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Above 1200 Sq/FT 86's 20HP shop

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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86turbodsl

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Today I made a mandrel and winder from some scrap steel and wound two torsion springs. It worked awesome. Took approximately 18in of 0.095in music wire. They turned out very close to the originals. Cleaned up and installed onto the beam latches and they work perfect.

Also dragged the ramps out of the weeds and started cleaning up. They need repair.776d2922d57c66e240b85e75aa79ef21.jpg71b24fa498b51d45fb053aca35cc40ad.jpgdddf1cf2e8089ee13a91355650c72b08.jpg81931bc797d11267be0189b19fac6a86.jpg52f1a7718d7dc0a1f8b06e2d417c392a.jpg

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macgyver37

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Looks great, as for my lathe idea, I meant to turn the spindle by hand to wind the spring, I knew it wasn't running yet.
I think your winder was probably easier to use anyway.
 
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86turbodsl

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They both have a crack in the center, so they sag. I can fix em just need time.

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86turbodsl

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Looks great, as for my lathe idea, I meant to turn the spindle by hand to wind the spring, I knew it wasn't running yet.
I think your winder was probably easier to use anyway.
Ok, that makes more sense. The spindle isn't easy to turn. Think it would be harder

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86turbodsl

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Got the 2nd beam installed tonight, put the last post in place and plumbed. Ready to drill holes. Also extended the cylinder and installed both chains. So all chains are in. I need to pickup some new bolts though. They are obviously old and wrong lengths.

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86turbodsl

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Ok, while i wait for more components to show up, i started cleaning up the ramps. There is a considerable amount of steel flaking off. Looks like it's about half the thickness of the original ramps, which were just diamond plate folded into a ramp with about 4 inch sides, with an inch folded under that. My 12K lift has actual box tube on the sides. I am dubious of the capacity at this point, and thinking of rebuilding them. Perhaps cut the sides off and weld box tube onto it? Anyone have any thoughts on it? I am not going to be loading it to anywhere near 9k, but if the upper car falls, i wreck two vintage cars. As far as i know, the lift was in operation up until i removed it. BUT i don't know what sitting outside for a year did to it either. It was bowed in the center downward when i bought it. There is a crack visible on one side in the middle of the ramp. Probably part of the bow. Material seems like it was originally 11 ga / 1/8" thick, now seems more like 3/32 or so.
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Sidewalls are 4" tall. Corrosion seems to be confined to the bottom half or so of the sides and the bottom lip. Typical michigan lift used in winter. I also thought about welding some thick strapping along the bottom edge so it was at maximum stress point. That would probably be cheaper than box sides or enclosing the whole bottom by a good amount.
 

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OldSoldier

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The part that is corroded is the section that is in tension, right? It looks like you have good painted steel probably two inches from the edge, maybe you can weld in 11 gauge angle at each side of each ramp?
 
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86turbodsl

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Yes, the greatest tension would be in the bottom section that is most corroded. Neutral axis would be at 2" up from the bottom and the top would be in compression. I think angle might be the way to go, full length both sides. I could also do a strip welded on the bottom.
 
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86turbodsl

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Got the hydraulic unit hung and lines run tonight. What a job that was. That thing is VERY heavy. It was all i could do to haul it up a ladder and get one bolt into the mount. They don't build em like that anymore. All metal.
Thinking about wiring. I'm running out of space in my breaker panel. I might need to subpanel. Ugh.
 
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86turbodsl

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Tonight managed to get the rest of the concrete anchors installed. No leaks! Tiny victories.

The cross measurements were within 1/4 inch. i think it's probably close enough.

My Mcmaster order DID NOT come in today, first time i've ever had an order come in 2 days later than order day. We're only 4 hours from Cleveland, and it's always next day for cheap. I'm not happy about that.

Still undecided on ramp direction. Box or strap? That is the question.
 

Strouty

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Got the hydraulic unit hung and lines run tonight. What a job that was. That thing is VERY heavy. It was all i could do to haul it up a ladder and get one bolt into the mount. They don't build em like that anymore. All metal.

You should have used one of the two new forklifts you bought to lift cars....

As for the sides, Angle iron would be the quickest and cheapest way to go for now, you could always rebuild them later. If there is space, I would put the angle iron on the inside, then it is in addition to what is left of the original stuff, especially if you are going to remake them later, it would be far less work.
 
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86turbodsl

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Thanks Strouty, i will consider that. I'm not sure i like the idea of not taking the curvature out of the ramps though. I've thought about turning them upside down and driving the tractor over them to straighten. Not sure that would do anything though.

I hot wired the motor and now have capability of raising. Trying to get all the air out. I used tie down straps to hold the release latches in while i'm bleeding it. i need a fitting to be able to get oil into it faster. It's WAYYY too slow to pour into a little funnel that flows into a 3/8 npt hole.
 
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86turbodsl

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I finagled something to fill quicker and have been doing that. I've found that the chain links don't all move freely and that's causing some binding. I will have to work on a few individual links. But at least it goes all the way up now.
 

