A-Frame hoist

[superkonr]

I'm looking into building an A-Frame/gantry. I'd need it to pull engines, so probably 1/2 ton capacity and ~6ft wide. It must be able to be broken down and stored. I'd like to spend about $300. Any ideas or sources for plans? I've seen some old school ones that drag racers used that were made of pipe. If the whole thing could thread together or use sleeves that would be great. I can make some decent welds, at the moment I've only got a 120v Lincoln flux core welder.
I was thinking 2" sch. 40 (.150 wall) for the legs, for the connectors I'd weld together some bigger sch. 40 tubing for them to slip into. For the cross piece maybe slip some 1-1/2" sch 40 into a 2" piece for a total of .300 wall. However I'm not trying to kill myself at the moment so I'd appreciate any advice
I wouldn't mind something like the HF gantry setups but $700 is too damn expensive for some chinese kid's stick welds.
Thanks!

 

[bczygan]

Either engineer it, or copy one that has been engineered.

That's the only way you will know it's capacity for sure.

http://www.wallacecranes.com/tricombo.htm

Bill

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

Any reason it has to be an A frame gantry type? Why not a simple $99 engine hoist that can be folded up and stored?

 

[superkonr]

Any reason it has to be an A frame gantry type? Why not a simple $99 engine hoist that can be folded up and stored?

I was thinking about those but in my experience, those $99 fold up cranes don't reach far enough to do much and the legs get in the way of just about everything. Even the older non-foldable one that I've been using has been a pain.

 

[Vegaman_Dan]

In that case, look into a tripod style or teepee type of support.

Pipes are best in compression. When you start pulling on them sideways, you'll bend them readily.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

 

[gorilla]

Pipe is not a good material for structural use especially the Chinese junk that's available these days. I'd use H beam for the top member and box tube for the legs. All it takes is one kink or bend in the pipe and it will collapse like a house of cards.

 

[superkonr]

Thanks, I won't use pipe then especially for the top beam.

 

[sberry]

Some of the China welding is flawless. Waay better than a newbie with a 120v flux machine. If materials are 300 and the ready made is 700 you are wasting your time. The China ones have at least had an engineer put a pencil to it, likely have experienced welders, come painted and fit.

 

[sberry]

As for what works the 99$ folding one isn't very good but the 249$ 2T is and probabley the first and maybe the only rigging machine a guy needs.

 

[Richard D]

I just used an a frame to pull the cabs off a couple pickup trucks, an engine hoist would not lift high enough. In fact, we had to put some big chunks of wood piling to raise it. This a frame is made of pretty thin ****, looks to be 2" tube not even pipe, almost like a kid's swing set, and pretty rusty as well. That said, it works just fine. 2" sch. 40, while not MEANT for structural, would not make me nervous in the slight bit.

By the way, 1-1/2" will fit inside 2" sch. 80. Sometimes it needs a bit of sanding but it will go.

 

[astroracer]

And price out the material. I would use, minimum, 4 x 6 x 1/4web x 8' long I-Beam for the top and at least 3 x 3 x 1/4 wall x 8' long tube for the uprights. 2 x 2 x 1/8th wall would work if you doubled it up.
Once you get it priced out the 250$ engine hoist will probably look pretty good... If you add a smaller tube (slide it inside the hoist tube) you can gain a couple of feet of reach without hurting anything. Just watch the tipiness as you are pulling an engine.
Mark

 

[sberry]

I got a couple buds who have those and it does what they need to do. Even another small one might aid in a cab pull if this was a job real likely to be done and might cross that bridge if and when.
Mine is a size bigger but my world is a bit more tahn found in hobby or suburbs etc.

 

[superkonr]

I just used an a frame to pull the cabs off a couple pickup trucks, an engine hoist would not lift high enough. In fact, we had to put some big chunks of wood piling to raise it. This a frame is made of pretty thin ****, looks to be 2" tube not even pipe, almost like a kid's swing set, and pretty rusty as well. That said, it works just fine. 2" sch. 40, while not MEANT for structural, would not make me nervous in the slight bit.

By the way, 1-1/2" will fit inside 2" sch. 80. Sometimes it needs a bit of sanding but it will go.

I attached some pictures of one that would work perfect for me (credit to HemiDeuce on the HAMB), sounds like it's similar to the one you use. What do you think? I'm only lifting maybe 400#, just inline sixes with no transmissions attached. Two guys can pick one up. I realize now that pipe is not the best, but apparently this design worked in the pits for drag racers with full iron V8s. I don't want something super heavy duty, as it would be a pain to take down and would take up more room. I don't have a lot of space at the moment. But at the same time I'm not going to cheap out where there could be safety issues. It can be only 6ft wide, so the shorter crossbeam would be stronger.
Thanks

 

[superkonr]

Some of the China welding is flawless. Waay better than a newbie with a 120v flux machine. If materials are 300 and the ready made is 700 you are wasting your time. The China ones have at least had an engineer put a pencil to it, likely have experienced welders, come painted and fit.

