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A half-baked idea: 'Pan Lighting'

Jack Olsen

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I have a workbench at the front of my garage. The only thing that's bugged me about having it there is that I can't suspend any lights over it because the garage door needs to open and close.

One other thing about me? I'm frugal. So even if I could suspend lights over the bench, I didn't want to pay a lot for them.

After about 18 days in a row of solid work, I got a little bit of time off today, and I came up with a solution. Whether it's a good solution is open to debate. But I came up with something that met my two design criteria: I wanted suspended lights over the workbench, and I wanted them to be cheap.

First I made a bar to hold a pair of lights. It would extend out from the wall, so the garage door could go above it. I had steel left over from my fence that I welded together.

I added a support to a base plate to reduce sag, and actually tested the weight of the two lamps on the bar to pre-stress it so that when it bent under their weight, it would end up level.

01pan.jpg


Here are both brackets. I made a short one for a single lamp on the other side of the garage opening, since I'd been relying on a $5 trouble lamp over there for light.

02both.jpg


Here's the short support with a coat of primer, then paint, then the lamp wire threaded through it. Very simple.

03threading.jpg


Then the frugal part. This is an $8.99 aluminum cake pan. It's 14" in diameter and 3" deep. I cut a hole in the center.

04pan.jpg


I painted a lamp socket gray and used a circline (O-shaped) fluorescent bulb that comes with a socket adapter in the middle of the ring.

05hanging.jpg


Here's a quick shot of my test run. There's one lamp on the left and two on the right. The garage isn't cleaned up yet, but my wife wanted to see a movie this afternoon, so I had to wrap things up after dinner.

06garage.jpg
 
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kburns

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One small issue that might not matter in your location. Around here, if a building is used commercially, the fire regulations do not allow suspending an electrical fixture using the supply wire as the support. And if the fixture is hard-wired, it would not pass building codes whether its a private or commercial building.
 

classic gary

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albuquerque, north mexico
the only thing better would have been to mount one hanger all the way across and put a "hot track" on it, then you could have moved the lights where-ever you needed them. but then the frigality goes away, so, never mind !! (and i would not of thought of that if i hadn't seen your idea. :) )
 
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Jpfreak33

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Brunswick Hills, OH
Awesome Idea!! What about $15 invested in each with the socket and bulbs? Very creative, might have to do something similar when I'm moved in to the new place
 

thdewey

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Gastonia, NC
Awesome, Awesome, Awesome!!!
Great job! Looks great and at a low cost.

Here are my cheap workbench lights. I used some free highbay shades on standard 120v fixtures with a dimmer.

100_2268.JPG


100_2246.JPG
 
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Jack Olsen

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Thanks, guys.

07pole.jpg


This is a picture that shows the long bar as it's currently installed. You can see the old trouble light I had up and also that I haven't actually wired the power cords in to the switched line, yet. I need to move the bar down about half an inch because I learned that while the assembly I put in is level, the garage door itself is not, so the door brushes the tip of the bar when it opens or closes.

One small issue that might not matter in your location. Around here, if a building is used commercially, the fire regulations do not allow suspending an electrical fixture using the supply wire as the support. And if the fixture is hard-wired, it would not pass building codes whether its a private or commercial building.
I thought about using a length of cable to suspend them -- and still might. They're very light. But I'm also going to sleeve the power cord where it contacts the tube.

the only thing better would have been to mount one hanger all the way across and put a "hot track" on it, then you could have moved the lights where-ever you needed them. but then the frigality goes away, so, never mind !! (and i would not of thought of that if i hadn't seen your idea. :) )
I thought about one bar (or a cable) all the way across. But I want as much clearance where cars pull in and out. I actually considered hinging the base on the long one so that I could undo one screw and have the whole thing swing out of the way if I needed the overhead space. But that was getting complicated. I can remove the fasteners where it connects to the wall and pull the whole thing out if I need to move something big into the garage.

Awesome Idea!! What about $15 invested in each with the socket and bulbs? Very creative, might have to do something similar when I'm moved in to the new place
$9 for the pan. $1.91 each for the sockets. The bulbs were $7.90, but they're the long-life type. I could have gone with a much less expensive bulb, but like the look of the O-shaped ones.

08bulb.jpg


Forget the lights. Tell us about the RS.
The links in my signature will fill you in on that (honestly, they'll over-fill you). It's a well-loved, often-photographed, and often-raced car.

Is this U.L?

:)
My father worked for U.L. And his degree is in fire safety engineering. If I was going to show him the garage, I'd have to be prepared for some suggestions. Still, this is basically just a light bulb on a wire. If I find that they're getting knocked around, I'll add some support cable. And as I mentioned above, I'm going to get some grommets so there's no friction where the cord meets the steel. I honestly don't see a particularly big fire or electrocution risk. But better safe than sorry.

Speaking of which, I'm also currently putting in a switchable smoke alarm (it's got to switch off when I'm welding), plus two heat-sensing alarms, and three new (and bigger) Amerex extinguishers.
 
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Jack Olsen

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Hey Jack where did u get the sockets from looked all over can't find at my local Lowes Thanks Randy
I got them online from a place called LightBulbEmporium.com

Product ID: 80-1072
Product Description: 660W-250V Short Keyless Phenolic 1/8IP Cap Medium Base Socket w/Uno Thread and Ring
Product Manufacturer: Satco
Quantity: 4 Unit(s)
Price: $1.91/Unit


I also noticed that my local big box place didn't have them. I wonder if they ran into liability issues at some point?
 
