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A Little Help Identifying an Early Black and Decker Drill Please

Brazen Bull

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Apr 3, 2024
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I bought two early B&D drills on ebay from two different buyers.
I always wanted one of these early "hexagonal era" of B&D drill. But why have one when you can have two?

The first one with the chuck key on the chain, im 99% sure it is the "Light-Duty" model, but I GUESS that Black and Decker might have dropped that naming at that plant at that time? It has the slim looking gearbox and the keyed chuck.
Light duty my ***. And what is with saying the two models up have ball bearings, I saw a tear down of this cheapie "light-Duty" model on Youtube,
getting restored, and it DID have ball thrust bearings in there.

I've seen other drills of this model with brass labels with a red background. I can see my light-duty one has a brass label with a black background.
This model was $500 in 2025 money and the Heavy-Duty mother was $800 in 2025 money!

What im looking at is the red one:

Because the label plate is smashed off, I have to be a detective.
I have been reading the old catalogs and glaring at modern photos people took of theirs, and I'm confused about a few things.
And in a few other pictures I see online, curiously I see other drills of this lineup with removed labels.
It is a brass plate pounded on with rivets.


-On the handle, it is thicker and beefier up at the top AND thick at the bottom. I found NOTHING anywhere to explain this.
In the 1927 catalog all three levels of drill have a thin part at the top and bottom of the handle.
-Why is it all cherry red? It looks like it was intentionally painted all over and naturally flaked off here and there over the years.
I have never heard B&D doing that.
Could a factory that had these in numbers paint them or ordered them custom painted for them?
Anyways I'm calling this one Big Red.

I love the key-less chuck and I think it is cool that you could order (as an option) the drill with a grounded cord, in 1927.
Most of these types, i've never seen any of them with a grounded cord. I guess most workin' Joes didn't think they needed them.
But I like that the professionals at B&D knew better in 1927.

Don't cry gentlemen, i'm just going to clean them up (not polish to a mirror finish!) wash the gears and bearings, re-grease and oil everything, possibly new brushes; and use these tools.
 

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Brazen Bull

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Another example of one of these drills with a smashed off brass plate
 

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Brazen Bull

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Here is the primary catalog im reading from and drooling on.
Tried to upload the PDF but its too big for the sites servers britches.

Looking at the cutaway picture on page 5, other than a sharp decline in quality, I don't see any REL difference between
then and today's BRUSHED drills on the inside. The fan blade would obviously be plastic. But its still just steel gears, and typical enamel coated wire in a universal motor.
Check out how many heart achingly modern stuffs are in this catalog. On page ten those screw bits are on the shelf of any hardware store today. Unfortunately made in china.
 

Mintgrun

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I suspect the red paint was applied by the user, as opposed to the factory.

You might enjoy this thread.

 

four.cycle

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@Brazen Bull --

You are going to want to check out the thread that @Mintgrun cited in the post just above.

Sounds like you've already discovered Vintage Machinery.org:

Black / Black & Decker Mfg. Co., Towson, MD / acquired by Stanley 2010 / http://vintagemachinery.org/mfgIndex/detail.aspx?id=101 /

International Tool Catalog Library is your friend

All of the early advertisements I have been able to find are in that "Antique Drill" thread @Mintgrun linked to.

Those things are beasts. Hope you have strong wrist muscles!
 
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Brazen Bull

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I still don't know WHY the handle is beefier on my model, and why I can't find any other example "out there" in my google searches.
 
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Brazen Bull

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I finally got Big Red in the mail dudes! As described the switch stays ON. I took it apart, nothing seemed broken. Oiled the mechanism because oil fixes anything right? Didn't help one bit. I Looked at a restore and tear down of a 1917 Black and Decker 1/4" drill and compared the trigger mechanism as they were identical. Mine wasn't working because the star sprocket wasn't engaging with the pawl that pushes into it when you press the trigger. So comparing mine with a screenshot of the other guys drill that did trigger correctly, I saw that the star sprocket was out of step. I held the square block in some adjustable wrench, and CAREFULLY twisted the star until the bottom point of the star was slightly past six-o-clock. Put it all back together, drop of oil and the trigger works perfectly.

Put on a new grounded cable. One day I will restore this, really restore it and buy a fancy antique replica cord from an antique radio supply store. I just got her on her feet still in her work clothes.

Oiled and worked the chuck to get it back awake. Oiled the backend bearing. I'm not seeing any ball bearings beyond the thrust bearings in the gearbox.

It's old, its worn out. The front end (bronze?) bushing has a lot of slop in it. Commutator is OK but it has some wear down in it.
I wire wheeled the chuck and brished it all over with a wire brush. Sprayed and wiped it. Soaked the chuck in more electric motor oil.

By the way, it is a Jacob's Portomatic 5/16" No. 312 keyless chuck. NOT an Ettco keyless chuck.

I searched and searched and I found THIS.
The only thing I found that matched my model with the beefier handle.
Mines does have international four language return to service instructions.
 

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Brazen Bull

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Well the black and Decker catalog DID say it could be ordered in 220v flavor. But it DOES have a four language instruction plate for service return.
 
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Brazen Bull

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Tomorrow im going to test it, monitor its current draw on 110-120v with my kilawatt meter and if it is drawing very low current, than I am open to the possibility that it might be a 220v model. But why did it come with a 110v plug?
And im going to use my Fluke multimeter and check the resistance of this drill VS my 1927 model I KNOW is 110v.
 
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Brazen Bull

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Stress tested Big Red today with a 1" spade bit into pine and very old hard oak. The power draw was similar.
She loved it.
Monitored the power usage. -/+ 1.15A -/+ 135W just free running with no load.
With a 1" spade bit, it was between -/+ 2.0 and 3.5A
-/+ 200-300W. No smoke, no complaints, nothing got even above warm.
But I seriously doubt it was ever designed for a 1" spade bit into hardwood or soft!

The M52093 is the other 1920's Black and Decker drill.
 

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