8'x22' garage door - Pros & Cons?

[xb21]

I'm looking to build an 8'x22' garage door but my architecture said it might be too big and it may sag. He gave me an example that he has an 8'x16' garage door and its sagging.

My 30x40 heated storage garage has an 8x18 insulated garage door and has not sag since it was built (1998) so I'm questioning my architecture here.

The 8x22 garage door will be on my newly constructed garage. It will be an insulated garage door.

Any thoughts or feedback is much appreciated.

 

[kd3pc]

Kudo's to your architect, he is being quite honest with you....most folks want a cheap door, and a box store door that spans greater than 16' is likely going to have problems, now add in a DIY or "contractor" installation with the cheapest materials and the lowest price opener....and you see where your architect is coming from.

He probably will need to spec a laminated beam or steel header to support the opening, which adds cost and labor.

Insulated doors are, by and large, heavier than a regular door and may require a stronger opener and mounting hardware. They just don't make things like they did 20 years ago, so your current door is likely not an option any longer, nor would the wide version of it. IF it is, it will cost dearly compared to the 20 year ago price.

I would listen to him. Or be prepared to spend some extra cash on the "good stuff".

 

[8man]

Agreed. That is quite a span for a garage door. Steel beam for the header over the opening to support the roof, sitting on steel posts. The door is another issue. Steel insulated is a good choice, but 22' is quite a span unless it is built really well. You could have trouble with it.

So X2 on the listen to the architect or be prepared for the additional cost.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

I assume you're referring to the door itself in the 'open' position? I would check with the door manufacturers and voice your architects' concerns.

 

[HunterDan]

I have a cloplay 14x18' wide insulated door, been in since December 2015, knock on wood no sag issues, but I guess time Will tell!

I love the wide door, it's great being able to back in or back A trailer in and have plenty of r room

 

[xb21]

Thanks for all the feedback so far.

I'm looking to park two full size vehicle, SUV and Truck.

My 2nd option are two 8x10 doors so there is a 2' support wall/beam in the center.

 

[imnutz]

Two cost more, but are usually better than one - if one goes down, you can still use the other, less stress on the components due to less weight, and if the garage is heated, you will notice the difference opening one smaller one when it is -5 outside

 

[GMCGarage]

I'm looking to build an 8'x22' garage door but my architecture said it might be too big and it may sag. He gave me an example that he has an 8'x16' garage door and its sagging.

My 30x40 heated storage garage has an 8x18 insulated garage door and has not sag since it was built (1998) so I'm questioning my architecture here.

The 8x22 garage door will be on my newly constructed garage. It will be an insulated garage door.

Any thoughts or feedback is much appreciated.

What is sagging? The door or the header? If header, its a design issue. If door, its a manufacturer design issue. Wide doors are done all the time, so I guess its a design issue with the header.

 

[xb21]

What is sagging? The door or the header? If header, its a design issue. If door, its a manufacturer design issue. Wide doors are done all the time, so I guess its a design issue with the header.

I think my architecture is saying his garage door itself is sagging and not the beam or frames. I've seen my brother in law's garage door sagging too and by the looks of it, they look very cheap and flimsy.

I don't plan on going cheap with an insulated 8x22 garage door. My only concern is the ceiling beams and frames sag in due to large, heavy insulated door. I guess if its built right, I shouldn't have any problems.

Considering my 30x40 garage is insulated and heated with an upstairs loft used as an exercise gym with 5 heavy equipment, no sagging yet.

So far I got, you can build it, just build it correctly with heavy duty support beam/frames.

Then there's the don't because it will sag (maybe because of cheap doors and lack of support beams)

 

[yeldogt]

I have an oversized Clopay door -- I think its 20' .. I had to special order it.

Heavy duty tracks and BB wheels -- all the weight is out at the ends near the walls.

 

[GMCGarage]

I think my architecture is saying his garage door itself is sagging and not the beam or frames. I've seen my brother in law's garage door sagging too and by the looks of it, they look very cheap and flimsy.

I don't plan on going cheap with an insulated 8x22 garage door. My only concern is the ceiling beams and frames sag in due to large, heavy insulated door. I guess if its built right, I shouldn't have any problems.

Considering my 30x40 garage is insulated and heated with an upstairs loft used as an exercise gym with 5 heavy equipment, no sagging yet.

So far I got, you can build it, just build it correctly with heavy duty support beam/frames.

Then there's the don't because it will sag (maybe because of cheap doors and lack of support beams)

I would contact the manufacture direct, and not rely on your architecture. Ask them if it sags, and how much.

 

[mrobins297aaa]

I have a 18'w x 8'h door and have had zero problems with it.

 

[readhead]

Width by height please. A quote for a 8x22 would be pretty expensive.

 

[xb21]

I have a 18'w x 8'h door and have had zero problems with it.

Agreed. My 8x18 door has zero issues too. I'm no architecture but using basic knowledge and common sense here. If I build the garage door where the roof slants down, all that weight may be an issue, however if I build the garage door off the side of where the roofs slants, there is not much weight there because the weight is being distributed off the sides. Am I right?

 

[xb21]

Width by height please. A quote for a 8x22 would be pretty expensive.

Garage is 30x30, not concern on door pricing just as long as it will hold without future problem.

 

[kbs2244]

I would say the fact you are worried about it says a lot.
You don't seem worried about the 2 door idea.

Why build something you have to worry about?

 

[tjdux]

Probably not much help but my dad has a steel bi-fold door on his farm machine shop. Its approx 16ft high by 20 or 22 ft wide. No sag but the frame is made of 2 inch heavy wall steel tubing and the opener is a 3 or 4 horse gear reduction motor that runs 1/4 braided steel cable to lift it.

