8ft garage door 9ft ceiling on side wall

[Sparkynutz]

With my current garage project I figured it was a good time to add a garage door on the side wall. I live on a corner and would like to eventually put a driveway from street across my backyard to it.
Until now I've only used 16ft wide garage doors and parking my truck in the standard 9ft wide x7ft tall door on my new house attatched garage is more nerve racking than I'd like so I plan on putting in a 10ft wide door for quicker parking and easier drive through to 16ft door on end wall.
While I'm at it I figured I'd try and future proof and also as a selling point some day put in a taller door. A friend of mine complains all the time that his lifted truck won't fit in his garage. An extra foot taller door would make a world of difference for many reasons.
I'm pretty sure I won't have a problem but figured I'd ask if anyone has done this and get input.
Ceiling is currently unfinished but will eventually get some type of covering and blow in insulation.
Sill bottom to roof truss bottom is 109-1/4"
Sill bottom to soffet is 98-5/8"
10ft wide x 8ft (96" R.O.) tall garage door

I have some 11-3/4 " x 24' LVL beams from my garage raise project I will be cutting and using as a header.

Should I rip beam to get proper height or should I remove bottom 2x4 of double top plate and leave beam as is or just leave both as is and just lose 1.5" rough opening size.

I plan on putting garage door where window is and move window between man door and new garage door.

I have more than enough lumber and jacks to support the side wall when installing the LVL as I currently have the whole garage lifted no problem.
I'll support on each side of where garage door is installed and also up in and accross trusses supporting roof.





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[Sparkynutz]

Also kinds wondering if two jack studs per side is enough support?
My other doors have 2x6 face nailed to that to mount the tracks and springs.
I'm thinking maybe use my 2x10's instead and run top 2x10 past to the next stud which would also transfer some of the weight.

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[Sparkynutz]

Very crude drawing of what it should look like completed

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[shortykorte]

Looking at your measurements, I'd lift the building 4" min. For code and building to last, you'd want a 12" header AND the double top plate. Wood is cheap so suggest 3 jack studs each side. Supports the load better and more stout if you run into it.


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[Sparkynutz]

Looking at your measurements, I'd lift the building 4" min. For code and building to last, you'd want a 12" header AND the double top plate. Wood is cheap so suggest 3 jack studs each side. Supports the load better and more stout if you run into it.


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Where are you getting the 4"?
109.25"- two top plates 3" =106.25"
106.25"- 11.75" LVL= 94.5" or 1.5" lower than 8ft.

I only have room for 2 jack studs on each side and get my 10'wide opening if using two existing studs as king studs.
If I had to use 3 jacks I'd need to accept narrower opening or start messing around trying to install a new king stud on one side.

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[Sparkynutz]

I did more measuring and if I move the garage door towards man door further I can get 3 jack studs in on that side and room for 3 jacks and a new king.
The benefit of that are the sill plate has a joint in it I'd be removing instead of having a 1ft or so piece kinda floating between long section and the door.
The drawback is my window will no longer fit between garage door and man door.

Windows are 48" wide x 36" tall.

Looking at current stud locations I could install a 28" wide x 36" high window without only removing one stud.
It would cost more for a new window but might be the way to go.

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[readhead]

Don't worry about existing stud location. Simply frame the opening you want, where you want it and then remove the studs, sheeting and siding. Two jacks on each side is fine for the header. I would remove one plate and keep the header at full width. This is a pretty easy and common modification.

 

[Sparkynutz]

Don't worry about existing stud location. Simply frame the opening you want, where you want it and then remove the studs, sheeting and siding. Two jacks on each side is fine for the header. I would remove one plate and keep the header at full width. This is a pretty easy and common modification.

Even tho its a load bearing side wall 2 is enough?
I'm having absolutely no luck with Google finding requirement for jack studs on side wall.

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[readhead]

Yes. It's only a ten foot opening. You are supporting four trusses.

 

[lakeroadster]

Studs are cheap... if 3 makes you sleep better, use 3. With the 2x6 face surround that you'll use for the overhead door, 3 studs will work great.

I tend to always default to "more is better" & "hell for stout"..

 

[readhead]

John is right. Use three if that makes you sleep better at night. Main thing is don't try to fit into existing stud layout. Put it where you want it.

