9ft framing wall height

[free07110]

I’m going to start framing my barndo and doing 9ft wall height. Trying to figure out what is considered standard height. 2x4 is 104 5/8 plus bottom plate and double plate (4.5”). Total height is 109.25in. Is this the standard height for 9ft walls for framing? Assuming they actually little under 9ft, not over 9ft.

 

[WisJim]

I think that would give you a wall suitable for 9ft drywall after allowing for ceiling drywall and leaving a slight gap between the drywall and the floor--it's allowing you 1.25" for the ceiling and finish floor.

 

[Old tool guy]

9 ft sheetrock is 9 ft. Figure 5/8” rock on the ceiling and 1/4” gap at the floor. Maybe 1/2”. So that’s 108 less 7/8” or 1-1/8” = 107-1/8” or 106-7/8” … no more.

 

[The Cobbler]

don't forget the calculation includes 1/2" or 5/8' drywall on the ceiling as well , which is installed first

 

[Rusted Nut]

Yes, 104 5/8” is standard height for 9’ ceilings.

 

[free07110]

Yes, 104 5/8” is standard height for 9’ ceilings.

Total height? Or 104 5/8” plus bottorm/top plates?

 

[free07110]

Bump for the evening crowd.

 

[Boogerman]

Why don't you make it easy on yourself, and make the studs the length to let you use 5 foot plus 4 foot wide drywall, so you only have one seam. If you use single bottom plate, and double top plate, plus 5/8" sheetrock on the ceiling, the calculations come out: (9 x 12") + 5/8" -(3 x 1.5") + 1/4" for fit insurance = 104 3/8". If you can get a standard cut 104 5/8", you have 1/2" for fit insurance instead of 1/4", which will work just as well.

 

[Rusted Nut]

Total height? Or 104 5/8” plus bottorm/top plates?

Stud height, plus one bottom plate, two top plates. 5/8” GWB on lid, two 54” GWB boards on the wall.

 

[HoosierMark]

My basement ceiling is 9 ft plus. We used 54 inch wide drywall. 1 inch gap at floor and 3 inch gap at top which we used a 1x6 trim board to cover. Nailed 1/2 plywood filler strip next to ceiling to keep 1x6 level. minimal seam work with 12 foot long sheets.

 

[Joemctag]

Commercial home builders use 54” ( 4’-6” ) wide drywall run horizontally where there are “9-foot” ceilings. Horizontal joints are better for a few reasons. And if you measure your rooms, you can order various lengths so you might not have to have many, or any, “****” joints.

 

[mike93lx]

Why don't you make it easy on yourself, and make the studs the length to let you use 5 foot plus 4 foot wide drywall, so you only have one seam. If you use single bottom plate, and double top plate, plus 5/8" sheetrock on the ceiling, the calculations come out: (9 x 12") + 5/8" -(3 x 1.5") + 1/4" for fit insurance = 104 3/8". If you can get a standard cut 104 5/8", you have 1/2" for fit insurance instead of 1/4", which will work just as well.

I dont think I have ever seen 60" drywall. Only 48" and 54"

 

[The Cobbler]

make it easy on yourself, and make the studs the length to let you use 5 foot plus 4 foot wide drywall,

I as well have never seen 5' drywall... but I do see 4'6" readily available

 

[Boogerman]

I dont think I have ever seen 60" drywall. Only 48" and 54"

I as well have never seen 5' drywall... but I do see 4'6" readily available

Guess it depends on where you build. The last house I built, they used all 4 ft, just did two seams for 9 ft. Drywall sub supplied the boards. House before that, I had to stock the sheetrock for the piercers to put up, and I could get 5 and 4, so used that for the 9 ft and 5x5 for the 10 ft. House before that, was doing a lot of commercial work at the same time, diverted one of my big subs over to my house and they used 5 ft for the 10 ft's. He was doing a lot of big work in Las Vegas and vicinity; the rock was stocked directly off a truck from the factory, you had to have a large open hole in the side of the building to let them use a truck crane to put the rock in in full bunks, they had guys pull it right off the bunks and stock it to the rooms, and then pulled the excess back out and back on the truck.

Come to think of it, the rock was all 5/8", not 1/2, on the previous jobs. That might have changed the width availability. Latest house was conventional construction, used 1/2 on the walls and 5/8" on the ceilings.

It's also possible that I remember wrong, and we used 54" sheets.

Point of my post was; figure out what rock width you're going to use, and then frame to that to avoid an extra seam or extra cutting of the boards.

