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9' walls enough?

90limited

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KY
I specified the garage build with 9' walls. Then I just added 2 rows of split block at the bottom assuming that the 9' walls would go on top of the block. Contractor is saying the the wall will be 9' withe the block...

Am I going to kick myself in the **** for only have 9'? I am putting a four post lift, but do not think I will use it as car storage.....
 
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Ray916MN

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Orono, MN
Yes, you will probably kick yourself for not having something more like a 12' ceiling. Assume 1' of clearance for the garage door, 1' of clearance for the thickness of the lift runways and the travel to get the lift on to the lift locks, a 5' tall vehicle and you are left with 5' of under the lift work/storage height. Lift a full size truck (nominally 6.75' tall) and you're going to have 3.25' of under lift work height.
 

dbonne

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Southern Idaho
Been there done that. Last shop finished out at 9'6". Never Again. I had to build a new shop with 16' ceilings to recover...
 

porschedude996TT

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This may be an option for you...

I built my shop with 10' walls and a vaulted ceiling which is 14' 6". I have a double scissor lift that lifts 6'. I have plenty of clearance above the vehicles I own.
 

tshetter

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Central, FL
I specified the garage build with 9' walls. Then I just added 2 rows of split block at the bottom assuming that the 9' walls would go on top of the block. Contractor is saying the the wall will be 9' withe the block...

Am I going to kick myself in the **** for only have 9'? I am putting a four post lift, but do not think I will use it as car storage.....

So, implement a change order and have the wood framing sit on top of the block at the height you want.

Either way, you are going to have studs cut down. Ask him if there is a way to frame on top of the block and not make cuts on the studs, so they are a full 10ft on your block. They then won't have to cut when framing.

Makes it a little easier/faster for the crew, not a whole lot but some, and offset the change from 8ft to 10ft studs.

Talk to him about it and explain what you are building for, its usage and purpose.

9ft just isnt going to work for you and you dont want it. Make the change.
 
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CNGsaves

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KS and OK
CHANGE ORDER: Add MORE rows of blocks at bottom to raise up entire wall.

. . . . or . . . .

Like above post, just change walls to 10 ft 2x6 on top of block stem wall.

Good luck. If building has not been built yet, you're the only one (plus BUDGET ;) . . ) preventing from making changes to whatever you want.
 

StingRay

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I have a 10 ft cieling height. It is not enough. 12 ft is a good height that will allow most of the things a hobbiest will ever do in their garage.
 

jimgerken

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Nov 27, 2013
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I agree with 12 foot ceilings in a workshop. Once the dor tracks are in and the lighting is hung, and maybe a dust collection system or a ceiling fan, you end up with 11 or maybe even only 10 in places. My old shop was 9 foot ceiling, the new one is 12. Once everything was hanging on the ceiling of the old shop, it was too low to stand a sheet of plywood on end (to flip it or whatever), for example. so far in the 12 foot shop, everything clears and there is room to spare. Also, lighting changes because it doesnt feel so harsh when mounted three feet higher away from my head.
Get it changed now to as high as you can afford to do, or 12 foot. Add the extra blocks AND use the ten foot stud length.
 

Vinci

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I have an 8'6" ceiling and it's pretty terrible, even without a lift. I have to be super careful when moving 8' boards and my 8' ladder, and 8' sheet material is a real PITA. At 9', you'll be in for the same problems.

You are going to want more height.
 

Big Bad Dad

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How was the job bidded? Was it specified 9 foot walls on top of the block? Was there a set of plans or specs written? Sounds like a miscommunication somewhere.
 

rburke65

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Canfield, Ohio
I did 12' - 2x6" studs atop the 14" high foundation and that gave me a finished 13'-4" ceiling height. Love it. You know in your heart 9' will NOT be enough. And why would you buy wall lumber and cut them down? You have never read or heard of anyone saying I wish I didn't have so much head room......you are only getting one chance to do this. I can pick up and move a sheet of plywood and not worry or even think about hitting a lamp. Lots of benefits with a tall side wall....stuff you haven't even thought about.
 
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brownbagg

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i got ten foot walls and the lift won't fit inside, the center is 12 but then you got light etc. my toyota needs 12.6 to walk under, and I'm 5'5
 

christopizza

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NC
I have 9 and a half ft ceilings in my attached garage and have a 4 post lift

I use my 4 post lift primarily as a parking stacker and it works fine with one caveat - little british cars. I can park my 63 TR4 on top (with the top down) and there is still room for my 88 Merkur or my wifes Mitsubshi outlander. Anything else up top would not work.

If you see yourself with a lift to work on cars, go for the higher ceiling.
 

nehog

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Jaffrey, NH
I'll say the same thing: my 12 ft walls are the minimum I could be happy with now that I'm using the building. Get 10' on top of your two rows of blocks.

As for your dispute with the contractor--this shows the value of clear plans and specifications.
 
