A DIY 4 Post Storage Lift
- Thread starter akdiesel
- Start date
Cargo,
Here are some of the pully configurations.
The first picture show the main post that houses the four cable distribution that is just above the winch. The top bracket is welded at the corner for added strength.
The next picture shows the opposite corner that takes one of the cables over and down to the lifting eye. The top bracket was welded at the corner and a top piece was added to support the bolt holding the two horizontal pullies.
The third picture shows a pully that is the same for both front corners.
The fourth picture gives a close up of the outside view of the pully configuration on the right side.
All of these brackets are 1/4" steel and show no signs of twisting or bending.
Try to over look the springs. I ordered a box of the attachments and went with one type, they make others that are cleaner looking.
Here are some of the pully configurations.
The first picture show the main post that houses the four cable distribution that is just above the winch. The top bracket is welded at the corner for added strength.
The next picture shows the opposite corner that takes one of the cables over and down to the lifting eye. The top bracket was welded at the corner and a top piece was added to support the bolt holding the two horizontal pullies.
The third picture shows a pully that is the same for both front corners.
The fourth picture gives a close up of the outside view of the pully configuration on the right side.
All of these brackets are 1/4" steel and show no signs of twisting or bending.
Try to over look the springs. I ordered a box of the attachments and went with one type, they make others that are cleaner looking.
Attachments
What a great idea!!
So you lift the upper shelf in to place with the winch, put the pins in to lock it in to place, then disconnect the cables, attach the cables to the lower shelf and lift to the height you want. Pin in the second shelf for added security?
Mike
So you lift the upper shelf in to place with the winch, put the pins in to lock it in to place, then disconnect the cables, attach the cables to the lower shelf and lift to the height you want. Pin in the second shelf for added security?
Mike
mrb,
You are correct. I should use the solid eye bolts but everything on the unit is rated for the weight at each corner for a safety factor of approx 3.
The cables are simply held in place by weight like most any cable lift. the pins used are on a hinge and slide on the slotted Uni-strut so that if for any reason the cables fail or it slips on the motor the pins will fall into a corrosponding slot. I have tried to go as fast as I can down to see how well the pins catch. They catch every time but not all completely level.
I had some binding at first but that was due to the alignment of the Uni-strut.
This set up is in use daily since the beginning of this thread and I just swapped over the snowmachines for the lawn tractor, bikes, lawn furniture, etc.
You are correct. I should use the solid eye bolts but everything on the unit is rated for the weight at each corner for a safety factor of approx 3.
The cables are simply held in place by weight like most any cable lift. the pins used are on a hinge and slide on the slotted Uni-strut so that if for any reason the cables fail or it slips on the motor the pins will fall into a corrosponding slot. I have tried to go as fast as I can down to see how well the pins catch. They catch every time but not all completely level.
I had some binding at first but that was due to the alignment of the Uni-strut.
This set up is in use daily since the beginning of this thread and I just swapped over the snowmachines for the lawn tractor, bikes, lawn furniture, etc.
I can buy the UniStrut from the local Menards or Home Depot. Anybody have a suggestion where I can find the rest of the items? I have no idea where to look for the trolley's, pulley's or other pieces needed for this.
Thanks,
Ron
Thanks,
Ron
Motofixxer
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 10, 2009
- Messages
- 681
I was talking to Steve Douglas at Complete Hydraulic about my new Motorcycle lift. He said they have a complete Hydraulic shop and can custom build literally anything. If someone really wanted a nice properly engineered and built custom lift, I bet they could do it. They were on Extreme Makeover and did a custom in ground motorcycle lift on ManCave. Might be worth contacting them.
squierandco
New member
- Joined
- May 26, 2012
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- 1
Can you get pictures of the cable and pulleys, alto the cable routing from the winch to each drop and pulley. Great rig. Hope to be building mine next month.
Sorry for the wait. Been tiling a floor in the house.
So here are three pictures.
It's not that easy to get a good picture of the cable run so you can see them and where they are connected. One corner is the main starting point. I have four cables set up. Two of them stay on that same side and take care of those two corners while the other two go the far end and lift the other two corners.
The lead weights in the picture is to help the hooks drop when I change from the upper platform to the go to the lower one.
Hope this helps you out.
So here are three pictures.
It's not that easy to get a good picture of the cable run so you can see them and where they are connected. One corner is the main starting point. I have four cables set up. Two of them stay on that same side and take care of those two corners while the other two go the far end and lift the other two corners.
The lead weights in the picture is to help the hooks drop when I change from the upper platform to the go to the lower one.
Hope this helps you out.
Attachments
Steevo
Well-known member
I like your new locking mechanism a lot better then the original.
Nice execution on the whole thing.
How much does it "wobble" side to side when loaded? Are the back verticals attached to the wall to prevent this?
Also, I am guessing those bicycles don't get used much if you have to drag out the snow machine, and unload the mower to get to them
Nice execution on the whole thing.
How much does it "wobble" side to side when loaded? Are the back verticals attached to the wall to prevent this?
Also, I am guessing those bicycles don't get used much if you have to drag out the snow machine, and unload the mower to get to them
RonRock, I know the feeling. Projects galore for me as well.