Probably not applicable to a short residential door but at least do yourself a favor and look at some youtube videos of them. There are guys that use them to to lift whole covered porches on buildings.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[zmotorsports]

Twenty-two feet is a big span plus kind of an odd size so I would suspect you will pay more. I would suggest an 18' wide, especially over a 16' wide or possibly even a 20' wide door. I had a 16' wide garage door on my last home and it was a bit tight getting two vehicles in side by side. On my shop I had a 20' wide door and it was great getting in and out of. On my current home attached garage I have an 18' wide door and it is great to pull two vehicles in side by side straight in.

Mike.

 

[abachman]

I have an 8 x 18 foot door and easily get two cars in and have plenty of room. I previously had a full size van with a bumped up top, hence the 8 ft requirement.

 

[ASHMAN_AZ]

The type of garage opener I think plays into this. My 2car garage door is 18ft wide 12 years old and used a traditional chain drive opener that pushes the center of the door tight to the seal when closed. Now that I have a jackshaft liftmaster 3800 opener on it, when fully closed the center is not tightly sealed. I need to adjust my tracks for a tighter seal but this does show some evidence of it sagging over the years. Go big a 10ft wide door is frustrating small.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

My 2nd option are two 8x10 doors so there is a 2' support wall/beam in the center.

This is what I would do. It will be a little more expensive, but I would NEVER go with a door that wide.

You're smart to want to have a reasonable amount of room between the vehicles versus parking them door handle to door handle.

 

[MikeF]

We did a few 22' wide doors and some 30 footer. Giant struts were required, 2 per section. The 22 foot door was 3 inches thick, Raynor brand I believe. The 30 footers were section replacement reusing the struts. They Can Be Made But Not cheap, Don't Buy The Cheap ones.

 

[rburke65]

Thinking there is a lot of truth in what the architect is telling you. Any idea what that 22' door weighs?....I mean besides a lot? Commerical ? I think you into the Industrial catagory myself.

 

[Plastikosmd]

I have twin 10'h x20'w
Love them. Very heavy doors and track

 

[gnpenning]

Have done wider and taller of many different sizes. Combines like wide doors. A quality door from a manufacture that does lots of large doors is key. Many think they are buying a quality door but until they see a great door they just don't know.

Check and see is you have a Midland dealer in your area. They will spec it out for the load needed.

For that width I would go with a double end style and 9" rollers. Also struts on every panel. Windows add weight and should be double strutted.

If you are worried about it and have the roof to do it go with a follow the roof line track. This will change the weight placement from horizontal to more vertical. Even a highlift will help. I doubt you have space for a full vertical lift but if you do there you go.

For full size vehicles you will love the space when pulling in and out. Opening vehicle doors and room to walk around is nice. You can even pull ATVs in while vehicle are parked. In my area a 16' is a waste unless you have one vehicle. I try and talk as many customers into going as wide as they can. The cost really isn't that much more. I have one customer that we started with a 16'. They built a shop and went 18'. They sold that place and we put a 20 x 10 in. They have trucks and love it.

Not leaving your door open all day will help.

Cons : not doing it and regretting it every time you pull in and out.

 

[CNGsaves]

OP . . . . does your design allow for a TALLER door ???

If so, I'd go with the TWO doors, but make one Taller. Nothing more frustrating that having a nice big garage built, and you can NOT get your camper in the garage because of air conditioner on the roof. I'd never settle for just a 8 ft tall garage door in a huge shop.

Finally . . . .
. . . . . . . . . . . . Architecture . . . . . relates to design
. . . . Architect . . . . the PERSON doing the designing !!

 

[Hanger]

I built a 30wx40dx12h garage last year and installed a 11'hx26'w overhead door on the gable end. The door has bridges with heavy duty hinges,tracks, etc. Garaga door. The header was two 1 3/4" x16" lvl beams with 2" styrofoam in between. Happy with everything so far.

 

[YukonXL04]

I plan on a 20x10 door on mine. Commercial and insulated. My garage door guy assures me all will be fine. We have known each other for years so I think he would tell me if it would be a problem.

I agree, 1 big door is awesome. Contemplated 2 10x10 doors, but would have made it hard to get a trailer on 1 side with the pillar in between because of driveway access. 1 big single door let's me do it fine

 

[John in OH]

Two cost more, but are usually better than one - if one goes down, you can still use the other, less stress on the components due to less weight, and if the garage is heated, you will notice the difference opening one smaller one when it is -5 outside

Imnutz makes several good points!

I have two, 10' x 10' doors on my shop and really like the dual door arrangement. Several thoughts to consider:

-- Since you live in Wisconsin you'll see really cold and blustery weather so in the winter every time you open that 22' door you'll lose every degree of heat in the garage.
-- During spring and fall when weather is mild, I enjoy being able to open only one of my 10' doors fully or partially to let in just a little fresh air.
-- My daughter's neighborhood experienced a localized wind storm a few years ago and the worst damage suffered in the area were a few uprooted trees, a few missing shingles, and several "blown in" garage doors (typical 7'x16' size). The bigger the door, the heavier, stronger, stiffer it must be to withstand wind loads.
-- If the power goes out, will your wife or kids be able to lift the 22' door?

I would go with the architect's recommendation .... that's why you are paying him!

 

[cybrdyke]

I would never again want to deal with divider between two doors, so that's why I have one wide door. That damn column in the middle is nothing but a inconvenient obstacle. It's a concern pulling in and backing out. Always seems to be in the way, no matter what I'm trying to do.
CD