Maybe I got a dud, but some of the welds on the chinese engine stands are horrible. I could lay down better welds even with a flux welder with proper prep. But yes, I'm not yet an engineer so I'm looking at how they were designed and what size materials they used. Thanks

 

[icedoc]

Having built a gantry crane last year in order to help move some heavy machinery, I can tell you they are an incredibly handy piece of equipment. With that said, it is not an item that is easily erected or stored - although storage for me consists of it hanging out in the middle of the shop. It rolls easily, so I can move it around as needed.

As memory serves me, I spent around $500-600 to build mine, but it's also designed to handle a 4000 lb load (once I install the specified I-Beam). The current beam is undersized, but was nearly free, so its being used in the interim. The castors are the next limiting factor.

If you do build one, I suggest making it adjustable. Mine telescopes vertically, and adjusts by simply placing a floor jack underneath the upright (inside the A-Frame). Works awesome, and I can adjust it without any help. The beam is clamped to the uprights, so I can also adjust the span as needed.

As others have suggested, you will unfortunately be limited by your welder size, but could probably make it work with sufficient chamfering and multiple passes. I would also recommend sticking to structural tubing, not pipe.

In the event you decide an A-frame is too much for your needs, I would reconsider the engine hoist idea. I have a Canbuilt unit that has telescoping legs to clear obstacles. It can get into some pretty tight spots provided a ballast is used. Extending the arm on an engine hoist would also be easier than building a gantry, although you may need to up-size the hydraulic cylinder or change its location on the arm.

Anyway, enough chatter. Here are a few gantry pics.

 

[superkonr]

As for what works the 99$ folding one isn't very good but the 249$ 2T is and probabley the first and maybe the only rigging machine a guy needs.

I was looking at the 2ton, still pretty short but it might have to do if the a frame won't work out.

 

[Richard D]

I attached some pictures of one that would work perfect for me (credit to HemiDeuce on the HAMB), sounds like it's similar to the one you use. What do you think? I'm only lifting maybe 400#, just inline sixes with no transmissions attached. Two guys can pick one up. I realize now that pipe is not the best, but apparently this design worked in the pits for drag racers with full iron V8s. I don't want something super heavy duty, as it would be a pain to take down and would take up more room. I don't have a lot of space at the moment. But at the same time I'm not going to cheap out where there could be safety issues. It can be only 6ft wide, so the shorter crossbeam would be stronger.
Thanks

An engineer would say no, you'll die and take all your neighbprs with you. I have used pipe to build plenty of stuff even though that is not what pipe is specifically designed for, so have countless others. First couple times you test it just be real careful. Hell, be real careful anytime you are lifting heavy items no matter what. Use common sense and don't tke a nap under a suspended load, you'll be fine.

 

[gorilla]

I attached some pictures of one that would work perfect for me (credit to HemiDeuce on the HAMB), sounds like it's similar to the one you use. What do you think? I'm only lifting maybe 400#, just inline sixes with no transmissions attached. Two guys can pick one up. I realize now that pipe is not the best, but apparently this design worked in the pits for drag racers with full iron V8s. I don't want something super heavy duty, as it would be a pain to take down and would take up more room. I don't have a lot of space at the moment. But at the same time I'm not going to cheap out where there could be safety issues. It can be only 6ft wide, so the shorter crossbeam would be stronger.
Thanks

Both of those may work but their not well built or well designed. No gussets or reinforcement of the connections for the top corners of the upper beam. I don't know the extent of your fabrication skills but that connection of the tube is a tough one to fit up and it's not a place you want to fill poor fit up with MIG weld. You can build a much better gantry with less effort by choosing different materials than pipe.

 

[superkonr]

I found another design that uses square tube and has braces for the top beam and legs, seems like that would be better. I have bigger welders, just don't have a power outlet so I'd have to take them to work and weld them there. I'm going to make a trip to the steel yard and see what kind of material I can get.
Thanks!

 

[superkonr]

An engineer would say no, you'll die and take all your neighbprs with you. I have used pipe to build plenty of stuff even though that is not what pipe is specifically designed for, so have countless others. First couple times you test it just be real careful. Hell, be real careful anytime you are lifting heavy items no matter what. Use common sense and don't tke a nap under a suspended load, you'll be fine.

