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Above 1200 Sq/FT 86's 20HP shop

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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bimmer1980

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Here's another red neck idea.... Ram a concrete anchor stud in the hole and tighten it down... You might laugh, but think about it for a minute.... As it gets tightened down, the anchor spreads out and grips onto the threads. Doesn't matter if the threads are good or bad. And worse case, just put a vise grips on the stud and crank it out.... Bing badda boom, flywheel on!!
 
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86turbodsl

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I think it will be worth it's weight in gold. I loaded all the pallet rack on the south side by hand, and not very well i might add. There's lots of space left on it.
 

Strouty

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I love space saving forklifts, they are great for inside the shop.

I am looking at buying a vidmar pallet rack setup that has a built in bridge crane with forks, it is pretty cool looking and versatile. The shelves are the pallet or you can put a pallet on them if you want, it will handle 2000 pounds at a time. They are usually asking way too much for a used one, but I found someone that needs it gone ASAP, so the price is right.
 

bimmer1980

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Good progress! I'll call it a win once you get the engine back in and running. Let's not change masts until it is actually up and running??? Just a thought..... LOL

BTW--it doesn't matter what method you use to hold the flywheel on, just that it stays on.... in the industry I work in, we use the term "Can't see it from my house!!!"
Don't get held up by some BS standard of quality on this project. Ram that tap in there to fix the threads. If that doesn't work, ram the concrete anchor stud in there and tighten it up. At the end of the day, the only thing sticking out is a stud and a nut and it works, who cares.

When you finally get to run this pup, you won't care what method is holding the flywheel on. It will be covered by the shield and the smile on your face.

Git 'r Done!!
 
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86turbodsl

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Its a tapered snout, i have to be somewhat concerned with the force i can apply with the bolt. Lets not get tooo cavalier. :)
 
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86turbodsl

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Good progress! I'll call it a win once you get the engine back in and running. Let's not change masts until it is actually up and running??? Just a thought..... LOL
That was the plan. I'd need room to change a mast anyway. No need to complicate it yet.
 
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86turbodsl

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Ah so official shop capacity is constrained by electron flow. I see.
Nice victory on the forklifts.
Haha! Yes, i think you've nailed it. The thread title was originally chosen because of the ridiculous RPC oversizing. It's now a little less ridiculous, but still more than most peoples'. 50HP was about 3X what i really needed anyway, but i got the 50hp motor for 50 bucks, and the brand new 20hp motor for 37. Timing is everything...
 
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86turbodsl

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@Bimmer, Strouty. I did it. Finally. I rammed a 29/64 drill bit all the way home, that went nice and straight. Used the 3/8 impact and socket to tap the first inch or so of the crank, and installed an extra long helicoil. Seems to have gone ok. Not perfectly straight, but pretty close. Without the impact the crank was just spinning, so that socket set was a good call. If it ever goes bad again, next step is an oversize drill and a brazed lathe insert. but probably not in my lifetime.

thanks for the tips and advice.
 

kent_323is

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Nov 13, 2009
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South Dakota
Looks good from here! See, that was easy once you actually got after it, and no one will know that it's not perfectly straight either. Now let's see some video of this forklift in action!
 
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86turbodsl

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I use JB weld to hold the 3 point arms onto my tractor, does that count? I have to redo it about every 2 years.
 
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86turbodsl

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I took the night off last night, but back at it tonight. Need to figure out ignition stuff and get the flywheel back on. Then tins and fire it.
 
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86turbodsl

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And i ended up working on the hydraulics and gauges. I guess sometimes you just gotta roll with the punches. Tank filled with new hy-tran and gauges yanked.
 
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86turbodsl

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Well so much for that. It got cold. It's snowing now. I did get the boiler fired back up finally, and it's working correctly, except the new burner lockout controller operates a bit different and it's somewhat reluctant to start. There might be too much light pollution around the cad cell. not sure. i'll play with it a bit today while i work in the shop. Ignition content coming.
 
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86turbodsl

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Ok, been running the boiler to get the shop up to temp, looks like my new control unit doesn't like the cad cell resistance. i think i can add a resistor to that to help nudge it.

I also have been working on the namco. The ignition pickup needed to be mounted, so i cut a strip of cardboard and mounted on the crank snout. Then drew a line on the bracket i made to get an arc. I cut a curved slot on that line, and made a mount to hold the pickup that slides on that line. The pickup was mounted to that.

Then i turned my attention to the starter. I noticed a while back that the starter drive gear was pushed towards the flywheel ring gear, and i am pretty sure that's not normal. i took it off and pulled it apart and noticed that there is wear on the bendix which doesn't look repairable. I'm told that this starter is obsolete and no parts available. Uh oh.
 

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Strouty

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Ain’t that grand, I bet if you find an old school starter repair shop they would be able to fix it, that bendix is probably common to something else.
 
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86turbodsl

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Where are those now? Every last one around here has closed. There was one over by work about 10 years ago, i stopped in for some brushes one day, he told me that he was doing starter and alternator repairs for about half the country. He said he wanted out, and that the business was for sale. I could have bought it for under 100G. Everything, building, inventory, everything. He's gone now.
 

bulletpruf

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San Antonio
Where are those now? Every last one around here has closed. There was one over by work about 10 years ago, i stopped in for some brushes one day, he told me that he was doing starter and alternator repairs for about half the country. He said he wanted out, and that the business was for sale. I could have bought it for under 100G. Everything, building, inventory, everything. He's gone now.

Shame that these places are closing. Just too easy these days to source a new offshore alternator than to repair an existing one.

Same with radiator repair shops -- not too many of these around these days, either.
 
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86turbodsl

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I did find a local guy. He didn't know what i needed. I found and ordered a kit to replace the bendix off the internet.
In stock in the USA. I decided i didn't need to gamble with the big blue parking lot in the Pacific.
 
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86turbodsl

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I hope so too. I have been able to crank the engine over prior to removal. So i think the rest of the starter is ok.
Heck, i could probably put it back together and crank it now, just the lack of the detents would allow the bendix to drift around and might cause it to smack the flywheel.
 
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