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tyjoja

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albany ore
get your trusses scissored, I have 8 foot side walls and scissored trusses and about 11ft plus in the center
 

bigduke6

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Jan 12, 2014
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I'm in the same boat. I have a huge 3 car garage with 9'-3" ceiling. I'm going to be redoing trusses, braces, drywall, etc. to put in a two post lift. :evil:

My advice is do it now. Whatever it costs now will be well worth it down the road!!
 

Shadowdog500

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Get that ceiling up!!!

I wound up with 16' clearance and love it. Doubt if I would want less that 12' or 14'. Make sure you put a decent sized door on your garage. 10' high would be a minimum. I have a 14' by 14' on mine.

You only get to build your garage once, go as big as you can on everything now. It will never be big enough, no matter how big you make it!

Chris
 

finn

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The UP, God's country
I went with 3 rows of split face block and a 2X6X8' studs for 10 1/2' ceilings in part of my shop and 2X4X10' studs with 12 1/2' ceilings for the work area where I'll put my lift.

The resulting stepped roof visually looks good on my site, in my opinion.
 

DangerousDan55

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Hockley, TeXas
STOP THE JOB!!!!!!!! REPEAT, STOP THE JOB!!!!!!!
DEMAND THAT "YOUR" BUILDING WILL BE WHAT YOU WANT.
It may cost more money. But not that much.
A fuss now, but you'll be happy!
 

Fizbin

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I have an 8'6" ceiling and it's pretty terrible, even without a lift. I have to be super careful when moving 8' boards and my 8' ladder, and 8' sheet material is a real PITA. At 9', you'll be in for the same problems.

You are going to want more height.

Yup. Mine are also 8'6" and I absolutely hate it, but I'm stuck with it. Good thing I never planned on adding a lift... still ***** for trying to move anything large in there, though. :sad:
 

ADSR

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STOP THE JOB!!!!!!!! REPEAT, STOP THE JOB!!!!!!!
DEMAND THAT "YOUR" BUILDING WILL BE WHAT YOU WANT.
It may cost more money. But not that much.
A fuss now, but you'll be happy!


I agree with this. I don't think a contractor would have a problem with it either. I know i wouldn't. I've had customers drop bombs style changes in the middle of a project and it's not a big deal to me. I tell them... it's only money.

Another vote for 12 footer.
 

MScott

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Eastern Ontario
I agree. Raise it now. Don't count on being able to raise it later if you ever need it higher. That's how I got my lift. The PO bought it, expecting that he could just raise his 9 foot ceiling so he could install it. The city wouldn't allow him to raise it so he was forced to sell it. I got a good deal but he lost out. I'm building my new garage around the lift...12 foot ceilings.
 

holdover

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Feb 15, 2011
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VA
my walls are 10' 6" (10' 2X6 with double top and bottom plates) 40' wide with sissor truss 3/12 inside, 5/12 outside pitch. I have two 4 post lifts one in right rear next to wall and one in center. The one next to the wall has a '65 Mustang FB on top and a '67below. Plenty of room to work below I am 5'10", the middle lift has 15' + in center

http://s73.photobucket.com/user/hol...g.html?&_suid=1389936624765049410146612572425
 

mrobins297aaa

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south east michigan
12' would be best, i have 14' at this house.
below is a truss i used at my last house because i was stuck with 10' walls to match the house.
the truss is 30' long and it sat on top of 10' walls and had a 13'-3" bottom in the middle.
the top chord was a 6/12 pitch

P1010018_zps685134d9.jpg
 
OP
9

90limited

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KY
Thanks for all the feedback. I called for 9' walls, so there is no beef with the contractor. I just assumed that when the block was added the same 9' wall would go on top. I have been in contact with him and he is willing to put the 9' wall on top of the block for no additional cost which will net about 125" (10' 5") floor to ceiling. The lift will be in back of the garage (24x36), so I do not have to worry about clearing the garage door.

I could add another row of block that would get me to 11' 1"... but here is the deal. The garage will sit on the lower tier of my fall away lot. I have a nature preserve behind the house and am trying my hardest not to block the view. So at 10.5', I will assume that the lights, flush mount ceiling fans etc will eat one foot so I will still have 9.5'???
 

bczygan

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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
Is that going to work???

He's going to have to take 10' materials and cut them down to get a 9' wall. Why not just let him use 10'? 3 courses of block and you have 12'.

Can the roof be done differently to keep the view?

Can the building be set lower into the grade?
 
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OP
9

90limited

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KY
contractor says he can order 9' lumber, both osb and 2x4, so there is no waste. I could drop the roof to 4/12 pitch, but I had to fight hand tooth and nail with the HOA to get 5/12 approved. I am pretty sure that 4/12 would not fly... I will ask him about vaulting the trusses, so that I will have 12' or higher in center of garage.
 

bczygan

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contractor says he can order 9' lumber, both osb and 2x4, so there is no waste. I could drop the roof to 4/12 pitch, but I had to fight hand tooth and nail with the HOA to get 5/12 approved. I am pretty sure that 4/12 would not fly... I will ask him about vaulting the trusses, so that I will have 12' or higher in center of garage.


Perfect!
 
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