 

[lakeroadster]

Sparky, There is some interesting discussion here: Fine Homebuilding: How many jack studs?

A couple fellas make a good point about doubling the king studs.

As for the textbook number of jack studs... go to Table R502.5(1) on page 6...
GIRDER SPANS AND HEADER SPANS FOR EXTERIOR BEARING WALLS
Note d states "NJ" denotes number of Jack Studs.

 

[Sparkynutz]

Sparky, There is some interesting discussion here: Fine Homebuilding: How many jack studs?

A couple fellas make a good point about doubling the king studs.

As for the textbook number of jack studs... go to Table R502.5(1) on page 6...
GIRDER SPANS AND HEADER SPANS FOR EXTERIOR BEARING WALLS
Note d states "NJ" denotes number of Jack Studs.

[emoji106]
More measuring and I'll just move door over. Skip the window idea and use 3 jacks each side. I'll have more room for my workbench on back wall.
I'll try and sell the window and door I have and just get a door like I had in my old house that had a window and screen in it that would open for ventilation.
Less work and money installing a new door than ordering a new smaller window that might look goofy anyways.
Thanks for the input everyone!

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[shortykorte]

Ceiling is currently unfinished but will eventually
Sill bottom to roof truss bottom is 109-1/4"
Sill bottom to soffet is 98-5/8"
10ft wide x 8ft (96" R.O.) tall garage door.

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You said bottom of truss minus double top plate.
109-1/4 - 3" = 106-1/4"
Bottom of top plate minus RO
106-1/4 - 96" = 10-1/4"

Would a 10" header fit, yes.
Is a 10" header the correct size, no.

If you're removing existing studs for the garage door and assume repurposing them for jack studs, wouldn't removing one stud for window be the same?
See Readhead and Lakeroadsters comments.

Again if it's not permitted, do it however you want.


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[RSr]

Is the idea here to be able to store a car in the back of the garage and still fit two in from the main door? Otherwise what are you gaining by potentially building a new driveway to access the new door? Seems like it would just be better to re-frame the front to have two 10' doors on the side that isn't load bearing. You mention this taller second door being a selling point but a garage with doors on two sides is definitely quirky, not what I would call a selling point.

Not trying to be rude, just curious. I'm building a garage right now that has a similar feature. I'm installing the side garage door for my motorcycles and tractor.

 

[Sparkynutz]

Door on side facing my backyard for toys mainly. If car or truck is parked centered inside my main 16ft door close to door then I can also park and get my atv, lawnmower, motorcycle out of side door without having to go around or move the vehicle or open the big door losing more heat in winter.
A couple months ago I built a small shed in my backyard because it was a whopping 3 inches taller than my garage door opening. It would have been so much nicer to build it in garage over a few weeks and been able to drag it out with my atv after complete.
It would also be nice to pre stage my trailer in garage with atvs and camping gear loaded ready to go. When we brought my buddy's side by side it was too tall to fit in garage and got rained on outside night before leaving.
I'm not sure if 8ft door would be enough but it might be. If I get a camper someday I can park it in front of either door and have easy loading access and get toys etc. out the other side.
I have a Firepit, wood pile and other shed in backyard too with no easy access to to with vehicle without driving around side of house, hopping curb and driving through backyard. With a side door hopefully I can drive right through garage and never have to back up to drive out.


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[Sparkynutz]

You said bottom of truss minus double top plate.
109-1/4 - 3" = 106-1/4"
Bottom of top plate minus RO
106-1/4 - 96" = 10-1/4"

Would a 10" header fit, yes.
Is a 10" header the correct size, no.

If you're removing existing studs for the garage door and assume repurposing them for jack studs, wouldn't removing one stud for window be the same?
See Readhead and Lakeroadsters comments.

Again if it's not permitted, do it however you want.


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106-1/4" - 11-3/4" LVL that I already have for garage lifting project = 94.5" Rough opening. A typical 2x12 is only 11-1/4" so I might rip 1/4" off each side of the LVL removing any chewed up edges and only sacrifice an inch of total rough opening.
I know these LVLs are strong and won't bow or sag one bit because the entire garage 14,000lb+ is supported on them in 4 points about 4 inches long on each beam.

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