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ZRX61

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This is going to be the light over the garage mandoor. As you can see it's quite a size & is enamelled steel. WWII vintage from an old HUGE hangar. Going to have to fab up a fairly stout bracket etc to hold it.... 13.5 in deep x 23.5 in wide....

Garage-Light004.jpg


Garage-Light005.jpg


Garage-Light006.jpg
 

carolinaguy681

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Thanks Jack did u get the bulbs from the same place if so what number are the ones u got. I was just going to order everything at the same time being shipping rate is a flat 7.99. Thanks
 

Dan in Pasadena

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ZRX, That thing is a big mofo! We usually see those painted a deep forest green on the outside, is that your plan for this one? Since it's so big, how far above the man door will it be mounted and what are you planning on using for the bulb? 500w and you could probably "beam someone up" ha...ha...
 
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Jack Olsen

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Thanks Jack did u get the bulbs from the same place if so what number are the ones u got. I was just going to order everything at the same time being shipping rate is a flat 7.99. Thanks
Same place.

Product ID: S6259
Product Name: EF/FC8/T9/WW
Product Description: 22W 120V Circline Style Medium Base 3000K Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL)
Product Manufacturer: Satco
Quantity: 4 Unit(s)
Price: $7.90/Unit

Is the object on the dolly a shear or a pressbrake?
Both. It's a second-hand Harbor Freight combo. I haven't used it, yet. But I've got a project in mind for it.
 

ZRX61

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ZRX, That thing is a big mofo! We usually see those painted a deep forest green on the outside, is that your plan for this one? Since it's so big, how far above the man door will it be mounted and what are you planning on using for the bulb? 500w and you could probably "beam someone up" ha...ha...


The original bulbs for that thing are bigger than footballs... I'll mount it so the bottom is just above the top of the doorframe.. that will save me building a small canopy to keep the rain off while unlocking the door :)
 

kbs2244

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When I was young and very bucks down the lights I was working under were just the white ceramic fixtures with 100 watt bulbs in them.

I took some of the thin, one time use, aluminum pie pans and slit an “X” in the center.
I then pushed the neck of the bulbs through the “X”, bended the points over flat so the pans hung on the ball part of the bulb, and screwed them in.

It helped a lot and cost less than $2.00
 

Costner

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FYI - check your local dollar stores for similar cake pans. I picked up a pan very similar (2" depth rather than 3") for $1 when I was building my Ghostbusters replica proton pack.

Dollar stores can be great for those types of things.
 

texasguy

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North Texas
I have been looking for options for some task lighting (over benches) in my new shop. I prefer a "vintage" style light and I will need about a dz. I have been pricing originals and repros and both are a bit more than I want to spend so I have been considering other options - several of which others have presented above. This thread has given me inspiration - thanks to all.


thdewey - great idea and the result is excellent - I have found a few sources for these but they were still working lights and in the $75ish range - more than I wanted to spend when I would rather overspend on other shop items.

zrx61 - excellent find - looking forward to pics when you get it installed.

jack - I think I will go with your cake pan idea. Creative, cost-effective but mostly I have always been a big fan of baked goods. I may add a few twists - I like the SS look on the exterior but may consider gloss white paint (high temp) on the inside in an attempt to resemble porcelain - likewise I may look at adding some baby moons on top to better resemble vintage vs. your more modern look. Think Betty Crocker vs. Rachel Ray.

The following pic is similar to what I am attempting to duplicate, so if anyone has other thoughts, feel free to pile on - I am always open to ideas, constructive criticism and monetary or material donations to my shop project(s).

lights.jpg
 
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nickleone

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Sep 29, 2007
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There are 3 or 4 Habitat stores with in 25 miles of Denver CO.
I have purchased track lighting supplies for as little as $5 for a fixture.
I am going to search for some track to extend across the garage door runners and hang
some fixtures there.
I also buy ajustable arm lights (the ones with the springs and folding arms) for $2 to $4 at thrift stores with or without the mounting bracket. Drill a hole in the workbench or into a stud in the wall and stick the end in it for ajustable lighting.

Nick
 

czr12x

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WI/IL stateline
The following pic is similar to what I am attempting to duplicate, so if anyone has other thoughts, feel free to pile on - I am always open to ideas, constructive criticism and monetary or material donations to my shop project(s).

lights.jpg

has anyone built this type of lighting for outside use? above a garage door etc?
I really like the example that texasguy has pictured.
 

ckucia

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West Virginia
I know this an old thread, but I've been considering something similar.

If you look around for clamp lights, there are 8 1/2 diameter versions for around $6-7 and 10 1/2 diameter versions (also called "brood lights") for less than $15 if you shop around.

I plan on cutting off most of the clamp assembly and welding the bracket to the top of the strut. That leaves the ball joint making the lights adjustable and making it possible to mount them aside the strut rather than hangning down for more clearance below.

When you factor in the cost of the pans and sockets, I find these clamp lights to be a better value, and the shade is deep enough to protect the bulb.

Thinking of painting the inside white and the outside green (or some other color) to give them a retro feel.

0-0-0.jpg
 
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Jack Olsen

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ckucia, I think that's a great idea. I use smaller trouble lights like that all over my shop (pointed at the ceiling), and I've never had a problem with one. For my purposes, the weight of the pans was helpful, since mine are pendant style.

Instead of welding, you could also just get a piece of plate steel with a hole in it that fits over the clamp and use a screw to hold the thing in place. But that depends on what you're attaching it to.
 

crewchief888

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NW indiana
great idea !!


got me wonderin' now, i think i have a couple of those type of sockets laying around somewhere...:headscrat



:beer:
 
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