Steevo, it does wobble some if you grab it and shake it. I tested this in the beginning with only the top platform loaded at the highest setting with two snowmachines (a total of about 800#). My BendPak will also do the same with a 7400# truck on it but not as drastic.
This was to simply simulate, as best that I could an earth quake. No failures (luckily), and no damage.
I chose to keep mine free standing and movable so it is not fastened to the wall. It can very easily be fastened to a wall and that wold cut down on the movement considerably.
Now when raising or lowering the platforms there is no wobble at all.
The bikes just got brought down last week so my wife could get ready for her mini triathlon.
Steevo, it does wobble some if you grab it and shake it. I tested this in the beginning with only the top platform loaded at the highest setting with two snowmachines (a total of about 800#). My BendPak will also do the same with a 7400# truck on it but not as drastic.
This was to simply simulate, as best that I could an earth quake. No failures (luckily), and no damage.
I chose to keep mine free standing and movable so it is not fastened to the wall. It can very easily be fastened to a wall and that wold cut down on the movement considerably.
Now when raising or lowering the platforms there is no wobble at all.
The bikes just got brought down last week so my wife could get ready for her mini triathlon.
The only wheels I find on the Uni strut website are pipe rollers. Will you please provide more information and any pictures of the rollers in place? Thanks
The ones I used for the lift are P2750. Here is the link for the info.
http://www.unistrut.us/index.php?WP=cat_detail&S=S05&P=P2750
They don not support any of the load but simply stabilize and help the platforms to travel smoothly.
If I remember correctly I drilled out the attachment hole slightly to accept a 3/8" or a 7/16" bolt used to connect to the corner brackets.
In the pic you can see how it is attached to the L bracket. One could eliminate a lot of bolts but welding some of the brackets together. I did this to some and could have done it more but I was anxious to see the results. The parts I did weld keep them from turning or moving on the bolts during installation and or use.
Attachments
Added a couple of brackets to the lift to store my 24' ladder. I can not stand the ladder up right since I only have a 12'6" ceiling so I figured this would be a good location out of the way and above head level.
The ladder is fiberglass and weights approx 75 lbs. The brackets are 1 5/8" unistrut at 12" long. The lift is plenty strong enough in addition to hold this on the side. I had to use a prusik knot to hold the end of the ladder so it can be placed by one person without sliding off or falling since I was not able to straddle one of the rungs on the end due to the wall clearance. It is crude right now but it works for additional storage.
The ladder is fiberglass and weights approx 75 lbs. The brackets are 1 5/8" unistrut at 12" long. The lift is plenty strong enough in addition to hold this on the side. I had to use a prusik knot to hold the end of the ladder so it can be placed by one person without sliding off or falling since I was not able to straddle one of the rungs on the end due to the wall clearance. It is crude right now but it works for additional storage.
Coolerman
Well-known member
Very nicely thought out! I have marked this thread for the future. I plan to build a loft in the back of my small shop to store body parts while working on a project vehicle. This device shortened, and mounted on wheels, would make the perfect one story elevator! Again, very good idea!
This is excellent!! 
Have a great place to use something like this... and it should make my storage area MUCH more safe too! (Have been climbing up and down ladders with very heavy things balanced in 1 or 2 hands for years Wife is always pushing "safety" things.)
My only "real" questions are:
1. "How long have you been using your lift?" (I see this post looks to be ~4 years old), &
2. "How has it held up over time?" Sounded like you were using it at least several times a week at the beginning... wondered if you've had to beef anything up? if you'd noticed any cables fraying? or if you ever felt the need to tack-weld (or replace) any eye-bolts?
Have a great place to use something like this... and it should make my storage area MUCH more safe too! (Have been climbing up and down ladders with very heavy things balanced in 1 or 2 hands for years Wife is always pushing "safety" things.) My only "real" questions are:
1. "How long have you been using your lift?" (I see this post looks to be ~4 years old), &
2. "How has it held up over time?" Sounded like you were using it at least several times a week at the beginning... wondered if you've had to beef anything up? if you'd noticed any cables fraying? or if you ever felt the need to tack-weld (or replace) any eye-bolts?
Didaktos
The lift has been in use since I've built it (approx 4 years). Cables are still in good shape with no fraying. I did change up the hoist frame due to the older one showing some signs of twisting. That has been about a year now.
The only other improvements I've done were adding folding ramps for each platform and the ladder brackets.
The eye bolts, cable pulleys, cable, platforms, etc are still original and show no signs of heavy use or damage.
The lift has been in use since I've built it (approx 4 years). Cables are still in good shape with no fraying. I did change up the hoist frame due to the older one showing some signs of twisting. That has been about a year now.
The only other improvements I've done were adding folding ramps for each platform and the ladder brackets.
The eye bolts, cable pulleys, cable, platforms, etc are still original and show no signs of heavy use or damage.
Muggzy
Well-known member
I just stumbled onto this thread and your hoist is awesome!
