9' Ceiling - 8' Sheathing: Any Ideas on That?

[lakeroadster]

Now that the barn is about ready to move into the 1st project is to finish the attached garage. Currently it is just stud wall and trusses, no insulation or wall sheathing.

The attached garage will just be for the daily drivers and won't be for projects. We did this at our last home. Really nice to have a super clean non cluttered garage.

I hate drywall in a garage.. so that's not an option.

There is no concrete stub wall, the wood stud walls go right down to the slab.

I'm thinking of using 12" Wide HardiePlank Fiber Cement Cedarmill Lap Siding on the wall around the perimeter, at the slab. That way any moisture (which will be minimal) won't affect the non-porous, non-rottable surface.

Then using SmartSide 48 in. x 96 in. Composite Lap Siding from the HardiPlank siding on up to the ceiling.

We live in the mountains.. so the wood look fits in well too.

Anybody else done something similar?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

 

[DougWil]

Probably not going to get too wet in a garage, but fiber cement board soaks up water on any unpainted edge, swells and falls apart since the fiber is wood fiber, and the cement is portland cement and doesn't swell.

 

[lakeroadster]

Thanks DougWil.... Good to know.

 

[LXCam]

I'm not familiar with the sheeting product you're looking at so this suggestion probably may not help. Many times you can get 4x10 sheets instead of 8s. Ya there is the waste factor to take into account but it looks much cleaner then a horizontal joint does. As for moisture issues, just keep it 1/4"-1/2" off the floor.

 

[NUTTSGT]

You'll have to check with your local supplies, big box or small lumberyards but there are some sheet products can (or used to be) special ordered in 9' or 10' lengths.


EDIT: typing and researching while LX was posting.

 

[Jess]

I added an inside wall in my storage building that I wash out a couple of times a year. I cut strips of cement tile backer board and used tile and thinset to make a nice watertight baseboard all along the wall. My floor is dead flat, so some water sits if I don't squeegee it out the door. Tile in grey like the floor and a dark grout or even thinset will stand up to moisture. Tile can be gotten cheap as most big box stores bring in lots and the left overs go to the clearance aisle.

 

[fury9]

Hardie will rot, I've already replaced some. If you,re that concerned about water go with a 1X PVC trim around the bottom

 

[Brian80]

I was considering Drywall on my 10' walls, However I didn't feel like taking 3 days to finish.
I installed 4'x10' OSB which was purchased at a local lumber yard. The joints were sealed with Construction Adhesive and painted.
Check out my garage thread to get a better idea.

 

[aircommuter]

This an idea but may not be what are looking for exactly. They are foamfilled panels, so insulation is there , they are pre-finished steel easy clean , the fasteners are concealed, can be ordered in any length.

 

[pmiranda]

Hardie will rot, I've already replaced some. If you,re that concerned about water go with a 1X PVC trim around the bottom

Thanks, I've just added that to my wishlist...

 

[crepr12]

This an idea but may not be what are looking for exactly. They are foamfilled panels, so insulation is there , they are pre-finished steel easy clean , the fasteners are concealed, can be ordered in any length.

whats the name of this product?...Thanks

 

[rburke65]

I used 4'x10' sheets of SmartSiding in my shop but it is..?..3' + off the floor area. It is available.

 

[rburke65]

Couldn't you use treated lumber as a base board?

 

[aircommuter]

That product is called insulated metal panel. They go together with a t&g joint, airtight, they are used on steel building because they can span where you do not have studs. One maker is kingspan, there may be others in your area.

 

[lakeroadster]

Thanks for the thoughts guys.

Couldn't you use treated lumber as a base board?

Yep, sure could. I was hoping to find something 12" wide and about the same thickness as the 3/8" 4'x8' panels. If I use dimensional pressure treated lumber as a base board, then any cabinets, workbenches etc. will either need to be notched, or they will set away from the wall.

 

[pmiranda]

You could rip 24x48 sheets of this in half:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23412

 

[Slednut]

You could rip 24x48 sheets of this in half:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23412

Or this

http://www.njsupply.com/1X8-12-Wht-Trim-Board_p_67385.html

 

[ewang]

I just used painted pine trim 1/8"off the floor.

 

[Falcon67]

Hardie will rot, I've already replaced some. If you,re that concerned about water go with a 1X PVC trim around the bottom

Eh? My Hardi is maybe 2~3" off the earth, been in place for 5 years now - looks just like when we installed it. No rot or other damage. I've had scrap pieces laying on the ground that long, no swelling or other damage. Step on it, it snaps like normal Hardi.

I used LP SmartSide on the old shop - it's still in perfect condition (know the new owners) after 18 years. And some of that is inches above ground contact.

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

I hate drywall in a garage.. so that's not an option.

Well, before you start "hating" on drywall- for whatever reason- maybe you should check the building code. Last time I looked, an attached garage HAS TO HAVE drywall- especially the wall/ceiling that has conditioned living space on the other side of it.

Insurance companies also appreciate the diligence of those that follow the rules- they pay when "things go south"- savvy?

 

[lakeroadster]

Well, before you start "hating" on drywall- for whatever reason- maybe you should check the building code. Last time I looked, an attached garage HAS TO HAVE drywall- especially the wall/ceiling that has conditioned living space on the other side of it.

Insurance companies also appreciate the diligence of those that follow the rules- they pay when "things go south"- savvy?

Savvy? No worries.

The garage has the code required drywall installed, but just on the adjoining wall with the home.. from the slab all the way to the peak of the roof.

 

[nh_yota]

I would use composite (Azek et al.) or solid PVC trim anywhere trim has the possibility of getting wet. I've used both the composite type (generic version of Azek) and the solid PVC type and would never go back to wood for exterior trim. It's still a good idea to paint it in order to resist mildew, but I have some trim on my porch that I replaced six years ago and it still looks great even though I haven't gotten around to painting it yet.

 

[lakeroadster]

So here is what we ended up doing inside of our attached garage.

Installed:

• horizontal 2x4's between the vertical wall studs, 1 ft off the floor,
• 8 ft sheets of SmartSide at top of wall,
• 10-7/8" tall SmartSide pieces along bottom of wall, ensuring they were 1" above concrete,
• concrete gray colored composite decking boards (Rhino) along the bottom of the wall.

We'll use silicone caulk at the concrete to Rhino board junction.

 

[Norcal]

9' siding is a standard item, use it with a gap off the floor & use a decay resistant material as a base, will look quite decent + won't have to fiddle fart around with a bunch of different material, lap siding will collect dust also.

 

[lakeroadster]

9' siding is a standard item, use it with a gap off the floor & use a decay resistant material as a base, will look quite decent + won't have to fiddle fart around with a bunch of different material, lap siding will collect dust also.

I priced the 9 foot panels. Special order, not standard at all here in the Rockies. They were 1.5 times the price of the 8 foot.

As for collecting dust in a garage...

No worries... I mean, after all, it's a garage. Work benches, cabinets, garage door openers, floors, lights... they all collect dust.