A drill for someone who hardly uses one.

[Glock Ness Monster]

Hello everyone. My $20 Big Lots special cordless drill (ni-cad batteries) recently stopped working. I very seldom need a drill, but find having one around to be handy. My research has lead me to the conclusion that another cordless drill might not be the best idea as posts I have read stated the cordless drills need to be run regularly to keep the batteries healthy. I only need a drill two or three times a year. So I am trying to decide on cordless vs corded.

The only corded drill I have found with an electric brake is the Hitachi D13VF 9 Amp 1/2-Inch Drill. So this seems to be my only choice for corded.

As far as keeping the batteries healthy, could one just simply periodically grab the drill and run it for a couple of minutes? Maybe do this once or twice a month?

I will be using the drill to fasten shutters to the house, hang a few fluorescent lights, and drill several holes in the bench work of my model railroad. After that, it might be months before I need the drill again.

Will I be better off just going with the corded drill, or does a nice cordless drill exist that has batteries that will remain healthy with limited use? Thank you for any help on this subject. Have a good day.

 

[tweedlestan]

Sounds like you need a corded drill. You don't need an electric brake for running screws, you'll get used to the "feel" before too long.

I'd suggest getting 3/8, and try finding a good quality one at a pawn shop. I got an American-made Craftsman VSR for $5 once.

 

[Provincial]

If you mostly drive screws, look for a used corded drywall screw gun. They are plentiful and cheap. You should be able to pick up a Milwaukee or DeWalt for $20-35.00. It will last you a lifetime, and has an adjustable clutch to resist stripping out Phillips heads.

Notice I said "resist" stripping out Phillips heads - there is no device in the world that can "prevent" stripping out a Phillips head!!!!

 

[jd_1138]

A drill with a lithium-ion battery wouldn't need to be discharged/used occasionally to keep it working well. It lacks the memory effect that ni-cad batteries have. If you're outside the house doing your shutters, cordless might be nice to have.

 

[Coaster Mech]

I got tired of cursing at my cordless for always being "dead" when I need to do a small job. So I too made the switch to a corded. I got a Milwaukee 3/8". And I couldn't be happier. and as tweedle said, don't worry about a brake.... It's really no big deal!

 

[woody 73]

I was at a garage sale some time back and it was a bust for the most part, but I picked up a corded well used and abused drill and before the lady could tell me a price I said $2.00 dollars and she yelled "SOLD". So deals are out there...

Only cheaper drill I could find this day on CL, but you get the idea:

http://columbus.craigslist.org/tld/4031509499.html

Keep looking and they will show up.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Sounds like you need a corded drill. You don't need an electric brake for running screws, you'll get used to the "feel" before too long.

I'd suggest getting 3/8, and try finding a good quality one at a pawn shop. I got an American-made Craftsman VSR for $5 once.

I don't know why folks are so down on corded power tools ! As the OP stated, for very occasional use the hassle of pulling out an extension cord far out ways a dead battery !

Yes, NiMH are better than NiCAD and Lithium are even better but why spend that kind of money on something you are going to use only a few times a year ?

Pawn shop, Craig's List, garage sale. You should not have to pay more than $10. I would stay away from the really old ones with metal housing and 3 prong plugs. Make sure you have a decent 25-50' 16 gauge extension cord. That might cost you more than the drill !

 

[Davefr]

A drill with a lithium-ion battery wouldn't need to be discharged/used occasionally to keep it working well. It lacks the memory effect that ni-cad batteries have. If you're outside the house doing your shutters, cordless might be nice to have.

Yes, but the Lithium Ion battery chemistry starts to self destruct the minute it leaves the factory. After a few years it'll be shot even if the drill never gets used.

Then the homeowner will be faced with a big expensive to either replace the drill or order a new expensive battery.

It's a no brainer. For only a few holes/year in a home get a corded drill and an extension cord.

High end corded drill that originally cost >>$100 can be purchased at g-sales for a few bucks and will last forever.

 

[Canoe50]

I don't know why folks are so down on corded power tools ! As the OP stated, for very occasional use the hassle of pulling out an extension cord far out ways a dead battery !

Yes, NiMH are better than NiCAD and Lithium are even better but why spend that kind of money on something you are going to use only a few times a year ?

Pawn shop, Craig's List, garage sale. You should not have to pay more than $10. I would stay away from the really old ones with metal housing and 3 prong plugs. Make sure you have a decent 25-50' 16 gauge extension cord. That might cost you more than the drill !

Why stay away from the ones with metal housing & 3 prong plug? Safety issue?

 

[machine_punk]

I don't currently own a cordless drill, but I have several corded drills (and use a pneumatic drill in the shop). I find the one I like the most is a Craftsman 3/8" chuck, variable-speed, reversible. What I like the most about it is that it has a level built into, so that you can get a level hole when mounting pictures, etc.

I keep a nice, short, 20-foot extension cord (long enough to reach pretty much any outlet in the house, but short enough to be coiled and stored quickly) and a full set of DeWalt bits (you know the little yellow box-o-bits) and a general set of drill bits and it does pretty much everything I need to do.