Is there any chance you could post some pics of these updates?Muggzy
Thank you. I can get pictures for you in a couple of weeks (at work now), but the ramps are simply 1/4" diamond plate aluminum (scrapped from my trailer) bolted with a couple simple hinges to each ramp.
In the first pic of the ladder brackets you can see the upper level ramp folded up.
Thank you. I can get pictures for you in a couple of weeks (at work now), but the ramps are simply 1/4" diamond plate aluminum (scrapped from my trailer) bolted with a couple simple hinges to each ramp.
In the first pic of the ladder brackets you can see the upper level ramp folded up.
millwight.mike
Well-known member
Great job. I hope I can find all this in the great white north. Thanks for all the info.
omg I have searched all over the internet for something similar to this. I was unsure on how to route the cables using one winch
have you had a chance to put together some instructions on assembly?
congrats on your design, and thank you so much for sharing with all of us
GREAT JOB
have you had a chance to put together some instructions on assembly?
congrats on your design, and thank you so much for sharing with all of us
GREAT JOB
jeffro9
Thanks for the comments.
I don't have any instruction except what was discussed in the thread.
The cable system did take some figuring out. Obviously four different lengths but the extra thread in the eye bolts make up for any incorrect alignment when clamping the eyelets on the cable ends.
Thanks for the comments.
I don't have any instruction except what was discussed in the thread.
The cable system did take some figuring out. Obviously four different lengths but the extra thread in the eye bolts make up for any incorrect alignment when clamping the eyelets on the cable ends.
pmiranda
Well-known member
Unfortunately if your load is not perfectly balanced, I don't think you have any safety factor left at all. And that's bad because safety factor is there partly to account for manufacturing defects, but also to allow for dynamic loading. Fuel sloshing in the tank, vibration from the motor, impulses from starting and stopping the winch, etc. all create dynamic load that is greater than the dead load of the platform, what you're lifting, and friction of the pulleys and rollers.
Also, the entire load (plus friction of the pulleys and rollers and increased load wherever the cables aren't perfectly straight) has to go through the one hook at the winch, so hopefully that's rated for your full load.
Easy rule of thumb unless you get a full load analysis of the entire system is to only lift as much as the weakest component can handle.
I also worry about the way the bolts are being used as locking pins. Bolts are meant to handle uniform tension and static shear load in a hole the exact size of the bolt.
Maybe the pictures aren't representative of how they look once they fully loaded in place, but having it at an angle means there is an angular load on the head of the bolt (the tack welds might help, assuming the heat didn't actually just make the bolt weaker since grade 8 bolts are usually heat treated).
The real problem is that the bolts are just loose in those slots. Normally a bolt in the correct size hole is fully supported on all sides, so the load is distributed across the whole side of the bolt. In your use, the load is only going through the small surface of the bolt in contact with the bottom of the unistrut slot, and the bolt has no support on the other side.
Obviously your lift is not going to fall apart just because I wrote all that... just beware that you have nowhere near the strength or safety that you could have with some changes. You're already being smart and not putting people under or on it. I'd suggest that when you have finished lifting you let enough weight rest on the locking bolts that they wouldn't move much if the cables broke. The dynamic load of a cable breaking for some reason if the bolts are loose would put WAY more load on those bolts than if they are already under some load.
I'd love to see some ideas for a better safety lock. The fundamental problem is that there's a reason normal lift safety locks have flat faces that bear on flat surfaces... to prevent point loading. Maybe you could reverse the struts and bolt blocks inside the channels which a square washer on the bolts could rest on? I like that gravity is doing the work you normally need a spring to do. Also, you have to avoid any load on the threaded part of the bolts... it can't take shear forces.
And to make a long post even longer... I'd add some diagonal bracing in the corners of the lifting frame to resist the side loads the pulleys put on the joints.
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With all do respect to safety, myself and anyone that works with me on anything I do I put theirs and my safety first. The 1/2" grade 8 bolts used for safety pins are well below their shear strength. Each platform is approx. 1300# (including the platform weight and the load) Distribute that to four corners and you have a 325# static load on each bolt. Each strut in column form can handle over 1300#. So a slotted strut will not be able to handle as much of a load as the solid strut but still well below the rated load capacity for this application.
I am not building this to sell. I built this to work in my shop for my purpose as most builds done on this site and many more sites.
Take a look at some four post lifts that are commercially sold (BendPak) with a load on them and then try to move one of the legs. They move more then I felt comfortable with but they still work and are still safe.
Your suggestions are well considered. I like over engineering things to last, but there is a point to where things become less safe by taking out the common sense of things.
lakeroadster
Well-known member
If I may make a suggestion: Use a Machinery Eyebolt where the hoist attaches to the carriage. Machinery eyebolts are made specifically for lifting.
lakeroadster
Well-known member
Moe 07014
New member
Hi Ron,
I know a lot of time has passed since you posted this question, but I wanted to throw McMaster-Carr and Grainger into the mix if you haven't checked them by now. Pricing is a bit on the high side with them, but you know what you're getting when you buy through them (can't say the same thing for amazon or ebay).
AKDiesel, this thread and this build is so damn cool that I had to stop ghosting and commend you for such an innovative space-saver (and back-saver, too). Thank you!