What tools and procedure do you all follow when performing a flush on a modern A/C system. I will be purchasing tools to perform this on my own as I have all the other tools to finish the compressor, liquid line with orfice tube and dryer change. (This compressor released parts into the system.)
A/C Flush Tools
- Thread starter ephotrod
- Start date
mikebaker1129
Well-known member
They sell a blow device and flush at the HVAC parts supply house,but it is just a standard air bow gun with a large rubber stopper that fits most lines.
Use a can of flush and then blow out the lines with nitrogen.
R11 was common to use back in the day,but is no longer to be used for this purpose do to it being a CFC.
The new flush is also called R11, just find a place local that has it.
It is pretty common,we call it "Black death".
Use a can of flush and then blow out the lines with nitrogen.
R11 was common to use back in the day,but is no longer to be used for this purpose do to it being a CFC.
The new flush is also called R11, just find a place local that has it.
It is pretty common,we call it "Black death".
Wamsutta
Well-known member
You just have to back flush the condenser. Most of the fragmented parts will be caught by the screen in the orifice tube. Fill the tank up with denatured alcohol.
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Most of the AC flush chemicals available outside of California are pretty toxic. You don't want to breathe it or let it come in contact with your bare skin. The best flush machines are self contained, attach to your AC lines and pump the flush solvent through the system without you really breathing or touching it much.
Unfortunately, these machines are pretty pricey for DIY.
The DIY flush kit consists of a pressurized can, a rubber hose, and spray nozzle.
http://www.tooltopia.com/mastercool-91046-a.aspx
Basically, you squirt the flush chemical through each component from one end and out the other into a drain pan. you need to have an air compressor to recharge the flush can as needed.
On a side note, late model condensers have such small holes, that flushing often doesn't work well. Good luck in your endeavor.
Unfortunately, these machines are pretty pricey for DIY.
The DIY flush kit consists of a pressurized can, a rubber hose, and spray nozzle.
http://www.tooltopia.com/mastercool-91046-a.aspx
Basically, you squirt the flush chemical through each component from one end and out the other into a drain pan. you need to have an air compressor to recharge the flush can as needed.
On a side note, late model condensers have such small holes, that flushing often doesn't work well. Good luck in your endeavor.
mikebaker1129
Well-known member
No air in an AC/ refrigeration system. Nitrogen is preferred .
Lotek
Well-known member
I'd replace the condenser rather than try to flush it, just not worth the risk of destroying a new compressor. Flush the lines, if they look clean backflush the evaporator and call it a day.
Stumpync
Member
Hi Josh, we do a fair amount of ac work at the shop where I work. Mainly European cars, but I have a background in domestic and Asian. We flush with a cleaning fluid specifically for ac systems forced through from a reservoir that has a triggered nozzle attached, pressurized by shop air. Then dried out with shop air regulated down for 15-20 minutes.
We attach a hose from the outlet to a 5 gallon bucket loaded with rags, hole I the lid, to catch the oil and cleaner vapors. Seems to work well for us.
Sorry no photos. Not at work. Having a great 4th on the porch.
One thing to think about, though. The condenser tubes on modern systems have extremely small inside diameters to be more efficient. They clog very easily and are difficult to flush.
We usually replace the condenser with catastrophic compressor failures. Oem condensers or oe equivalent are most efficient. Cheap aftermarket replacements have larger tubes and your cooling will suffer because of this.
Hope I helped, I've learned a ton on gj, like to pay back just a little.
Brad
We attach a hose from the outlet to a 5 gallon bucket loaded with rags, hole I the lid, to catch the oil and cleaner vapors. Seems to work well for us.
Sorry no photos. Not at work. Having a great 4th on the porch.
One thing to think about, though. The condenser tubes on modern systems have extremely small inside diameters to be more efficient. They clog very easily and are difficult to flush.
We usually replace the condenser with catastrophic compressor failures. Oem condensers or oe equivalent are most efficient. Cheap aftermarket replacements have larger tubes and your cooling will suffer because of this.
Hope I helped, I've learned a ton on gj, like to pay back just a little.
Brad
keen
Well-known member
used a similar kit a few weeks ago - the big fat rubber nozzle on it wouldn't fit into a single component end (mini cooper), so it ended up being a massive pain. (and the fittings didn't interchange with any of my numerous other air gun tips)
the one I used - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JMEQW/?tag=atomicindus08-20
the flush chemical I used was reasonable, fast evap and no residue.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DKPJW0/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I also used a bunch of vinyl hose to fit over the other end of each section and fed that into a jug (with a rag tapped over the entry so air could come back out but let the rag catch splash back.
due to the inability to get the nozzle into the lines, nor to fit it into the places where the lines were, though, not a lot ended up coming out the other end, most of it came out the nozzle end...
from what I read, you only use the flush can to add chemical, then switch to a dry air (or nitrogen) pressurized line to blow it through. (dont try to use the flush can to blow it all the way through).
in a florida summer, the air in my compressed air lines is drier than the air in the atmosphere, so I'll have to depend on the new drier, and the nitrogen purge, and the deep vacuum, to handle the moisture....no point in trying to flush with nitrogen just to have it followed by air, imo.
Wamsutta
Well-known member
Is that like the one I have pictured up there?
Stumpync
Member
Yes it is, nearly identical. Ours is much older and abused!
mbshop
Well-known member
Black death means exactly that, death of the ac system. At minimum, the condenser and drier will need replacing. Most times the oricice tube or expansion valve also. Flushing was complicated here in calif.
I would disconnect all hoses and flush hoses and lines independantly. If you have a cannister muffler that also needs replacing. Even after all that, I always installed an inline filter just before the comp. Flushing just will not get every little speck of carbon or metal out.
good luck.
I would disconnect all hoses and flush hoses and lines independantly. If you have a cannister muffler that also needs replacing. Even after all that, I always installed an inline filter just before the comp. Flushing just will not get every little speck of carbon or metal out.
good luck.