Whatever I come up with, I'll carefully test it before I do anything and of course not stand under it. I've seen people pull big blocks with wooden 2x4 frames so I'm sure I could get away with using pipe, but I'll see what kind of materials I can get and go from there. Thanks!

 

[superkonr]

Having built a gantry crane last year in order to help move some heavy machinery, I can tell you they are an incredibly handy piece of equipment. With that said, it is not an item that is easily erected or stored - although storage for me consists of it hanging out in the middle of the shop. It rolls easily, so I can move it around as needed.

As memory serves me, I spent around $500-600 to build mine, but it's also designed to handle a 4000 lb load (once I install the specified I-Beam). The current beam is undersized, but was nearly free, so its being used in the interim. The castors are the next limiting factor.

If you do build one, I suggest making it adjustable. Mine telescopes vertically, and adjusts by simply placing a floor jack underneath the upright (inside the A-Frame). Works awesome, and I can adjust it without any help. The beam is clamped to the uprights, so I can also adjust the span as needed.

As others have suggested, you will unfortunately be limited by your welder size, but could probably make it work with sufficient chamfering and multiple passes. I would also recommend sticking to structural tubing, not pipe.

In the event you decide an A-frame is too much for your needs, I would reconsider the engine hoist idea. I have a Canbuilt unit that has telescoping legs to clear obstacles. It can get into some pretty tight spots provided a ballast is used. Extending the arm on an engine hoist would also be easier than building a gantry, although you may need to up-size the hydraulic cylinder or change its location on the arm.

Anyway, enough chatter. Here are a few gantry pics.

Nice! Adjustability would come in handy. Thanks for the pictures!

 

[sberry]

2 different designs here.

 

[Milton Shaw]

Don't forget the length of the hoist and chains when you are designing the lift. Those as some of the pictures above show that they can be about 3 feet. Most gantry cranes I have seen are at least 10 feet tall to give enough room to get the engine out of the vehicle. A roll around cherry picker style takes up a lot less room.

 

[Richard D]

That's true, you lose a lot of overhead when you figure your hoist, and more if you use a trolley.

 

[sberry]

You need it when you need it but its also a tool that can go a long time between uses. I use the cherry picker 50 times for every hoist pik.

 

[plow]

How did you get the tubing to slide freely inside of each other? Is the square tube seamless?

 

[icedoc]

How did you get the tubing to slide freely inside of each other? Is the square tube seamless?

Not sure if this was directed at me, but I'll assume it was.

The outer tube is actually two pieces of angle iron that I seamed together to form a box. I cannot remember the actual dimensions off the top of my head, but the angle was over-sized and then milled down to achieve a nice corner for welding. I used the upright (inner tube) with shims to hold the box to the correct size before tacking the seam.

My original plan was to broach the weld seam of some square tubing, but I could not source the size I needed and did NOT want a sloppy fit.

Overall I'm very pleased with the result. Over the 3ft telescoping span, there is almost no play between the tubes, yet it raises and lowers easily.

Here is the box as I was getting going with the welding:

 

[bullfrog123]

For what it's worth......

I got the HF crane last yr and have been very surprised with how its made. The telescoping height is a big bonus but.... I have 14' walls so height isn't an issue here. Rolls easily out of the way when not in use. As others have said.... they do get in the way when not in use but dam they are handy!!!

Keep an eye out for their sales. I got this for $550 total. They had a big sale on them and took my 20% coupon on top of the sale. Also the two ton trolly is nice to add.

 

[plow]

I've been lookin at that. However, I'm too stupid to buy it when I could build it for twice as much.

 

[2oolhound]

I've used the ones from princess auto which would be similar to HF. They bolt together fairly quickly, are adjustable for different heights and are on wheels so if you don't get your load swinging too much you can move stuff around with them once it's lifted. The manuals are downloadable so you can get a good idea of the design components to build your own. Thing is they come on sale a couple times a year so it's hard to compete on cost unless your material is free.

 

[brownbagg]

pipe is fine, if thick wall, I made a t pee style, been using it since 93 no problem

 

[bluebolt]

I have the Harbor Freight and love it. When I bought it the 20% coupon worked on it too! I love the easily adjustable height lower it to get into my shop with a 10 foot tall door then raise it up to full height or changing engines in trucks. I replaces critical bolts with grade 8 when I put it together some of that stuff was terrible. Saw a couple of crappy welds but they were in non-critical areas. I later updated it to a larger section cross beam that was wider as well the old one would not allow it to go over a dual axle trailer or a dually truck.