Kev

 

[Joe B.]

I don't currently own a cordless drill, but I have several corded drills (and use a pneumatic drill in the shop). I find the one I like the most is a Craftsman 3/8" chuck, variable-speed, reversible. What I like the most about it is that it has a level built into, so that you can get a level hole when mounting pictures, etc.

I have one like that from the 90s. The level was great, I don't know why that is not standard.

 

[ajchien]

I prefer my corded drills. Smaller, lighter, more powerful.

But I use my cordless if I have to go and find an extension cord.

 

[joshmodelskidoo]

i have both but i use the cordless 90% of the time.just get yourself a brand name one. i would bet a skill or black and decker would even last you for years

 

[comedyman809]

if all you need is a small drill, get one of those little mini drill drivers or the mini drills that go with the m12 or the bosch, all the brands have the small cordless.

the batteries are cheaper than the 18 volt, handle very well. and the batteries last plenty long. i have lithium on all my cordless, going on 4-6yrs for all the batteries without replacing any, just recently replaced a m12. these are well used tools. take care of your cordless tools, dont lend them out, and they will treat you right.

 

[Glock Ness Monster]

Thanks for the responses, gentlemen. They are much appreciated.

 

[WWIIjeep]

Why stay away from the ones with metal housing & 3 prong plug? Safety issue?

He's probably concerned about the potential for ground faults in older metal-cased portable tools that are damaged or haven't been properly-maintained.

Ideally, in used power tools, you'd want to look for something of 70s/80s/90s vintage which is double-insulated, in good condition, and likely US-made, but older high-quality metal-cased tools can be perfectly functional and safe if used with a little common sense and proper maintenance. There are many older metal-cased tools which came with insulated handles and grips. They don't qualify as "double-insulated" and still have 3-wire cords and plugs, but they are an improvement over all-metal versions, and can be perfectly safe to use if properly maintained.

Replace damaged power cords and make sure the ground wire is securely connected to the metal case, and don't cut off the U-ground on the plug, as some people are wont to do. In addition, you'll probably be using the tool on a GFCI receptacle, so that limits the electrical shock hazard. If you're not using a GFCI, you should be, regardless of the age of the tool.

I wouldn't hesitate to buy an older high-quality portable tool just because it's 3-wire. The overall condition, quality and features are the important factor. In the case of portable drills, the real reason you might want to avoid an older model--even a high-quality one in good condition--is because many of them are single-speed, which can limit their usefulness as drill-drivers or for drilling certain materials.

 

[cheechi]

I own 2 corded drills and they definitely have their place.

For you, take a look at the other tools that are available in the 18v or 12v platform you're interested. If it's not drilling holes, but driving screws, maybe a drill & an impact would be useful for you and might fill a need elsewhere also. Cutting tools, dremel/grinder/sander type tools are also available. Don't discount cordless tools just based on the utility of (arguably the least useful anymore) a drill alone.

For example, my M12 flashlight, hackzall, impact driver, and dremel in that order all get used more than all my drills combined. And now with my heated hoodie those batteries bout to get a workout.

 

[Canoe50]

He's probably concerned about the potential for ground faults in older metal-cased portable tools that are damaged or haven't been properly-maintained.

Ideally, in used power tools, you'd want to look for something of 70s/80s/90s vintage which is double-insulated, in good condition, and likely US-made, but older high-quality metal-cased tools can be perfectly functional and safe if used with a little common sense and proper maintenance. There are many older metal-cased tools which came with insulated handles and grips. They don't qualify as "double-insulated" and still have 3-wire cords and plugs, but they are an improvement over all-metal versions, and can be perfectly safe to use if properly maintained.

Replace damaged power cords and make sure the ground wire is securely connected to the metal case, and don't cut off the U-ground on the plug, as some people are wont to do. In addition, you'll probably be using the tool on a GFCI receptacle, so that limits the electrical shock hazard. If you're not using a GFCI, you should be, regardless of the age of the tool.

I wouldn't hesitate to buy an older high-quality portable tool just because it's 3-wire. The overall condition, quality and features are the important factor. In the case of portable drills, the real reason you might want to avoid an older model--even a high-quality one in good condition--is because many of them are single-speed, which can limit their usefulness as drill-drivers or for drilling certain materials.

Thank you sir. I just picked up a mint, all metal Craftsman circular saw (315.27890) & why I asked. I didn't really need another saw, but for $25 & how nice the condition is, thought I'd grab it anyway. When I got home, I tried it on a scrap piece of 2x12 pressure treated lumber & it went through it like butter. Thanks again.

 

[Loscaldazar]

Porter Cable 20V?

I got mine for $100 with 2 batteries, a fancy charger (with overcharging protection, battery tending, and some other cool things) and the drill. I love the drill. Lots of power and the battery life is OK-about 40 minutes of drilling (the two batteries that come with it are lightweight batteries, and they are supposed to be releasing larger, regular capacity batteries soon). Takes 40 minutes to charge the battery two. So two batteries with 40 minutes of life, and 40 minutes of charge time means next to no down time. Li-ion so they stay charged with minimal drain for 12 months.