Strouty

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Nice, hopefully the links will free up, did you soak them in evaporust for a while? I usually leave really rusty stuff in there for a week or more.
 
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86turbodsl

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i didn't soak the chains in evaporust. they appeared to be in pretty good shape, lots of grease yet. There's just a couple of sticky spots i've been working on pbblaster and working them. I do have a spot that will be a problem if i don't get it more freed up though. Stay tuned.
 
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86turbodsl

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Worked on the 4 post today, leveled the beams up and everything is tightened down and system bled. Now i need to get some steel and fix up the ramps. In the meantime, i dragged the Benwil 2 post out of the weeds and got it setup on barrels. I picked up a Rotary hoist power pak the other day as a hedge that Benwil (i've heard over the years) uses a 3 phase motor with some wierd proprietary connection to the pump that nobody knows what to do with. I figured i would use the power pak if i can't figure that part out. Don't really want a 3 phase lift even though i make 3 phase at home.

Set the lift up on barrels and start cleaning. Get rid of all the leaves, and start pulling the motor off.
I pull the top cover and find a standard c-face motor attached with a lovejoy to a bog standard hydro pump. So much for super special. This lift is made in Japan, so maybe it's metric shafting? who knows. Nothing here scares me at all yet.

The lift is ridiculously overbuilt. BIG forklift channel, and 2 big chains. There's a giant 6 link chain for the main post, and a slightly smaller 6 link chain for the overhead and offside post. Most of the chain is slightly rusty and still moving fine. The smaller chain i already pulled off to put in evaporust and the large chain, i have another cover to yank off yet before it comes off. All pullies move freely and the carriages slide easily. I will probably spiff this one up with paint and get rid of the GM stickers since i'm mostly a Ford shop and don't want GM anything around... shhh. Don't tell my brother...

Pics for attention.
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Got the big chain soaking in evaporust, but the tub is too big for the 3 gallons to cover it all. Dangit.
 

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Strouty

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Cheaper to buy 5 gallons, at least that is what I have found.

The benwil lifts are very rugged, be careful removing the GM stickers, it could jinx you. ;)
 
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86turbodsl

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I wish I could find somewhere around here to buy 5 gals. Nobody but blain's even carries the 3 gal can.

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Strouty

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Amazon, when on sale.

I think HF sells it too, but only gallons.

Amazon has 3.5 gallons for $58 delivered or 5 gallons for $88 delivered.
 
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86turbodsl

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For that price I'm looking for alternatives. I don't get 88 dollars value out of the stuff.

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86turbodsl

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Well since you put it that way, yes the chains are very expensive to replace. Something like 40 dollars a foot. Doesn't mean I don't try to cheap out though. Lol.

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86turbodsl

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I managed to wrestle the chains enough to get them fully submerged in the evaporust. It's already getting pretty black though. My experience is once it's black, it's close to being roached.

Snow coming down all day, and i need to get steel angle for the ramps. I can't get those in place fast enough. Really need the shop cleaned up.
 
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86turbodsl

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I called my steel guy and made arrangements to pick up 2x4 box steel for a good price.
I'm going to be able to cut off the sides and repair the ramps the right way easier and faster than chipping out rust on the sides and halfassing the angle iron in there for days. The plasma is a lot faster than a chipping hammer.

Incidentally, he said sales were WAAAAY down this year. No customers. Not good....
 
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86turbodsl

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I shoved the offside ramp up into the shop tonight, and banged on it a bit. The ramp dumped this pile of rust out of it. Pretty amazing. I think a lot of attention needs to be paid.

So i busted out the plasma, which most of the time didn't work. Something to do with the cold i think, it works fine when warm out. I can hear a click. Anyways, futzing with it got it to fire about 1 in 10 times. So i cut off the bolt heads for the ramp, and all the bottom plates. Once the tubing gets here, i will cut and weld the sides and cut off the sides of the ramps and weld new sides on. I'd have been done an hour ago if the plasma worked 100%.
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86turbodsl

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I freaking love that tool. 48a90b0819b6090ea3fc65113824fc61.jpg

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86turbodsl

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And ****, i got something in my eye again. Of course on a Saturday, no eye doctor until monday. Argh. Working through it, but sensitive to light right now.
 

ClappedOutBport

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And ****, i got something in my eye again. Of course on a Saturday, no eye doctor until monday. Argh. Working through it, but sensitive to light right now.

Do you have a favorite eye doctor? The one that pulled the last sliver out of my eye is willing to come in on weekends if it's bad enough. Took him about 10 mins. I got mine on a Thursday or Friday afternoon and waiting through the weekend made the recovery much longer. In addition, he cautioned me not to wait too long as rust staining can be permanent.
 

Strouty

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I hate getting things in my eyes, been through it more than a couple times and almost every time I was wearing safety glasses. I now where full face shields when doing certain things.
 
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