mikebramel
Well-known member
The loadpro has half an amp load. the Voltpro has 80 milliamps
The loadpro has half an amp load. the Voltpro has 80 milliamps
I mostly use my PP3 for effecting entry into locked cars with the keys inside.
Or I might use it to temporarily run a supply or ground to a fuel pump with a broken/corroded wire to get it back to the workshop.
I think you just learn more quickly using a DVOM, the more you use it the better you get with it, then when you get a tricky job its second nature.
Can you explain what this means and which is good or bad? I'm electrically challanged so don't really understand how the loadpro had half an amp load?
My DVOM is about all I use when Im really digging into an electrical problem. None of the other tools do what a dvom can, and with the addition of a load tester it cant be beat. I pull my noid lights out to check injectors and occasionally a test light if I need to be at another area of the car (ie brake lamps). But after a small problem I had last week with an Acadia and the drivers window not working, Ive decided to pull the trigger on the load Pro. Ive had it in my amazon cart for probably over a year and honestly kinda forgot about it. Being able to quickly apply a load probably would have saved me 30 minutes when diagnosing that bad window switch. I kept getting conflicting readings/wrong readings and it made me second guess myself and my Fluke
BTW if you havent checked your batteries in your meter recently, Now is a good time. I found a half swollen 9V and some corroded screws (battery leakage)in mine while popping the cover open to look for obvious issues.
Can you explain how you power up components with a DVOM?
And seriously can we discuss this like adults without the stupid tags at the bottomof the page.I do not want to get this thread locked because there is actulally good info without all the bickering.
Mercedes has been doing drive by wire braking for close to ten years. It's a system called sbc. It uses hydraulic fluid like a conventional brake setup but the brake pedal is just an electrical switch that turns on a pump that works the brakes.
My DVOM is about all I use when Im really digging into an electrical problem. None of the other tools do what a dvom can, and with the addition of a load tester it cant be beat. I pull my noid lights out to check injectors and occasionally a test light if I need to be at another area of the car (ie brake lamps). But after a small problem I had last week with an Acadia and the drivers window not working, Ive decided to pull the trigger on the load Pro. Ive had it in my amazon cart for probably over a year and honestly kinda forgot about it. Being able to quickly apply a load probably would have saved me 30 minutes when diagnosing that bad window switch. I kept getting conflicting readings/wrong readings and it made me second guess myself and my Fluke
BTW if you havent checked your batteries in your meter recently, Now is a good time. I found a half swollen 9V and some corroded screws (battery leakage)in mine while popping the cover open to look for obvious issues.
Can't the mods ban the members who post such rude tags that are aimed at a named forum member?
Keep the discussion going guys.
My Fluke had a low battery a while back and it was acting possessed until I realized what was happening. It had me thrown way off track when I was taking some measurements.
What are you getting at BC?
Data Transmission network not a safe area to test?
Its OK if you follow the rules, it doesn,t carry a load, so unless you isolate the physical layer from the nodes and power it independently you wouldn,t ever need to use any of those 3 tools anyway. Although you can use a DVOM and Load Pro to carry out some network testing.
That still leaves an awful lot of load carrying wiring to test.