 

[Jeff C]

104-5/8” PET studs (or 105” in some markets)

3ea - 2x plates

5/8” 4x12’ Ceiling Sheetrock

1/2” 54”x12’ Wall

Let’s get started!

 

[firebirdparts]

I’m going to start framing my barndo and doing 9ft wall height. Trying to figure out what is considered standard height. 2x4 is 104 5/8 plus bottom plate and double plate (4.5”). Total height is 109.25in. Is this the standard height for 9ft walls for framing? Assuming they actually little under 9ft, not over 9ft.

Yes, standard height for walls is "too tall" for dimensional sheet goods. It's tradition. Having a half inch on top for the ceiling is reasonably useful. The additional 3/4" is pretty stupid and you don't have to do it if you don't want to. Cutting every stud is tedious, so mostly everybody complies.

Sheetrock is also pretty stupid - they only pinch it on two sides, so it's not a dimensionally useful product at all. Made of dirt and paper. It's trash. you can knock a hole in with a feather. Everybody uses it for everything. They have a good lobby, I guess. Professionals always run it horizontally so that the ugly joints are as visible as possible and to make sure your baseboards won't fit.

 

[Jeff C]

Yes, standard height for walls is "too tall" for dimensional sheet goods. It's tradition. Having a half inch on top for the ceiling is reasonably useful. The additional 3/4" is pretty stupid and you don't have to do it if you don't want to. Cutting every stud is tedious, so mostly everybody complies.

Sheetrock is also pretty stupid - they only pinch it on two sides, so it's not a dimensionally useful product at all. Made of dirt and paper. It's trash. you can knock a hole in with a feather. Everybody uses it for everything. They have a good lobby, I guess. Professionals always run it horizontally so that the ugly joints are as visible as possible and to make sure your baseboards won't fit.

I love it. The problem is “that’s how we always do it.” I learned very quickly while building our house that if you want anything other than “how it’s always done” you better be prepared to stand around all day and watch. It doesn’t matter how many times you tell them. As soon as you leave they revert back to the “normal” way of doing things.

 

[CraigStu]

Sheetrock is also pretty stupid - they only pinch it on two sides, so it's not a dimensionally useful product at all. Made of dirt and paper. It's trash. you can knock a hole in with a feather. Everybody uses it for everything. They have a good lobby, I guess. Professionals always run it horizontally so that the ugly joints are as visible as possible and to make sure your baseboards won't fit.

Being a super amateur at drywall, I always think like you. Why the he11 would I want the full thickness **** joints vertical right in the middle of the wall? I can make a half decent mud job where two pinched edges join but the unpinched **** joint kills me. I did my own drywall in my last garage addition which was 16ft wide so the ceiling was a bunch of 8fters which gave me a 22ft **** joint right down the middle. After 2 days of mudding and sanding, and having to strip to my undies so I could go in the house to shower, I bought a sheet of 1/4" plywood. Ripped off some 6" wide strips and covered my 2 day effed up joint right over. Hey it's a garage, it looked fine after paint. Then I got to the 8ft walls sitting on the block stemwall. Well hell they were 8ft1.5". Set the drywall on the block, mudded the pinched joints and they came out pretty good for me. But what about that 1.5" gap at the top? How about 1/4" plywood ripped into 3 inch strips and call it 'crown molding'? My wife laughed her **** off when I showed her my upgraded garage wall.

 

[The Cobbler]

the reason the ends of the drywall aren't tapered is because drywall is extruded and cut to length . anyone that is any good at mudding can make the **** joints lost . there are actually systems that pull the sheets inwards ( and you can make your own) at the butts to help .
laying drywall horizontal is actually less prone to crack at the joints as it's like brickwork with staggered horizontal joints .
the old plaster had issues too, yeah it was stronger, less flat in many cases, a ton more work, a lot harder to renovate... the list goes on.

 

[dcg9381]

I learned very quickly while building our house that if you want anything other than “how it’s always done” you better be prepared to stand around all day and watch. It doesn’t matter how many times you tell them. As soon as you leave they revert back to the “normal” way of doing things.

I've found that it's better to have it written in the initial bid. That way it can't be easily disputed or hit you with an increased cost. That doesn't mean that they'll do it that way, but it has meant (for me) that if I catch it quick enough, they get to do it over and eat the cost. Problem (here) is often that the guy doing the bid / contract isn't doing the work or supervising it much.

Example for Zip-R, our contract stated that it would be installed per manufacturer's recommended instructions.

I'd never build another house without living on site to supervise... Too many things that are easy to hide.

Plan "details" on things like corner framing can help too if you want something "alternative". Want base plate seals instead of foam, I specify.