking from being outside too long. The much BIGGER problem is
the dang thing weighs 5500lbs. That's well beyond anything i've ever moved before.
So far i have cranes and semi wreckers that agreed to move it, but looking at all options. I have a trailer to move it with. I probably should have avoided buying it, but the price was too good to turn down.
 

Strouty

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That is a heavy machine, just be careful and remember that once it starts rolling, it is really hard to stop. could you back it under the 4 post lift? If so, that would be the easiest and probably safest way to unload it. Then you can set it on some rollers or buy a pallet jack, most are rated to 5500 pounds, but there a a bunch also rated for 8000 pounds.
 
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86turbodsl

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Yeah, if the 4 post was up yet.. :)

The 2 post would do it. It's not up either.

I think the harder job would be just getting the trailer up in the shop. I'm going to try that before anything else. If it works, i'll maybe put the 2 post up.

I have 2 pallet jacks already. Both 5500. I will probably build machinery skates too.

The lift off the trailer and ON the trailer in Fort Wayne is my biggest concerns. I'm also checking into forklift rental for the day.
 
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Strouty

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I would use this as an excuse, I mean reason, to get one of the lifts up for sure. It is always tough when there is no way to load on the other end.
 

slodat

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I dropped (rolled over) a very nice lathe once. My personal rule now is rigging machinery, especially a lathe, will always involve a forklift. It has worked well since ;)

That's a heavy machine. Will be nice addition to your shop!
 
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86turbodsl

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I'd prefer a forklift too, but i'm a little nervous about it because of the slope up into the shop. I should have put more dirt down before i poured concrete but oh well.

Forklift outfit hasn't called back yet.

I've seen quite a few posts about moving these lathes, there's quite a following over on PM. But the 16x30 i bought is very short, and that makes the lift tougher because not much counterweight for the headstock end, which is GIGANTIC.

One of the guys over on PM says that these lathes are so good, anybody that buys one is SCREWED forever because you get so spoiled. Like 0.5" depth of cut and mirror finish. THAT is rigid. :eek:
 
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Strouty

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I am going to end up with something like that eventually, I want to get me a gap bed lathe, I figure that will open up some possibilities........

I would imagine a heavy wrecker would be able to handle it, they usually have telescoping booms these days.
 
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86turbodsl

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Forklift guy is at 500, semi wrecker can do it for 300 or less depending on time. I bet i can make it tight.

I'm more worried about the trailer i borrowed. I just noticed tonight its all angle iron. I may add some structure before i try this. I think i have some square tube sitting around.
 
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86turbodsl

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So this happened today. d663242ffd0aca9e48f6a9923f1cad87.jpg

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u3b3rg33k

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That look rather large for the workable area. It looks like a monster though. 5 belts, 30hp or so?
 
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86turbodsl

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That look rather large for the workable area. It looks like a monster though. 5 belts, 30hp or so?
No, more like 10hp. I've been told this particular lathe can take like a 1/2in depth of cut at about 90 thou feed and hold 5 tenths with a mirror finish. I don't expect to need any other lathe like ever.

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1Garageman

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That is an awesome gigantic new member to the garage family! We will definitely need some more pics and info on it later on. Nice score!
 
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86turbodsl

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Thanks guys. I'm fairly stoked. I've wanted a lathe for like 20 years. I've used about a half dozen different ones at work over the years, and my fab work using lathes has done nothing but ramped up lately, so i expect to use it a lot. There's a few vids of pacemakers on youtube, they are pretty amazing. Pretty much everybody over on Practical machinist speaks highly of them. ATW put out some amazing stuff. This one's a war baby! Made the year my mom was born. I think that's pretty cool. First order of business is get it soaked down and freed up, then spit polish and get to work.
 

Strouty

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I wish I had one that stout the other day, mine just wasn’t having any of the threading I was trying, I was using a die, but I still figured it would do it, I was very wrong. I need to learn how to cut threads directly on the lathe so next time I won’t have the same issue.

How frozen up is she? Looks pretty good for having been outside.
 
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86turbodsl

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Apron controls mostly work, but the carriage is frozen. Tailstock is frozen. Headstock appears completely fine. Gears shift good, Feed box shifts good. I have read they are pretty robust and i should be able to get it unstuck without too much headaches.
 

matt_i

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Congrats there!

For cast that is surface rusted from outside, I've had really good luck with the Anderson scraper with carbide blade.

https://andersonscraper.com/hand-scrapers/anderson-original-solid-shank-scraper/

Basically I stone off the sharp corners so it doesn't scratch. Then start to push rust off the flat surfaces. It works very well, the carbide edge cuts right thru it without harming the base material. The cut is so wide there's no danger of digging in and causing problems. Much better imo than using abrasives which stick around forever, basically slow murder for an oiled-way machine.

Keep it wet (daily, 2x daily) with Kroil for a few weeks and I bet things start moving again.

There's probably a reason it got pushed outside, but if you can identify and repair that, you're gonna be in high cotton :cool:
 
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86turbodsl

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Ouch that scraper is expensive. I haven't used anything but a razorblade on it yet. Guess I'll avoid anything else until I grab the scraper.

Stone the sharp corners off the scraper or the ways?

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